Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling

So it's still making the buzz, and I turned off my Chord Hugo TT2 right away, and so it doesn't seem to be the source, nor can I replicate the sound through the TT2's headphone jack.

The buzz is also a lot quieter, so much so that I could barely hear it from the Tekton Lore Reference speakers, and it's just a bit there on my Audeze LCD-3.

But biggest thing I found is that it's only coming out of the left channel. I thought it was both, but I flipped the headphones around, and it certainly traveled with the left ear cup!

@jambaj - since...

• the sound is still there even with the Morrow PC AND 
• since it appears to be intermittent AND
•  since changing the tubes did not fix the noise

I am starting to think that some other internal component, like a capacitor, is starting to fail perhaps?

I think because of the symptoms you have described and the remedial actions you have taken so far we can rule out both power cables and tubes as being the cause of the noise

@williewonka it doesn't sound like either hums. Doesn't really sound like an electrical hum/buzz nor does it stay in one frequency

If the frequency is varying , could it be a source component causing the issue?

• does it still make the noise with all sources disconnected?

Also - How old is the  Cayin HA-300

Regards - Steve

Is the Auduble Hum coming from Both Channels with an even volume,
or is a Single Channel Audible Hum ?

Ear to the Speaker time i'm afraid, to investigate this one. 

@williewonka last night I've also reseated the tubes, as well as swapped out all the tubes except for the reissue Western Electric 300b tubes because I ran out of time. Didn't change a thing. 

@williewonka it doesn't sound like either hums. Doesn't really sound like an electrical hum/buzz nor doed it stay in one frequency 

The hum is still there with the Morrow Audio MAP3 power cable. I've swapped out all the tubes, except the new issue Western Electric 300b tubes since I ran out of time.

This morning, I didnt get a noise for a good half hour, then it came back. This is on the old power cable. Sigh. I'm out if the house for the day, so I can't test things out anymore until tonight 

What Happens to the Audible Hum when the Morrow Audio MAP3 is put back into service ?

Here's a video of one of the tube related issues

Two Types of Tube Amplifier Hum and How to Determine the Source - YouTube

Regards

@jambaj I have read about (and observed on YouTube) noises (i.e. hum) that do not change volume when the volume control is adjusted on tube gear. It can be due to the design of a specific brand of tube.

It is related to the actual "design" of the plates and heater within the tube. Sometimes changing the tube to another brand will fix this situation.

Unfortunately there is no way of knowing which brands will work

So far I have only heard of one other incident from an Audiogon member where a hum was observed on a tube power amp after installing a Helix power cable. But that amp had a lot of tubes, so trying to debug the issue proved to be a challenge, so the member just used his previous cable

Can you try

1. reseating the tubes
2. switching the tubes around

Do you have any different brands of tubes you can try?

I would try the old cable again - if the noise is still there then it might be due to a tube that is close to failing?

BUT - Why did this happen with the Helix Cable?

Unfortunately, component designers can push their designs very close to a "limit" to squeeze out every ounce of performance

• they do not know what components and cables you will be using with their product
• so changing something as simple as a power cable can cause issues. 

I have experience component failure once before after a braided power cable was used with it

• the root cause of that failure was in fact the speaker cables being used - not the power cable
• the new power cable allowed the amp to work more efficiently, which caused it to exceed a "threshold" and the amp failed
• once the speaker cables were changed the amp worked perfectly with the new power cable

Keep us posted on your progress

Regards - Steve

But it has been all the way to this afternoon when I listened to it before I went running. Then I didn't listened to my system until after I ate dinner and took a shower, and that's when the problem started.
Nothing was physically touched on my system other than the power button and volume, and no other new devices were plugged in.
Not the mention, my amp and Chord Hugo TT2 DAC are plugged into a PS Audio Power Plant 3 Ac regenerator.

@jambaj0e

Test it with a cheater plug and see if the noise goes away.

So I just bought a newly-made helix power cable from one of the guys on Tube Owners Facebook group (I think he's on this forum too) for my Cayin HA-300. Previous power cable is a Morrow Audio MAP3.

It seems to be fine for the last 2 days, but today I'm hearing a strange high-pitch static hum, kind of a buzz hum at times when no music is playing. It's not affecting my VU meter, nor does it change in volume or goes away when I put the volume down to zero. I haven't heard this before, especially on my previous cable. What can be causing this?

The name of OCC is given the name of the Professor Atsumi Ohno who discovered the Manufacture Process, where a Long Crystal was produced with the Wire.

I would assume if a Wire is produced with a Crystal Structure that is within the dimension that is outlined in the criteria for a Wire to be called OCC, there might be some ground for a challenge to be made.

There might be Wires Produced today that have a Long Crystal that is outside of the original OCC Specification, but when compared to a OFC Crystal qualifies as a comparison for it to be to be called OCC without too much risk of being challenged, especially if produced outside of the juristiction of the Patents.

Out of Interest, are the Five Patents known to have a end product of a produced wire ? and I wonder who the additional producers might have been.      

UPDATE: regarding  Balanced Symetrical Amplifiers

A few weeks ago I posted some updates to my web site identifying some amps that would not sound their best if a regular Helix cable were used with them.

I have now posted an adaption to the helix design that should work very well with these amps

Please see this link for the details if interested
http://www.image99.net/blog/files/b4dd81de6d4c72aa5052e5692987a506-81.html.

This approach could be used with amps that employ a single ended design also if desired...

• takes a bit more fabrication effort
• but the wire may end up costing a little less

At present, this is just in the design stage, but a fellow Agoner will be trying this approach to see how it performs compared to a conventional speaker cable

Stay tuned :-)

Regards - Steve

The last of the five Ohno Continuous Casting patents was issued in 1991, so these patents are all expired and anyone can make this product without license. I don't know whether there are trademarks on the name though, which could survive well past the patents. 

The OCC process is fairly costly, particularly with higher gauge materials, since the length of wire that can be produced at one time is much shorter. It's hard to believe that all the product we see on the market that claims to be OCC, really is. I don't know how this could be verified, other than by the reputation of the producer.

PC OCC (Purity Copper - Ohno Continuous Casting) is a Japanese design for a Wire and has been produced under a Patent and known as the name PC OCC.
This Wire is no longer produced by Furukawa and is maily offered by Furutech who purchsed most of the final stock.

UP OCC ( Ultra Pure - Ohno Continiuous Casting )
Is made under the same Patent but is from another juristiction as the Furukawa produced Cable.
UP-OCC has not been stopped as a manufactured wire, but has been upgraded as a design to be UP-OCC a  (Alpha)
This is a cryogenic treated version that Furutech have become involved with.

Furukawa today offer PC Triple C as the replacement wire for PC OCC and the crystal structure is different in the Triple C.
It seems to work well wit Nano Treatment as to Cryo Treatment.

D.U.C.C
Is the purist of the modern wires, it is very different in the crystal structure to PC OCC, through the Crystal alignment, which are even more aligned by a In House Treatment which is referred to as 'Stress Free'

@diertiti - UP-OCC is a process and to be able to use that particular "code" i would have to guess that it is very tightly controlled and therefore the quality is consistent across all brands.

I would also like to think that Parts Connecxion also has protocols in place when sourcing their products which would ensure product quality.

You could try calling Parts Connecxion and see if they can put your mind at rest

But - If you are concerned about the quality you should buy the Neotech wire

I have not tried it, but there may be others that have

Sorry I could not be more helpful

Thanks for all the answers gents. @williewonka I'm on the cusp of ordering but not sure if the Parts Connexion nake UP-OCC would be up to the quality of the Neotech, have they been pretty much comparable to the sonics of the stripped Neotech?

@mawe - try Parts Conenxion for "naked" UP-OCC

https://www.partsconnexion.com/occ6n-copper-hook-up-wire.html.

They carry most gauges suited to the Helix Cables

But I am still not certain whether the "Air" adaption on the neutral is worth the effort

Regards - Steve

@ divertiti

I have done the „outer“ coil as „airadotption“ using a 6mm Teflon tube on a 1.5sqmm wire on some power cords.
For further protection I did use an additional 10mm PVC tube over the Teflon tube, (PC at 230V).
It was easy to slide the wire into the PTFE tube, but the PVC tube had been a bit more difficult, but worked.
I used to twist the 2 outer wires (2x 15 AWG) together by hand at the same time.

The PTFE tube needs to be longer as the wire, as it shortens after  twisting.
However, I‘m not sure if it is worse the extra work. My concern is, stripping the insulation may damage (cut) the OCC wire and this may „eliminate“ some of the benefits. If one could get the OCC wire naked, I would probably do the Air-Adaption.

@divertiti - RE:

One thing I’m unclear on is how to coil the 16ga neutral if it is being created using the air tube method? If the bare wire is free floating inside the tube, how do you coil it with the drill?

I’ve never made and "Air" neutral.

Personally for me, it poses too much of a problem inserting such a long wire into the teflon tube

The signal wire on my 9ft speaker cables took some effort inserting the wire

1. the wire needs to be as straight as possible
2. the tube has to be held as straight as possible

To coil it with a drill I would probably

1. cut the wire 2-3 inched longer than the tube
2. first tape the wire to the rod and then tape the tube to the rod
3. then wind as normal

I would select a tube that is just a little bigger than a single strand fo bare wire

RE: -

has there been a consensus on which sounds better:
1. Putting two bare UPOCC conductors in a twisted pair inside a single PTFE tube
or
2. Insert each bare UPOCC conductor into its own PTFE tube first then twist the two tubed run into a twisted pair?

Electrons have a propensity to stay within the physical boundary of each strand of wire and only "jumps" to another strand if the amount of energy being transferred exceeds the "capacity" of that strand (or a faster route to ground is provided).

The signal in Interconnects is "low energy" and using 2 x 18 gauge wire would probably result in very few electrons making the jump between the two strands.

For speaker and power cables I use a separate tube for each wire

For Interconnects I simply twist the wires together first and insert into a single tube. This allows for a little more "wiggle room" in order to to tighten the coil down around the signal wire in order to install the RCA housing without any difficulty.

But if I have to guess - having each wire in a separate tube would probably sound "MARGINALLY" better.

Hope that helps

Regards - Steve

Also one more question for @williewonka @grannyring and @wig , has there been a consensus on which sounds better:
1. Putting two bare UPOCC conductors in a twisted pair inside a single PTFE tube
or
2. Insert each bare UPOCC conductor into its own PTFE tube first then twist the two tubed run into a twisted pair?

@williewonka Thanks Steve. I made a Spdif today using 2x18ga Neotech UPOCC (stock insulation) and 16ga mil-spec as neutral (will switch out when 16ga UPOCC arrives). I made it to be 1.27m long and it performs fantastically. So much so that it's not giving much ground to a Nordost Valhalla 2 spdif after A/B. Now on all my helix cables, there is an expansiveness to the sound at the expense of tonal density. That's the last area that I think the Nordost cable does better. I suspect the slightly looser density is due to the milspec wire so will report back when I switch out the neutral.

One thing I'm unclear on is how to coil the 16ga neutral if it is being created using the air tube method? If the bare wire is free floating inside the tube, how do you coil it with the drill?

Correction to my Last Post
The Acrolink Wire is D.U.C.C  
From  my most recent use of D.U.C.C used both on a Full Solid State System and now my own Full Valve System.
D.U.C.C Wire has tremendous capabilities at separating a singer and instrument and exgtending a Soundstage.
Between CDT and DAC the old used cable is completely relegated.
Between SUT and Phonstage the whole presentation becomes much more real and the sense of honesty has been further reiterated. 

As an update to my search for Chassis Mount 3 Pin Female XLR Connectors.
I have found a part with a PC OCC a (Alpha) as the main pin.
It is a Furutech FT-786F, this type of part gives added confidence to the route I am taking, it is not too expensive either, and only two are required to commence the new set up.

I have extended my search further to discover PC CCC Wire that miight prove useful in the Double Helix Power Cord Design.

Acrolink do a Speaker Cable.
I have done a few searches over the past week and have seen used cable for sale at a not too extorionate asking price.
Shipping and Import will be required on most I have seen if exporting to the UK.
The Wire is available in 10 AWG and 14 AWG.  

@in_shore -
WRT...’

A question to anyone , has anyone tried Furutechs F1-50s NCF ends on their helix power cords ?

I would have to guess that by the lack of responses to your question, nobody has "invested" in the Furutech connectors.

I have tried a few brands of plugs and the silver plated copper from Sonar Quest provided the best sound on my system and to my ears.

The brands I have tried in order of preference...

1. Sonarquest Silver plated Copper
2. Vanguard Silver plated Copper - a very close second to Sonar Quest
3. Oyaide Gold plated deoxidized Phosphorus Bronze
4. Marinco brass
5. Wattgate brass

Furutech products are manufactured to the highest standards for extreme applications and they price them accordingly, but for Audio applications, I consider many of their products as "overbuilt" - i.e. it’s a bit like using a sledgehammer to drive in a thumb tack

But if expense is no object - go for it :-)

Hope that helps - Steve

@divertiti  - WRT:  I only have 18ga unocc, do you think the shield/return needs to be thicker like 16ga?

Unless you are specifically performing  comparisons of wire you would not notice any difference there "might" be. Any difference would be miniscule

UP-OCC wire is amazing stuff, so there would be very little if any difference between 16 gauge and 18 gauge when used for the neutral

Use the 18 gauge - it will sound fantastic !

Regards - Steve

@divertiti - WRT; Cable length...

Since many people on this forum have reported better results wit cables longer than 1.5 meters you migfht think it would be the case with all cables.

However, we are talking about the Helix geometry with KLEI Harmony RCA plugs

The RCA plugs are what makes any SPDIF cable sound better, because with those you can get great performance even with a shorter cable.

Then factor in the Helix Geometry and you have yourself an extremely good cable

I have used Helix cables as a SPDIF link with the harmony RCA’s at 2 meter, 1 meter, and 0.5 meter, all identical wire and plugs and I could not tell the difference.

My last SPDIF was in my system for around 2 years and was the 0.5 meter version with

1. Silver Harmony RCA’s
2. SIGNAL: 1 x 24 gauge Neotech solid silver with Teflon insulation
3. NEUTRAL: 1 x 16 gauge silver plated mil-spec wire

If I were to build one today, knowing what has been posted in this thread alone, I would probably fabricate as follows for the very best performance

1. KLEI Absolute Harmony RCA’s
2. SIGNAL: 2 x 18 gauge solid, bare UP-OCC twisted - inside a teflon tube
3. An optional cotton sleeve over the Signal conductor assembly (personal preference)
4. NEUTRAL: 1 x 16 gauge solid, bare UP-OCC with Teflon insulation
5. and make it the length that suites your application

The only other option that may make a difference would be to use 2 x 18 gauge bare UP-OCC solid silver for the SIGNAL wire

Alas, I have to rely on others like @wig , for their excellent feedback and observations regarding SPDIF cables because I no longer have them in my system

Hope that helps - Steve

@ divertiti,

I have only used what Williewonka has recommended; 16 Ga as the Neutral. Let us know what you think after complete burn-in.

Wig

That's great to know, I only have 18ga unocc, do you think the shield/return needs to be thicker like 16ga?

@ divertiti

Mines are right around 1.5M and are outfitted with KLE Silver Harmony based upon Williewonka extensive testing of the KLE plugs with SPDIF.

Wig

Thanks Wig, what length do you make them? I heard it has to be at least 1.5m... and what rca plugs do you use? I have only the Klei absolute harmony rcas but not sure if they are good for digital

@ divertiti

I have made over 4 versions of the Helix SPDIF and with milspec cabling it still beats most cables but when you use OCC on both signal and ground; you have a world class cable...

Wig

Question for the experts, would a Helix spdif cable sound good? Would one made using 18ga Neotech UPOCC on both signal and shield perform better than 16ga milspec on shield?

A question to anyone , has anyone tried Furutechs F1-50s NCF ends on their helix power cords ? 
I’m just curious though the price for a pair makes me laugh ..
Currently I have the Sonar Quest aluminum barrel ends which because of the light weight don’t sag out of the socket.

Steve
         Thank You for the pointers.
I will commence planting seeds in the EE's mind about the intentions for the internal of the Chassis.
The change to XLR is for myself a new concept and very little knowledge has been acquired by myself on the use of the method, be it connections or Cable.
The Tiger is taken  by the Tail and the journey into the unknown has almost commenced.
Pretty Typical to my usual attitudes displayed in the producing of my HiFi System.  

@pindac regarding...

Chassis mount connectors - These would be good ifoyu like Silver plated copper
Silver plated female XLR chassis mount socket | Hifi Collective

Otherwise go for the Gold plated Copper

RE:  Any thought on adopting this as a approach will be well received.

You can use the Helix design internally - one DIYer I know of replaced all his power wires in all components with the helix and was very impressed with the outcome
- so the Helix XLR leads should also work very well

RE: If the Double Helix is a Good Idea to be used within the Power Amp's then this again will be replicated within the Pre' Builds.
Any thoughts are welcome.

Again - I see no reason not to use the helix XLR wherever possible

Is it really necessary though?

Well - my answer to that is - if you want the very best fidelity and money is not object - why not

I have a power distribution box and my last modification was replacing the 1 foot of neutral wire with UP-OCC bare copper (the Air Adaption) inside teflon tube and it made a discernible improvement for the better.

But as you may have read in this thread, not everybody likes the UP-OCC wire and particularly the "Air" adaption.

So some changes may not be for everyone.

Hope that helps - Steve

Additional Advice Required.
The Power Amp's as previously informed are going to be altered to be a Balanced Operation, swapping the Chassis Female RCA's for 3 Pin Female XLR's.
Unfortunately I am restricted by the engineers request to use one Connection Port, RCA Connection will not be available.
The suggestion is to reconfigure the Male XLR's if  unbalanced is wished to be achieved at some time.

I am trying to search out a High Puity Metal Female XLR to mount in the Chassis.
I have found Pure Copper with Gold Plating and Tellurium Copper with a Gold Plating.
The Types found with the metal above are not with a Locking Mechanism between the connectors.
Any thoughts on the Quality of a XLR connector/connection will be well received.
 
The Engineer has informed me that the New Cable to be used within the Amplifier will be a Microphone Cable.
I have been thinking this one over and a thought that has developed and not yet discussed with the Engineer, is if the internal wire can be a pre assembled Double Helix Design.
Any thought on adopting this as a approach will be well received.

A Pre Amp that looks like it will be my final Pre', had been on hold as a Build Project, due to having been loaned a version of the same design built as a Stereo Pre'.
My Pre Build is now going to be redesigned and produced as a Balanced Pre, some of the parts are already being acquired.
Again the XLR's chosen for the Power Amp will also find their way onto the Pre' Chassis.
If the Double Helix is a  Good Idea to be used within the Power Amp's then this again will be replicated within the Pre' Builds.
Any thoughts are welcome. 

It is proving difficult to find information on XLR usage reviews from comparisons outside of the sources of infoormation within this thread and the Links that can be sought.    

The Following is a report I have made on another Thread.
The Report is about Standard 5 Pin DIN to RCA IC’s, with Three Different Production Methods used for the Wires.
I will assume D.U.C.C is the Purist Copper, then PC Triple C and OCC.
I will assume that D.U.C.C have a crystal shape and alignmement that differs to OCC.

I am in a position to make a PC Triple C Double Helix IC, as the Wire materials are now with me.

The System used is a SS System.
It is familiar to me and I have had appriximately 20-30 Hours of listening to it Prior to COVID, I also got a few hours listening during 2020 when restrictions allowed for it, and when I loaned the D.U.C.C. IC’s
_________________________________________________________

On Friday of this week an opportunity was taken to visit a friend now we can visit to anothers Home in the UK.
COVID restrictions on Travel are eased and well received.

During this Visit the Resident HiFi was on the agenda, as well as Cables.
Three Cables were put to use as Tonearm Phono Cables.

OCC is the resident Cable Wire, D.U.C.C Wireand PC Triple C Wire were to be compared to OCC and each other.

OCC was first in use and it was delivering the performance to the ususal very high standard.

The exchange to D.U.C.C was immediately noticeable, there was a clearer insight to the presentation.
The Vocal became noticeably separated and the space around certain instruments was present.
A richness was also perceived, which was an addition to the authority of the performance.

The PC Triple C was the last up for the demonstration.
This was even more noticeable for the Clarity Perceived over the OCC.
There was a lift and lightness/finesse noticed to be present across the frequency range.
The off centre seat was also offering a insight into the performance with an added information, when not in the Centre Seat the performance did not appear to be at a loss.
The sound stage had taken on a new dimension.
Both the system owner and myself were of the opinion that the
PC Triple C has produced a delivery that is feeling much more real and honest when compared to OCC.
We were as a end discussion wondering how the combination of
PC Triple C and D.U.C.C would combine.
The thoughts were the Clarity of the two wires are very similar, the extra lift and dimension of the soundstage of PC Triple C, along with separation ability and rich tone offering from the D.U.C.C could be a wonderful marriage.

@ Steve,
thx for your thoughts.

I was surprised about the positive effect of the “shielded L” conductor, since the LPS only draws approx 60mA at 230VAC. This is a low current load on 2x 16 AWG wires and the induced EMI should be low. 
I would expect, that the positive effect could be even greater on higher current load situations, ie higher wattage devices.

Yes, the shield is only connected on the mains plug, not the IEC side.

2 reasons, I did not apply the “Air adaption”:
- safety / with having a conductive Metall shield on the L conductors I want to be on the save side.
- on my LPS for the digital audio components I do not favour the “naked” sound, could “sound” too lean.

@mawe - my thoughts...

• the shielding should "drain" any EMI generated noise created by the current passing through the LIVE conductor
• this should result in less noise being induced into the neutral conductor
• this should result in a quieter background
• the same shielding technique is used on each twisted pair in CAT8 cable, to achieve higher bandwidth transmissions

You might want to try the same thing, but apply the Air adaption i.e.

• 2x 16 AWG Neotech BARE OCC solid core wire inside a teflon tube
  
• then insert that assembly inside a cotton tube
• and finally insert that assembly into the shielding
• NOTE: do not use the teflon tape

This would improve the overall performance and probably improve on the quiet background

I assume you are only connecting the shield at the mains plug end of the power cable (i.e. a floating shield) and NOT at both ends.

Keep us posted - steve

Update on making a helix power cord:

Wonder, if someone has done it and if so, what is your experience?

What I did today:
A 1m long 230V power cord tested on my DIY linear power supply for my streamer and DAC, which delivers 12VDC and 5VDC. The DAC uses only 8 VA and the streamer less than 4 VA.

L =
2x 16 AWG Neotech OCC solid core in PTFE twisted together (2 x / 1cm). Wrapped plumbers PTFE around it.
Added a cotton sleeve on top.
Put this into a braided copper shielding, which is connected to mains plug for drainage.
N = 2x 2.5sqmm Jantzen silver plated copper stranded wire in PTFE and same for GND coiled around a 8mm Aluminium rod. Slides over the “L” conductor. It is a very tight fit.

Plugs are SonarQuest Silver plated with clear housing.

Whats new compared to my former PC with basically the same configuration is the shielding of the inner L conductor by using the braided shielding.

I think it is better than without the shielding. Seems to have a quieter background. No loss of dynamics.

@mawe
Excellent - thank you so much. That was also my guesstimate based on your previously described observations regarding sound quality vs AWG.

Your input has been highly informative and much appreciated.

@williewonka 
Thank you for explaining the road from initial trials to where you are today. That nailed a few uncertainties and corrected some misunderstandings.
So far - we are observing tremendous gain in sound quality based on your cable design. Now we just need to extract the final drops of musical enlightenment choosing the best wires for our individual systems.

@ provst

Are you using solid core or stranded wire from Neotech for the ground wires?

yes, solid core.

Yes ignore yesiamjohn’s comment as he has not built one of these or listened to one.  He likes to provoke.  These double helix designs make some of the best sounding ICs, digital cables and USB cables I have heard.  No doubt about it. 

Steve, ignore the uninformed comments. I have grannyring's version of the Helix design - 2 sets of RCA cables , and both digital spdif and usb cables, and they offer great musicality. 

yesiamjohn 's posts here and elsewhere indicate that he is thread polluter and best ignored. 

@ yesiamjohn - regarding your statement...

Come on lets not spread false info. SPDIF, USB, etc. all need to be impedance matched. This would be a bad idea for those types of cables.

Then - if you possess the knowledge to make such a statement please explain why many people who have actually tried the helix cables, prefer them to some very expensive impedance matched cables from some of the top brands.

They actually trust their ears and not what others "believe to be so"

It would appear that you have NOT tried the helix cables, so I suspect your thoughts are based on conjecture and "old school" thinking and not on actual trial and observations

I have received very negative comments from many others in the past, but the FACT remains, the Helix cables are outperforming some TOTL cables from established brands like Nordoist and Inakustik, to name but a few

You are of course free to believe whatever you want, but it is you that will be missing out on some very fine cables

Also, as you may have read, this thread is for the benefit of others that are interested in the continued development of the Helix design.

Regards - Steve

Come on lets not spread false info. SPDIF, USB, etc. all need to be impedance matched. This would be a bad idea for those types of cables. Maybe it will do no damage to the power delivery lines of USB. The added inductance of the air coil may even help.   I just realized you made a spark plug wire.