How good is the Micro Seiki DDX-1000 Direct Drive turntable ?

EMT 938 is cute and i thought it’s the most compact EMT turntable.
Here is 948

@lewm The 927 is so expensive and rare I disregarded it as an option for emt. The 930 is regular size and sort of affordable as a possibility for an idler by emt.

@chakster 
Here’s the size;
938 19 3/4w X 17 1/2d
948 18w X 18 3/4 d
Where the 948 is larger is plinth is 6.5 height vs 4.5 for 938. The 948 is removable cards like 950 and 938 is built as one unit.

950 for sale on audio asylum. $8000 with phono built in and tonearm. Looks very fine. Floor-standing, so shipping from Singapore might be problematic.

I bought a used one in 1989 in a shop in Shizuoka. The"feet" were damaged. Paid 50,000 yen. It had the option to quartz lock. It came with 2 arms. I changed the mat to a hard one. 
It was my main player until I got a Rega Planar 3. The Rega was so much better I gave the Micro-Seki away. No regrets. 

@has2be @bimasta
Thank you for your posts above. I found them to be very thoughtful and informative, and I would love to pick your brain a bit on your experiences with the Micro Seiki DQX-1000. I'm fairly new to the hi-fi game and looking for a vintage project. I am a designer, and lover of all things Japanese, and when I first saw the Micro Seiki DQX-1000 my jaw dropped. It's gorgeous.
I currently own a modest Technics 1200 MK5 that I purchased in 2009. With the addition of a decent cartridge, Rega Brio and pair of B&W 606's I am very happy with my sound, but I know I am only at the very beginning of my hi-fi journey.
I am hoping that the DQX-1000, paired with high end tone arms and cartridges would elevate my sound far beyond what I am currently getting. 

Being New to the HiFi Game will bring you very enjoyable experiences.
These experiences can be a Two Edged Sword, when entering the world of Vintage Products, especially DD TT's with complexities such as  electronic circuits and obsolete parts.

l will not discourage, I am using TT's from the same era you are enthusiastic about.
I don't Trouble Shoot Electronics but I do have a access to very helpful individuals/friends that are adept and in the know of how to overcome complications on TT's from this era.

Complications with the Platter Bearing can also be discovered on TT's from this era.
Dry Bearing Housings are to found with no signs of a functioning lubricant.
No way of knowing if metal dust contaminant is contained in the Bearing Housing as a result of a bearing running dry. 
Side Ways movement can be discovered when finger pressure is applied to the Platter Spindle, which indicates a excessive wear on the Bearing Housing Internal Bushes.
A Side Ways movement detected can have adverse effect on the Rotation of the Platter and create a eccentric rotation / untrue axis,
resulting in fluctuations to Speed Stability, especially noticeable when Speed is measured on a independent Strobe Device 
Additionally if the cause the eccentric rotation is a Dry Run Bearing Housing, resulting in Bush Wear, if a Sintered Bronze Bush is used, there is the likelihood that the Metal Dust is abrading the Spindle and Possibly the Thrust Pad Interface.
The created dust can also seal the Pores in a Sintered Bronze Bush blocking any residual lubricant from freeing itself.     
Scribing has been seen on the Ball at the Spindle/Thrust Pad Interface.

A much more affordable Vintage TT can be acquired from this era.
It will be capable of offering a a great deal of pleasure and learning.

A Tonearm can be selected that can be carried forward to any future TT Ventures.

I have as affordable DD TT's in my collection Aurex SR 510.
I have a report on the usage of these TT's from a person whose views I thoroughly Trust that these have a Sonic that is a close resemblance to
a certain model of a Micro Seiki DD TT.

I can send on this review to the OP if it is of interest.

I have a DD TT undergoing a Bearing Rebuild at present due to excessive side ways movement I detected on the Spindle Housing.
On investigation of the Spindle Housing with the Spindle removed, 
a Golden Hue could be seen which was suspected as Sintered Bronze Bushing Dust.
Another DD TT of the same model that is with the engineer carrying out my bearing overhaul, has on investigation of the Platter Bearing Assembly shown a deep scribe in the ball at the base of the Spindle.

To get a image of what the Scribe looks like, VAS NY Inc has a report on his social media of his undertaking a repair on a similar condition.  
    

My above Post is intended as a Guidance and consideration for @illmatic to use during his investigations into choosing a Vintage Era DD TT.
I incorrectly referenced the OP.

Hey pindac, you painted a real picture of doom and gloom for anyone interested in vintage tables. I think spindle bearing problems are far more rare than you make it sound. I've been collecting vintage tables for years and have yet to have a table with a badly worn bearing. Sure, it can happen but it's not the norm.Well, the first vintage table that I got was a Pioneer PL-41 and it had the typical disintegrated thrust pad. Machined a new one from Delrin, added oil and spindown without the belt on was a full 3 minutes. The bronze sleeve bearing and the spindle shaft looked as new, zero wear.

BillWojo

For individuals collecting Vintage DD TT’s in the days when they were a
few Hundred $/£’s.
It was simple you paid your money and took your chances,
’come what may ’ attitudes prevailed.
A bad deal become a Project or Donor Model.

I have happily had this attitude in Halcyon Days with Garrard 401’s and more recently Lenco GL 75’s to keep in with affordable Idler Drives.

Never did I raise any issues, or express any concerns about any of the Brands being purchased.
They were bought as Punt’s and a model that functioned faultlessly was a real bonus.
I also have a collection of Vintage DD TT’s, these are more commonly being found at elevated costs for Models that are readily available.

The member ’ illmatic ’ has expressed a interest in a DD TT that is potentially going to cost $3000 +.
I feel safe in expressing on behalf of ’ illmatic ’ this purchase type
is not a Punt Purchase, it is not a take your chances ’ Come What May’ Venture

I make no apologies for offering ’ illmatic ’ a description to help with understanding known issues, and helping to increase the awareness.
The information made known is real, the evidence is from a personal experience, or reports from trusted sources.

I am all for the use of Vintage TT’s as Original, as well as taking them into the Modern Era with exchange materials utilised to give them new set of sails.
I promote this attitude in the Social Networks I belong to and when opportunities arise I can participate in.

Here is my Take on it,
Vintage Idler Drives,
benefit from a Bearing Overhaul, Strip Back, Clean and Lubrication, the Bearings are rarely discovered to be dry on a inspection, this would be a indicator why no noticeable Sideways Movement on a Platter Spindle is detected.
Lubrication has been in contact with Inner Face of the Bearing Housing Bush and the Spindle, creating a tight tolerance.
There is a good possibility the Parts used are within the same tolerances as designed / produced by the manufacturer.

Vintage DD TT’s
I own Eight Models from Four Brands.
One Model after initial inspection was sent onto a Overhaul Service and has undergone all Mechanical and Electrical Components Servicing.
The Chassis was quite deteriorated, I had this returned to me and I had a Custom Spray Paint Service address the finishing.

I have to date opened up and inspected Four Bearing Housings and all are arid dry on inspection, as said one has shown a Golden Hue in the Housing that is suspected Bronze Bush Dust.
I have reported findings in the past on another forum and other Vintage DD TT owners have reported back about their dry Bearing Housings, one had shown a internal housing image, and I felt confident I was viewing a Gold Hue in that image.

I don’t think Spindle Bearing Problems on Vintage DD TT’s are rare, there are dry housings being discovered.
I would like to think that when undiscovered and untreated, the damages that can be incurred within a Bearing Housing are rare.
As a lot of rotations are required in a dry condition to produce the levels of worse case deterioration being reported.

A alternative picture of Doom and Gloom,
A fairly new to the HiFi Game individual, directs their attention to Vinyl Replay.
They then become aware of a particular Brand of a respected Vintage
DD TT.
They buy one for a Few Thousand + $’s.
They are in a Honeymoon Period and Invest in a much respected Tonearm and Cartridge configuration.
As their experience grows with the set up in their possession,
they learn of a few critical interfaces that must be accurate, and with new acquired knowledge, follow up investigations show there are concerning issues being discovered.
When reaching out for guidance they soon learn they are in a area where limited support is at hand.
Where does one find a Trusted Service, Capable of Machining the required parts and overhauling the assemblies the parts will be required to be reinstated in to.
Where does a person find the EE with a intimate knowledge and trouble shooting skills to repair and overhaul the Electronics that are causing erratic functions.

Off Course one can develop new skills that incorporate the above to keep their dream TT functioning.

My advice, offered to a beginner, entering into the world of Vintage DD TT’s with a suggestion to begin with a TT that allows a ’ come what may ’ purchase is a valuable advice to a Beginner.

For others interested in this issue, you might want to see the thread started a few years ago by Halcro regarding problems with direct drive turntables of vintage origin. I wrote in that thread that virtually no vintage turntable is irreparable as regards electronic problems. Almost any problem can be fixed. In my own personal experience having owned two SP 10 Mark 2s, Denon DP 80, Kenwood LO7D (2 samples), Sp10mk3, Lenco L75, and Victor TT101, all benefitted from a simple electronic rehab, eg, replacement of electrolytic capacitors and calibration, and only one was a real electronic problem that is now solved, the TT101. All also benefited from renewing the bearing lubricant; I found no bearing wells that were bone dry, but I did it anyway. As to eccentric wear on the bearing sleeve, I don’t know why that should happen with a direct drive, as there is no side force on the platter during use. This is unlike a belt drive turntable, where I might expect some of that sort of wear, due to the side force. Anyway, if you buy a precision  electronic and mechanical device that is minimum 30 years old or more, usually more, you ought to expect to do some rehabilitation before you are able to get maximum performance out of it. I am sure the original manufacturers never dreamed that we would still be using their flag ship products this far into their future.

lewn
        Another good set of pointers for the Beginner and Non Initiated to the present world of Vintage TT's.

Any references to Vintage DD TT's from a few years past are referencing a TT that could be acquired at a very reasonable price.
The past few years has seen Ascending Prices at a rapid rate of increase.

A working SP10 Mk II in need of a bit of attention cosmetically could be found in 2016 in the UK for approx' £300 with a prudent search undertaken.
The same today will require close to a £1000 and not too often seen at this price.

TT's of this calibre and their known competitors are more commonly seen at a UK GBP Value of £1000 to £3000 with the £2000ish price becoming the common one seen.
To achieve this a Shipping and Import Duty might be incurred as well,
due to needing to search further afield to acquire one. 

A Japanese Vintage DD TT that has received a overhaul from a recognised and respected EE can easily be stretched to a asking price of GBP £2000, when sold by a private seller.
A commercial Interest will be asking above this price level.
I recently observed a  TTS 8000 with Tonearm and Cartridge just short of 
£7000. 

With the escalating prices a Beginner with little experience will need all the help they can acquire to help set them up with a good fundamental understanding of what a purchase can mean.
A Cup of Coffee and a Hour of ones time dedicated to Web Searches and learning about a TT that is on a wish list, will produce plenty of information as to what might be expected to be done to a Purchase to get the best from it.

I have even seen members of this forum, who are experienced in the Vintage TT field,  following the skills of members forums, that have created a thread that has shown a Recording of their attempts at
DIY Servicing Vintage Japanese DD TT's.

          

I had Lenco 78 with heavy plinth and SME 3009 tonearm.
I liked it more than Nottingham Spacedeck/Spasearm that I had too.
Lenco has better bass definition, texture and PRAT.
After that I bought EMT 948. EMT is much better than Lenco. EMT sound is more dynamic, clear and accurate.

I have a Speed Controller that has been built by the Designer.
When used on a Stock Lenco - Stock Lenco with Bearing Overhaul and PTP Solid 9 it provides a noticeable improvement to a performance.

My Speed Controller as good as it is, has been compared to Two other Speed Controllers.
The comparison was done on a friends System on a
Overhauled Lenco GL 75 mounted in a Heavy Plinth with a Overhauled SME 3009.
My Speed Controller was the least impressive in these comparisons.

All Three Speed Controllers had a much improved effect on the performance over the Direct Mains Power Supply. 
The owner of the System used on this occasion has Garrard 401's and
Vintage DD TT's, he is Wed to his Lenco's.
Since this comparison my friend has introduced a New Tonearm > Cartridge to be used with the GL 75's.

GL 75's can still be found today at very reasonable money, some buyers are getting on board with a project, some buyers are hoarding Lenco Idler Drives, what ever the reason to purchase, they are safe Punt Purchases. For a Beginner or Experienced Individual with a interest,
there is a lot of support available on how to take them beyond stock condition.
Platter/ Motor Bearing Overhauls, Complete Exchange Platter Bearings,
Redesigned Motor Drive assemblies, Chassis Modifications, Numerous Plinth Designs, through to complete Redesign PTP Kits using a Stock Lenco as a Donor for the parts.
The Idler Drive Lenco's are a wonderful place to begin a Journey into Vintage TT Ownership. 

Never had any issues with my vintage Direct Drive turntables, no matter Technic or Denon. Paid $1200 for MINT condition SP-10 mkII and used for about 7 years myself, sold for $1500 to a friend locally. Tried many SP-20 (all like new). Purchased Denon DP-80 in MINT condition (no problem). Using two Luxman PD-444, one of them has been serviced by previous user in Japan, another is original, no difference in sound! 

And yes, there is only one vintage DD turntable that must be serviced, it's Victor TT-101 (so we shipped to jp jones).  

If someone can't buy a perfectly working original unit in mint condition it's not the reason to say that all of them must be serviced. 

I have no problem with vintage DD turntables and this is MAIN reason I like them so much! 

The Beginner and Experienced, but ' Yet to be Initiated ' into the usage of Vintage TT's from either DD TT's or Idler Drive TT's can make a valuable assessment of how to proceed, if they are fortunate to dicover this thread during any investigation that is undertaken.

Different Individuals are having different experiences in how they view the condition of their TT's.
I have not identified the Brands of DD TT's that have had issues requiring attention from a supporting service after my inspections were undertaken.

From assessing reports being offered by other Posts, there is a overlap of Brands being referred to, this is a good thing, as it does mean commonly selected DD TT's are to be purchased with a condition that needs correcting.   

What is not known at present is how intensive and Intrusive the Inspections undertaken has been carried out by each individual.

My Purchases remain untouched as found, prior to any inspections.

I do not condone forcing a little oil down the Top entry point of the Spindle Bearing Housing to be a 'Long Term Fix all'.
As there are reports of Bearing Housings being discovered to be dry in reports across various forums.
A Flush Clean and Re-lubrication of a Bearing Housing is in my view the basic goal to be achieved.      

The Spindle is immediately checked for any noticeable Sideways Movement.
Spindles can lift in the Vertical Plain so this can be discovered on various Brands when removing a Platter, it should not be causing any concerns.

The TT's are initially inspected with a Off Board Strobe Speed Measure,
to help Identify if any thing is showing up with the TT's Speed.
Any obvious anomalies discovered with Speed, can mean a Mechanical or Electronics Issue.
I check the Brake Speed, as very noticeable variations in this can mean that there are underlying Electronic Concerns.
On the same Brands I have, the Stop Time has been almost a instant Stop,  through to taking Multiple Seconds, to come to a Stop. 
Once this is done the TT remains unused, awaiting further investigation. 
When time allows, the Bearing Housing is detached from the Chassis.
Followed by the removal of the Spindle and the Spindle Housing Thrust Pad Base Assembly of Parts.
A decision will be made if the TT is to be dealt with by myself or if it is to be made available to an Individual who has better Skill Sets than my own for fixing a Electronics or Bearing Issue.
As to Bearing Spindles a Interference Fitted Steel Ball at the Base can be removed if seen with damage and replaced with a Modern Material Ball or Original Steel Ball.
One might just want to exchange it for a Modern Material Ball to achieve the benefits to be gained from using the material.
The same as stated above,  can be said for the Thrust Pad.

For this interface, Spindle > Thrust Pad, I will suggest using materials that have a interface that generates a very Low - Coefficient of Friction.

Note: Separate all Plastic Parts if a Flushing Solution is to be used
that could cause Plastic to Deteriorate.
Only expose Plastic Parts to a Weak Detergent as a Flushing/Cleaning Solution.
It a Plastic Part is a Non Removable Part, the Flushing of Metal Part will be best carried out with the Weak Detergent.  

When the Spindle Housing inspected, if there are no Plastic Parts contained within it, the Shaft can be flushed Clean of all original Lubricant Residuals as the Minimum Treatment.
The Flushing Solution will need to removed and the Housing will need to dried. 
The Spindle can also be cleaned of the Staining that can seen on the Submerged Area.
Some will choose to Lap Clean the Spindle before considering reusing it.

When considering the Bushes within the Spindle Housing, there are a few options that can be used.
If they are Metal, ( Sintered/Phosphor Bronze they can remain in place and undergo the Flush Clean Treatment for the Shaft.

Another Option is to have a selection of Bushes ( Sintered / Phosphor Bronze ) ordered in and select a Bush with a Internal OD that has a improved Tolerance over the insitu Bush, in relation to the Spindle Diameter.
The Other and not so common option is to have a Bush made to Match the Spindle using a Modern Material that has properties that support a 
Low - Coefficient of Friction Function.

The TT's that I intend on using for the Longterm are undergoing the Support from a Individual, where the minimum Treatment is for a Replacement Spindle Ball > Thrust Pad > Bush using Modern Materials.
The TT's I own are all intended to have undergone a Bearing Housing Inspection and Servicing/ Overhaul whilst in my possession.

The above Inspections and Servicing / Modifications are not offered as a being a necessary requirement, they are just my record of how a Inspection can show a unwanted anomaly.
The Operations can be undertaken to any level of the above,
if a Individual has a interest in carrying out a extra activity around their owned Vintage TT's. 

I gave the go ahead last year to an Engineer,  for another individuals Bearing Overhaul Project to be prioritised over my own requested work.
This Overhaul has a proportion of the Work that I am requesting to be carried out.
I have in the Past Day been invited to listen to the Overhauled and Modified Vintage Japanese DD TT Bearing Housing Assembly as soon as the UK lifts the COVID Measures and allows for meetings within a home.

I can bring one of my Original Spec TT's of the same brand to carry out a comparison, as well as compare the TT's to the Engineers,
Electronics / Mechanical Modified SP10 Mk II. 

Reports of past experiences undertaken,  have shown, 
during Original Spec DD TT comparisons, that the Engineers SP10 Mk II is a very impressive and desirable TT to own.  
                 

Hi @sdrsdrsdr ,

Thank you for sharing your experience about DD EMT turntable in comparison to SP10 MK2 and Dennon 80.
I had discussion on these  forums and told about my and my friends expiriese how much better DD EMT 950, 948 compared to SP mk2, Garrad 401, Thorens 124, Sota, Nottingham, Lenco and other similar stuff.
But most of local audiophile who have zero experience with EMT turntables told be that SP mk2 is much better turntable.


Regards,
Alex. 

I had discussion on these forums and told about my and my friends expiriese how much better DD EMT 950, 948 compared to SP mk2, Garrad 401, Thorens 124, Sota, Nottingham, Lenco and other similar stuff.

Do you realize the price difference between top EMT and everything else in your list ?

Technics is not "similar stuff" if you put it next to Belt Drive turntables like Sota, Thorens or inder drive like Garrard, Lenco. Those are completely different turntables. Do you know what is Lenco (or Thorens) ? Look at the original Lenco before all the tweaks. How can you compare this to the Technics SP-10 mkII Direct Drive ???

But most of local audiophile who have zero experience with EMT turntables told be that SP mk2 is much better turntable.

SP-10 mkII drive cost $1500 in MINT condition, EPA-100 or EPA-100 mkII are much better tonearms than any EMT tonearm (designed mostly for EMT cartridges only).

When someone comparing the sound of the drive itself i’m getting sick.

Most likely they are comparing the sound of cartridge and tonearm, because to compare drives everything else must be identical.

EMT is definitely good broadcast turntable, huge and very expensive (overpriced to be correct). Nice for collection if you’re rich enough, but SP-10 mkII and EPA-100 are "best buy", superb quality for reasonable price. You can pay $20 000 more pretending for improvement, but it will not happen. Technics SP-10 mkII drive in a custom plinth with great tonearm will cost you less than $5000.

However, this is better. 

In my direct experience, the denon Dp80 was superior to the SP 10 Mark 2, as well. I’ve mentioned this several times in the past on this forum, so it must be getting pretty boring right now. And it’s only my opinion. It also goes without saying that there are several other vintage direct drive turntables that in the current marketplace will cost more than an SP 10 Mark 2 that are also sonically superior to it. But we are not talking about big differences here. All of these turntables are good.

Love the looks of the Seiki DDX-1000 table. It’s the same Zebra pattern that my Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar lens has from the 70’s.

I’m with @chakster on the vast range of asking prices for
Vintage DD TT’s.
Certain Brands of Idler Drive can demand a High Price as well.

A Idler Drive and DD TT are perceived with differences in their deliveries as is with a Belt Drive.
My experience is that the better thought out a TT’s Plinth as a design
and use of a Rack System that will have a effective control on Airborne and Mechanical resonances.
When a Off Board Speed Controller Design is used on a Idler Drive TT,
there is a increased attraction to the Performance that is being perceived.

I refer back to Idler Drive TT’s as there are certain Brands that are very affordable, and a great place for a Beginner or Experienced, but
’Yet to be Initiated’ to commence with a experience.
The support network Certain Brands are available with a immediate access, Forum Members offering speedy answers to requests for information and TT Parts that are available within these forums is superb.

As I am now Wed to DD TT’s, I feel the Idler Drive can begin to offer a delivery that moves toward the DD TT when the Idler Drive has the correct design of Speed Controller in use.

As for my own arrangements for experiences to be undertaken with TT Comparisons.
My Friend with the Idler Drive as his preference TT, has the same Tonearm > Headshell as myself.
This Tonearm Model has a detachable Headshell, using a Identical Cartridge during comparisons, is a easy to achieve operation.
We do have different Plinth Material and Mounting Rack Set Ups,
resulting in differences to the Arm Cartridge Set Up environment.

The Engineer Service used by Myself produces the above referred to Tonearm.
He takes his work very seriously and his knowledge of the Subject,
covers all the bases for a very accurate arrangement for a Audible Comparison.
Comparisons undertaken for the work carried out on TT’s,
is always assessed / compared using one of his Tonearms > Headshell of Choice and Platter Mat of choice.
Auditions will be undertaken with the Engineers Cartridge of Choice.
Visitors who use the Engineers Design of Tonearms, commonly all share the same Headshell as well.
Visitors are able to bring their own Headshell > Cartridge along for a
Side Comparison, as a break from the TT assessments.
The only added requirement being a VTA Tweak as and when required, and Tracking Weight Adjustment ’ if required ’ .
Cartridge Assessments like this have been very revealing and insightful.

One other bonus of being at the Engineers residence is that the TT’s have Mimicked Mounting Set Ups from Plinth Material used
and Mounting Rack.
A Decibel Metre is used to match Sound Levels for each performance.

When carrying out such assessments at the Engineers Residence,
the only additional requirement is that the Sweet Spot will be swapped as a seat, so that all attendees can get a time in the best seating as a experience of the Device under audition.

Again a Different Room, Different Plinth and Mounting Rack, with a Different System might change the outcome of my preferences for a TT.
That is the wonderment of Vinyl.

Hi @chakster ,

I had Lenco 78 turntable. My friend built me birch plywood plinth and I changed original tonearm to SME 3009 mk2. I also removed auto stop mechanics.
Lenco is a great turntable and best value for money. I liked Lenco much more that Nottingham Spacedeck/Spacearm that I had too. I used the same Ortofon Jubilee cartridge on both.

But EMT 948 that I have been using after Lenco is a completely different league.
And I don't agree that EMT much more expensive than SP10 mk2 or other Hi End vintage Japanese DD turntable or idle drive like Garrard.
My friend bought EMT 948 with tonearm and TSD15 SPH cartridge in perfect working conditions two year ago in LA and payed just $4200.
OK if you buy EMT from company which does restoration you will pay at least twice. But you will pay the same money if you buy from a similar company, for example, Garrard 301, 401.
I agree that EMT turntables are not good for customization. But I saw some people do custom arm boards for EMT and use other tonearms.

But my main point was that DD EMT are much better turntables vs Sp10mk2.
And dozen people who did comparation when SP10mk2 was with better tonearm (my friend use SP10mk2 with Fidelity Research RF-64 tonearm), better cartridge, better phono stage (EMT internal phonostage is a garbage) told the same.

Regards,
Alex.

The main problem with huge turntables like some of the EMT is their size and weight, you can’t buy them online. It’s extremely difficult, especially international transit.

Technics, Denon or Victor drives are compact and can be shipped anywhere (must be protected). They can be purchased online. One of the reason they are so popular worldwide. 

I wish I could buy this one, but it’s impossible to ship it.

Hi @chakster ,

Yes it is true.
The issue is not just shipping price. Most of sellers don't pack turntables properly.
I bought EMT948 from Germany in 2011 when I was living in Israel.
The shipping price wasn't too expensive but I also payed taxes.
The main issue was how the seller packed it.
The seller didn't tighten the transportation screws (yes EMT 948 has the transportation screws!)   
He even didn't disassemble tonearm counterweight! The package carton box wasn't good enough too.
So I got: broken tonearm, bent motor axle, and bent corners of the turntable upper panel.
In the end I send the tonearm to Hans Fabritius to Germany and he fixed it.
I fixed the motor axle. But after one year I decided to buy a NOS motor from Fabritius.
What is good there are people in Germany like  Hans Fabritius and Hans-Ludwig Dusch who give support for EMT turntables. They can fix control and phonostage boards and sell NOS or used parts.

Regards,
Alex.

Chak, THAT in the photo looks pristine but it's a Denon, not an EMT.  If being sold by a reputable dealer in Japan, I would not be concerned about packing and shipping.  Those guys know what they are doing when it comes to packing a turntable and then how to ship.  I was just thinking the other day that if I love the DP80 so much in terms of bang for the buck, what would a DP100 sound like?  I'm definitely curious.

@pindac Thank you for your thorough response. I truly understand the complexities and risks that come with buying vintage mechanical equipment, and have spoken with a repair team based in Los Angeles with expertise on Micro Seiki tables: ’George Meyer A/V’ and they will be the first to see the table and get it up to original working condition.
To add another level of complexity, I have been finding more TTs in the EU secondary markets and wondering if you have any experience with vintage tables that will need the voltage transformed from 220v/50hz to 120v/60hz?
Thank you.

@illmatic 
                Thank you for your reply, I was just trying to be helpful and add to a overview of the considerations to be aware of, when entering into the usage of Bought in Vintage TT's.

I am pleased you are in touch with a Service that can resolve any issues that could be discovered during a Inspection.
            
I am due to see my Engineer Friend Very Soon.
If you would like to PM to me Models you are interested in, 
I will run your enquiry by him.
I am certain I have picked up on talk of converting 100 Volt motors to a 240 Motor on forums.
I even think my friend with the GL 75 has done this to a Japanese DD.
I recall him commenting on a DD TT, I took to his home.
I have not chose to do this or investigate in any serious manner,
in the case of my Import TT's, I remain with a Original Specification,
I use a Step Down Transformer. 
I there was knowledge being put forward that a Exchange to a Countries Voltage has noticeable benefits, I would not hesitate to swap a Motor and A/B Compare.

As to importing and shipping, I have received TT's with Damages,
in general ones that are petty but not easy to remediate.
A broken and damaged hinge and fascia plate on a Sony TTS, it was not evident in a photo.
One that was looking pristine in the Sale Images, was damaged to the point, where I was not willing to accept the damage seen.
The Under Platter Strobe Disc was smashed, it was heard rattling when first removing from shipping packaging.
After supplying evidence of the Damage to the Buying Service,
I was able to make a Compensation Claim on the model through the buying service negotiating a proportion of a refund from the Vendor.
I had to search for a very long time to find a Donor Replacement Part.

The refund offer is not a guaranteed outcome to a be achieved for a Buyer.
The Japanese are quite happily to advertise a reasonably intact looking TT as 'Junk'.
There will be little support if the small print is overlooked on the Sale Advert. 

The same experience has been had by myself with Tonearms purchased to be shipped as well. 
Images look fine, on arrival Parts Taped on to Tonearm or found loose in the packaging. 
I have had to accept the damages and purchase other Arms to become Donor Models.   

THAT in the photo looks pristine but it’s a Denon, not an EMT.

Denon DP-100M is what I want.

http://www.thevintageknob.org/denon-DP-100M.html

I know very well what it is, thanks.I guess you know there is one on USA eBay right now for $23,000, coming from one of the known Japanese sellers, or perhaps he’s in Hong Kong.

He’s not Japanese. I bought from Alex Tan before, my SP-10 mkII was from his vault. Just like another member of this forum, Alex (who’s not a member) often selling refurbished cartridges without even mentioning they are refurbished, so I don’t trust anymore (it was long time ago).

Realistic price is under $10k, but only in Japan. Not my price category anyway. 

I don't know if this Thread is the Best Place to discover the Link.

My recent posts on this Thread touch base with some of the information to be found in the Posts within the Link.
If the Syringe Method is a actual working method for Cleaning the  Bearing Housing Sintered Bronze Bushes Pores, then this is a great tip, 
and a new one to me.
I have only seen Sintered Bronze Bushes treated as a submerged part  with a Electric Vacuum Pump producing the Vacuum and releasing the Blockages of the Pores in the Metal.   
 
https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=37812.0;topicseen

Just so I can enter the contest, my Lenco is seated in a 65-lb slate plinth.  The Lenco bearing is long gone, replaced by a massive aftermarket bearing made by someone called Jeremy in the UK.  The platter has been spray painted with a dampening material.  The Lenco tonearm is a piece of history along with the original plinth.  Currently using a Dynavector DV505.  The motor is driven by a Phoenix Engineering Eagle power supply that is speed-regulated by a PE Roadrunner tachometer.  The only Lenco parts are the modified platter, the idler wheel, which I prefer to the various aftermarket idler wheels for its lighter mass, the idler arm, and the motor itself.  All those Lenco parts came from an NOS OEM Lenco L75 that I was able to source from Canada in its original box unopened, for $500.  Just because my total investment in this kit is probably less than the cost of a refurbished EMT DD or idler does not convince me it is not as good as or maybe better than some of those EMT options.  But I am in no position to make such a claim, not having heard an EMT.  What I wonder about is the EMT tonearm and the built-in phono stage, which was early era transistor technology.  The Lenco drives a Manley Steelhead, with slight mods by me.

@lewm 
            Thank You for sharing on this thread your Vintage TT Project and your confidence in the Design Produced.
Your Base Price of Canadian/ US $500 , is in keeping with my suggestions that Beginner entering into Vintage TT's will be best served by spending time with a TT that is a Lenco Model.
A very safe purchase at a affordable asking price, that punches way above what is expected.
Add modifications and it becomes a Contender to many other Hi End TT's.
The Lenco Variants of the original TT, are regularly seen as a Source at the Prominent Hi End HiFi shows in Europe. 

EMT 950/948 phonostage sounds very even, neutrar, fast.
But the sound is very rough. Me and my friends prefer EMT with external tube phonostages by a big margin. I know Fabritius sells EMT phonostge board with modern better op-amps.
EMT tonearm is not bad. But it built for EMT TSD15 cartridge. You can can buy headshell for it, but the cartridge should be very short to match the right geometry.

I think the Lenco is the best turntable in therm of design. It is so quiet!
It is unbelievable how it was possible to design such not expensive, quit and accurate mechanics.

Regards,
Alex.

I tripped over  this discussion so please excuse the indulgence. I have a DDX-1000 and I can shake water glasses with bass, jump up and down on the floor with absolutely no audible effect passed through the stylus in the way of skips or feedback. Standing wave onset in a room is the clear enemy. Nothing has loosened or flexed. The rpm accuracy is great and structure is substantial. The clamp-up for the tone arm, leveling bubble etc is akin to a motorcycle front fork, if the truth be told. The 40 year old oil filled structural support dampers being shot on mine  were replaced  with an alternative elastomer, as most people do. I tend to mount this kind of instrument off the wall on an isolated platform, especially the way they build homes these days. I believe I could locate the sub directly under the thing firing sound amo upwards and it would likely still not skip a beat with the dainty SME tonearm at 1.5 grams, thanks to the sheer mass of assembly. The rigid machined platter may seem light but instead of relying on rotating mass for rpm assist stability, it relies extensively on motor control. The thick rubber mat is precision recessed in the platter onto a bonded composite base rather than laying flat on a platter surface.The frequencies this TT is capable of reproducing will certainly exceed those of us lucky enough to party through the 70s and 80s and still hear a fairly wide frequency bandwidth today. Some of the average and higher quality antique stuff is better spec'd than what the modern crayon eating MP3/retro consumer now has available as new. With expensive things the theory of diminishing returns takes over, and unfortunately more often than not, to the extent than any advantage is reasoned and perceived in one's own mind rather than ears. A reasonable hobbyist  would not turn down the chance to acquire a DDX-1000 and hopefully install it correctly. Once we label ourselves an audiofile all bets are off, with CDF happily and willingly thrown out the window. Think what you want I like this thing and it is far better than I deserve.

Meantime, where is our friend Chakster?

I have a chance to buy a Luxman PD-444 in excellent condition with one problem which is the brake is not working. Does anyone know if it is an easy fix or if it does affect the turntable performance?

Thank you in advance,

Calvin

If it’s a mechanical problem and all else is working perfectly I wouldn’t worry. But you’ll have to stop the platter by hand until you fix the brake mechanism obviously. If it’s electronic the TT may need to be calibrated. That also is no big deal if you have someone qualified to do it. Check speed and speed stability under load.

How do we test if it is a mechanical problem or electrical problem

Cleeds, on the Kenwood L07D, the SP10 Mk3, and the Denon DP80, the respective brakes are actuated electronically, when you press the off switch, but the brake itself is mechanical; pads push against the spindle or platter to bring it to a halt. An electronic problem would mean the brake pads are not actuated. A mechanical problem would mean the pads are worn out or don’t move far enough to stop the platter. I’ve not played with a Luxman.

@chakster 

Since you own 2 Luxman PD-444, please let me know what your thinking

Chakster hasn't been on here in quite some time.

 

BillWojo

I think Chak’s last post was around February, 2021. Since then he is off this grid.

I repeat, Dang, you are best off to check the speed accuracy unloaded and under load (with cartridge engaged on an LP).  If speed is stable, brakes can be repaired.  If the brake does work but does not bring the platter to an immediate stop, that may indicate a need to re-calibrate the servo. Again, most good techs can re-calibrate.

Thanks Lew,

I will find a way to check the speed while the lp is playing.

Daer @dangcaonguyen  : The schematic in this link can helps you or helps to your technician:

 

https://www.vinylengine.com/library/luxman/pd-444.shtml

 

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,

R.

Thanks @rauliruegas Raul for the link.

Also, does anyone knows how long does it take for the speed to lock in after switched? Mine is taking a few seconds for the light to stop blinking. Is it normal?

 

Probably ok. It needs time to sample the speed before indicating that speed is stable by ceasing to blink. 

@lewm 

Thanks Lew,

I feel safe now. I was afraid that the electronic brake failure affects the speed stability of the turntable.