Peachtree GaN 1 Beta


Before I start my post here is my current system for reference:

Auarlic Aries G1 --> Denafrips Terminator or SW1X DAC --> Audio GD HE1 XLR preamp or Sachs preamp --> various tube amps --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's w/ a pair of REL S510 subs. Cables and power conditioning commensurate with the rest of the system.

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As warmer months approach I have been looking for a cool running amp to replace my Line Magnetic LM-518 and other tube amps for a few months as they run pretty hot.

I've been interested in the GaN FET amps and just purchased a used LSA Voyager 350 Gan FET amp which I should receive in a few days. I've tried class D amps before and while they checked a lot of boxes I just didn't feel drawn in. However, I like to explore so I figured I'd try the GanFET and since the amp has zero feedback and my speakers seem to prefer amps with little or no feedback I figured it be worth checking out.

Today, Peachtree Audio sent out an email inviting users to a beta of their new Gan 1 amp. Here are some excerpts from their email:

 

What is the GaN 1?

In basic terms it is a 200 Watts-Per-Channel (WPC) Power Amplifier designed to be the sole interface between your digital audio device with a variable output, like a Bluesound NODE, and your speakers. The GaN 1 is a simple, pure and cost-effective audio solution: connect the GaN 1 to a streamer and a pair of speakers and you have an amazing Hi-Fi system. That's it...no DAC, no preamp and no input switching. The signal path from the music to your speakers is remarkably short and free of artifacts. Want to hear the intricate details in your music that have always been there, but you couldn't quite make them all out before? Then the GaN 1 is for you!

What makes the GaN 1 so special?

First and foremost is the GaN-FET amplifier module. It has several inherent advantages in a power amplifier that even the best MOS-FET designs simply cannot achieve. A GaN-FET power stage provides a precise high-power reproduction of the Class-D PWM signal with extremely high linearity. This linearity eliminates the need for ANY feedback, ultimately allowing for the best possible audio quality providing clean, clear middle and high frequencies and a tight, solid reproduction of low frequencies. GaN-FETs track the complex audio waveforms MUCH more accurately than MOS-FETs, resulting in significantly more transparent and natural sound. The difference is something even a casual listener can hear and appreciate. The GaN 1 is also designed so that it does NOT require a digital-to-analog-converter (DAC). The digital audio signal at the input directs the amplifier outputs to drive the speakers. Although DACs have continued to improve over the years, there is no DAC better than NO DAC! This concept is not new as similar devices known as "Power DACs" made quite a splash in our industry years ago. But this time around, by executing the concept with GaN-FETs, the bar is raised to an entirely new level.

Key Features at a Glance:

▪ 200 WPC state-of-the-art GaN-FET module
▪ ZERO feedback design
▪ Regulated 450-Watt power supply
▪ Coaxial S/PDIF input with native support up to 24-bit / 192kHz
▪ DAC-less design
▪ Power on/off trigger port
▪ All aluminum chassis
▪ No cooling fans

 

This sounded really interesting to me and since I have a good streamer I signed up for the amp beta only. One aspect that intrigues me is to create an extremely minimal signal path. My speakers are single driver, crossover-less design. Employing the GaN 1 will mean the system will be Auralic Aries --> GaN 1 --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's. Will that lead to a more engaging sound vs the full system? Will the Voyager GaN 350 outperform a tube amp in the full system? Who knows, should be fun to find out....

Now, I have no idea how either of these GaN FET amps will work with my speakers. The Cube Nenuphars seem to prefer amps with low damping and no negative feedback, which is more common with SET tube amps and Class A solid state amps. I'm not sure of the damping factor of the GaN FET amps, but both are Zero feedback designs, and both have way more wattage than I need. For reference, I have a 1.5 wpc 45 tube amp that sounds amazing with the Cubes, so high wattage is not required. I am interested though in what these amps will sound like compared to my tube amps, and I am particularly interested in what the streamer direct to amp Peachtree will sound like.

I am also looking to acquire a First Watt SIT-3, which is a great match with the Cubes, but now that they are no longer produced prices have gone above my current comfort level. If I can get one I will throw it into the experiment.

The Peachtree won't be shipped until sometime in June, or possibly later. In the meantime I will get the LSA Voyager in the next few days. I might even be able to get it hooked up this weekend so stay tuned, should be an interesting experiment...

abd1

Showing 50 responses by ricevs

I completely disagree with Ralph....and of course, the other guy....he he.

I can take any amplifier....including the Atmasphere class D amps and make them sound any way I want without touching the actual circuit......so it will still measure the same.  YOU CANNOT measure the sound of solder, wire, jacks....removing jacks, damping, wire directionality, capacitors, resistor brands, inductor brands, removing noise creating things like fuses and LEDs, adding exotic noise filters, etc, etc. into infinity.  I can hear ALL OF THESE THINGS and so can ANYONE else.....if they actually do serious listening tests on a tweaky system with an open mind. 

I have modified the super measuring Purifi amps and improved the sound tremendously.  Just read the review of my modified VTV amp on 10 audio and compare it with his review of the NAD C298 amp that he reviewed using the same modules......my amp sounds way better.

It is not "magic" that all these things sound different......it is just the way it is.  You can keep your head in the sand and pretend that all these things are just BS I am trying to sell you.......or you can believe your ears.  Lots manufacturers actually believe a lot of what I just posted.  They are constantly upgrading parts and execution because their ears tell them to.  Kef uses ordinary Chinese xover parts in their LS50 Meta......but uses serious xover parts in the Blade 2 Meta.....they use WBT input jacks, better wire, hard wired xovers, better resistors, capacitors and inductors.....every single thing in the Blade has been upgraded from the ordinary parts used in the way cheaper LS50.......they do this because it makes it sound better.....not for better bling....or so they can adverstise something that is not true.  What is really interesting is that Kef no longer shows off their super xover....like they did on the page for the original Blade.....they just say they updated the crossover more.......so they are not trying to leverage anything by using better SOUNDING parts.....except to make it sound better.  The most expensive Magico speakers use the more expensive and better sounding Mundorf parts.......the speakers do not measure better because of better SOUNDING parts.....they just sound better.  I could site hundreds of examples of complanies that tweak and use better sounding parts and offer varuious levels of product based on how much tweaking they add.

The art of audio....is just that......half engineering....and half listening to every single thing possible and putting it all together to give the best sound.  Measurements NEVER tell you all you want to know about the sound.  The first person to upgrade all the basic Chinese xover parts in their Mofi speaker with super sounding parts is going to have to scape their jaw off the floor after they listen to the upgraded speaker.....same with amps, preamps, DACs....whatever......measurements will only take you so far.  My modded GaN1 will sound way better than stock....yet it will still measure exactly the same.....I do NOTHING that would make it measure any different........this game is infinite.

Now, who wants the last word?  Can you guess?

Love you all beyond words.....you are all magnificent, magical and beautiful....forever and ever........

To call someone a fraud or charlatan without having any idea whether the persons information is true or not.....is slander. You have never listened to the things I have done so you have no actual knowledge.  Is this your mature? behavior?

I believe in you.....you are a miracle......so is everyone.  There are 60 trillion cells in your body......all dancing together.....and in the LOVE of GOD.  Every single breath is a cosmic miracle......every moment....this very moment is the most beautiful moment that has ever existed in the entire history of the entire universe......it's called the HERE AND NOW.

I was the world leading pusher of this technology based on my past knowledge and what others said about it.......but, when I listened to the stock GaN1 it was not what I thought it was......now it is. You can read anything into this you like. I tell the truth.....that is all I can do. The dealer Verdantaudio felt it sounded dry and thought it was good but not great.....well, he should hear it now.  You can read his comments on the best DAC under $7K thread.

Yes, lots of used GaN350s out there.  Looks like LSA has discontinued it and are probably working up an amp based on the much better sounding digital boards from EAS (if you talk to EAS they will tell you that the digital boards are more transparent).  Even the best digital amp system that can be made (yet to be done) will not sound like tubes.....there will always be those that prefer the "sound" of tubes....

I should have my webpage about all things: (digital amp/digital crossover/off the grid power/making your own speakers) up tonight or tomorrow and will share the link.

The dealer in Santa Rosa, CA can give you more info about the Maria amps (about remote, etc.).  The website shows they have them to demo.

Yes, the Peachtree GaN 400 amp and the LSA GaN Voyager amp are essentially the same.....same manufacturers modules and power supplies (unless a pic of the inside of the Peachtree shows different). These amps are NOT zero feedback. Right on the Peachtree site it says "low global negative feeback". The reviewer who thought it was zero feedback is WRONG.

This new Peachtree GaN 1 amp uses modules from the same company.....but these are indeed zero feedback as there are no analog stages to take feedback to. For this reason, they wiill not measure as good as the ones with feedback (ASR will not like these one bit). However, they are full "digital amps" like the Technics.....that is, they change the digital PCM signal directly in software to PWM (class D type of structure).......so you elimiinate your DAC and preamp and cables in between. The company that makes the modules (Elegant Audio Solutions) claims these "digital direct" amps sound better than the analog versions. The parts and execution of the output stages are the same in both modules (I have the brochures here).

So yes, you will hear quite a difference between the analog ones and the direct digital ones.....I hope the direct digital sounds better.....I am all for less is better......but we shall see.....er...hear.

The reason why the GaN 1 will list for $2K is that it uses a single stereo board and smaller power supply than the GaN400.  The GaN 400 uses two stereo boards bridged and a larger power supply.....hence the $3K price.

 

Actually it is a PCM to PWM converter.......it takes a PCM signal and converts it to PWM with code and then runs the converted signal through a class D output power stage using GaN fets. Yes, you could call it a power DAC (since it is converting digtal to analog) or most call it a digital amp.......Ralph Karsten of Atmasphere calls it a class D amp with digital input. However, there is no normal "DAC chip" of any kind...... So, use any name you like.....but "digital amp" is most widely used by the manufacturers (Technics, Lyndorf, etc.) who makes them.....Peachtree just calls it an "amp’"...he he. When it becomes official (taking their time)....maybe we will see more description.

What feeds your minidsp flex? What DAC, cable to preamp and preamp were you using with the M6S prx? And what was your source before? usb from something?

BTW, if you remove the toslink output connectors from the Minidsp flex or at least remove the voltage from them so they don’t turn on then the sound will be cleaner. LEDs (toslinks are an LED) add noise which messes up the sound. Been doing this for years with great success.  An upgraded power supply for the Minidsp flex would help too.

Also, since you are using so little power you can get a 2200 watt Giandel Inverter and a 100 amp hour battery and be completely off the grid......will blow your mind. Check out the thread on Misc. forum about inverters........super transparent sound all the time.....way better than dedicated lines and line conditioners.

mbolek,

Please give us some feedback.....How does it compare with other class d driven by the DAC/preamp in the Hifi Rose 150B?  

Sorry, don't quite understand your last paragraph....Did you A/B the Marantz with the peachtree using the same source and same speakers?......or are you comparing two different systems?  If you compared them directly, then can you describe the sound difference?  Thanks.

This is revolutionary.  His DAC is the Holo May KTE.....the preamp is the Holo Serene and the amps are mono block Kinki B7s....this is serious stuff.......every thing is in the top league in its price.......Please read the reviews on his OLD stuff.  Incredible reviews.......If you substituted an MSB select DAC in his old system would it be as good as the GaN1?.......How about a $100K amp?  Of course, you could mod the GaN1 amp and use Inverter power to take it to another whole level.  The revolution has come......No more heavy and expensive boxes....amen...

OK, please do a serious evaluation and let us know......thanks.

BTW....how does the Rose do digital out volume control? At 32Bits? or ? What digital cable are you using?

I would love to see a comparison of the IFI Zen Stream (using better linear power supply) with the much more expensive Rose 150.

This amp will only sound as good as the digital signal being put into it. How would this amp sound with the world's best streamer and cable?

Yes, indeed.  Your PS Audio Directstream Jr., Backert Pre and Pass 30.8 are $15K....plus cables......this is $2K.  Peachtree has 30 day trial.....would be really cool to find out.  Again, you could mod it for better sound (me can do) and you can add Inverter power for far better sound.

From what i have read the Lumin U1 and the IFI Zen Stream both seriously beat the Bluesound.

You can replace the output connectors with WBT Nexgens, replace the output wire, change the AC inlet to a Furutech and get rid of the external fuse (probably already has a fuse on the power supply board....which you can upgrade to serious audiophile fuse).  Then you could do power supply beefing, bypassing and trying different caps on the filter output (very important).   You could also Cryo the output inductors, etc.

Of course, you can use better footers and mass load/damp the chassis. 

Everything makes a difference. Every single thing inside the Node and Zen effect the sound.

LEDs add distortion. A toslink output is an LED.....the indicators for frequency are LEDs. I removed the toslink connector and the indicator LEDs. I hardwired a custom power supply cable directly into the I Purifier that comes from a hardwired custom power supply. I damped the I purifier with EAR SD40AL and also damped/mounted the I Purifier directly to the load (damping material running down the body of the I Purifier and onto the chassis of the DAC).

Have you tested this? Do you have a Zen and Node and the IFI I Purifier and you tested it with both units? Or is this a guess?.....since the Zen has a built in purifier. The Purifier would work best at the load....not the source. The I Purifier sounds even better when modded and a super hardwired power supply is used (yes, I have done this). However, sometimes it sounds best without the I purifier......Everything has to be listened to.

Thank you for the information on the insides. I am sure upgrading the wires and binding posts would make a noticeable improvememt in sound along with all the other things I noted.

Skip at Elegant Audio Solutions told me that his digital amps were better than the Technics..........but those are words. What is the reality? I hope someone A/Bs the Peachtree with any of the Technics....using the same source.

The amp board in there is a four channel board that is used as a bridged two channel amp. Each of the four single ended amps puts out 50 watts.....and two of them combined gives 200 watts. Imagine using one of these amps for each channel and wiring two of the channels for 50 watts and the other two for 200 watts. You could then use a minidsp or whatever as digital xover and triamp speaker drivers directly without any analog xover. You would have 50 watts on the tweeter and midrange and 200 watts for the woofer.....OMG......this would kill 100K systems for sure. I am sure some manufacturers of speakers are already looking into this.....the whole shebang would be inside each speaker......OMG again. The revolution has begun.....no more DACS, preamps, analog interconnects and big heavy amplifiers.......this thing is 10lbs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  The power amp board and switching power supply probably weigh something like 2 lbs total.

It probably is much better than stock......and you do incredible soldering and work.....looks better than my stuff.  Very professional.

A digital amp is a class D amp......but it has digital input and not an analog input. It changes the PCM directly to PWM in software and then drives a class D output stage. It does not use digits to drive the speaker. What comes out of it is analog. You might say a "digital amp" is a "power DAC". A digital amp is not a normal "class" of amp. It is just the name that TACT and Lyndorf and Technics use to describe their amps. Peachtree does not call it anything but an "amp".

Lyngdorf and Technics also make "digital" amps (Tact, now out of business, morphed into Lyngdorf). The Technics and Lyngdorf both have analog inputs along with digital inputs but the analog signal is changed to PCM with an ADC before going to the main chip to be changed to PWM. The Peacetree is the only "super simple" digital input class D amp made.....super simple meaning just a digital input and no volume control. The amp module inside the amp is inexpensive and you will see others using this technology......and other more high end complanies developing their own PCM to PWM conversion software and building their own digital amps. They will naturally be used in powered speakers, as well.....so you would have all the xovers, equalizaion, time alignment done inside speaker in the digital domain and then fed directly to the speaker drivers.....this will be fantastic!  However, then there will be less to tweak....Hey, where is the fun in that? Just fantastic sound? boring....he he.

If you buy the Peachtree and love it.....you are no longer looking for analog interconnects, DACs, or Preamps.....you simple do not need these components......Using the money you save, you can get a serious inverter like the Giandel 5000 watter and the Puritan line filter after it and blow your mind to kingdom come.

Thanks for the pics......now I see even more I can mod.  So far, everyone who has tried this thing has loved it and it beat whatever they had before.  I wonder how good it could sound with a Lumn U1 mini ($2400) with its super lossless LEEDH volume control?  What DAC, Preamp, amp combo can beat this thing?  So far, nothing.

mbolek,

On one had you rave about the sound.....and then with the other hand you say its best use is using it with cheap streamers in a secondary system......HUH? How can you be raving about the sound in your main system and say this?

I think that this thing has incredible possibilities.....in even the MOST high end system...yes, indeed. Do you know how much difference ethernet cables make? Ethernet switches? digital cables? footers? modding? streamers? digital volume control? running your entire system on an inverter with the Puritan AC filter afterwords? The people who are loving this thing have barely scratched the surface of what this thing can do. As you see, I am excited about this thing. When I first heard about the TACT integraded digital amp in the late 90s I thought that it was over for "regular" audio. Well, the TACT had its problems......and now it is 25 years later. The Peachtree, so far, has no problems.....and so far, it is beating $15K worth of great separates. What else will it beat?.....and like I said.....wait till people tweak more and really find out what this thing can do.

Here is a link to a review of a bunch of digital cables (all with bnc connectors). The same difference would still be there if using rca connectors. This will give you an idea of the differences EVERYTHING makes. We have only just begun!

 

You want more? How about making your own speaker and bi-amping with two of these amps. You get a miniDSP Flex (digital out version) $500 and you use this as your digital xover after your streamer......it has two digital coax outs so you can use one amp for each channel. You set the xover wherever you like and at whatever frequency you want (all done at 32 bit/96K). You make an open baffle, partially open baffle, or box speaker using super pure woofer and tweeter......I would use a 10 inch cone woofer (or maybe two Purify 7 inch woofers in parallel) and cross it/them over to a super AMT or Beryllium tweeter in a wave guide around 1.3 K. You hardwire your speaker wires directly inside the amp and directly to the voice coil wires on the woofer and to the tabs on the tweeter......This will kill most $100K systems.....no doubt. Of course, you can get another digital xover and more amps and do 3 and 4 way speakers, as well. You can equalize for flat at your listening position...time align, etc. all in the digital domain.....again...no DACS, no preamps, no normal amps, no analog interconnects and no transparency robbing and dynamics robbing passive xover parts......OMG.....mind blowing possibilities.

What is so cool is that anyone (above the age of 10 with normal IQ) can do this. You do not need to know most of the parmeters of the drivers and how to design a perfect passive xover. You just play in the software and then measure using a measurement mic and your ears. Of course, the Q of the drivers and the size of the box (if using one) has to be taken into consideration for bass loading. Pretty simple really.

I did not say that bnc connectors were inferior or superior to rca. You would have to listen to the connectors to know which is better. What is on the GaN 1 is an rca. If you add an adapter, then you add the "sound" of an adapter. If someone really has to have a BNC connector then I could add one to the GaN 1 as part of a mod. Personally, I would not do that.....just use a better rca connector and better wire going to the board....but who knows?

The 75 ohm thing is really only one small factor in the sound of things. Years ago I bought this "pure 75 ohm" digital cable from Goldmund....that was suppose to be baked in an oven to insure perfect 75ohm......well, I made my own digital cable in a few minutes using high purity six nines copper twisted together and just regular rca’s.....and it slaughtered the Goldmund cable for sound purity. My cable was who knows what impedance. There are sooooooooooooooooo many things that make a sonic difference. Getting hung up on 75 ohm or whatever single thing will not get you great sound.

I see you love to tinker.  Each of the different things you did should be audible. "never really know if they make any difference" seems very odd to me.  Everything I do in my system I hear and can describe.  Wire will sound best twisted in the same direction.....not opposite per phase.  Usually sounds best if you twist the wire in the direction of its internal windings.  Most wires it would be clockwise.

The important thing is to have fun.  Looks like you are enjoying yourself.....good for you.

This amp is not really about zero feedback.....it it MUUUUCH more. This amp is revolutionary. You are eliminating the DAC, Preamp, regular amp and analog cables. LESS IS MORE. I am pretty sure the stock GaN 1 is not quite as good as $400,000 worth of "normal" state of the art components. But a super tweaked version of this technology would, I am sure, beat the $400K electronics.

How much do you have to spend to beat this thing?.....$40K....more? So far, the stock unit has beaten $15K worth of super gear with it being sourced by a $400 streamer with a linear power supply.

If you are heavily into vinyl then I can see it would be hard to move in this direction as you have to run your phono stage through an ADC to convert it to high speed digital. But, if you listen to digital only and you have a system budget of $30K or less than I think there is NOW only one choice for most pure sound.....the GaN 1......If you like tube sound and have to have super liquid sound then again this is not your cup of tea......but solid state these days is pretty darn good.....and this thing is probably the king in the $20K solid state electronics game......and it costs $2K!!!!!!!! This will allow you to buy a better streamer with better digital volume control, super ethernet switching, super coax cable and better speakers and speaker wires...... for WAY, way better sound than what you currently have. This is just so cool. All the "normal" class D amp manufacturers, including Atmasphere, Merrill, AGD, Orchard, Purifi, Hypex, IcePower, etc. are now put on notice.......YOUR STUFF IS OBSOLETE! he he

You will see some of these manufacturers soon playing with this technology and other companies not currently making class D will join in the game. You will see $100,000 digital amps from Boulder and Gryphon.....you will see $25K digital amps from Classe, Luxman, Levinson, etc.....you will see $10K digital amps from lots of people and you see RIGHT NOW.....the Peachtree GaN 1 at $2K

Dealers do not want to know about this product.....this will kill the sales of their $3K-$20K integrated amps, and separates. This is a radical new thing that is going to shake up the "normal" audiophile community. Naturally, your 1 percenters will still want the mega buck linear amp systems. BUT YOU want this....if you value sound quality. And you can have it right now.

This is just the tip of the iceberg....bi and triamping your speakers using zero analog xover, powered speakers with everything built in.....it is all coming....very soon......everything controlled perfectly in the digital domain....time aligning, perfect bass in your room......THE FUTURE IS NOW!

They are sold with a 30 day money back thang.....so anyone can try one.....including any dealer. But then you would have to sign up as a dealer to sell them. And why would you want to sell them when you hardly make any money on it. You want to sell your $6K tube amp or whatever, plus DAC plus preamp plus cables. And it is not an easy sell as audiophiles are mostly loners and already have an opinion about things. This thing is off the charts weird. If it is so good (and it is) then how come a zillion poeple aren’t buying it? Because they just bought a new DAC or cable or preamp or amp....and now you all going to tell them that all that stuff is obsolete? They don’t want to believe it. They have too much ego and money invested in what they "think" is right. Also, you need a streamer or software with a good digital volume control (some of the expensive server/streamers do not have volume control because they are selling to a market that uses DACs and preamps). If you think about it....even Peachtree is probably not crazy about this thing. Since it beats their (now discounted) $3.5K separates......then they make less money. They need to make a dual mono version using the 400 watt boards and bigger power supplies and also have I2S and Usb inputs....and make it bigger and sexier....then they could make more money. I hope Peachtree is following this thread.

However, there are a few players out there that are now purchasing this thing and they will keep chiming in here and then you will see Darko review it with the Blue Sound and he will rave and that will help some but it will take a long time for most conservative audiophiles to embrace such a novel and cheap thing.....they will scream "this thing weighs 11lbs.!!!! it cannot be good.....it cost nothing....it cannot be good". I am doing my best to tell the world about this thing. I believe in it. I know it works......it will make many, many people happy. I like happy people. Goosebumps for the masses!!!!!

Re Kuribo comments:....We have 7 people commenting here that this thing sounds amazing on THEIR speakers. We have ZERO people saying it does not sound great on THEIR speakers. When the number of praises gets to 100 will you still come on here and say the same thing over and over again? Please listen to the amp and see if it sounds good on YOUR speaker.....the only thing that matters. However, we all know that you will NEVER listen to this amp so anything you say here is meaningless to anyone but you and other (measurements are everything) people. So, why waste your and our time? Are you a kill joy? You can live in praise and gratitude and be happy or live in put downs and righteousness and be unhappy. It is up to you. You choose every moment. We all do.

I have not researched all the possible digital xover options out there. I suggested the Minidsp flex for a two way because it is inexpensive and works at 32bit and 96K and would be easy to implement using two GaN 1’s.

I do not have a GaN 1 here yet........please send me one......I will make it sound much better.

So far, no one has said this amp is bright, grainy, two dimensional, unmusical or anything like that.....If it beats a Holo May KTE DAC with Holo Serene Preamp and Kinki B7 monos........it must be pretty darn good. Only YOU can know what it will sound like in your stereo......30 day money back....nothing to lose.

 

This is his MO.....he will keep pestering you as long as you reply. Best to put him on ignore because what he wants is fighting drama and attention (he knew in advance what the reaction to his comments would bring as he has done the EXACT same thing over and over already on this forum). Give him no attention or fight and he will go away. This MO comes from a lack of self love....as all of anyones foibles are linked to this.....including mine. We are ALL amazingly beautiful.....when we act anything but this.....we have forgotten how incredible we are. May you all know, feel and share your beauty.

The GaN 400 is nothing like the GaN 1.  The GaN 400 has one dollar op amps on the input with a ton of feedback.  It requires a DAC in front of it.  It certainly is a good amp (same amp as LSA Voyager).....but it no better than the Orchard Stereo amp or Purifi amps from VTV.......the GaN 1 has a shorter and purer signal path....meaning more transparency.  And then by spending less money by avoiding a DAC/preamp/cables and amp setup.....you can upgrade your speakers, speaker wires, and digital front end and add an Inverter for sound that is out of this world.  There is already one person here who has both the GaN 400 and the GaN 1.....both driven by the Rose streamer (DAC out to GaN 400 and digital out to GaN 1).  He preferred the GaN 1.   The revolution here is the direct digital input path.....same as what Technics and Lyngdorf are using.....but this amp is simpler and, I bet, better sounding.  

I don’t need to bet on the Gan 1 versus Gan 400.....it has already been A/Bed here on this thread. I was talking about the Technics and Lyngdorf amps....which both also use digital amp technology. The GaN 1 has no input switching or bit reducing volume control.....it is super simple and pure.....that is why I "think" it might be better......and the company that wrote the software....(Elegant Audio Solutions and their earlier company D2Audio which is now part of Renesas)....has been writing software since the early 2000s. No one in the world has A/Bed any of them, that I know of. The main "conversion" from digital to analog or...PCM to PWM is written in software in a digital amp......so the better the software the better the sound. That is why there will be even better digital amps in the future.....besides the power supply purity, parts purity, etc. that also effects sound.

Apparently you don’t know that the LSA Voyager and the Peachtree GaN400 are essentiallly the same amplifier. Both use the same amp boards and probably the same power supplies from EAS (Eleagant Audio Solutions). The LSA site says there are just a few Voyagers left....so maybe they are going to the digital input boards, as well.

The Peachtree GaN 1 is another board from EAS but it is a digital input only board. If you ask EAS which is better (the same board with analog input or the one with digital).....they will tell you the digital is better.....no op amps, no feedback...no DAC or preamp needed.......digital amps are the future of audio. You will see over the next five years more and more complanies going over to this. It is sonically the purest way of amplification.. The future is now with the GaN 1 and soon other companies will be making amps with the EAS boards and they have 400 watt a channel stereo and mono boards.....The revolution is here...NOW!

Of course, there will be other companies coming out with their own boards (Mytek just hinted at that in an interview). The way you do anything effects the sound. So, how you write the software that converts PCM to PWM, the clocking, the power supplies, the bypass caps, the output filter components, etc, into infinity will all still change the sound. However, this first one we have here from EAS is so good that it can replace $15-$20K worth of normal DAC, preamp and amp. The GaN1 can be modded for higher perfomance right now, as well.

The LSA Voyager is $2400.....the GaN 400 is $2500.......the GaN 1 is $2K (on sale now for 1.4K)......and you don’t need a multithousand dollar DAC or preamp or analog interconnects.....way better sound for way less........can you dig it?

There are other class D amps under $3K right now that are REALLY great....the (non GaN) Purifi modules, new new Hypex modules (NCx500 and the diy Nilai 500), the GaN Orchard amps and even the inexpensive Class D audio Mini GaN......but all these need a DAC and don’t sound as good. Bye bye normal amps, DACs, preamps and analog interconnects.....there is a new world....and it is here NOW. Embrace it for your hearts and ears sake.....and with the money you saved.....you can get your wife/children something nice.

You need a streamer with a built in volume control......like the $400 IFI Zen Streamer (a linear power supply option will help sound).  You use wireless or ethernet to stream and you can also use a usb stick/hard drive to play files.  So, you would download all your CDs and other files (including high rez PCM) onto a thumb drive/hard drive and play them with the Zen Stream app on your smart phone.  If you have analog as a source, you would need to convert it to high speed PCM and then play it through the usb input.

The $2400 Lumin U2 Mini has Leedh digital volume (completely lossless) and probably better sound than the IFI jobbie....However, no one has commented here on the difference in sound.

Very good.  How will you be getting the digital signal to the coax input on the GaN 1 and how are you controlling the volume?.....ie. what is your signal path before the GaN1?

You could bi-amp and make your own speaker that might sound better than Kef or Yamaha driven with normal gear.....  You use the $600 minidsp xover and buy two amps and make a speaker using (for example) two Purifi woofs per side with a Beryllium tweeter in between...crossover at 1K at 48db per octave......With no passive xover and tweaking you will have sound that is unbelievable.  Anyone can make you the boxes.  You can even put them in a sealed box so you do not even have to know anything about box size and ports......just make the box as deep as you can and then just equalize using the crossover.....you should get punchy bass to 30 hz with two of the kick ass Purifi 6.5 inch woofs.

Yup, you will have to use a converter.....usb to coax. Here is one of many:

https://www.sonore.us/ultraDigital.html

There will be units with multiple inputs, including usb input, volume control built in, xover/equalizer built in and multichannel out so you can use this one integrated amp to drive speaker drivers directly.....one box solution.....you just make your own speaker and hook this thing up and play with the settings....easy as pie.....and better than $100K systems based on the old paradigm (DAC, cable, Preamp, cable, normal amp, whole bunch of xover parts then the speaker drivers). We no longer need any of that stuff....none of it. Of course, this will not be tube sound and not all will like it. But, if you want pure transparency and super detail and goosebumps and wowiezowie.....this will do.

I will have my webpage done by tomorrow (maybe even tonight) and post the link to all this madness.....he he.

First, very rough draft.....way more to come.....please feel free to contact me about anything that might be added, helpful or incorrect.  This link is going to be sent to reviewers, manufacturers and posted on forums all over the world.....I am spreading the word!

http://tweakaudio.com/EVS-2/The_Audio_Revolution_has_begun.html

When you do not know that EVERYTHING makes a difference then you concentrate on the only things you can see/know. 24/192 might sound a little better than 24/96 into the amp.......but there are so many things that make WAY more difference than that. For instance, the digital cable from the coax jack to the amp board is totally ordinary with ordinary connectors on it. I would remove the input jack board and check underneath that board to see if there is a coupling cap and or 75 ohm resistor there. If there are parts there then replace those parts with better ones and then hardwire  a super sounding cable from that board directly to the amp board (no connectors on either end). If there are no parts underneath the input connector board then solder a super wire directly onto the pins of the input jack.....bypassing the board altogether. This will make much more difference than going between 96K and 192K. Of course, there are other things to try on the amp board.

The power supply to the Flex should be killer....and best if hardwired.

Ralph, When will your digital amp be available? We don’t need no stinkin DACs, preamps and normal feedback amps!....he he. And the fact that we can use digital xovers and equalitzaion without extra DACs and amps is incredible....way more pure and transparent. The revolution has begun!

mbolek, You are the only person in the world who has modded the GaN 1......I think you hinted at changing the coax wire inside......please try this, it should make a big difference.....and eliminate the connectors on the wire, if you can....hardwiing is always best.....and all coax wires sound different (please re read the review of all the digital cables linked to on page 2).....Because one is made from silver does not mean it will give the best sound. Try different ones. I will be doing this when I get one in here to mod.

What is so funny is that any load dependency really does not mean anything to anyone except those who look at numbers. If an amp is 1 db down at 20K with a 4 ohm load (so that means your tweeter has a 4 ohm load).....then your speaker will be down about one quarter db at 10K.......do you think you can hear this? Do you think you can hear 1 db down at 20K?

What is so cool about the pure digital amps is that you will ALL end up using them with a digital xover. This is part of the revolution. The digital amp gets rid of the preamp and DAC and analog interconnects and normal amp. But the revolution does not end there. The parts inside your speaker are messing up the sound. By using a pure digital xover you get rid of those parts, you can use a tweeter much lower in frequency to get more transparency by using high order slopes, you can time align, equalize, room correct......all without sonic loss. So, even if your zero feedback digital amp were driving a tweeter with a 2 ohm load and there is some loss there.....well, you just boost the highs in the crossover to compensate......end of story. This is the revolution.....digital amps and multiamping using a digital xover.......YOU ALL WANT THIS. This will give the best sound in the world. LESS IS MORE!!!!!

How do you do the @ thang..?.....you know with their name afterwords

mbolek,

The dirt cheap iluminati cable was one of the better digital cables 25 years ago.  I cannot imagine that it sounds anywhere near as good as a serious cable today.  We have better conductors, better dialectric material, better standing....we can cryo, better damping, etc.  I make my own digital cable by hand using a twisted pair high purity Cardas 24 gauge bare copper wires that is then put into a cotton sleeve and I twist the the hot and ground together.  I listen to the wire off the spool for best sound direction.  This is the first wire I will try inside the amp when I get one in here.....I will try some other expensive wires too......including silver/gold combos.  I find the 75 ohm thing not nearly as important as other things I have tried.  Back in the late 90s I bought a Goldmund digital cable that was suppose to be baked in an oven so it would be super pure 75ohm.  I made a twisted pair cable out of Nimtec high purity copper in a teflon sleeve in 10 minutes that blew it away.  My cable was just a twisted pair....with no mind to whatever impedance it was.....lots going on here that people do not understand.

BTW, the GaN 1 digital board measures almost the same frequency response as the board in the GaN 400 (analog input board). It is one db down at 20K using a 4 ohm load. This will give less than one quarter db attenuation at 10K......no one can hear this. However, with a 2 ohm load it is 2db down at 20K.....so it will make 10K down one half db.....maybe you could hear this. OMG this is so horrible!!!! (Kuribo speaking here). There is maybe one person in 100 with a speaker that MAYBE you could hear the rolloff.......I don’t hear much above 10K myself. There are a couple of electrotats that have very low impedance at 20K and there are a handfull of regular speakers that have a 2 ohm tweeter load.......but very, very few. Just go to stereophile mag and read the measurements of various spekakers they have reviewed lately....only the Kef Blade 2 goes a little under 4 ohms at 10k.....all the rest are above 4 ohms......just not an issure.

So, thinking you need feedback and op amps and DACs and Preamps and analog cables so you do not have this very slight problem that practically no one will hear is simply silly. But, some people make mountains out of mole hills.....hey, I get excited for positive things.....some people get excited to put things down.

I like UP myself. I say Yes to life.....and Blessings to all......how about BLESSESS......Beautifully Love Every Single Soul Every Single Second

On one hand the "measurements are everything" people (Kuribo, ASR people) say that all amps sound the same......so don't listen to them.  On the other hand they love low distortion measurements.....so they say buy the ones with best measurements (that they like).

Pretty silly way to get a great SOUNDING system.  Just trust the nerds....they are always right. Please no not listen for yourself and choose the one that sounds best to you.  Two people on this thread prefer the GaN 1 to their Purifi amps..........but what do they know!?!.....they just did listening comparison tests in their system......they did not measure.  listening tests mean nothing....the only thing that matters is how it measures......everyone knows this!......ha ha.

Poor anti tweak, anti listening objectivists.....they have nothing better to do but bother people who want good sound.......and who listen.

BTW, my computer Altec speakers sound great.....paid $29 at Fry's for them years ago.....powered....little woofer on floor...amazing sound.  Seriously.  Not as good as my big rig......but makes me laugh, cry and dance with delight.  May you all be merry this season and every day of the year.  Every day is Christmas.....every day is your Birthday......celebrate good times, come on!

The module was measured at different impedances:

16 ohm......up .15 db at 20K

8 ohm ......flat at 20K

4 ohm........minus 1 db at 20K  (quarter db down at 10K)

2 ohm.......minus 2 db at 20K.  (half db down at 10K)

However, the only thing that matters is how it sounds. Seems to sound lovely to most.

 

Sirnui,

Please contact me through my normal email address (listed on my website).....thanks.

What is the chain when you use the Benchmark?  Benchmark DAC3?, Benchmark pre?, Benchmark amp? with two analog cables?.....total cost? compared to $1400 stock GaN 1?  What power cords, footers and line conditioning are you using?  Do you have any damped weight on the Gan1?  Will be nice to hear what you say when it is fully burned in and also after you get it modded (rubbing my hands together in anticipation....he he).

You guys really need to use the Giandel 5000 watt inverter run on LifePo4 batteries.....will blow your mind.....so pure and open.

A stock GaN1 amp is really good.....but there are so many ways to make it better:

1. Eliminate the junk AC/Fuse connector and use a Furutech inlet......The better inlet and removal off the fuse will sound much better. You don’t need two fuses: one on the power supply and one on the outside of the amp....one bad fuse is bad enough....two is worse.

2. Changing the AC input wire to the power supply with seriously good sounding larger gauge wire......better sound again.

3. Changing the fuse on the power supply to an audiophle fuse for better sound again.

4. Change the output wire to better sounding wire and hardwire at both ends....(no push on connectors).

5. Change the output jacks to the better sounding WBT nextgens.....or even better to my plastic clamp goodies (you cannot use bananas with my plastic clamps...only spades and bare wire). Clampng using plastic hardware (all metals....even as a clamp...wreck the sound) is really the same as hardwiring. You are clamping the wire coming from the output wire from the amp board directly to your spade or bare wire on your speaker wire. I will be ordering the plastic parts soon and have the clamps available for people to use on any amp and/or speakers. The plastic wing nutted clamps will be mounted on painted wood (either as a single pair for mono use....or two sets for stereo use). This is the worlds best connector....better than silver binding posts or anything else you can think of........same sound as soldering the wires together.

6. Change the spdif input wire to way better sounding wire (hardwire at both ends....no connectors).

7. Try removing the "extra" inductor on the speaker wires.

8. Change and or modify the output filter caps on the amp board.

9 Damp certain parts.

10. Shield certain parts.

11. etc. to infinity.

So, if it is this good now.......OMG.......you are in for a treat.

Down the road, completely different power supplies can be tried...Even linear supplies......fun times ahead.

There are no normal coupling caps in a digital amp.....just the filter caps to ground on the output.  However, sometimes on an spdif input there will be a tiny .1uf coupling cap to block DC.......we will see if there is one in the GaN1.....if so, I will certainly upgrade it.

Sure, send me the amp.  I am just now ordering an IFI Zenstream and will mostly be listening to files through a usb stick plugged into the back of the IFI.....Especially want to hear my 24/192 download of Tea for the Tillerman that was transferred from the master tape using the $30K ADC from MSB.......

NO..NO.....You need a PLUS and MINUS 32 Volt 400+ Watt power supply for the module. Most switching and linear supplies only have plus voltage. Making your own linear supply would be easier than trying to find an off the shelf supply.......but maybe in your searches you will find a plus and minus 32V supply....happy hunting. It has to be rated at least 400 watts.....the more the better.

I think it is at least 8 people on this thread that have gotten the amp and ALL love it.

When someone is posting who is righteous.....they have to have the last word/post. So, do not reply to these people as they will just keep FIGHTING and saying the same thing over and over.....and who wants to hear the same nonsense spoken by those that have no experience with this product (and refuse to listen or even... believe in listening).

Please ignore them.....they want drama....everytime you try to defend me or listening then they just keep firing back.......if you ignore them then there is no drama and no need for them to be here.....IGNORE THEM Please.

Have a wonderful NEW YEAR and may you all be blessed with LOVE, JOY, and Happiness.......

The lack of your knowledge is not shocking....it is a common trait amongst those that refuse to listen and think they know everything there is about audio by looking at meters and squiggles. Only about 10% of serious audiophiles believe like you ASR types......the other 90% actually think that cables, and line conditioners, capacitors, resistors, etc.....all make a sonic difference and those 90% know that the sonic difference is heard (and they hear it) but cannot be measured.  Why are you on a forum where you are the serious minority?  Do you just like being right?  Why would you comment about something that you have no interest in nor would you ever even try listening to it to see if it makes a difference?  What is your purpose here?  No one can learn anything from you because you do not listen.  "Just buy the stuff that measures the way we say is best".......is all you say.....over and over again.  Very sad......If feel sorry for you....you are missing out on so much goosebumps from discovering some free tweak that blows your mind.....really!!!....the universe is infinite.....you are infinite...exporation is fun.