Streamers and their Fuses


I purchased the Aurender W20SE back in August and ran it on the stock 5 cent generic 2 amp 5mmx20mm slow burn fuse in it’s FURUTECH FI-03 Rhodium plated IEC Inlet. It sounds amazing in stock form the last 3 months… But 3 weeks ago I decided to upgrade the fuse in the W20SE to the Magic Audio Masterpiece M-1. The difference is not subtle. It feels like the potential of the streamer is unlocked, the detail, clarity and richness of tonal transparency is entirely transformed. My goal in HiFi is always holographic imaging of accurate instrument separation, this was improved as well. It is such a startling discovery I cannot listen to my Jay’s Audio MK3-CDT3 CD transport anymore, whereas before the fuse upgrade the CD transport was clearly the higher quality sound reproduction.

 

Anyone else experienced shocking results from upgrading their streamer’s fuse? I’d love to hear your feedback. All I can say is after burning this Audio Magic m-1 masterpiece in for a week it’s the only fuse I’ll put in my HiFi gear from now on. The purple fuse from Synergistic Research was my previous go to, but the audio magic m-1 is far superior in every possible way imho. 😉

128x128brandonhifi

Yes you right, will only do local pickup . But i see the dutch and dutch 8c don't really need a streamer like N30SA after using it with roon activated on it.

@brandonhifi 

Interesting feedback on W20SE vs N30SA. Did you compare both side by side in your system? 

@lalitk I listened to the N30 at his house on his system, about a 300k system, all flagship components, flagship cables, the W20SE is immensely more transparent and detailed and holographic on my 55K lifepo4 system. He's an Aurender licensed dealer. He confirmed the benefits of the W20SE with lifepo4 batteries over the N30. I really believe the next phase of HiFi will require Lifepo4 power, it's not even remotely close even with a Shanyata Everest and 10k in cables.

Hey @brandonhifi - I think you may have misunderstood what I was saying about the W20SE and N30SA. The N30SA is typically more revealing and dynamic compared to the W20SE, which is more refined and relaxed. You’re right that the battery management in the W20SE makes it so that an external power cable will not matter as much, and that it reduces the noise coming from the power line. But if the power is clean, then the N30SA should be more revealing and more dynamic.

To be fair, your assessment is about my system voicing as a whole, not about the N30SA vs the W20SE. You did not hear both units in the same system, and it was the only time you ever heard my system. I also cannot confirm whether my system is less transparent as I haven’t heard your system, but in my experience in different rooms and systems, imaging and staging are portrayed differently. When that does not match a listener’s expectations, sometimes that is perceived as worse. Often I find I have to listen to a system for a while so I can acclimate to what it is trying to achieve. You only sat there for two, maybe three songs.

I’m just being objective, hope it doesn’t tarnish anything between us as I’d like to keep contact and maybe one day soon hear your system so we can compare notes!

I’ve had my W20SE for about 1-1/2 years in my basement system and a Grimm Audio MU1 in my living room system.  I believe in the benefits of fuses but I’m surprised that it would benefit the sound quality of a W20SE due to its audio circuitry running off the internal batteries.  As mentioned, power cords don’t make much difference on the the W20SE so why would a fuse?  As I understand it, the incoming power is used to charge 1 of the 2 batteries.  One battery is always charging while the other battery is supplying power to the audio circuit.