Hi Grannyring,
Did you try to use Duelund bypass capacitors for bypassing powers supply capacitors in electronic (amplifiers, pre-amplifiers, phono-stages)? Regards, Alex.
You can use the Duelund .01 uf bypass caps on smaller value high voltage caps in electronics coupling and output positions as well as speaker tweeter and midrange caps as large as 15uf etc.... I have used them in both with good results.
I have not tried the small Juputer caps in bypass positions.
Hi Grannyring, Thank you for advice. You are single person on Audiogon who answered my questions. Sorry. My English is not perfect. But I'm a new comer in Canada and English is my 4th language. Audio is my hobby during last 20 years. Jupiter capacitors in my phonostage are continuing to break in. The sound is still changing. It was a little bit thin. After that, it was too lush. Now it becoming slowly more neutral. When it settle done, I will decide if I need to add bypass capacitors or Jupiters without bypass are good enough. In any case I afraid to bypass 0.1uF capacitor (because it is before RIAA correction) and results can be unpredictable. If I need, I will bypass 1uF output capacitor.
Actually you can to try Duelund 16 AVG Cu-Sn wire for hook-up inside your speakers and as a speakers cable. In my system it works very good as speakers cable.
After adding the second pair of Jupiter Cu into my phonostage output, sound became more smooth and transparent by too polite and a little boring. So, I decided I have to add more bite, more hot pepper to the sound of my phonostage. I just ordered Duelund CAST Cu-Sn bypass capacitors...
grannyring Do you use Jupiter copper in a passive crossover acoustics or in an amplifier? Sorry for my bad English, I could not understand this by reading your discus discussion.
I use Jupiter capacitor in phonostage built by EAR 834p schematics (with some upgrades). The first pair
(left and right channel) of Jupiter
capacitors
I use between 1st and 2nd stages. The second pair I use between 3rd stage and output.
I will try to replace in passive crossover
my Audyn True Copper Max with Jupiter Cu. And I’ll look at the result. In this test, Jupiter Cu scored 1 more than Audyn Copper Max. http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
I don't have experience with Jupiter in crossovers. But I have experience with Jupiter Cu in electronics and with Duelund Cu-Sn Bypass in crossovers. It is just my IMHO. If you like sound of your system with Audyn True Copper Max, you can just add Duelund Cu-Sn Bypass. It will make sound more vivid and testy with more 3D soundstage. If you don't like your current sound OR you want more smooth sound with more polite upper midrange and more detailed lower midrange go for
Jupiter Cu upgrade.
Hi
alexberger Thank you for your opinion. I want to choose a capacitor for crossover that will give the best results for playing vocals. According to some people, Jupiter
Cu is very realistically reproduces vocals.
Yes, Audin is good, but he’s a bit boring for me. OK I’ll try to start a Duelund bypass capacitor. Bypass Silver (Ag) or bypass Tinned Copper (Cu) which one is better?
I have Bypass Tinned Copper. They sound very tonal reach, vivid and musical. I never tried Bypass Silver. But most of people like them a lot.
According Jeff: http://jeffsplace.me/wordpress/?p=12323 "
Now comparing the 0.01uF caps in context: The Sn-Cu sounds more vivid and colorful, with more emphasis on the first attack of a note in the upper mid-range (which aids things like melody & beat), the timbral textures sound a little more “real” to me, and more nuanced. They also “open up” the music in an intriguing way, and seem to amplify the “acoustic roughness” of music a little, which provides more emotional engagement. The Ag bypass caps sound smoother and less dramatic, are more elegant and softly nuanced, with a more laid back and distant presentation, a little bit like you’re listening from mid-hall instead of the front-hall like with the Sn-Cu."
I instaled Duelund Cu-Sn bypass capacitors into my phonostege, bypassing Jupiter 1uF output capacitors. Before that I did 3 days burn-in of Duelund Cu-Sn bypass capacitors in FryBaby2, Yes I got what I expected. Vivid guitar and piano strings and much more real cymbals. But I lost violins main tone. It was sound like an upper-midange dominated over a lower-midrange. I run FryBaby2 during 8 hours connected to phonostage input directly, bypassing SUT. FryBaby2 was working in lowest voltage MC mode. Phonostage was on, and amplifier was off. It gave a very significant improvement. It make sound better, more musical all-around and the lower-midrange become more rich in tone too. But still violin sounded a little too thin. Than I tried to change interconnect between phonostage and integrated amplifier from Acrotec 8n 2080 to Duelund DCA20 (with Duelund Cu RCA connectors) and DCA16 (Switchcraft RCA). Both Duelund interconnects made violin sound natural. So, pure Cu-Sn Duelund solution works the best!
I tried both and prefer the silver foil bypass caps. Combined with the Jupiter copper foil they are magic. Never thin or bright, but full bodied with amazing clarity and tone. This combo is my favorite on tweeters in crossovers also.
Dear friends: I'm looking for advise on caps for speaker's crossover.
I use or used V-caps ( not the Teflon ones. ) and Sonic Craft by-passed with Teflon V-caps.
In my all SS electronics I'm using Teflon V-caps and Teflon Cu V-caps and Sonic Craft Platinum too. All these works great.
Due that Teflon V-caps are expensive and that I need 16.8uf and 4.7uf plus 100uf I would like to know which one could be the best combination for a lower price and with quality performance nearer to the Teflon V-caps.
Love to help, but need more info. Please tell us the speaker in question and what you want to gain from the upgrade? What sound quality attributes are you wanting more of or less of? Thanks!
Dear @grannyring : My overall audio system/room target is to stay nearer/truer to the recording and my reference is live music but I’m far away from live music.
My speakers are a pair of old heavy tweaked ADS L2030 ( Silk dome tweeter/midrange and paper woofer. ) paired with two self powered Velodyne HGS-15 subwoofers wired in true stereo fashion. Crossover at around 80hz . The ADS crossover filter is made it directly at the 20.6 amps input due that these amps are coupled by input cap and here is where I’m using Teflon Cu V-caps along Vishay naked resistors.
I’m satisfied with what I have but you know I think that I can have even better quality level performance if I invest in better caps in the speakers crossover where everything is hard wired and seats externally to the speakers. I use pure silver ribbon inductors .
I’m not looking for a very specific atribute but " only " that puts me nearer to the recording.
Even that my system is full SS electronics does not sounds as traditional SS electronics none as tubes but more as music, recorded music with neutral tone and rhiytm along that " power/dynamics " that only live music can has. Truly emotional.
Dear @grannyring : Do you need additional information for I can get your expert advise?
Because I'm not a whealty person I can't go with Duelund or teflon V-caps but to something else you already know works really fine in that speaker crossover aplication.
I really don’t know that speaker at all. Looked st some online stuff on them, but not much available. Did you already mod them? Placed the crossover outboard?
Dear @grannyring : Yes " heavy " moded, here about:
ADS L 2030: This is a Full Range Professional Monitor that I own for many years.
These L 2030 was designed by Mike Kelly ( Aerial speakers ) and till today it match all my priorities.
It is " heavy " tweaked to do that: first it has " three hands " ( internally ) of a insulation/antivibrational treatment ( like a white paint. I can't remember the ingredients. ) from Acoustical Magic Company ( it works marvelous ) inside all the box ( a big one box: 58-5/8" ( H ) x 27-1/4" (W) x 13-1/8" (D) ).
It is internally hard wired with Silver Oval by Analysis Plus cable and KCAG by Kimber Kable.
I take out the crossover ( now is external ) and change all the parts: resistors ( Duelum. ), silver air core solid ribbon ( 5.5 cms. of pure silver. Almost 2kg. of silver in the biguest one. ) inductors , by-pass teflon caps, etc, etc, the speakers cables goes soldered directly to the crossover parts. This speaker crossover is hard-wired.
In reality are three separate/stand alone crossovers: one for the tweeter, one for the midrange and the other for the woofer, all these hard-wired directly to the amps ( no connectors. )
I'm only not biamp my system ( with the subs. ) but these ADS main/satellite speakers are true tri-wired in hard-wire directly to each crossover parts in the three way speaker design all the way down to the amplifier output.
I change the internal damping glass fiber by 10kg ( each one ) of long hair 100% virgin wool and change the fabric cloth of the grille for a " transparent one ".
These L 2030 have: One acoustic suspension 1" silk dome tweeter, one main acoustic suspension 2" silk dome midrange, three auxiliar acoustic suspension 2" silk dome midranges ( similar to the main midrange but with a less powerful magnet. ) and two long-excursion acoustic suspension ( sealed. ) paper 14" woofers.
These are exceptional drivers especially the tweeter/main midrange ones.
These ones was a spare tweeters from a Dalquihst DQM-9 that I owned and already sold.
These tweeters are 1" silk dome ( same efficiency that the front ones ) and are connected in phase with the front ones and works with his own crossover ( with by-pass Teflon cap. ) at around 7k and up and have, too, an off/on switch.
As I told you the high pass filter is made it inside each 20.6 ML monobloks.
Probably I can use the Sonicaps Platinum or perhaps Jupiter or something else but because I'm restricted on money I need your advise about.
Dear @grannyring : I think that step by step I will go for caps that I already know are really good as the Teflon Cu and/or Sonicap Platinum, first with the speaker tweeter crossover after that with the midrange one.
Now, I need advice on what cap is the best for the woofer 100 uf cap and the value of the cap to by-pass it.
Does a capacitor quality in the 2nd order speakers LPF make a big difference? If yes, Which producer and type can you recommend (I need 8uF)?
Do you like Jupiter VT?
Now and as I said it in that thread: WIMA caps is the industry standard and for very good reasons.
You can see the MKP 10 in almost any single audio electronics with units in the 400 hundred dollars and in the over 50K units. It's the manufacturesr/designer best choice.
Now, are so inexpensive that you lost nothing testing in your electronics and in your speaker crossover too. It's worth to do it and as I said are really cheap caps so you can't lost nothing and can have a very nice surprice and don't be " intimidated " for the humble Wima price against the boutique ones that in my today experiences can't performs better than the MKP 10.
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