JVC tt-101 repair

Yes I did.Reply sent.

audpulse, did you get my email?

Email sent.

I have one with your name written all over it. I have had it for two years now just gathering dust. Person like you could put it to a good use.audpulse@aol.com is waiting for your PM.

Gary7, send me your location address for a 7045 tonearm.

You have one for sale? How can I PM you?

Gary7, send me your location address for a 7045 tonearm.

Still would like a 7045 arm, though.

The 7045 is often on sale on ebay, a little less than 5045.

Mine, after the eyelet procedure is still running fine. Been enjoying it. Still would like a 7045 arm, though.

i have two of them here, nobody touched them yet, but one of them is working only if i touch the platter by fingers first.

my turntable has the exact same problem, then after some time he begins to lose laps and slows down to stop

Great, i have two of them here, nobody touched them yet, but one of them is working only if i touch the platter by fingers first. The problem with the repair services is that some of them prefers the original condition, not after someone else repair.

After watching SoundSmith video i realized he could repair vintage electronics too. Maybe i should ask about their quotes and experience with TT-101. I'm thinking to send him one of my Victor direct-coupled MC cartridges for repair. 

@chakster
bring patience, I will receive from the trusted technician my TT101 not completely repaired but I found a couple of repairers in Italy who could try to repair my unhurried, I just have to decide who to choose among the volunteers who agreed to receive my turntable .

if in a few months I could get my turntable full repaired I have no problem leaving the repairer address so that the owners of the TT 101-81 and 71 breakdowns spread around Europe can contact for all the information .

Hi, my trusted repairer today has given up and in a few days I will return the TT 101 (after 9 months) partly repaired and partly still broken ..... now I have to look for a repairer who knows the TT101 as himself.

Got the cable in today & put my AT30e on. Sounds really nice. Very Happy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fPYYz3JHQY&feature=youtu.be

I've seen several nice 801's show up, but none of them had healthy platter mats.  The vacuum doesn't work without the original mat. 

Have you seen The TT-801 on the bay. Man! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Rare-Victor-JVC-TT-801-Direct-Drive-Turntable/323257267444?hash=item4...

I’ve an L-07D, PS-X9, TX-1000, and a couple MK3 in front of it.  

Realized a short while ago mine has been on the shelf for more than a year now. Too many projects.

Go for it.

Realized a short while ago mine has been on the shelf for more than a year now. Too many projects.  

Anyone looking for 120V/240V transformers for the TT101 I have a few that a I had made when I restored mine - which still is sitting on the shelf with few issues to be figured out :-)

Good Listening

Peter

lewm 
And the primary of the power transformer in my TT101 can be switched for 100V, 120V, and 240VAC input.

That clears things up as I thought I had seen the QL-10 designation
on not only the plinths but also the drives. 

Nah, won't cause damage.  A lot of techs will reflow and add a bit of solder and it's usually not an issue, or it lasts long enough it doesn't matter.  This is one unit where every factor is against you, so the chance of joint failures is high.  I typically see excess solder leading to improperly formed filets, etc.  As long as you're not damaging the board no issue. 

The issue with Lews unit didn't recur here on its own.  I had to flex the board a good amount to get the joint to open, and that in turn caused other joint failures that needed fixed.  It's a bear to do right. 

"Reflow without new flux, etc. same advice applies."  
Dave did not mention it, I didn't think about it. Shows my limited knowledge. Just glad I didn't do more damage.

That’s great Lew.  I believe I raised humidity as a possible contributor - glad that seems to be it. 

Reflow without new flux, etc. same advice applies.  

"Gary, Even if re-soldering all those eyelets proves to be a cure for your issue, I still recommend attention to those electrolytic capacitors and also re-calibration. "


I very much intend to do that. I’ve talked to a fellow in Nashville who sounds like it’s up his alley. As far as the eyelets, I did not add any solder to them, just re-flowed what was there.

Totem, No insult intended to you, but it sometimes irks me that people make authoritative statements that tend to mislead the OP.  Like Gary inferred, the QL10 was a package that included a plinth (insert model name here), the TT101 chassis, and usually a UA7045 tonearm.  So, if you buy a QL10, you get a TT101 in the bargain, along with plinth and tonearm.  (Since I own a QL10, I can find out the model name of the plinth, if anyone is interested.)  And the primary of the power transformer in my TT101 can be switched for 100V, 120V, and 240VAC input.  In my house, it runs on 120V.  So, in that way mine is like Gary's.  Someone else opined that those that can run on other than 100V were made originally for export and were sold at US military PXs in Japan and Asia.  I have no idea if that is true, but it makes sense.

JP, You might want to know that the little glitch at start-up of my TT101, which I reported to you a month or two or three ago, has evidently cured itself.  I've been running a very small space heater occasionally in our cool and sometimes damp basement where the TT101 lives, so maybe that did the trick.

Chakster and Gary, It is no discredit to Bill Thalmann that he was unable to fix my TT101.  It simply refused to misbehave while in Bill's shop, on two separate occasions.  One could hardly expect him to fix a problem that did not present itself.  It was only after I tried to fix it myself, and my blind tinkering caused what was an intermittent problem to become constant, that the problem got solved (albeit by JP).  I still hold Bill in the highest regard.

Gary, Even if re-soldering all those eyelets proves to be a cure for your issue, I still recommend attention to those electrolytic capacitors and also re-calibration.

If it does it again get a solder sucker and remove all the old solder before re-soldering.  Mixing alloys can lead to failures especially on joints subject to stress like those are. 

It is the QL-10 plinth, minus the 7045 tonearm. Has a QL-10 badge on the plinth. The lable on the TT-101 lists voltage as 120V.

gary7 

Think I asked this question on the "other" site 
you mentioned 115 volt so it is a QL-10 since the TT-101
was not produced in that voltage.

What he says makes sense. The expansion and contraction of the board & connections. Basically the same as a cold solder joint.

Yes I did. There are quite a few on the exposed side. You have to look under the wires. Dave recommends doing both sides and I’ll get to that. I ran it several hrs last night, switching between speeds, the pitch control, stopping & starting. Checked it again this mourning and holding steady.

Did you resoldered all the eyelets by your own? 
This is what Dave adviced me to do too, but i never tried yet.

Anyway you have to run your turntable for some time to check it out. 

I’ve been conversing with Dave Brown at modularsynthesis.com. This is what he relayed to me about the TT-101


"Dave Brown <davebr@modularsynthesis.com> May 16 (2 days ago)to me

I believe that turntable uses a double sided PCB but without plating, so there are no connections from front to back. The way they solved this was by putting eyelets in the appropriate places and soldering them on both sides. The issue is there is a difference in the coefficient of expansion between the eyelets and the PCB and they eventually crack the solder joint and fail.

I am fairly certain that if you pull the PCB and resolder every eyelet on both sides of the PCB that there is a good chance it will come back to life. The symptoms you describe are of an intermittent, not a hard failure, and this could very likely be the issue. I do get confused on what turntables have what technology.

On the models that use single sided PCBs, the connectors will wiggle and break the pads from the traces. On those I use epoxy and glue the connectors to the PCB so they are rigid, then use a piece of wire to bridge every trace and repair the cracks. Your turntable will use one of these technologies and those are the failure modes. I’m pretty certain yours uses eyelets.

Hope this helps.

Dave"

Last night I pulled the cover and went at the "eyelets" with my iron. I only did the exposed side. I hooked it back up. Lo & behold, the speeds locked on & held. I will eventual send to some one who can recap it and set it to specs. But nice to see it actually playing consistently.

I just know my limits as far as electronics repair. I’d rather not destroy a nice piece of equipment when there are others that have the skills to fix it. I respect that.

@gary7 if you are lazy to read the thread full of info about TT-101 repair simply email to Dave Brown via his site, he's the one who can fix not only synthesizers , but a TT-101 and he already fixed some of them for audiogon members. 

I went to modularsynthesis.com and all they showed was synthesizers.

I thought jp sounded familiar :)

My option is same as chakster, great work by Dave ...

We’ve chatted on AK, gary7.  I’m not able to take on work ATM. 

How do I contact jp? I don't seem to be able to send a PM.

Bill does not fixed Lew’s turntable, you’d better contact Dave Brown if you’re in US. His rates are simply $25/hour and that includes time for packing and shipping. He has fixed tt-101 and tt-81, find his contacts on hus website: modularsynthesis.com

But our jpjones should be the best option to fix and calibrate tt-101 

Often the boards need significant resoldering to eliminate cracked or compromised connections, and the boards are fairly fragile at this point...making tricky work for the tech.

I didn't know that the TT-101 was made in a 120v version...good to know.

If the above tech recommendations fall through pm me, I may have another...

Does Bill Thalmann still work on tables? How can I contact him?

@lewm some people simply charge per hour for the tt-101 repair work, others just stated $1k estimate (but they already know it's not simple). 

Chakster, I don't know how you can put a number on the repair cost without knowing what is the problem, but I do agree that the cost is likely to be in the vicinity of $1000, if anything other than simple calibration is needed.  And here goes my usual mantra:  If you're having it worked on by a trained pro, that is the right time to start by replacing all the electrolytic capacitors, if it is likely that they are still the originals.  Electrolytics are not built to last 30-40 years.  To calibrate before or without updating those capacitors is likely to result in a short term cure of the problem, as the caps will eventually go bad if they are not already bad.  Any good repair guy will tell you the same thing.

The cost of repair and calibration is about $1000
In Germany it’s about 1000 euro + tax
There is a repair guru in Australia as well


You have to read this thread first if you’re looking for cheaper options (in USA or in UK). Many of us have TT-101, i have two of them, find symptoms in this thread, it’s all there:
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/vintage-dd-turntables-are-we-living-dangerously?highlight=vin...

In which country do you live? 

You need JP Jones at Fidelis Analog.
QL10 isn't a DJ TT.

Cool turntable. Did it come from a DJ?