I understand sorbothane can be used. I use small squares that have some give and are sold at hardware (or home depot) stores and typically used under furniture. I also have hardwood floors. Hardwood floors can also be a bit uneven, so bumpers with give can help keep the speakers more level.
If you are cheap like me, try a nickel. If you are a big spender, you can use quarters. You can also paint them and put stick on furniture glides on the bottom which will allow you to slide the speakers slightly should you need to.
Another inexpensive alternative is to take one of your spikes to the local hardware store and purchase hex bolts or carriage type bolts with same thread dimensions. You can then attach a protective pad if desired. These can be securely fastened to the speakers with the provided nuts. If nuts aren't provided you can purchase them at hardware store. Total cost should be less than $10. This has worked well for me and my wood floors. I've suggested this several times and am curious if anyone has tried it.
I use and also sell granite slabs for speakers. Although, not the cheapest fix out there, they offer sonic benefits of deeper tighter bass and better soundstage. You can use your spikes but they cannot come in contact with the granite or the midrange might become matalic (I use and would supply custome wood spacers. Now if you are thrifty, I have been told that hockey pucks work just fine on their own (between spikes and wood floor) Good luck
Check out the coupling discs sold by Adon on Audiogon. They are identical from both a material and construction standpoint to Audiopoints only much less expensive as they are made outside the US. NO SONIC DIFFERENCE at 1/4 the price.
I agree with Jihley, if you are on a budget those hockey pucks can work well. They are cheap and seem to offer a bit more stability (as well as isolation) than cones.
No sonic difference; don't kid yourself. However, BIG price difference. You do sell Audiopoints correct? That may account for your opinion; mine however is without prejudice.
Wonderful to see this idea worked for someone else. It's so economical and just makes sense. Interested to hear if anyone perceives sonic benifits with costly specialty products.
Twl I don't think the number of posts here has anything to do with being an "expert". If 45 years in the hobby qualifies me as an expert, I'll accept that however. The facts are that Adon cones "sound" every bit as good as the Audio Points you sell. There is no discernible difference. Once again I have no dog in this fight but you do; furthermore it probably isn't a bad idea to disclose that affiliation with your company in every message you post not once per thread in the event readers miss it. After you've spent a number of years listening and developing a trained ear, you'll realize that more expensive is not necessarily better. I'll give you that, in general, quality and price are positively correlated but not always. I do appreciate your position however.
I think most hardware stores carry bolts with rubber tips on one end. I bought some like this for some Meadowlarks I once had on a hardwood floor. Linn Skeets are great if you want to spend a little more.
I did a .357 caliber upgrade to my stands for use on a hard wood floor. (Get rid of those skinny needle type screw-in spikes - whatever you do.)
SeriousIy I epoxied .357 caliber bullets onto the bottom of my metal stands. Good ol' lead has long been an audiophile favorite - its very dead - no ringing. And very soft - will not likely mark your floor at all. I used something called a semi-wadcutter, which is ammo used for target shooting - it has a flat end instead of round or pointy - tapers just a little.
BTW - I used just the bullet/lead portion, not the entire cartidge with the brass and gunpowder. Bullets (as opposed to complete cartridges) are sold for reloading ammo. I supposed I could sell a handful for a couple bucks plus shipping - otherwise you gotta buy several hundred at a time - but they could be used for balast in stands or anywhere else you need a little lead.
Try gluing carpet all over a paving stone or cinder block. Then you can put the speakers on top of them, and spikes under the speakers. Works great for me, and your floor is safe!
Recently bought a secondhand, good as new pair of Cerwin Vega Floorstanders. Pondered for a week how to lift them off wooden floor in our home. No threaded bushes on speaker bases to attach spikes.MMMMM,I wonder if rubber mallets cut in half would do the trick. Then araldite each one onto a square piece of plywood 7mm thick with approx 13mm to edge on each side. This I did. Made 4 for each speaker and works great. Using velcro on plywood and speaker bases to secure without doing to much (glue damage)if I have to remove these in the future for reselling.This is the first time I have owned a pair of floorstanders and is my first attempt to reduce resonance and vibration from wooden floors.Each rubber mallet I used is the smaller size. Approx 65mm in diameter and when cut in half is approx 40mm in height with smaller end touching floor.Cost,$15.00.to elevate the 2 speakers.Weight of each speaker is 23kgs, 3way system with 12inch woofers.Yes,12 inch woofers.
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