For a foundational approach, best to install the dedicated circuit. The power distributors seem like a glorified power strip in a box that add only outlets, not more ampacity. How big is your system in total wattage? A 15-amp circuit won't supply more than 1800 watts--would have to dedicate that to the system--no other devices or appliances on that circuit. Best to install two 20 amp dedicated for a bigger system that can perform a lot of work. Not sure if one 30-amp circuit is advised. That seems more useful in a 240V line, which is what I use but must have a 240V/120V transformer with outlets that can serve all your components--see Torus and other brands for that. |
What kind of equipment do you have that requires a 30A line? That's unusually high for home use. |
Installing two 20 amp dedicated lines is a good way to go. If you currently have a small system, plan for the future. Also, it's advisable to run digital components on a separate line than the analogue.
The next step in a power upgrade is a power conditioner, which will help remove AC line noise coming into the house from the power grid. But most importantly is installing a dedicated line. |
Dedicated line only means that none of your other household appliances are directly connected to the power going to your stereo/home theater equipment. It does not mean the other appliances like hvac equipment, refrigerators, charging stations for phones and tablets and the like getting power from the same breaker panel cannot dirty that dedicated line you paid extra to install when they are turn on. So conditioners and cables will still help control interference from other sources. |
Both! Any current draw on a shared circuit, will cause a voltage drop, to one degree or another. The smaller the wire gauge and/or higher the current draw, the greater the voltage drop. Some noise from other devices, can still be transmitted through your panel's neutral and ground buss bar, which are shared by all branches. A dedicated circuit will help with the first issue, a good power purifier or regenerator, the second. Personally- installing a twisted, double run of 10 AWG Romex, to my listening room's outlets made a dramatic improvement. Already had my Stealth XXX. |
A dedicated 20 amp (2400 watts) circuit is more than enough for
anything you would ever use. A 30 amp outlet is for a clothes
dryer or hot water heater with a different type of plug that no
component cord would even fit . So yes ,you are better off
spending the money on a dedicated circuit than a power
distributor ! |
Great. I will have the electrician install two 20 amp dedicated circuit lines .
Second part of the question: does the electric cables , as well as the connection to the breaker box and the wall plug have to be a certain kind or models ?
Also, can someone clarify on the fact of having a power conditioner for the whole house installed?
Thank you kindly for all your answers. |
10-09-15: Yogiboy
A dedicated 20 amp (2400 watts) circuit is more than enough for
anything you would ever use ... One amp = 120 watts,so you can do the math and
you will see that you will never need any more than that.
Oh no, this is completely mistaken. That's because no amplifier is 100% efficient. Look at a Bryston 4B amp, for example. This nominally a 300W/channel amp, but it draws 2100 watts of AC when driven hard at 4 ohms. So if you're running high-power amps, you'll want a 20A dedicated line for each, plus at least one more line for your source components. |
Any licensed electrician will know what to install. Are you sure you're not doing this yourself ? If you are, be careful you don't burn your house down! |
Cleeds, I stand corrected. That Bryston sure draws lots of current ! |
I will have an electrician do the install. The question remains : do I tell the electrician to use a certain kind of electric cable?better than cable that is regularly used ?
Thoughts?
Thanks |
The standard 20 amp 12 gauge Romex cable is what the electrician will use. |
Don't let the electrician use less than 10AWG Romex. A separate run and breaker, for each outlet. Especially if the run is better than 50'. Whatever anyone thinks or says, the difference in your system's potential dynamics will be worth it. Twisting the Romex, before the install also helps in minimizing noise. |
Rockanroller,
you're in a position now where you can decide to install audiophile grade wall receptacles or let the electrician use his standard AC outlets. This is a topic of controversy due to the fact that some believe that there is no audible difference. The high-end outlets use very pure metals and are hospital grade (providing a solid connection) as opposed to the brass plated outlets.
It's not an expensive upgrade.
Check the archives for names such as Porter Ports, PS Audio. |
Those upgraded outlets also are engineered to grip your
plugs, much more securely(improved conduction). Important
benefit! If the audiophile grades are out of your price
range, at least spring for some good, 20 Amp(nema 5-20R),
Hospital or Industrial Grade duplexes, ie: from Hubbell.
Note: if you opt for Hospital Grade, avoid those that
mention being, "tamper resistant." They have
extra internal contact points(less contacts=good). Music
Direct sells the PS Audio Power Port, two for
$75.00 (http://www.musicdirect.com/p-7420-ps-audio-power-port-classic.aspx) |
I agree with the suggestion to run 10 gauge wire but would recommend you run 3 wire with ground BX. In the future if you decide to do isolated ground or balanced power you are all set.
Just because you run 10 gauge wire does not mean you have to use a 30 amp breaker, a 20 amp is fine as the larger wire will minimize voltage drops. |
In my last home I had an electrician install a 20 amp dedicated line, using 10 awg Romex. 10 awg Romex is tough to work with, but the electrician did it. Cost was about $200 and it was an excellent investment.
Now regarding hospital grade outlets, not really a fan. |
Agree with the need to install 10/3 Romex even though it is harder for the electrician to work with. I bought Cerrowire NM-B 10/3 (147-1803CR) available at Home Depot for convenience; the 100 ft coil is most economical. Solid conductors and a 10gauge ground....I would have liked to go with 'SOTA' wire from one of the audio manufacturers but given length of the circuit needed from my sub-panel straight up to my 5 duplex outlets, the $35-60/foot (depending upon whose you buy) is extremely prohibitive in cost so I could not make that work. One year+ later, I cannot hear any grain or nasty side effects of using the Romex product in the system and have instead put the time and money into the power conditioners I utilize, the dual ground rods on the house, Environmental potentials gear in the main panel and sub-panel, etc...very happy with end results.
A word on 'hospital grade' commercially available outlets; you can do better (IMHO), look at Porter Ports, Avatar Acoustics Afterburner8s, Furutechs, Oyaides, etc...spend a bit more on your outlets; you will be very happy you did! |
Good Hospital or Industrial Grade outlets are still much
better than the standard, $1.29 outlets that any electrician
will install, if not directed otherwise. Rockanroller is
obviously concerned with finances and they offer a price
option, between junk and the really good outlets(which are,
of course, preferred). |
Understood.....Porter Ports at their stated price are very reasonable; best overall option from what I can see for this scenario. |
