Power cord choice?


Hoping to change (or upgrade) my current PC in use with my ARC CD3 Mk2. Currently I'm using a Locus Designs Polestar and setting a limit $600 max. I'd like to find a cord that can get more micro details from the ARC yet, I'd like to retain the smoothness but, try to open the sound stage and get a little more bottom in doing so. I listen to Alt rock (Sir Sly, The Killers, Gargage), rock, blues using Classe CAP 151 integrated and Apogee Slant 6s. I know this is subjective but, I'm also doing my best to work with my budget constraints and I'm not going to change if the improvement would just be slightly incremental. I'd like suggestions to consider, please.
rsjm80
turnbowm
Furman uses the term "Power Factor" while Audioquest calls it "Power Correction."
I think you’re spending a little too much time reading manufacturer’s brochures and not enough time understanding what’s going on. Audioquest can use whatever marketing lingo it likes, but "Power Factor" is the accepted and proper term for describing the relative phase between voltage and current, which in residential environments is typically 1 or very, very close to it.
... energy storage is provided by large capacitors that can satisfy the dynamic current demands of power amps ...
Yes, that’s what capacitors do.
Without the caps, the very component (inductor) that limits the surge current also limits the dynamic current that is available to the amp.
If you think all power conditioners rely on inductors that compromise PF, you’re mistaken. You're also mistaken if you isolate PF as the most critical factor in delivering full power.
The Puritan 156 was my 2nd choice. It is a very good unit. But I passed on it because it had (9000A) surge suppression chokes or the like and instead had an electrician install a Seimens FS140 with 140,000A protection at the breaker box.

I would look into PI Audio's UberBuss. It has independant outlets, a power factor correction of 1 and a non metal exterior box to eliminate Eddy currents and more. Each outlet handles 20A+( to Puritan's 15A). The UberBuss can actually output 40A+ spikes....It cost less than the Puritan and IMHO is a better power conditioner.

Get a Triode Wire Labs High Power Digital Ameican power cable with the $ you saved and you'll be in the best situation.

Look into the UberBuss before you buy.
cleeds3,919 posts07-25-2021 10:05am"If you think all power conditioners rely on inductors that compromise PF, you’re mistaken. You're also mistaken if you isolate PF as the most critical factor in delivering full power."

You seem to be making some very broad assumptions which are simply wrong. I'm well acquainted with series-mode and parallel-mode surge suppressors/conditioners and their design differences.

You seem to have an argumentative nature. Is everything all right?
@cleeds   I agree that no one test can be held up as universally true.  However, that doesn't explain why there is no apparent difference in sound when the new high-end cable is put into service?  How can the improvement in sound not be obvious to everyone who listens?  I live with the belief that every upgrade I've made to my system has provided a "small" improvement, while being hard/impossible to discern on it's own, the accumulated impact of many changes is much better sound.  I have simply become accustomed to the results and so don't remember how lacking it was previously.  This stops me from opening a vein when I think of the $$$$$ I've spent chasing the dream.  Hmmmm, new Mercedes or a set of Legacy V speakers?  ha ha ha 
I went with the Puritan PSM 156 because I don’t require more than a kilowatt of power at any device, and certainly not the nearly 1.4kW the power conditioner can deliver.

110VAC = approx. 69.96VDC after rectification .
so rounded up to 70VDC x 15A = 1050 Watts

70VDC x 20A (it has a 20A power cord that comes with it) = approx 1.4kW

So I have a two by 400Watt power amplifier, a fanless PC as a server, a DAC, a TV as my monitor and I’m way below that. It pays to do some math to work out your current load on your system, there's nothing wrong with overkill, and there's nothing wrong with having just a little more than you need either. I actually have 114.9VAC measured at the outlet, which equates to more Watts. The work done is the Voltage multiplied by the Amperes, or electrical pressure by the electron flow, known as Watts.

However, if the PI Audio UberBuss conditioner works better for less money, that’s remarkable, a remarkable deal indeed.