ac cables falling out of IEC inlets on amps

It does pivot, Don_s, but it is designed to work with standard IEC ends. Sorry, I did not read your post carefully enough. When I google Marinco retainer clip, I get nothing of interest. Maybe contact Marinco? Or try PartsConnexion?

Hey, Fatparrot !
If the Blu tack works effectively without causing any problems, then I'm all for trying it. Now, I guess that I'm a rocket scientist, however, I'm still a little retentive, but I can't help it.

Swampwalker, Thanks, I found it. Does the wire pivot or is it fixed? It does not look like it would work. The dimensions of the notch and length of the wire seem designed for stock Belden-type cables.

for some reason that link does not take you to the right page in the catalog, but its a Heyco #0915 IEC Safety retainer clip.

Man, I guess that some Audiophiles are REALLY anal. I am using a very heavy power cord on my tube preamp, which sits on the top shelf. The weight of the cord will pull it out just enough to create a problem with the right channel.

The Blutack fix is cheap it works, it's removable [it's been in place for 2 years with no slippage], it doesnt require a major project involving time & money, and as others have suggested, it might even dampen vibrations.

Watch Apollo 13 to see what can be done to improvise a solution [the CO2 scrubber problem]. Sometimes, even a rocket scientist doesn't have to be a rocket scientist...just a handy-man with common sense!

Markertek was wrong but if you google iec connector retaining clip, the first hit you get IS (drum roll, pls)....
>http://www.boltproducts.com/heyco/iec-safety-retainer-clip.html
, which takes you right there. Its not always easy to get them installed if you hae big fingers, but there it is.

I have found that the IEC's contacts are recessed and barely make contact with the pins in the IEC socket. I have had good sucess by cutting about 1/16 inch of the end of the plug using a fine tooth hack saw.

I think the blu-tack is a great idea. It will help dampen the connection and I will try it.

I now believe that the connectors and a vise-like junction is more important than the wire contained within the cord

I hve not experiemented, but that makes a lot of sense to me. Maybe I'll try a PS Audio power cord.

Swampwalker, I searched Markertek and could not find what you mentioned. That doesn't mean Markertek was not your source. They may have stopped carrying it or my search parameters may have been inadequate.

I would think that if such an item was available it would be more "famous" in audiophilia.

#1 the IEC is a computer industry connection, and is a bad but cheap choice for audio use and especailly with Monsterous sized power cables.. Why somebody decided to use this standard is beyond me accept it simply was an approved and abundant available option in the first place, big reason why we buy a new Audio component for 10,000 bucks and get a 60 cent 18 gauge computer power cord with it.

We should have gear with a locking type connection anyway.. Or hell a Standard 3 prong Hubble outlet with another standard AC plug would be perfectly fine.. So you would then buy power cables with a standard 15 amp connection identical on both ends of the power cord.

The aftermarket retaining clips ARE available- I have one on my 3910 for all the reasons cited above. I can't remember where I got it, but I would imagine someplace like Markertek (sp?).

Elizabeth - Desoldering aids (copper braid, etc.) mean never having to say you are sorry.

I have had good luck with PS Audio connectors and chose them because I now believe that the connectors and a vise-like junction is more important than the wire contained within the cord. I treat the prongs with conductor fluid and I know when I have trouble pulling out the plug that it is the right connector. I love the idea of a small screw tightener like computer serial cords. There's a marketing opportunity!

Try to use cable ties to suspend the cable above the component so the weight of the cable is not pulling down the IEC connection.
On the other end, I have even gone as far as attaching L brackets to the wall above the wall outlet to be able to hang cable ties to support the weight of a heavy plug .

It seems to me one solution would lie in the design of the inlet prongs.A possibility would be to spring load them by shaping each prong to be effectively a leaf spring.Easy.

Dave, Thanks for the link. Looks like an elegant solution. Does anybody know how well they work?

What would be great is a holder that could be used with existing IECs without requiring opening equipment and removal/replacement. Why can't a holding clip like the one pictured be installed on any IEC that screws in (as opposed to the (minority) press-in-place ones?

The retaining wire and two longer screws shouldn't cost more than 125 audiophile dollars. Some enterprising soul could make a fortune and earn fame and the undying gratitude of millions (or at least thousands).

Power cord manufacturers could supply them with each power cord.

OK, brainstorming here but you get the idea.

Drubin, I share your frustration and wish there was an easy way to change the "standards". It is not just the IEC end. I am not happy with the wall end of things either.

Drubin is right. The idea of "gluing" the cord to the chassis, with real Blu-Tack, or the generic stuff from Office Depot, doesn't appeal to me, for the reasons stated by Jeff_jones.
I use a mechanical solution where it's feasible -- I support the power cord plugs with small wood blocks under them so they stay in place.
I've often thought the connectors should be held in place with screws, like serial cables on computers. I'm sure I'm not the only genius out there.

This problem really pisses me off. We spend all this money on power cords only to have compromised connections. What's the net effect of that?

Some manufacturer needs to step up with a serious solution to this.

I'm getting in late on this one but I have the same problem. The higher up the component on my rack, the more weight pulling down on the power connection and I was getting sporadic disconnection. I bought two less massive PC's but I prefer the larger power cables. For $3 you guys just solved my problem. I tried some fairly creative stuff but nothing seemed to work.

Thank You!

If you are in the market to change out your IEC inlets for some of higher quality ... check these out ... IEC with Retainers

Scroll down to the very last picture on the page and view IEC with retainer clip

HTH Dave

Thanks Pummy!

Just a caution: I've used a Blu-Tack "clone" called Fun-Tack and found that it becomes gummy and runny when subjected to even a little heat. I can only assume that the real thing doesn't do this.

I'd fix the connection right, either by finding a correct plug-socket fit or elinimating the connectors all together and soldering things permanent. Putting in globs of goop , tape, whatever, to fill up space is a good way to end up with a hot joint over time and is dangerous from a fire perspective.

First, I rolled the Blutack [you will have to kneed real Blutack to make it pliable] into a "rope" about the diameter of a pen, and cut this "rope" to fit around the outside of the power cord plug. I pressed the power cord very firmly into the IEC, and got essentially a removable "putty joint" between the plug & the IEC. Depending on your power cord termination, you may have to press the Bluetack into the physical connection. of the cord pug & IEC. Be sure to hold the power cord in place for 20 seconds to let the Blutack "set-up". The Blutack should form a seal between the two...make sure that the outside if the plug & the IEC are clean and dry before you start [clean with isopropyl alcohol...90% or greater, if you can find it].

Tho generic stuff is much tackier and pliable than Blutack. Removing the generic can be a pain, especially if it is exposed to heat. It will turn into a sticky gooey gum like blob...trust me, I found out the hard way!

Thank you, Pummy. I appreciate the info. I also have had issues with the power cord iecs not staying snug in the amp, etc. connectors. It's nice to know some of the alternatives.

Interesting findings on the blutack. I only use it to secure my speakers to the stands. I'll try it on the connectors tonight and see if this thing really works wonders even on unexpected places where you don't want them to be.

Arthursmuck and Sherod- I'm applying it as a small ring on the Marinco connector,where it will contact the inlet only in the area furthest from the inlet's prongs, where I certainly don't want it to reach.
I have now installed it on the connectors for my SACD/cd and preamp, in addition to my monoblocks. The jury is still out, as the effect is not nearly as dramatic as when I used it to tweak my monoblocks. After I've lived with it for a while, I'll have a better sense of it. In any case , doing the monoblocks was very worthwhile
Sherod- Yes, this is the stuff. Except, I paid $3.29 for it at a local merchant.
pummy

I would imagine that Blutack isn't conductive, because if it is, you could encounter a nasty short. I'm also curious as to how you would apply this stuff inside the iec of the amp. Is this the stuff?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230184210451&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=013

How are you applying the blutack to the inlet?

Fatparrot-
I tried your suggetion with regard to Blutack. To say it worked seems, at this time, an understatement. The connectors are staying in place, and there is a remarkable effect on the sound.The image has enlarged, become more specific, and noticably more transparent.
No doubt part of the positive result simply stems from a more solid connection, but I would guess part of it has to do with the vibration damping effect of the Blutack. You may have found a significant tweak here. I'll try it on the IECs on my SACD player and preamp. If it works out, I'll let you know.

this is amazing as I just sent my mono block amps off because of this problem...

Fatparrot-
I take it you have tried blutack and it worked out well for you, and you tried some other brand and it didn't. Can you say a little more about your experience?
pummy

Tvad- I've tried tape with only partial success. It seems the inlet is slightly tapered, so taping Marinco connector prevents full insertion.
Kenscollick- Your tip of bending the contacts might have some merit. My incentives for replacing the IEC include thr understandin that some are spring loaded and exert a thght grip. Also, I am attracted to the idea of moving up in quality, if it would improve the sound of my system.
Thanks, pummy

I had the same problem. Use Blutack. DO NOT USE THE GENERIC GARBAGE, OR YOU WILL BE SORRY!

Often the contacts get flattened in addition to the tape I would also check the contacts and bend them out with a small screw driver. I dont see a reason to replace the IEC