Power cord choice?


Hoping to change (or upgrade) my current PC in use with my ARC CD3 Mk2. Currently I'm using a Locus Designs Polestar and setting a limit $600 max. I'd like to find a cord that can get more micro details from the ARC yet, I'd like to retain the smoothness but, try to open the sound stage and get a little more bottom in doing so. I listen to Alt rock (Sir Sly, The Killers, Gargage), rock, blues using Classe CAP 151 integrated and Apogee Slant 6s. I know this is subjective but, I'm also doing my best to work with my budget constraints and I'm not going to change if the improvement would just be slightly incremental. I'd like suggestions to consider, please.
rsjm80
Thyname…. The reason why that people jump in is because much of what people talk about when discussing inner K’NEX and power cords is ridiculous. Most people that have knowledge of basic science can’t believe that people are talking the way that they do. That’s why I offered up the idea of peoples sinuses make a difference and how something sounds. That makes more sense then some of the explanations I’ve read about how a power cord or an IC can make a difference.
A properly made power cord and an IC not only can make a difference, they do make a difference.

You are free to believe whatever you choose.


@ izjjzi

You were extremely fortunate to make your first foray into power cords with the Viborg 1501 with the top of the line copper (non plated) Viborg connectors! As you say, there are diamonds in the rough, and that particular Viborg cable is an unbelievable value. 

I became interested in the Viborg connectors, and subsequently the Viborg cable, about a year ago now and built a number of cords using their top of the line non plated connectors and their 1606 cable. I've cryogenically treated all of my cabling, receptacles, etc. for the past 20 years so I did this with the 1606 DIY builds (which came in around $100-$125 Canadian depending on length) and those cables were outstanding value for the money. 

The 1501 fully assembled from Viborg is even better though and ridiculously low priced in terms of its performance, particularly after cryo. I purchased my first one a few months ago, the 2nd arrived and was cryoed and just went into service about 10 days ago and I broke down and ordered a 3rd which shipped in the past few days. It is only marginally more expensive than the 1606 DIY builds I did. 

To put things into perspective, I loaned out another DIY build to a friend of mine which was inferior to the DIY 1606 builds (and which the 1606's replaced) and significantly inferior to the cryoed 1501's I now have in use a few months ago and he tried that cord on his monster Bryston power amp. He felt that the one I loaned him was equal to a Nordost Brahma power cord that he had on the Bryston and that power cord retails at $1400 U.S. 

And the cryoed Viborg 1501 is in another league altogether. 

Diamond in the rough indeed. 

FWIW, the top of the line Viborg connectors are also available plated in silver, gold or rhodium. I stuck with the copper as I wanted the most neutral presentation. 


Post removed 
To the less experienced audiophiles, please keep an open mind to the concept that everything matters to the sound of your system. The folks who say power cords and ethernet cables don't make any difference should not be making that claim. They don't have your ears, your room or your component mix. Please continue to try things that interest you and take advantage of money back offers. In terms of PCs I didn't have any interest in spending my money on them, but I have educated myself the hard way by trying lots of different PCs. I caution the folks who don't hear differences about making blanket claims about cables. Two points, first, your system has to be at a resolution level to hear finer differences (obvious, but true). Secondly you may need to go high enough into the product line to get to the higher form factor of a companies technology. I entered the PC market with 5 $500 PCs and a $3500 power conditioner. I was very ho hum about the improvements. I might have contributed to a forum at that point and said don't do it, not worth it. I was persuaded by a friend to go higher up the line. The improvements these more expensive PCs have made are easily equal to a preamp, DAC or amp swap. (unfortunately they were as expensive as a component swap). My advice to the OP is to try loaners or buy used PCs on AG at 50% or less of retail from bigger name vendors and try them. List it if you don't like it and it won't cost much of anything for the home trial. Plus you are getting higher up the product line than you could have at retail. Many of the cables are great cables they just need to "fit" with your components.