Power Cable options for Levinson 300 series


I currently have the Levinson 33H's, and before them the 336. Both these amps have a Levinson power cable built right into the Chassis. Knowing how much a good power cable can improve a component, I am wondering what I could be missing in improved performance if I was able to put an after market cable on my 33H's. Does anyone know of any way to make this happen for the 300 series, as I believe they all, from the 331 to the 336, and including the 33H and 33's..........have built in power cables!
bullot
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The standard power connector in the aftermarket cable industry is the 15amp IEC connector. The 336, 33H, and the 33 cannot use a 15amp connector, because even the baby of the bunch, the 336, needs 17.71amps at 120v to reach full rated power with 8ohm loads. The 33H and 33 regenerate AC, which is an inefficient process, so they really need more current than a 15amp circuit is capable of.

There is a 20amp IEC connector available, but even that one isn't all that interesting for a 336, as 4ohm rated power requires 30.59amps at 120v. ML probably just threw in the towel and made a 10/3(?) power cord captive. For folks that use a true 20amp or 30amp circuit and outlet (which has a different power plug configuration) ML says in the owners manual to just change the plug on the captive power cord.

Frankly, I'm surprised even the 335 comes with a 15amp IEC port, because the 335 requires 20.93amps to reach rated power into 4ohm loads. I suppose ML felt they needed to support replaceable power cords for marketing reasons where it was possible.

The "right way" to power amps of this class is to run a dedicated 220v/30amp line to each amplifier, and have a dealer reconfigure the amps for that voltage.

To be perfectly honest, I've never understood amps with this much rated power. The 336 is delivering wattage equal to one horsepower per channel into 4ohm loads. Unless you have one heck of a set of speakers, with a large array of drivers with massive voice coils, this sort of power is just going to heat up speaker motors and cause poor performance. Given the potential power output, I'd recommend using at least 10ga speaker cables (8ga for longer runs) with high quality spade terminations on the amp side, and spades or locking banana plugs on the speaker side.
Thanks very much for all the input folks.......some excellent food for thought! I am going to have a closer look at my power situation for starters. I have been planning on doing this but a change of address was in my near future, so was holding off till I got in the new digs! I will definately be using some of this advice.
I'd bet ML knows a heck of alot more than us and decided the correct gauge will make a difference not some esoteric
material. The power just came down how many miles of god knows what, not to mention step down transformers and such.
Save your money and worries and spend more on the music.
Some of the numbers listed by other members are not entirely correct. 350/700/1400W rated Levinson 336 will pull in 3/6/12 amps MAXIMUM. Short dynamic passage will be handled by reserve currents in the capacitors. In normal listening level the amp will pull in 1 amp or less.

The dedicated AC circuit is still a good investment considering how affordable it is. I've installed 15A dedicated line a couple of years ago and I'm very happy with it.