Help, Frustrated with Horn output

Update-Just replaced the negative wire leading from the the terminal to the diaphragm and pow it works (for now) only time will tell.

Great input, been trying recommendations.

So far still having same issue however I removed driver from the horn then opened it to get to diaphragm. Tested with ohm meter at 6.9, in the process noticed a suspicious factory connection to the female spade terminal.

Crimped over the insulation of wire! Did a continuity test got shaky when I twisted wire. Going out now to buy replacement wire, spade and o ring to replace the wire and terminals. Will update after i install. Keeping my fingers crossed.

This model looks like it has potentiometers to adjust the high frequency level. My first thought are that the pots are dirty or corroded. Try some contact cleaner on them and run them back and forth a number of times. If really bad, they may need replacement. 

OP:

By the way, not sure if this would help you, but you can use Dayton DATS to fully chart the impedance of your speaker. If you can compare one side to the other, or have a published impedance curve you can use it to fully diagnose the speaker and crossover.

Another diagnostic approach is to swap components L to R and see when the problem moves with the swap.

Best,

Erik

OP:  So does this happen only on one side? 

You can try the battery test. Connect a 9v ( what I use ) ( or an AA, C, or D battery straight to the tweeter, bypassing the crossover, and see if it stays on. This will tell you if it is or not the tweeter. My best, MrD.

Sounds like an intermittent issue.  Dirty contacts, loose wires, etc.

Ah, one of the few speakers that I owned which I wish I’d never sold. Just physically too big for my room. :-(

Based on your experience already and the age of the speakers I’d guess that it is probably time to have someone familiar with these speakers  rebuild your cross overs. I think it would be worth doing.

Good luck.