Probably ok. It needs time to sample the speed before indicating that speed is stable by ceasing to blink.
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I think Chak’s last post was around February, 2021. Since then he is off this grid.
I repeat, Dang, you are best off to check the speed accuracy unloaded and under load (with cartridge engaged on an LP). If speed is stable, brakes can be repaired. If the brake does work but does not bring the platter to an immediate stop, that may indicate a need to re-calibrate the servo. Again, most good techs can re-calibrate.
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Cleeds, on the Kenwood L07D, the SP10 Mk3, and the Denon DP80, the respective brakes are actuated electronically, when you press the off switch, but the brake itself is mechanical; pads push against the spindle or platter to bring it to a halt. An electronic problem would mean the brake pads are not actuated. A mechanical problem would mean the pads are worn out or don’t move far enough to stop the platter. I’ve not played with a Luxman.
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If it’s a mechanical problem and all else is working perfectly I wouldn’t worry. But you’ll have to stop the platter by hand until you fix the brake mechanism obviously. If it’s electronic the TT may need to be calibrated. That also is no big deal if you have someone qualified to do it. Check speed and speed stability under load.
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Meantime, where is our friend Chakster?
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Just so I can enter the contest, my Lenco is seated in a 65-lb slate plinth. The Lenco bearing is long gone, replaced by a massive aftermarket bearing made by someone called Jeremy in the UK. The platter has been spray painted with a dampening material. The Lenco tonearm is a piece of history along with the original plinth. Currently using a Dynavector DV505. The motor is driven by a Phoenix Engineering Eagle power supply that is speed-regulated by a PE Roadrunner tachometer. The only Lenco parts are the modified platter, the idler wheel, which I prefer to the various aftermarket idler wheels for its lighter mass, the idler arm, and the motor itself. All those Lenco parts came from an NOS OEM Lenco L75 that I was able to source from Canada in its original box unopened, for $500. Just because my total investment in this kit is probably less than the cost of a refurbished EMT DD or idler does not convince me it is not as good as or maybe better than some of those EMT options. But I am in no position to make such a claim, not having heard an EMT. What I wonder about is the EMT tonearm and the built-in phono stage, which was early era transistor technology. The Lenco drives a Manley Steelhead, with slight mods by me.
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I know very well what it is, thanks.I guess you know there is one on USA eBay right now for $23,000, coming from one of the known Japanese sellers, or perhaps he’s in Hong Kong. |
Chak, THAT in the photo looks pristine but it's a Denon, not an EMT. If being sold by a reputable dealer in Japan, I would not be concerned about packing and shipping. Those guys know what they are doing when it comes to packing a turntable and then how to ship. I was just thinking the other day that if I love the DP80 so much in terms of bang for the buck, what would a DP100 sound like? I'm definitely curious.
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In my direct experience, the denon Dp80 was superior to the SP 10 Mark 2, as well. I’ve mentioned this several times in the past on this forum, so it must be getting pretty boring right now. And it’s only my opinion. It also goes without saying that there are several other vintage direct drive turntables that in the current marketplace will cost more than an SP 10 Mark 2 that are also sonically superior to it. But we are not talking about big differences here. All of these turntables are good. |
For others interested in this issue, you might want to see the thread started a few years ago by Halcro regarding problems with direct drive turntables of vintage origin. I wrote in that thread that virtually no vintage turntable is irreparable as regards electronic problems. Almost any problem can be fixed. In my own personal experience having owned two SP 10 Mark 2s, Denon DP 80, Kenwood LO7D (2 samples), Sp10mk3, Lenco L75, and Victor TT101, all benefitted from a simple electronic rehab, eg, replacement of electrolytic capacitors and calibration, and only one was a real electronic problem that is now solved, the TT101. All also benefited from renewing the bearing lubricant; I found no bearing wells that were bone dry, but I did it anyway. As to eccentric wear on the bearing sleeve, I don’t know why that should happen with a direct drive, as there is no side force on the platter during use. This is unlike a belt drive turntable, where I might expect some of that sort of wear, due to the side force. Anyway, if you buy a precision electronic and mechanical device that is minimum 30 years old or more, usually more, you ought to expect to do some rehabilitation before you are able to get maximum performance out of it. I am sure the original manufacturers never dreamed that we would still be using their flag ship products this far into their future. |
950 for sale on audio asylum. $8000 with phono built in and tonearm. Looks very fine. Floor-standing, so shipping from Singapore might be problematic. |
Thanks for your input from a person who actually listens to EMT turntables. You mentioned the 930, but it is unclear to me what you meant by your statement. Surely, the 927 is the best idler drive that EMT ever made, and some would say it’s up there with the best turntables ever made. I gather the 930 is a cousin to the 927. Yes? |
From what I've read (because I have never actually heard any EMT turntable), the ones to own are first and foremost the 927 (see the thread started by Thuchan) and the 950. The former is a massive idler drive; the latter is direct-drive. The 927 usually needs an extensive restoration if not already done and is very expensive, either restored or original. There are only a few guys competent to do it justice. Probably the same applies to the 950, but perhaps it is cheaper to restore; it is certainly cheaper to buy. I've never read any rave review of the 938.
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Others made the point that attaching the arm board to an outboard footer, as was done in some M-S belt drives, is not a good idea, because any energy delivered into the footer will make its way up into the tonearm. I think that's a good point of criticism, but I have never owned any turntable built that way. On the other hand, I respect Steve Dobbins very highly. You can see that his arm board is really attached to the plinth, with a considerable amount of material between the arm board and the foot, such that the armboard is only subject to the same vibrations that also would affect the bearing/platter. So perhaps he has foreseen the problem and taken steps to ameliorate it. The arm board on the Verdier is very problematic, IMO. But I cannot deny that the Verdier and M-S approach is convenient in many ways, as it allows for easy P2S adjustment. I just don't think its structurally optimal. If you want to try out a turntable built that way, maybe you can find a DQX1000, or better yet a DQX1500. Those are theoretically "better direct drives from Micro". Especially DQX1500.
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Chak, You're right about the subject is not dust covers. My bad, but I didn't want to leave Mijostyn's comment in its unvarnished form. There are two sides to it. On the DDX-1000, I think you made the right decision.
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You do what you do, and I will do what I do. I just wanted to present both sides of the story. I haven’t change my opinion, which is based on real world experience. And I’m sure you feel the same way.
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Dust covers are a strict nono for use during play. They’re fine for protection against dust when one is not listening to vinyl. They don’t protect against airborne vibration, rather, they amplify airborne vibration by vibrating themselves and then re-radiating the energy into the closed chamber where the LP is playing.
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The DQX models featured quartz referenced speed control. That’s an upgrade vs DDX.
The tonearms mount essentially on the footers, as in some other MS designs. That’s not good for isolation.
The platter is very light weight compared to others of the era.
Looks cool but not my cup of DD.
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