amplifier longevity


Is there any difference in longevity and or reliability between valve amps and solid state amps?

I thought that perhaps design differences between ss and tube amps  might  be a factor here.

Specifically I am considering the valve amps by Rogue Audio vs. the solid state amps by Luxman, both great brands in my opinion.

 

Thanks!

yamaho

Half of this makes no sense.
I scratched out the part that does make sense.

I traded them in for a set of Class D monoblocks 3 years later because I couldn't stand the heat and the tube maintenance. 

At 10 years old they ran like champions and had not one issue.  

But here we agree and have experienced the same.

Not counting my first tube amp, a VTL..... …

 

My mid 1980's Acoustat TNT200's worked when I purchased them last year. I just had them rebuilt and modified by Roy Esposito, a former Acoustat Engineer. They worked 35+ years before I had them rebuilt.  I suspect they will outlast me...

+1 @cakyol 

Another thing to consider: if you are like me, sometimes you want to play a record or two for a relatively short listening session. Since SS amps can (and should) be left on all the time, they sound optimal much more quickly than tube amps that you can't leave on all the time, and the turning on an off frequently can wear out the parts.

If you like to monkey around and roll tubes and are more of an equipment head than a music head, tubes may be for you. If you are like me and want to KISS, go with a high quality SS integrated amp. Luxman is excellent and there may some others that are of better value to consider.

Since SS amps can (and should) be left on all the time

So why do they put a power switch on the amplifiers?

Many companies are now putting them on the back of the unit. If you are not going to be using it for an extended period of time,they should be turned off from an electrical safety standpoint.

some very low current preamps or phono stages dont have power switches.

 

 

My Pass Labs Alepth 1.2 Class A monos have two decades on them now. The filtering or power supply caps are the soda can electrolytic type caps; I’ve seen the moniker computer power supply caps used to describe these large caps with terminals on the top. I’d love to see if replacing those old style caps with modern low ESR say polypropylene and foil film caps or something like that would bring about an improvement.... That is just conjecture on my part; I should just leave it to Nelson, the true expert, to upgrade because if anyone would know, it’d be the man himself, Nelson Pass. The great thing also, he is within driving distance of me so I don’t have to ship my gear and let the UPS fellas beat up my stuff!

You just made me think...My Rowland Model 12 monoblocks have been problem free since 2009 installation. And they get workouts!

Heat, depending on design and how and where is used, can defiantly pose a longevity problem.

Early model Krell KSA and KST power amps notoriously failed do to cap failure from heat. Design modifications using better caps and more attention to heat dispersion solved the problem. I know of the problem with the Krells because I had them and went through the headache and expense of getting problem solved.

Not to pick on Krell, per say, as am sure that other early hi-biasing class A/AB amp manufactures had heat issues to work out as well......Jim

 

Like @rbyington711 said, Pass Labs, particularly X350.5. They are built like s tank and sound like top-notch tube amps. Their electrolytic capacitors are lasting >20 years. I went from Pass X250.5>X250.8>X350.5. Each time I am amazed how good they sound.

 

@bigkidz I beg to differ. Keystone makes those white Q Covers with 4 holes, 1 hole, and no hole. The holes are not for ventilation but for a tech to use a probe to check rails voltage. There is no difference in temp disspation between the convention black Q Covers and the Keystone nylon ones. Any amp with a design where there’s more than 10-15V on the TO3 case should have Q covers covering the whole component for safety reason. The SA220s have 65+/- rails and they give the curious owners a good zap once in a while if not covered. The nylon keystone covers expose 2 screws... I honestly would not recommend unless you are using them to cover filament regs like 7806 or 7812s.  There is a reason why the black ones are still being used and sold for output devices.


Any amp with a design where there’s more than 10-15V on the TO3 case should have Q covers covering the whole component for safety reason.
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I know testing a 9V battery with the KISS method of the wagging tongue, is about as much as I like. More volts would taste worse.