Streamers and their Fuses


I purchased the Aurender W20SE back in August and ran it on the stock 5 cent generic 2 amp 5mmx20mm slow burn fuse in it’s FURUTECH FI-03 Rhodium plated IEC Inlet. It sounds amazing in stock form the last 3 months… But 3 weeks ago I decided to upgrade the fuse in the W20SE to the Magic Audio Masterpiece M-1. The difference is not subtle. It feels like the potential of the streamer is unlocked, the detail, clarity and richness of tonal transparency is entirely transformed. My goal in HiFi is always holographic imaging of accurate instrument separation, this was improved as well. It is such a startling discovery I cannot listen to my Jay’s Audio MK3-CDT3 CD transport anymore, whereas before the fuse upgrade the CD transport was clearly the higher quality sound reproduction.

 

Anyone else experienced shocking results from upgrading their streamer’s fuse? I’d love to hear your feedback. All I can say is after burning this Audio Magic m-1 masterpiece in for a week it’s the only fuse I’ll put in my HiFi gear from now on. The purple fuse from Synergistic Research was my previous go to, but the audio magic m-1 is far superior in every possible way imho. 😉

128x128brandonhifi

Showing 10 responses by lalitk

While I never tried Audio Magic fuses, I always preferred HiFi Tuning Fuses over few I’ve tried in the past (including SR). My go to reference for Aurender streamers (N10 and N20) is HiFi Tuning Supreme Cu…a slightly warmer and more organic and detailed presentation over the stock fuse, definitely worth the money, IMHO.

PS: Brace yourself, fuse discussions here are hotly debated :-)

@brandonhifi 

Just looked at your system, loved the attention to detail! A system like yours can greatly benefit from an external clock. IME, you can simultaneously elevate the performance of both MK3-CDT3 and W20SE. You may think the internal OCXO clocks are more than adequate but you have not realize the true potential of aforementioned components until you heard them with an external clock. There is a reason both of these components are equipped with external clock inputs! 

@brandonhifi

I am using Merging Technologies +clock for my Merging DAC and Aurender N20. I am very likely to upgrade to either W20SE or N30SA sometime next year. Can’t quite make up my mind :-)

https://nadac.merging.com/product/merging-clock

“I got the Paul Pang Audio PPA OCXO 10M Master Clock for $575 here on Audiogon.”

@brandonhifi

I hate to be the one to say this…I looked up the specs of PPA, for a 10MHz clock, -120dBc/Hz at 10Hz offset is not very impressive--especially since the specified performance of the W20SE/MK3-CDT3 OCXO clocks itself is likely better. Not to not mention the variables of external BNC cable and subpar internal cabling/parts in these clocks.

In any case, I recommend buying high quality BNC 75ohms ‘clock’ cables so you can use them with another clock incase you don’t hear any improvements with PPA. Looking forward to your findings with PPA clock. Good luck!

Aurender N30SA can be magnificent in an ultra high resolution system; a hard-fact that owners of self powered, DSP driven speakers cannot simply comprehend. 

@brandonhifi 

Interesting feedback on W20SE vs N30SA. Did you compare both side by side in your system? 

@brandonhifi 

A possible explanation would be, W20SE is not completely off the grid. Only its audio circuitry is being fueled by set of lifepo4 batteries. Hence the impact of a fuse and a PC is clearly audible through your fine system. Did you receive your PP Clock, what are your early impressions? 

@brandonhifi 

Thanks for the update. Looking forward to your impressions with one of the finest master clock currently available. 

Brandon @brandonhifi 

Thanks for the update. I am not surprised as your feedback aligns with mine on N29 fed by external clock. I may reach out to you on clock cables once I get my N30SA. Enjoy your fabulous system!