POP sound when turning off TT


Equip:
TT: Rega Planar 6
Phono Preamp: Lehmann Audio Black Box SE
Integrated Amp: Cambridge Audio CAX81
Speakers: Monitor Audio Silver 300

I just swapped out the phono preamp with the Schitt Mani that I had.  I immediately noticed the humming/buzzing sound was gone when absent any source.  Probably a grounding issue.

However, now when I go to power off the Rega (it comes with a separate PSU), I get a loud POP out of the speakers.  Keep in mind the phono preamp is still on.

When I had the Schiit, albeit a much less quality preamp, I never got the pop. 

What can/should I do?  Ground the phono preamp to the CAX81?

bound4h

@bound4h

It sounds like to me that the Rega Planar 6 has a linear power supply (with a transformer), and when it is switched off, it’s emitting a spike into the power line, which is being picked up by CAX81. The Schitt Mani may have used a switching power supply, which didn't emit the spike. Do you have any kind of power conditioning gear? If so, I would put the Rega power supply on it, and see if this helps cure the problem. You could also simply leave the Rega power supply powered up all of the time, as it probably consumes about a dollar of electricity (or less) per month, or, turn off the CAX81 amp first, before turning off the Rega power. If you’d like to take it a step further, I’ve had great success in using Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra’s on devices that were emitting spikes into my house AC wiring. I would place the Tripp Lite on your Rega power supply.

Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra

I don't have any kind of conditioning gear currently.  Would this work?

 

  

 

@bound4h

Would this work?

I don’t know, but it probably doesn’t have the filtering that the Isobar Ultra has. The Line Conditioner is probably overkill for what you’re experiencing, and since it has a rather large transformer in it, you may be introducing more problems (like EMI) into the scenario, compared to what you’re experiencing now. If the Isobar Ultra doesn’t fix your problem, it’s still a fantastic surge protector for your audio gear.

It’s also possible that there is some arcing taking place on the Rega power supply switch, and the arcing of this switch is reaching into audio frequency territory, which is broadcasting this signal as RFI. It’s possible the Schitt Mani was able to previously reject this noise, but the Lehmann Audio Black Box SE can’t.

My best suggestion is to try the very affordable Tripp Lite Isobar Ultra. It has eliminated so many pops and clicks (from home inductive appliances) that I was experiencing before, that I was never able to eliminate.

When I have the mani phono preamp? It does exactly what you describe, that time it’s connected to my integrated viva amp.On my third system connected to Art audio preamp, it so quiet. I can’t explain why?.

Sound like the snubber capacitor across the table’s motor power switch has either failed or is undersized. 

@testpilot 

Sounds like the snubber capacitor across the table’s motor power switch has either failed or is undersized. 

...if Rega even designed one to be installed in their Planar 6 power supplies.

Sound like the snubber capacitor across the table’s motor power switch has either failed or is undersized.

@bound4h, @testpilot called it on this one. There is supposed to be a bypass capacitor across the power switch contacts. It is there to prevent damage to the contacts when the switch is operated, as it eliminates arcing. When the switch arcs you hear the pop. Either the capacitor has failed or it was never installed. Once its in place this problem will be gone. The value is typically 0.01uf rated at 1000Volts.

I had the same problem with my VPI HW-19. Many others had the same problem. If you don’t want to change the capacitor just switch to another source when you turn the table off. I got so used to doing it that way it became second nature when using the table!

The snubber cap might be a 50 cent part that some turntable manufacturers feel isn't needed, or they're possibly passing on a design engineer's recommendation to include it in production.

Amplifier Is last on and first off. Do this and you won’t hear the pop from the TT. :)

@ibmjunkman yes unfortunately you have to turn off the psu in order to stop the rotation.  
 

@testpilot are you insinuating that something internally has failed, or that the failure is inherent to the design and I will need to solve for it with other methods (aftermarket addon, like conditioner, shut down sequence, etc).  Just want to be sure I don’t have a warranty claim that I should file.   

Clearly a problem in the Rega PSU.  Likely there is a poor contact in the on-off switch or simply the noise of switching it is being picked up as an RF signal by the cartridge and amplified.  What @testpilot said.

Solutions:

1.   Get the PSU tested and serviced by a Rega agent.

2.   Try moving the PSU further away from the TT if you can.  Indeed, you can test my explanation by moving the PSU to and from the cartridge.  When nearer, the sound will be louder.

3.   Try shielding the PSU by putting it in a metal box.

@ibmjunkman   "Not familiar with the TT. You have to power it off to change a record?"   If it is wished for the TT to be stationary when a record is changed then, yes, all TTs have to be powered off.  At 33 rpm (but not 45) I change records without powering the TT off.  Nothing has ever come to any harm.

So my lowly Pioneer PL-630 is more technologically advanced than all these high end TT in that I can stop rotation by moving the arm to the rest point without pushing the on-off button? Think I will stay in the Stone Age. 😊

are you insinuating that something internally has failed, or that the failure is inherent to the design and I will need to solve for it with other methods (aftermarket addon, like conditioner, shut down sequence, etc).  Just want to be sure I don’t have a warranty claim that I should file.

@bound4h In case its not obvious, if I were you I would contact Rega and ask about this very topic. If they seem to have no complaints in this regard, and if your machine is in warranty, then you do have a claim. But it might be cheaper to have a local technician replace the capacitor. They are not expensive!!