Amp and Pre-Amp suggestions needed


I just picked up what will hopefully be my end-game speakers. They are TLS-1's based on the old Ohm F design, produced by Dale Harder of HHR Exotic speakers. I will probably share more in a separate speaker thread later.

It's become readily apparent that my Rogue Cronus Magnum III integrated is not cutting it with these speakers. 

I am looking for suggestions on a tube-pre and solid state amp separates that will drive the TLS-1's to nirvana. 

Here are my must haves:

- I want tone controls (treble/ bass)
- Again tube pre
- SS amp
- At least 150 wpc
- Want to keep my spend under $5k (new or used)

Yes, I already have Dale's recommendation, but I'm looking for other points of view here.

Thanks,
Joe
128x128audionoobie
I hope you are not going to fall for the watts per channel trap as the only way to measure an amps “power” and ability to drive a speaker or “load”.
I could steer you to some high power quality amps that only put our 25 watts per channel that matched with those speakers will make your ears bleed with a sweet sound.  Then you could by a class D amp that will put out 900 watts per that will sound like an old am car radio.
You need to look at an amps “power” like we do a car engine. I could give you a car that will go 0 to 100 in 4 seconds( horsepower) but could not pull a plow. Then I could give you a tractors that will pull a tree stump out of the ground (torque) but will do 0 to 60 in a day. Finding the right amp to make your speakers sing will involve the entire equation of quality clean watts per channel (horsepower), and power supply, voltage rails, heat control, power efficiency (torque). There are plenty to choose from so start auditioning with your speakers and enjoy the ride. But most of all don’t fall into the trap that has been set.
If referring to a trap being set by the Parasound A21+ that’s just garbage. That amp puts out real, usable watts. It will drive anything without a blink. If not referring to the A21+... never mind. I do agree however there are many great lower wattage amps that have ample push... I own one.
We used to use McIntosh 75 watt tube amps to push double 15 low range cabinets. And 10 cell horns. These were events wit thousands of people outdoors.  Watts are not the only tool in the toolbox to figure out what might work.  Its not just horsepower that makes the car faster..  Currently using a Parasound pre and Arcam amps. No complaints.  
Having just two weeks ago upgraded my Naim NAP DR 300 amp to  Parasound JC1+ monoblocs for my Wilson Sasha2s I have to comment that technically the Naim had "enough" power and drove high current into low ohms, but I was not getting anywhere near the performance the Sasha 2s are capable of. I can highly recommend the Parasound JC__+ stuff, and regardless of brand I recommend giving your new speakers a ton of current. This is age old advice about lots of high current, but I just experienced it in front of my own ears. Also the sound quality at low levels was also greatly improved. Good luck.
@ audionoobie
The HHR TLS-1 mfr suggests 400 watts rms which suggests you need considerable power to run these speakers.

At $5k, getting an integrated amp rather than separates is likely better price/performance alternative unless you plan to swap out the pre /or amp in the future.

Tone controls are usually frowned upon audiophiles who believe preserving the audio signal through the audio chain is the upmost importance.  Adding tone controls adds another layer into the audio chain which would likely degrade the sound which is audible in highly resolving audio systems.  On the other hand for some it's worth the sonic tradeoff (if any depending on the to resolution of the system and the quality of the execution of the tone controls) adjust the treble/bass to suit your tastes - different strokes....