Hey DeKay, you're alive! I have some CD's for you...
Back to line conditioning, Match, if you ask the wrong question you are more than likely to get answers like the above ones. Read and learn--there is no single one conditioner that will solve your problems.
I think a dedicated line is more important than a filter, if I had to choose one or the other. A dedicated line with a homemade parallel power strip using LN2 cryoed receptacles will give extremely good results, related both to noise and power delivery. I have tried a hospital grade receptacle, an audiophile grade power cord and a PS Audio Juice Bar on a cheap Phillips DVD and an old NAD 7125 receiver and the improvements have been substantial. The same with my Essence A/V Pro power strip w/ integrated power cord. All that was used to help was a little 1.0 amp isolation transformer for the DVD player. This test was done in a noisy apt. building.
I have the following:
(A) Seven smaller isolation transformers ( both toroidal & C-core ) ranging in size from a PowerVar 1.0 to a 1.2 KW ONEAC--plus a 3000W, 220V in/110V out ONEAC CB-2338 (95 lbs).
(B) Three power strips: Radio Shack surge protector/filter ($29.95), PS Audio Juice Bar ($199), Essence A/V Pro w/ integrated power cord ($499). The last two strip's outlets are wired in parallel.
(C) Highwire Wirewrap tuning device ($25)
(D) Tice A/V Solo ($440)
(E) Clear Image T4 by AudioPrism ($2,400)
(F) Power cords: seven Absolute Power Cords, two 8' Tice PC3's, one 10' Tice PC3 Extension cord. One Absolute and one Tice PC3 have been LN2 cryoed at Jena Labs.
(G) Outlets: three PS Audio Power Ports ($49.95 ea), one 20 amp ACME silver plated, LN2 cryoed ($45).
(H) Bybee filters soldered to the drivers in my Modwright Swans M1 (four filters total).
As you can see, I'm well stocked on goodies...and have played around with all of them. I would start with a little isolation transformer for my digital and take it from there...
Back to line conditioning, Match, if you ask the wrong question you are more than likely to get answers like the above ones. Read and learn--there is no single one conditioner that will solve your problems.
I think a dedicated line is more important than a filter, if I had to choose one or the other. A dedicated line with a homemade parallel power strip using LN2 cryoed receptacles will give extremely good results, related both to noise and power delivery. I have tried a hospital grade receptacle, an audiophile grade power cord and a PS Audio Juice Bar on a cheap Phillips DVD and an old NAD 7125 receiver and the improvements have been substantial. The same with my Essence A/V Pro power strip w/ integrated power cord. All that was used to help was a little 1.0 amp isolation transformer for the DVD player. This test was done in a noisy apt. building.
I have the following:
(A) Seven smaller isolation transformers ( both toroidal & C-core ) ranging in size from a PowerVar 1.0 to a 1.2 KW ONEAC--plus a 3000W, 220V in/110V out ONEAC CB-2338 (95 lbs).
(B) Three power strips: Radio Shack surge protector/filter ($29.95), PS Audio Juice Bar ($199), Essence A/V Pro w/ integrated power cord ($499). The last two strip's outlets are wired in parallel.
(C) Highwire Wirewrap tuning device ($25)
(D) Tice A/V Solo ($440)
(E) Clear Image T4 by AudioPrism ($2,400)
(F) Power cords: seven Absolute Power Cords, two 8' Tice PC3's, one 10' Tice PC3 Extension cord. One Absolute and one Tice PC3 have been LN2 cryoed at Jena Labs.
(G) Outlets: three PS Audio Power Ports ($49.95 ea), one 20 amp ACME silver plated, LN2 cryoed ($45).
(H) Bybee filters soldered to the drivers in my Modwright Swans M1 (four filters total).
As you can see, I'm well stocked on goodies...and have played around with all of them. I would start with a little isolation transformer for my digital and take it from there...