JVC tt-101 repair

How do I contact jp? I don't seem to be able to send a PM.

Does Bill Thalmann still work on tables? How can I contact him?

I thought jp sounded familiar :)

I went to modularsynthesis.com and all they showed was synthesizers.

I just know my limits as far as electronics repair. I’d rather not destroy a nice piece of equipment when there are others that have the skills to fix it. I respect that.

What he says makes sense. The expansion and contraction of the board & connections. Basically the same as a cold solder joint.

I’ve been conversing with Dave Brown at modularsynthesis.com. This is what he relayed to me about the TT-101


"Dave Brown <davebr@modularsynthesis.com> May 16 (2 days ago)to me

I believe that turntable uses a double sided PCB but without plating, so there are no connections from front to back. The way they solved this was by putting eyelets in the appropriate places and soldering them on both sides. The issue is there is a difference in the coefficient of expansion between the eyelets and the PCB and they eventually crack the solder joint and fail.

I am fairly certain that if you pull the PCB and resolder every eyelet on both sides of the PCB that there is a good chance it will come back to life. The symptoms you describe are of an intermittent, not a hard failure, and this could very likely be the issue. I do get confused on what turntables have what technology.

On the models that use single sided PCBs, the connectors will wiggle and break the pads from the traces. On those I use epoxy and glue the connectors to the PCB so they are rigid, then use a piece of wire to bridge every trace and repair the cracks. Your turntable will use one of these technologies and those are the failure modes. I’m pretty certain yours uses eyelets.

Hope this helps.

Dave"

Last night I pulled the cover and went at the "eyelets" with my iron. I only did the exposed side. I hooked it back up. Lo & behold, the speeds locked on & held. I will eventual send to some one who can recap it and set it to specs. But nice to see it actually playing consistently.

Yes I did. There are quite a few on the exposed side. You have to look under the wires. Dave recommends doing both sides and I’ll get to that. I ran it several hrs last night, switching between speeds, the pitch control, stopping & starting. Checked it again this mourning and holding steady.

It is the QL-10 plinth, minus the 7045 tonearm. Has a QL-10 badge on the plinth. The lable on the TT-101 lists voltage as 120V.

"Gary, Even if re-soldering all those eyelets proves to be a cure for your issue, I still recommend attention to those electrolytic capacitors and also re-calibration. "


I very much intend to do that. I’ve talked to a fellow in Nashville who sounds like it’s up his alley. As far as the eyelets, I did not add any solder to them, just re-flowed what was there.

"Reflow without new flux, etc. same advice applies."  
Dave did not mention it, I didn't think about it. Shows my limited knowledge. Just glad I didn't do more damage.

Realized a short while ago mine has been on the shelf for more than a year now. Too many projects.

Go for it.

Have you seen The TT-801 on the bay. Man! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Rare-Victor-JVC-TT-801-Direct-Drive-Turntable/323257267444?hash=item4...

Got the cable in today & put my AT30e on. Sounds really nice. Very Happy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fPYYz3JHQY&feature=youtu.be

Mine, after the eyelet procedure is still running fine. Been enjoying it. Still would like a 7045 arm, though.

Gary7, send me your location address for a 7045 tonearm.

You have one for sale? How can I PM you?

Email sent.

audpulse, did you get my email?

Yes I did.Reply sent.

Thanks Ben.

Finally got a 7045 arm. Had to make an arm board as the original was drilled for the Kenwood arm at 220mm, the 7045 is at 230mm, spindle to pivot. I have been keeping an eye on ebay. Finally someone dropped a QL-10 for parts. Got the base with the arm board drilled for a 7045 & all feet, as mine was missing one original foot. I had to fabricate one. Will be here Tuesday. Made me happy. Only I wish I had dropped for the TT-101 he had,too. Had same issues mine had, but was 120V & that is rare.

Here are pics over on AK.http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/jvc-ql-10-luck-out.843651/#post-12117402

Wasn't me, but I know who it was.

Chakster, Is there any way to tighten up the rear couterweight shaft. Mine is drooping some.

pics

https://www.facebook.com/groups/179443202697475/

My arm’s grommet is not that bad. And I was afraid I might do more damage if I went further to try and dissemble it. I have a box of assorted rubber o-rings and found one just a little smaller in diameter than the grommet. I cut it and worked it into and around the front of the grommet to give it more support. Worked great, straightened out the shaft tube. Wish I could post a pic.

What I have now will do till I get more adventurous. Should be fine with the weight of carts I have. From that site, it seems the outer tube does screw onto the brass shaft. But the collar on the gimbal housing allows the brass to turn, so the outer tube won't screw out, or tighten down.  There are 2 tiny set screws bellow the collar that must hold the collar in place, but I'm kinda worried I'd strip them out.

As far as torque goes, my TT-101 has plenty. As stated in the service manual, the LED reads 33.33 in 3 seconds after the button is pushed. Which as stated in the SM it hits 0.6 secs after being pushed. I clean my record on it with wet brush before I vacuum on my Record Doctor. Every once in a while it will drop to 33.32 rpm. I also adjusted the the stop pot so it come to a dead stop. Very happy with it.

As I posted on your Audiokarma thread, 1st place to start is with the double sided PC board eyelits. Several have stated this is an issue with this table. Mine had the same speed fast issue. Though it took 3 tries with the eyelits with 3 separate speed issues ( running fast, intermittent cogging between 33.32 & 33.34 and stopping issue), it now runs as it should. If you don’t feel confident to try it, read as much as you can, get with a competent repair shop in your area and discus it. Probably can take care of the speed issues.