DIY speaker isolation base for a wood floor


A definite sonic improvement in tightening up the bass. 
1. Start with 4 aluminum cones. I used some old Mod Squad Tip Toes.
2. 16x16 slab of granite.
3. 1/8 cork.
4. 1/2 inch neoprene rubber.
5. 1/8 cork.
6. Top with another 16x16 slab of granite.
7. Enclosed with a wood cradle to hide the mechanism.
  The granite is from scraps from a shop and was cheap. The added 1/4 inch of neoprene to 1/2 inch thickness did help. Let me hear your thoughts.
128x128blueranger
Me, I need to move mine:

Real Heavy Speakers on 3 Wheels. 3 = more weight per wheel than 4, and 3 is always self-leveling.

Current big box, 3 way, 15" woofer, horn mid, horn tweeter, I am guessing between 150-200lbs ea.

3 wheel caution. I have blocks just above the floor at the rear corners, the edge of the centered 3rd wheel, to prevent tipping, especially as they are tilted back as well. If it tips in any direction, the raised corner blocks then hit the floor, preventing further tip.

tilt: a concealed block at the front above the front 2 wheels tilts the speaker back, both time alignment and altering angle of reflections off the floor and ceiling.

Move to precise listening position, or push out of the way (some or a lot).

I've done the isolation/spike thing, with these, other 120lb speakers, and lighter ones. With enough weight I like wheels.

My JSE Model 2's, 125 lbs each, came with factory wheels.

https://www.google.com/search?q=jse+model+2&sxsrf=ACYBGNSrOb458uz5Jwdm0yyn06W5XsOqNw:1576775349791&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=5zrM1YT0ijckLM%253A%252CuIXJGK1HDmXTvM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQ2cALZwZ45VVbDYcUebQJmdxiZWQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjNlfX0mcLmAhVrUN8KHeWzDPMQ9QEwAHoECAcQBg#imgrc=5zrM1YT0ijckLM:

Tried em, spiked em, no improvement obvious to anyone, so I changed 4 wheels to 3 on them. They had their own time aligned slanted front panel, and I just carefully avoided tipping. Loved them for many years, Son Chris has them now.





Michael, Folks would generally be much better off if they believed in too much rather than too little. Would you believe I’m using mass-on-spring isolation right now? No, I’m not hot dogging you. 🌭 There are a great many advantages to small battery powered systems, as I’ve oft described. 
If there was no such thing as decoupling we never could have detected and observed gravity waves. The only challenge for decoupling for audio is how many directions 🔜 🔚 🔝 you can decouple from and how low a resonant frequency Fr you can achieve for each direction. My airspring Nimbus of yore, for example, decoupled in all six (count em!) directions with Fr as low as below 1 Hz. The lower you go the higher you fly. 
In other words decoupling is not (rpt not) synonymous with damping. Damping techniques on the other hand 🖐 cannot affect extremely low freqjencies of vibration. That’s why mass-on-spring devices must (rpt must) be used for vibration in the range 0-20 Hz. You can also think of iso devices as anti gravity devices, if that helps. By the time you get to 20 Hz you’re already 95% effective. So, where’s the beef? 🍔
Maybe other methods are better than spiking but and I say but, my isolation bass helped on the low end of the audio sound spectrum.

"I always thought you wanted to couple your speakers to the floor (with spikes).     Now it is best to decouple them?"


There is no such thing as decoupling in audio. That's just a talking point from those who are dampening. Once you put your speakers in a room all the physics of that room and the speaker becomes one and the same.

I think it’s best to couple the stand to the floor and decouple the speaker from stand, correct?

Do you guys feel like isoacoustic isolation stands are good for decoupling speakers from the stand?
I always thought you wanted to couple your speakers to the floor (with spikes).      Now it is best to decouple them? 
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For a demonstration of a speaker support which both isolates and damps, watch the Townshend Audio Seismic videos on You Tube.
Springs go lower and are more effective than a sandbox. The sandbox was usurped by springs and air springs twenty years ago. Even Bright Star, the original sandbox, saw the writing on the wall.
Isolating the speakers on a proper isolation stand (I.e., spring based) accomplishes two things. it prevents mechanical feedback to the front end electronics AND reduces the resonance of the speaker cabinets. Hel-loo! 
On the advice of Dr. Edgar I built a pair of sand boxes slightly larger than the bottom of my Fitzmaurice HT Tuba subs.  Each box contains 100 pounds of fine white sand with the subs sitting directly on the sand.  I think this addresses both issues nicely.
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Right. So there are two issues here, the speaker vibrating and the floor acting as a sounding board. In geoFFkait's example he is isolating the floor from everything above 1 Hz. So the floor is being isolated nicely. But, unfortunately the speaker is free to vibrate at all frequencies above 1Hz. Any vibration of the speaker is distortion. Some new designs like the Kef Blades and Magico subwoofers use drivers on opposite sides of very stiff enclosures so their forces cancel. This prevents the enclosure from vibrating as a whole. The best way for us to deal with both problems is to have a stiff well dampened floor. Concrete is ideal. A wood floor has to be very stiff then dampened with padding and carpet. The best way to keep the enclosure from vibrating is to spike it to a stiff well dampened floor. Force cancelling woofers like in the Kef Blades are ideal. 
Good work geoFFkait you have succeeded in making a bass distortion machine.
My dual-layer iso platform Nirvana employs two very heavy masses 18x18 like granite or bluestone and two layers of springs. You can achieve extremely low resonant frequencies Fr with this set up, circa 1.0 Hz. Hel-loo! Total cost you ask, about $100. You supply the granite or bluestone. Cannot beat with stick.