Peachtree GaN 1 Beta

@yyzsantabarbara user the high level inputs on that sub 

@donnylovely Yes, I think you mentioned it previously on this thread. I did some research on this and now I forgot what the heck I learned. I will re-visit that later today.

I did get in a second set of Audience AU24 SX speaker cables today, though it is very short (2 feet). I now have 2 sets of speaker cables to try and integrate the sub. I think that is all I need to do that.

I am using some WyWire "Silver" speaker cables on the GAN1 + KEF LS50 Meta, at the moment. These were very boomy with my AHB2 but not so with the GAN1. Likely needs more break in to get that bad boomy sound. My Audience AU24 SX cables and Audience FrontRow (only for AHB2) are not boomy at all with the AHB2.

@yyzsantabarbara you can just use cheap speaker cable for the sub that you can pick up at a hardware store. I wouldn't spend a lot on that.

The amp has opened up a lot and now the bass is comparable to my AHB2. That is using the WyWire speaker cables that are exaggerating the bass. The GAN1 is now doing the same thing (that is good).

I still think the GAN1 is still a little more laid back over my AHB2 system on my KEF LS50. A lot of people may prefer that sound. If I did not have my AHB2 system, that I love, I could see myself living with the GAN1 as the system in my office. However, now that I have 2 great tuners, and that is a huge part of my listening routine, I will not use the GAN1 in my office with the LS50 Meta. It will go with my RAAL SR1a headphones. I am going to be listening to this amp like that going forward.

I have not listened at low volume or with a variety of music, I will do that with my SR1a headphones, which are an even better speaker than the LS50 Meta and see how it compares to the 9 or 10 other SR1a 2-channel amps I previously had in the house.

I will put it back with the LS50 after I have a few 100 hours on it.

What is the chain when you use the Benchmark?  Benchmark DAC3?, Benchmark pre?, Benchmark amp? with two analog cables?.....total cost? compared to $1400 stock GaN 1?  What power cords, footers and line conditioning are you using?  Do you have any damped weight on the Gan1?  Will be nice to hear what you say when it is fully burned in and also after you get it modded (rubbing my hands together in anticipation....he he).

You guys really need to use the Giandel 5000 watt inverter run on LifePo4 batteries.....will blow your mind.....so pure and open.

It is 3AM no and I got kicked off my ROON server. I force the server to shutdown automatically so that I have to go to sleep. I had a great listen with the SR1a headphones. My intuition about synergy of the GAN1 + SR1a was correct.

Let me first answer @ricevs question

• Benchmark LA4 preamp ($2500)
• Benchmark AHB2 monos ($6400)
• Audience FrontRow with SpeakON terminated speaker cable ($4K)
• Musetec 005 DAC for KEF LS50 ($3200)
• Benchmark DAC3B (hardly ever for KEF LS50, $1600)
• Audience AU24SE XLR and RCA (maybe $3000)
• Benchmark 15-foot XLR between preamp and amp ($200)
• Magnum Dynalab MD108T tuner ($8000)
• Accuphase T-101 tuner ($1300 modded)
• Sonore OpticalRendu | EtherRegen as an FMC | SystemOptics parts ($3000 approx)
• RAAL SR1a amp interface box ($700)

vs

• Peachtree GAN1 ($1400)
• Audience AU24SX speaker cable (2 foot used $500)
• Sonore streaming gear ($4000) Additional cost for Sonore UltraDigital, and SPDIFcable
• RAAL SR1a amp interface box ($700)

I know a lot about gear for the SR1a earphones. The earphones are magic, and I spent a lot of time in the past 2 years figuring out the proper 2-channel amp to sound the best with the uber detail and hot treble of the SR1a. I had 9 to 10 amps go through the house. The best combo was the following:

• CODA 07x preamp ($7200)
• Musetec 005 DAC ($3200)
• KRELL DUO 175XD ($11000)
• plus all the other cables and streaming pieces listed above

This setup was the very best of all the combos I tried. I spent that $11K for an amp just for the SR1a. The KRELL was incredible with the SR1a, a warm and buttery smooth sounding amp.

However, when the RAAL VM-1a headphone amp came out it blew all of that expensive gear out of the water, and I sold almost all my gear except the Musetec 005 DAC and the Benchmark pre and amp. I rated the VM-1a a 10/10 in sound quality and the KRELL + CODA combo 8/10. I thought it was 10/10 prior to me hearing the VM-1a.

The SR1a is hot on top and can get fatiguing, such as with the LSA Voyager 350 GAN. The only 2 amps that were really good with the SR1a were the CODA #8, Parasound A21+, and the KRELL 175XD. Everything else was too fatiguing.

So, this was an important factor in my observation of the GAN1. When I listened earlier with the LS50 Meta, I thought it was a laid-back sound. I started to think maybe it was rolled off on the top end (that is with the current break-in). That was not the best sonic signature for my KEF LS50 Meta but for the SR1a it had great promise.

Listening to the SR1a and GAN1 was incredible. It tamed the hot SR1a and the sound was as good as the KRELL + CODA setup. That is some $30K in gear. However, it was not close to the VM-1a, but nothing is so that is not a big deal.

The other day I was listening to the Pretenders "Brass in Pocket" and heard some guitar track that I never heard before with the tube VM-1a amp and my Benchmark DAC3B. With the GAN1 I was not able to hear this. I also listened to a lot of 70’s music tonight, at first, music that could be fatiguing (and I played it loud). Judas Priest, Zeppelin, April Wine, Rush, AC/DC. No fatigue at all. Then some Bee Gees, Al Green, Michael Kiwanuka to hear some nice vocals, these were also non-fatiguing and a real fun listen. So as of now I love this amp with the SR1a. A home run in every respect.

I actually preferred the leaner sound of the GAN1 over the lusher sound of the KRELL and CODA pairing on the SR1a. That is just my personal preference. I would rate the GAN1 as an 8.5/10 with the SR1a. That is pretty incredible in my eyes to be the best 2-channel amp for my SR1a.

My opinion is that the top end is definitely rolled off. I have too much experience with the SR1a to know how the sonic signature is interacting with the SR1a. I also get fatigued easily with bad sound. The fact that I did not with the GAN1 make me believe it is rolled off.

I have a DSP Convolution filter specifically made for the SR1a. It was coincidently created by Mitch Barnett, the guy who also did some DSP work for my 2-channel. The SR1a filter is available for anyone to buy. I do not use the DSP for the SR1a or my 2-channel anymore. The SR1a Convolution filter tames the top end of the SR1a with certain amps. I would never use it with the KRELL or CODA but with the Benchmark AHB2 it was needed (until recently but that is another story). The Convolution filter seemed to do the same thing that the GAN1 amp is doing (that laid-back sound).

A stock GaN1 amp is really good.....but there are so many ways to make it better:

1. Eliminate the junk AC/Fuse connector and use a Furutech inlet......The better inlet and removal off the fuse will sound much better. You don’t need two fuses: one on the power supply and one on the outside of the amp....one bad fuse is bad enough....two is worse.

2. Changing the AC input wire to the power supply with seriously good sounding larger gauge wire......better sound again.

3. Changing the fuse on the power supply to an audiophle fuse for better sound again.

4. Change the output wire to better sounding wire and hardwire at both ends....(no push on connectors).

5. Change the output jacks to the better sounding WBT nextgens.....or even better to my plastic clamp goodies (you cannot use bananas with my plastic clamps...only spades and bare wire). Clampng using plastic hardware (all metals....even as a clamp...wreck the sound) is really the same as hardwiring. You are clamping the wire coming from the output wire from the amp board directly to your spade or bare wire on your speaker wire. I will be ordering the plastic parts soon and have the clamps available for people to use on any amp and/or speakers. The plastic wing nutted clamps will be mounted on painted wood (either as a single pair for mono use....or two sets for stereo use). This is the worlds best connector....better than silver binding posts or anything else you can think of........same sound as soldering the wires together.

6. Change the spdif input wire to way better sounding wire (hardwire at both ends....no connectors).

7. Try removing the "extra" inductor on the speaker wires.

8. Change and or modify the output filter caps on the amp board.

9 Damp certain parts.

10. Shield certain parts.

11. etc. to infinity.

So, if it is this good now.......OMG.......you are in for a treat.

Down the road, completely different power supplies can be tried...Even linear supplies......fun times ahead.

What about coupling caps? 

There are no normal coupling caps in a digital amp.....just the filter caps to ground on the output.  However, sometimes on an spdif input there will be a tiny .1uf coupling cap to block DC.......we will see if there is one in the GaN1.....if so, I will certainly upgrade it.

@ricevs If you want the amp, I can send it up to you. If you get back to me before 4PM I can send it today. However, I am going to stick with the SR1a for the GAN1 and not my 2-channel gear. I am going to setup the fibre steaming in my family room tonight and I am not going to move that stuff back up to the office to test 2-channel.

*************************************************

One thing I did not mention in my rambling post from 3AM was the 3 amps that worked well with the SR1, the CODA #8, Parasound A21+, and KRELL DUO 175XD, all had the benefit for being connected to the CODA 07x preamp. This preamp is definitely warm and considered tube-like. I also had the smooth Musetec 005 in that chain. So that setup was geared towards warmth and smoothness. The GAN1 is sort of naked compared to the other amps.

Sure, send me the amp.  I am just now ordering an IFI Zenstream and will mostly be listening to files through a usb stick plugged into the back of the IFI.....Especially want to hear my 24/192 download of Tea for the Tillerman that was transferred from the master tape using the $30K ADC from MSB.......

Looks like LHY audio has an 18v lps with enough juice, 8.8A, to power the gan 1, I think. Can you just hook up + to + and - to - and just ground it to the case? 

NO..NO.....You need a PLUS and MINUS 32 Volt 400+ Watt power supply for the module. Most switching and linear supplies only have plus voltage. Making your own linear supply would be easier than trying to find an off the shelf supply.......but maybe in your searches you will find a plus and minus 32V supply....happy hunting. It has to be rated at least 400 watts.....the more the better.

Thanks for the info. I think i'll let someone else try it first. Don't want to break my amp

My opinion is that the top end is definitely rolled off.

That's what happens with open loop class d amps...

Probably part of the reason of why it sounds so good.

Maybe why some think so, but certainly not a sign of good design. Lots of people liked the old 1980's open loop Tripath class d amps too. And lots didn't.

@ricevs Ric, the amp is on the way for Wednesday delivery. I also sent you my RAAL SR1a earphone and RAAL adapter box for you to hear. I also have the second-best headphone cable for the earphone in the box.

I do not connect speakers (option available) to the adapter box just the earphones. I hope you enjoy it; at minimum you hear something totally different. That is 2-channel sound without room acoustics to worry about.

I have been informed that the rolled of nature of the GAN1 that I described is something that another owner heard but it went away after more hours. 

another owner heard but it went away after more hours. 

It's called acclimation.

Well, my GAN1 is now gone for 1 or 2 months while Ric does his thing. I won’t be acclimated to it when I get it back. It won’t be a apples-to-apples comparison because I know it will be better than stock from the mods. However, the rolled off quality maybe still be there if it does not disappear after more burn-in. Ric could also address that with his mods.

@ricevs You should post your thoughts on the sound and the changes you hear with your mods to have a timeline or history.

I am not sure what to want with these mods because I loved the way it sounded on my SR1a last night. Whatever, the case it will be a fun exercise to see the outcome.

I know it will be better than stock from the mods.

That’s called confirmation bias. Confirmation bias is the tendency to search for, interpret, favor, and recall information in a way that confirms or supports one’s prior beliefs or values.

Can you name one thing he will do that has any hope of altering this amp’s performance in a way that can be proven to be an improvement? Can he? No. All you will get is a meaningless spiel about how everything changes the sound and you can’t measure any of it. That’s ok, your confirmation bias has already made up your mind- he could literally do nothing and you will swear it sounds better. Chaching....

However, the rolled off quality maybe still be there if it does not disappear after more burn-in. Ric could also address that with his mods.

Really? He’s going to redesign the circuit and add an output filter? Lol, it’s people like you who keep people like him in business. Enjoy your kool-aid.

@kuribo we are grateful to you scientists for steadily advancing all things in this world. Most of us don't have a clue what you can so easily dissect. The advancements you guys make are truly amazing.

I know there are shortcomings in everything but for us regular folk the sound quality and simplicity we get for less and less money spent is incredible.

thank you, dolfan

@kitsap2 

Science doesn't care about your opinion and I am not moved by your ad hominem attacks nor your arm chair psychology. If you, or anyone else, have anything germane to add to this discussion, by all means, feel free. Otherwise, your off topic, attack the messenger comments are simply just more noise.

@dolfan 
 

I know there are shortcomings in everything but for us regular folk the sound quality and simplicity we get for less and less money spent is incredible.

True, but there are much better products out there for the money than this poorly designed amp.

I am with @kuribo on this topic. I read the manifesto, which I later learned was written by @ricevs after I made my comment. I am not an EE, but I have been involved in professional speaker development and management of for closing on 2 decades. I am technical enough to have picked up more than a few things. It is not hard to see that was @ricevs is writing about is a laundry list of audio cliches. In our products, we are responsible from everything from the input, which is often digital today, to what comes out of the drivers. We know, in great detail, everything that affects the sound coming out of the speakers. None of the items on that list of modifications would even begin to be a consideration unless there was an identified fault to start. There is as much chance, probably more, of creating a new issue as there is of fixing an unidentified issue that probably does not even exist.

Let me give Ric a bit of support on these comments by saying that I had the brand-new stock LSA Voyager 350 GAN amp. It was pretty good as stock and I heard it for the first 200 hours with my Thiel CS3.7 (sold), KEF LS50 non-meta, and RAAL SR1a.

I was comparing it with the CODA #8 amp (sold) and the Benchmark AHB2 monos (or maybe stereo). The stock Voyager did not have as much power as the CODA #8 nor was it as clean sounding on top as the AHB2. It was sort of in the middle of both those 2 amps.

When I got the Voyager back from Ric about a month later, the clarity of the Voyager approached the AHB2 (that was shocking). No amp I have heard comes close to the AHB2 in terms of clarity with that beautiful smoothness, so this was a real surprise. Maybe the only other amp is the CODA #16 which I bought last week and not delivered yet. That clarity was one reason I got the #16, as was the more power compared to the AHB2. I want a lot of power for my Livingroom speaker. The Voyager and gear mentioned was in my office.

I sold the modded Voyager because it lacked power to match the CODA #8. I was also concerned about the modded Voyager not having a power switch (we agreed to remove it). My CODA 07x preamp (sold) also did not have a power switch and for safety and the extra power reasons I kept the CODA #8 over the modded Voyager.

My experience with the Voyager mods leads me to believe that the GAN1 will come back to me in a month or 2 sounding way better than stock. I do not have time to listen for total break-in this time of the GAN1 because I am going to be very busy for the next few months. I will let Ric figure that out.

@kuribo  Well, my comment was removed, but I'm glad you were able to read it.  Sorry (not really) about being off topic, but what I conveyed was the truth, like it or not.

The folks on this thread are talking about a piece of gear they have, or are going to have, or maybe even want.  I also have the GaN 1 and like it a lot.  But you have made it known throughout the last few pages of this thread what you think. And, for the most part, are ignored.  Why continue raining on other's parade when you don't agree with their enthusiasm, or beliefs.  It's rather confounding.

@kitsap2 

Like I said, science doesn't care about your opinions and neither do I.

People should go into a purchase with their eyes wide open. This amp is not what is being advertised, as I have explained. Some people appreciate an honest opinion, rather than hear only the self interested claims of someone looking to take your money by praying on ignorance and insecurity. There is too much fraud, deceit, and dishonesty in audio. Wake up.

@yyzsantabarbara 

Not that you would let science get in the way but be aware that nothing being done to mod your amp will make it perform better. You might have convinced yourself it is better, but like putting your cd's in the freezer improves the sound, or other such nonsense, it is all in your head.

Hi Folks!

Happy New Year first of all.

So far I really like the Gan 1. I have no preconceived notions but I did buy it based on the amp being directly controlled by the Node and hoped it would sound nice. There is also the relatively inexpensive price. It integrates perfectly with my Nvidia Shield Pro too. The simplicity of the setup and the sound quality it gives me I feel, and that is purely subjective, is really good. I love a simple set up and this is as simple as it gets yet does everything I want from it.

So far the 3 folks who have this amp in the thread like it. Time will tell if we just liked the kool aid.

Thanks for all the posts in this thread I enjoy reading everyone's opinion on things. I don't let them influence mine though.

Kindest regards, dolfan

I think it is at least 8 people on this thread that have gotten the amp and ALL love it.

When someone is posting who is righteous.....they have to have the last word/post. So, do not reply to these people as they will just keep FIGHTING and saying the same thing over and over.....and who wants to hear the same nonsense spoken by those that have no experience with this product (and refuse to listen or even... believe in listening).

Please ignore them.....they want drama....everytime you try to defend me or listening then they just keep firing back.......if you ignore them then there is no drama and no need for them to be here.....IGNORE THEM Please.

Have a wonderful NEW YEAR and may you all be blessed with LOVE, JOY, and Happiness.......

Yeah, just ignore science and reason and keep sending money.

Yeah last three years has taught everyone to just trust the science. LMAO!

I received my second GaN1. Hooked it up with my minidsp SHD and have a nice active config with my Camerton/Purifis.

I’ll end up tweaking this one also. Not for the potential performance gains, but just like having better conductors, more secure connections and cleaner signal paths.

As I mentioned in previous posts, I prefer this amp over the other GaN based and Class Ds that I have had (Peachtree GaN400, Class D Mini GaN 5, Hypex, nCore, Purifi).

Love the fact it is dead quiet, no speaker hiss, turn on/off noise. Sounds fantastic at both low and high volumes. A very enjoyable listening experience.

One thing I know is that using the word science does not make a statement scientific. Just as Tony the Tiger says, the voices in my head also say that the mods are gggGREAT!

I finished setting up my Fibre optical streaming in my Family room where I have a Gravity chair. My back health and musical enjoyment are going to me at the max when I get the GAN1 back. Love the simplicity of the amp, and I am making it a bit more complicated by going Fibre and ROON (though it was not too difficult to figure out).

Happy New Year to all.

@ricevs  I appreciate your timely comment/post.  This thread is full of very satisfied, friendly participants and owners of the GaN 1.  There, however, is one individual, who will go unnamed, that is very unhappy.  Your advice is gold.  I leveled the axe at it/him and for that, my post was deleted by the moderator.  I understand why, my fault.

And the one part of your post that really rings true is that "they" always have to have the last word.  Classic!

Happy New Year to all!

I have been following this thread with interest, especially as I have ordered a Gan1 and expect delivery any day.  I appreciate the criticisms and cautions (if not the tone of delivery).  I have a healthy respect for the "scientific" approach to audio equipment, meaning objective measurements and explanations of the physics involved.  It is helpful to avoid drinking anyone's Koolaid or succumbing to confirmation bias.  These are always risks.  However, for me the listening experience trumps all else.  The many positive comments from discerning Agon listeners - who actually have the Gan1 to hear - means quite a bit to me.  In any event I will shortly find out for myself.

Best wishes to everyone for the new year,  and please, respect and tolerance for each other.

@treepmeyer,  I'm looking forward to your thoughts on the GaN 1 after you've had some time with it.  As the president of Peachtree said, it's not for everybody (paraphrasing).  But it definitely fits my needs and desires and I couldn't be more satisfied.

Happy New Year and new gear, 2023!

 Why continue raining on other's parade when you don't agree with their enthusiasm, or beliefs.  It's rather confounding.

@kitsap2 FWIW, the manufacturer of the amp did get on this thread and confirmed something that @kuribo caught quite a bit of heat for here: the issue that a zero feedback class D amp will have frequency response that is load dependent. 

That issue does appear to be minor, but kuribo was not wrong.

WRT the issue of mods. I'm just using these two bits as examples: The output filter is a critical bit of engineering in any class D amplifier. It can have an enormous effect on the spurious noise generated by the amp- noise that can radiate into other components and can interfere with things like WiFi operation and digital circuits in general. Bypass caps in the circuit have a similar effect and are often chosen with care for their characteristics.

In a zero feedback amp these things can be quite critical because there is no feedback to offer any kind of correction.

When these things get changed out or removed, its guaranteed that the amp will need testing to know if it still meets important critical specs such as noise radiation thru the air or on the AC line. If this testing is not performed, if the mods are not done properly, don't be surprised if certain FM stations don't show up on your FM tuner because a buzzy sound has replaced them. So make sure that adequate testing has been performed when you have mods done. This testing should be done at the same level as if the amp were to be exported to the European Union. If it can surpass those marks it should be OK.

@atmasphere,  Appreciate your explanation.  I can't argue with that.  But none of the participants here were seeking "you-know-who's" advice.  That's all.  "You-know-who" felt it was necessary to "rain on the parade" regardless.  It became monotonous, and yet "he" didn't let up.

Anyway, I'm done, I've said what was on my mind and had my post deleted.  At the end of the day, it's the pure pleasure of our hobby that matters.  And that's all it is, a hobby.  Not life, or death.  Who gives a rats ass about trivial crap that doesn't mean a thing in the grand scheme in life.  We're here today, but maybe not tomorrow.  Enjoy what you have, who you have and live life to its fullest.

Again, Happy New Year.

I wasn't giving advice, I was stating facts. You and others chose to dispute and argue with those facts. If speaking the truth is "raining on your parade", maybe you need to get an umbrella.

Your post was deleted because it was abusive and off topic, as has been most of the response given here to those who have pointed out the lack of technical knowledge and blindness to science exhibited here by the kool-aid crowd. It is indeed a hobby, not a matter of life of death, so take your own advice and skip the personal attacks.

@kuribo  where are those measurements man? I see you’re still bothering everyone even though you still have no experience with this amp at all.

@ricevs to change out the wire can I use molex pins and just replace the pins in the connectors? Is there better way? Does anyone make copper pins or upgraded pins? 

@donnylovely 

I see you still haven't bothered to find them for yourself even though I told you where to look. Seek and ye shall find.

I don't have to eat excrement to know I don't like the taste.

@kuribo  that's because they are nonexistent. You were surprised by the measurements others posted. You know nothing about this amp.