JVC tt-101 repair


Got a JVC QL-10 with a 120V TT-101. Speed is wonky. Sometimes plays fine, sometimes spins a 1000 RPM, somtimes runs forward & then backward. Could use some help.
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Finally got a 7045 arm. Had to make an arm board as the original was drilled for the Kenwood arm at 220mm, the 7045 is at 230mm, spindle to pivot. I have been keeping an eye on ebay. Finally someone dropped a QL-10 for parts. Got the base with the arm board drilled for a 7045 & all feet, as mine was missing one original foot. I had to fabricate one. Will be here Tuesday. Made me happy. Only I wish I had dropped for the TT-101 he had,too. Had same issues mine had, but was 120V & that is rare.
Congrats, nice tonearm
Upgraded mine to UA-7082 (long version) with sub weight. 

TT-101/QL-10 user here as well, nice read.

My unit has been recapped by the prior owner, but I also experience some speed issues (fast, etc) when the unit is cold in the wintertime.   Zero issues in summer, and only seen in winter if the man cave is 60ish deg F.  Once I fire up the heat for a bit issues are gone, runs perfect.    I may need to look at the solder rings at some point but for now, not worth tearing it apart.   They are wonderful sounding TT's.


Upgraded mine to UA-7082 (long version) with sub weight.


So if you had the 7045 before, how is the 7082 in comparison?  It's a bit of a heavy arm isn't it?

I’ve been using 3 Victor UA-7045 in the past with MM cartridges like Grace F-14, Victor X-1II, Audio-Technica AT20SLa, AT-ML170 and AT-ML180 mainly.

I think it’s time to try UA-7082, now i have even additional sub weight for heavier vintage MC carts (Victor MC-1 for example). This arm has slightly higher effective mass, but i don’t care. When i checked this arm with Sony XL-50 MM cartridge on Sony Headshell i was blown away by the quality. So the UA-7082 has replaced not only my UA-7045, but also Luxman TA-1 lightweight arm. Another reason is just desing of the long arms which i like a lot (and i have room for it on my PD-444 turntable, so why not? :).

I will always recommend Victor 7045/7082 tonearms for its amazing value and absolutely top quality, superb engineering. Practically they are great too! 7082 is more expensive.
Finally someone dropped a QL-10 for parts


Ahhhhahhh maybe TT101 with defect then you were the one to take it away from me on ebay a few days ago? :(

I had just noticed it but I did not have time to press the "buy it now" button that was sold.

I needed it for spare parts too
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Chakster, Is there any way to tighten up the rear couterweight shaft. Mine is drooping some.
You can replace the bubber part in that tube, but i've never tried to do it myself, my arm is fine. Anyway all information can be found online. Some people replaced the rubber washer and it wasn't complicated.   

 Is there any way to tighten up the rear couterweight shaft. Mine is drooping some.


the decoupling rubber is about to give way and must be replaced.

Watch this...


My arm’s grommet is not that bad. And I was afraid I might do more damage if I went further to try and dissemble it. I have a box of assorted rubber o-rings and found one just a little smaller in diameter than the grommet. I cut it and worked it into and around the front of the grommet to give it more support. Worked great, straightened out the shaft tube. Wish I could post a pic.
The easiest way is just to copy an url of a piture uploaded to facebook (or anywhere) by chosing this option with a right knob of your mouse, and post that link here.
 Its good to know that these tables can be repaired.

maybe it was true !!! It's not easy at all, they all have the same faults.
What I have now will do till I get more adventurous. Should be fine with the weight of carts I have. From that site, it seems the outer tube does screw onto the brass shaft. But the collar on the gimbal housing allows the brass to turn, so the outer tube won't screw out, or tighten down.  There are 2 tiny set screws bellow the collar that must hold the collar in place, but I'm kinda worried I'd strip them out.
But is it possible that the engine of my TT101 is without torque? The plate stops only to rest a finger!

The Technics Sp 10 mk2 is a tank in comparison!


@best-groove

Same with my both Luxman PD-444 turntables, there is no immediate stop like on Technics. Also the torque is not so high on start. But this is just another concept of the DD turntables. It has nothing to do with the fidelity or speed stability. Technics is just a monster of torque.  

 The plate stops only to rest a finger!
@chakster 

it's not like you say .... my TT101 engine has no torque at the start and not even when it has reached the standard speed ... in short, it never has torque; is enough a fan focused on the platter and stops.

I think that to understand well, each other it will be necessary to publish a video on youtube
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my TT101 engine has no torque at the start and not even when it has reached the standard speed ... in short, it never has torque; is enough a fan focused on the platter and stops.


Poll: Does yours TT101 runners have zero torque to stop as soon as you put a brush to clean the vinyl running?

I do not think!
I do not think!

The TT-101 has lots of torque,

I had a friend over and he wanted to see how hard he could press down on the spinning platter before the RPM display showed a change.

He kept pushing until finally I grabbed his hand because
I was worried damage might occur.

So plenty of torque yours has an issue.
@totem395 

many thanks for the explanation, I'm sure mine has very serious problems, but it was necessary to understand from the owner that has a fully functional TT-101.
Lack of torque may be a sign it needs calibration, which is not a big deal if you can find someone who knows how to do it.  Before that, though, the electrolytic capacitors should be evaluated and probably most of them need replacing.  Failure of the electronic braking is another sign of needing calibration.  (Of course, Chakster is among those who have chastised me for harping on the need to replace the old electrolytics, so...)
@lewm

A good repairer after having spent many hours at TT101 and having solved several problems, he gave up and gave it back to me; now I’m waiting for another good repairman who will do it dedicating a bit of time when he feels like it.

He is informed that he will not be able to ask for a lot of money in case of success because the expense can not exceed the value of the turntable used and he accepted very willingly because this will be a great challenge for him; it is a repairer who is one of the largest and most important reel to reel repairers in Italy.

If it fails then it will be impossible to repair it without dedicating dozens of dozens of hours on it.
As far as torque goes, my TT-101 has plenty. As stated in the service manual, the LED reads 33.33 in 3 seconds after the button is pushed. Which as stated in the SM it hits 0.6 secs after being pushed. I clean my record on it with wet brush before I vacuum on my Record Doctor. Every once in a while it will drop to 33.32 rpm. I also adjusted the the stop pot so it come to a dead stop. Very happy with it.
Hello group!
i just inherited a:

JVC QL-10 TT-101
Victor Company of Japan Ltd plinth,
120v 60hz.
And it has a Lustre GST-801 tonearm.

I plugged it in and it ran perfect for about 10 minutes (33.33)
After that, it just took off to over 60rpms and it won’t slow down.
it was my uncles, he bought it new in the 70s.
it hasn’t been use for many years.
anyone else had this problem?
Thank you.

anyone else had this problem?

In many we have had very very similar problems.
Someone has solved them, others (like me) are still working.

Look this...

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/vintage-dd-turntables-are-we-living-dangerously
As I posted on your Audiokarma thread, 1st place to start is with the double sided PC board eyelits. Several have stated this is an issue with this table. Mine had the same speed fast issue. Though it took 3 tries with the eyelits with 3 separate speed issues ( running fast, intermittent cogging between 33.32 & 33.34 and stopping issue), it now runs as it should. If you don’t feel confident to try it, read as much as you can, get with a competent repair shop in your area and discus it. Probably can take care of the speed issues.
Hi all, help me please.

tthe repairman who took charge of my TT101 found that the problem is with the hall sensors inside the engine that are dead
Who can help me find a pair of these sensors that are also compatible or sell me the engine even if it doesn't work?
Thanks to those who can help me.
@best-groove JP ordered a spare JVC off eBay for a needed sensor in my TT101 repair. Mine is almost complete and ready for Miami.
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@knollbrent 

do you think jp has some left over parts to sell to me or are you just saying this to demoralize me even more because I won’t be able to get them? :(



@best-groove I think parts are avail. Contact JP for more insight. 
@chakster  might know
Donor parts available for everyone if you know what you're looking for. I don't think there is a shop of parts for TT-101. You can transplant a part from donor turntable. 
I’m looking for some motor hall sensors ..... they’re those little 4 foot parts that look like bugs.....I only need a couple and then my problems will be over after 5 years.
Help me.

https://i.postimg.cc/B6tr384d/JVC-TT-101-statore-1.jpg






I’m looking for some motor hall sensors ..... they’re those little 4 foot parts that look like bugs.....I only need a couple and then my problems will be over after 5 years.
Help me.

https://i.postimg.cc/B6tr384d/JVC-TT-101-statore-1.jpg


@jpjones3318 Italy needs help