Another vote for Herbie’s. My speakers are 265 each and I use the Herbie’s on a ceramic tile floor. Allows them to be moved a bit if need be and seems to isolate them well. Lots of interesting discussion on “isolation”, coupling etc.
Cheap Speaker "Isolation" Solution for 300 lb. Speaker
Good Afternoon All,
I am looking for advice on a cheap and simple isolation solution for large, heavy (325 lb. each) floorstanding speakers.
I've read much advice on granite or marble slabs, multiple layers of cork, springs, etc; while this has been helpful, it is neither a cheap or simple solution.
Ultimately, I am looking to protect my wood floor from damage these very heavy speakers might do, as well as decouple the speaker from the floor in order to reduce bass resonance (I am in an apartment complex and worry about noise complaints). I've looked into sorbothane pads, but they never seem to be able to hold this much weight.
Thanks!
I am looking for advice on a cheap and simple isolation solution for large, heavy (325 lb. each) floorstanding speakers.
I've read much advice on granite or marble slabs, multiple layers of cork, springs, etc; while this has been helpful, it is neither a cheap or simple solution.
Ultimately, I am looking to protect my wood floor from damage these very heavy speakers might do, as well as decouple the speaker from the floor in order to reduce bass resonance (I am in an apartment complex and worry about noise complaints). I've looked into sorbothane pads, but they never seem to be able to hold this much weight.
Thanks!
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Speaking of Diamonds there are the Shun Mook Diamond Resonators to consider. Nothing transfers energy faster than diamond. Yes, I know what you’re thinking: why would you want something resonating in the room? http://www.shunmook.com/hifiproduct_2.html |
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teo_audio You added to my original screed, which maligned its interpretation and meaning. I said: The thing that is closest to equivalence of final result when using the diamond dampers, is a precision/lab grade anti-vibration wideband safe table. Ie, indicating that the safe table, to compare with..should also be of a wideband nature, as in wide frequency bandwidth of isolation. The natural tuning frequency of the dampers is 2hz. They move closer and closer to that ideal with regard to being a excellent lossy spring, as the load or mass per sq inch increases. Which is the why of the recommendation of using a cone on the bottom of smaller lighter gear. More pressure in a smaller area, with the attendant curving in of the surface and material, toward the tip of the cone...which enables the same effect, with a lossy characteristic in multiple directions, instead of just the vertical. If one pushes down on the corner of lets say a preamp, and the premap is on round tipped cones (read: not razor sharp), with the cone tips centered on the damping pads (large side of the cones blu-tacked to the preamp chassis), and then one lets go of the corner, they get pretty well one half cycle of motion in the preamp. Or (to clarify), if one tries to ’bounce’ (Up-down, left-right, front-back) the preamp, in any way or any rate of acceleration, when it is on the damping pads (with said cones), they get pretty well just the single damped half cycle. (return to center) |
I am wondering if the, "O.P." ever had any luck. I have had the same problem with heavy speakers. Sorbothane "will" actually work. But you may want to contact the manufacturer directly for a baseline of recommended shapes, type/rating and etc.. "I have, several times". They were not difficult to work with. But their answers left me at times with just many more questions, especially upon further reflection. I have used the (50/70) Durometer rated pads, (6" x 6") X 3pcs. at 1" thick. "Which brings the Natural Frequency down to about 10Hz. according to the manufacturer". "Or so I was told" I was also told that these particular pads were orig. designed for autobody to chassis isolation. Which made sense. They came with documentation and were rated at (1500-2500Lbs.) per pad. "When calculating for this type of application the objects weight plus the, (Inertial force of mass, AT load), and also force vectoring must be taken into consideration". Not just a speaker's given "dead weight". Otherwise, the Sorbothane will tend to simply disintegrate during it's very brief and tortured lifespan. Anyway, I achieved what I'll call, "Mixed Results" at best. I ended up placing all of the pads behind bass transducers in sealed cabinets which did work well at reducing resonance and interior reflections. |
Trampoline is optimum. I've built two. One for my turntable and second for SVS SB-2000 pro. They are amazing. Requires some trial and error. The tramp must end up causing item to "hover" inside rack. I've used high strength bungees but it must be free enough to sort of "bounce" within frame. So for these 300 lb speakers the frame would need to exceed the footprint of speaker, and the frame must be both big enough and strong enough to weave sufficient bungees through holes in wall of frame. I used a box with books to replicate both size and weight of sub BEFORE my delivery arrived. At 300 lbs you would need four people to place the speaker onto the trampoline. It will probably tilt in one direction which will require some rearrangement of bungees. A cross weave both front to back and side to side can be accomplished with a solid length of bungee woven back and forth under and over each strand. Slider feet under frame allows the item to be slid with effort but at least you won't have to remove speaker to toe in or whatever. Your fellow tenants will bless you AND (more importantly) those speakers will sound amazingly better. Plus all the vibration shaking your other gear will be greatly diminished. |
UM...Hee hee, I never stated the weight of the "speaker/s" I was at that time working with. "Oop's" Sorry! But they happened to be, (460lb.) each with a, (21" x 24-1/2") footprint and (94") tall (Line-Source) array's. I am not sure that "Optimum" is the word which I would use to describe your "'Trampoline" config. with those numbers. Unless maybe I had a really, REALLY intense fetish for "Bungee"! But alas, I do not... |
If you're serious, search eBay for springs. Ones you want will be about 2-3" diameter and compress to about 2" high under a 115lb load. This will be the dirt cheap solution, yet about a million times better than what you're doing now. If you don't want the speakers raised that much then make a platform and put the springs in the corners, in other words copy Townshend Podiums. This is what I did as proof of concept. Works real good. Or just buy 4 sets of Nobsound. Four sets will easily support 460lb speakers. Way easier. Of course if you do Podiums that will be the best by far. But even Nobsound will be better than what you're doing now. |