A previous discussion included a statement about crossover components.

HELLO Peporter!  Capacitors come in $0.50, $5, and $50 versions, like wine and cars. Is that surpriing? I hope not. I've bee upgrading passive speaker crossovers for years.  My "Best for the Buck" rating is Mundorf MKP (250 volt rating). Delund is best but very pricy. I've tried them. They sound about 5 -10% better than Mundorf but Mundorfs sound a good 50% better than what is probably in your speaker's stock crossovers. Foil or ribbon (flat strips) coils sound better than round wire inductors, but not dramattically. Yes, you can spend huge $$ on passive crossover parts - but why? (I have seen passive crossovers a big a large picnic coolers!)  An electronic two way crossover will set you back $100 or so (the price of a pair of small Delund caps) and shock you with better sound. Yes, you will have to remove the passive crossovers and add a new set of terminals (use good ones - no magnetic parts) and add an amplifier (don't you have a couple sitting around?) but the results are spectacular for the $$ spent. 

You realize that modern solid state amps have very high "damping factors," right? That means they can control the motion of the loudspeaker and minimizer errors in a speaker's  motion that distort the music they are playing. A passive crossover limits the amount of control the amp can exert because they are inserted in the path between the amp and the speaker's moving (sound producing) parts. Electronic crosovers go between the preamp and power amps and allow direct connection between the amp and speaker's drivers. You think cables make a difference? (They certainly do!) But removing all those parts between the amp and actual drivers that produce the sound is an enormous improvement!  50 watts is plenty for an amp driving tweeters. Try it, you'll like it! Happy Listening.

You were talking 100-250 uf That is huge , what kind of speakers are these ?

most speakers are under 10 uf for the Bass woofer. You can vary the tolerances up to around 3% of the total before it starts effecting the Xover point a decent 1% of the total in a decent poly cap will smooth it out abit , and a good quality 

awg 12 Jantzen inductor open core would do it justice , I don’t use junky 

cheap sledge hammer type a magnet 🧲 with wire wrapped around it .

Jantzen are my favorite and great quality value ratio if you want a quality inductor 

speaker you are keeping . I rebuilt a nice Dynaudio speaker last year ,that I will be selling in the fall it now is called the model 30:$8k  and the Xover use Mundorf Evo caps decent ,but Mundorfs Supreme are their much better line. In parts maybe $400 I spent $1600 just in parts ,a solid 15-20% improvement in fidelity ,

pits the 🧠 or ❤️ of the speaker everythung hood or bad goes through there 

thsts why I always use top solder Cardas or Mundorf, and WBT connectors 

stock connectors on 90% are bright gold over brass , WBT Evo next gen $40 each 

at VH Audio I spent $250: on the WBT classic  no short. Cuts ,Everything counts .!!

Yes x 2.

Like every other component, C & R have interaction with everything else.

You can install "THE BEST" of everything and have an unlistenable system.

A slightly veiled cap maybe just the ticket with a screeching tweeter

Just last week I asked for information about crossovers from B&w, they would not share any details with me except for the crossover point.

So no one has any idea what's in speakers these days.

It's all cheap crap and it's horrifyi…

I would've paid extra to get better quality crossover stuff this is absolutely horrifying

@emergingsoul yeah man me too.  But what sucks is, if you get the opportunity to, more than likely they too are making even more of a profit off of you.  I wish they could increase the quality of crossover components by for example $300 and charge me like $330 more. Not like $600, whereas before it would be $30 in crossover components and they charged me $60….