Okki Nokki or kirmuss audio / isonic ultrasonic rcm?

 Ken, in my estimation, you need both a conventional record cleaning regime as well as ultrasonic, at least for used records. 
I know there are those who think any vacuum machine adds static and potential cross-contamination but you can minimize those; in addition, ultrasonic cleaning brings something more, but it doesn't in my experience deal well with grunge embedded into old records as effectively as when combined with conventional cleaning.
DIY ultrasonic offers a feature set that is unavailable on commercial made for LP ultrasonic cleaners, including multiple frequencies, degassing, and high grade filtration.  
I'm also a big believer in a pure water rinse to remove any remaining surfactant and contaminants on the record. Much is in the method as well as the machines. 
I had an Audio Desk, currently have the KL and when it goes, will go DIY. On the vacuum front, had an ancient VPI since the early '80s and now use a big Monks. But, with 'best practices' I could get very good results on the old VPI, using two vacuum wands (one for fluid, the other for rinse and two applicators, for the same reason). 
It takes more work, is not 'one button' convenience, but for old records purchased used, the ultrasonic alone was not a complete solution for me. I learned this from trying to clean some pretty valuable old pressings that weren't easily replaceable. I have, over the years, developed various routines, so my practices will vary, depending on the condition of the record-- 
You can bring this in on a budget. 

This thread might be a big help with a cost effective way to get you where you are heading. It works great!
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/rushton-s-diy-approach-to-ultrasonic-record-cleaning-published-by-posit?highlight=rushton%2Bultrasonic

See pics of the setup on my system page which is linked in one of the posts on pg3 or here:
https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/133
Cheers,
Spencer

Thank you Spencer and Thank you Whart. I will continue to research this week. 

I picked up an Okki Nokki and cleaned 5 records with their supplied fluid. It seems to do a nice job. I bought a Mofi brush ($20) which is much nicer than included brush. 

Hi Whart, how can I minimize static when usisng a vacuum RCM? 

I had a Kirmuss and while it cleaned records fine it was a PITA to use. Has like 25 steps so it becomes a real chore and only after I cleaned 7 or 8 records it just sat and I never used it. Sold it and would never us a Kirmuss again. 

 

rsf507

I had a Kirmuss ... Has like 25 steps so it becomes a real chore and only after I cleaned 7 or 8 records it just sat and I never used it.

That's exactly what I like most about the Klaudio US cleaner. It's a simple one-button solution to record cleaning. Nothing could be simpler.

For the past 13 or so years I had been using a VPI 16.5 RCM. I'm older now recently decided I wanted something more automated and purchased a Clearaudio Double Matrix Pro Sonic RCM. It's awesome and the VPI will be posted for sale later this week.

I agree with @whart that you need a manual and ultrasonic clean to get the cleanest record. The Kirmus is a modified Isonic machine.  For what it's worth, Isonic has been producing ultrasonic cleaners for multiple applications for some time.  I believe their products are likely built well.  I own one and have been happy with it.  I also own a Degritter, which I use last in my cleaning process.  I pre clean dirty records with my VPI 16.5, which was my first cleaner-it's a work horse.  The first phase doesn't require anything exotic, a spin clean with a proper surfactant would suffice.  Prior to putting it in the ultrasonic bath, it will need a quick rinse-tap water will be fine at this stage.  There are inexpensive handles to insert in the center hole of an lp that will protect the labels if you choose this route.  I would also recommend that you peruse Neil Antin's on line publication on the cleaning of vinyl records.  If I were in your shoes, I wouldn't hesitate to get the isonic unit, but limit yourself to 4-5 discs at a time.  Too much energy is lost with the 10 disc option.  A spin clean is an inexpensive mechanical first clean option.  The DeGritter is awesome-better than the Clearaudio Double Matrix (have one also)-but at a higher price point.  Good luck and happy cleaning.

Thanks for the shout out, @orthomead.

Hi, @portoalegre. I just saw your question because orthomead used the "@" in front of my screen name which brought me back to this thread. Neil Antin @antinn can probably give you a far better scientific explanation of the causes, but my experience with record handling and static generally starts with looking for the cause, which is often friction- when you unsleeve a record (especially a new one in a too tight paper inner sleeve), wearing socks or shoes on a carpeted floor, which can easily create a charge. I work in bare feet.

Most wand vacuum RCMs can impart a charge if over-vacuumed. The difference between getting a record dry and charging it is a fine line; for that reason, I prefer using a point nozzle (like the older style Monks or Loricraft). Percy Wilson, who studied record cleaning back in the early ’60s, suggested leaving the record slightly damp, but I don’t do that. I do rinse, always, to remove the contaminants including residue of the cleaning fluid (which may be bound up with the contaminants).

I have no magic solution to eliminate static after that, apart from trying to avoid introducing a charge to the record, as described above. I typically do not use dry brushes, many of which- despite their claimed anti-static properties, simply move the surface dust around. For years, I’ve been using one of those air puffers- like the Giotto’s Rocket Blaster, or one Neil introduced me to (you can find it on Amazon) similar to the Giotto product but has a HEPA type filter on intake. It’s under 20 dollars.

I’ve also experimented with different aftermarket sleeves. The best "cheap" one is a translucent Japanese round bottom type made of HDPE--these can be ordered from a number of sources- they are fairly loose fitting and don’t shed like some others. The other thing I do once I resleeve the record is not to try and shove it back into the outer jacket. Instead, I use jacket covers (also HDPE, but some are very clear, like Mylar and heavier mil)-- Sleeve City sells one that is overlarge and meant for gatefold/double albums. This gives me room to replace the record outside the jacket--I add more protection between the back of the jacket cover and record by using the original inner liner (especially if it has artifact value) and will use stiff generic record jackets that you can buy in bulk (with a cut-out to see the label). That way, the record is protected, but you are not shoving the record back into a tight jacket which can, again, create a charge.

I have long had various iterations of the anti-static gun that is sold for this purpose, but rarely use it; people have found those piezo fire starters (for outdoor grills) do the same thing far cheaper. Those devices tend to impart a strong charge and at least the "gun" (Zerostat) is strong and often harder to use. I rarely have static issues once I’ve cleaned a record and handle it in the manner described. I also have a very good HVAC system and keep the humidity a little higher in the rooms upstairs where the records are kept.

Neil can add or correct anything I’ve said here with the science. My comments are just based on doing this a long time and being interested in the processes for cleaning and preserving the medium. Good luck!