I live Los Angeles. Power grid from hell. My experience with conditioners is limited to the rackmount Furmans I used to use in all my live situations, but this was in the 90s, I have however read loads in the last month of quarantine about the offerings new from Shunyata, AudioQuest, Equitech, IsoTek, PS, etc etc etc... but also considered just installing the new line from the power box with some of those Furutech wall sockets and starting there, seeing how much noise I can reduce. I can do the electrical myself and me out the door for a couple hundred.
Advice/Warnings for a newbie
Hi
I've had way too much free time and gone down a few rabbit holes purchasing some older gear, some of which I've got a little experience with and some none... but was curious, because I am not the best technically, if any of the more seasoned audiophiles might have any advice regarding my chain. I'm replacing my 30w Pioneer receiver with separates (put all my specs in the below list) – I got the preamp as a family hand-me-down and I've just bought the monoblocks (having service done now) so I've not heard it all together yet. The player and speakers I've been using forever. But will I OK in terms of matching impedances, gain, etc? Oh, and I'm installing a dedicated line for the monoblocks and was looking at a Niagara 1200 as power conditioner for the rest.... any tips greatly appreciated!
Technics SL1200M3D
Tonearm: Jelco 750D
External PSU: Paul Hynes SR4
+
Cart: Nagaoka MP150
Type: Moving Iron
Output voltage: 1kHz, 5cm/sec:4.5mV
Frequency range: 20-20kHz
Material: diamond, nude
Stylus type: elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 mil
Tracking force range: 1.5–2g
Tracking force, recommended: 1.8g
Recommended load capacitance: 150-200pF
>>
Phono Stage: RCM Sensor 2
Input: RCA – Balanced and Unbalanced (selectable via switch)
Output: Balanced XLR / Unbalanced (single ended)
Input sensitivity: 0.3–5mV (selectable in 7 steps)
Gain: 52–76dB (2 VRMS output at 1 kHz)
Input impedance: 20–47kΩ (selectable in 8 steps)
Input capacitance: 150 pF
THD: 0,01% (1kHz)
RIAA linearity: +/-0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
Nominal output: 2V rms
Max. output level: 8V rms
Output impedance: 70 ohm
S/N: 85dB (lowest gain settings)
RIAA linearity: +/- 0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
>>
Cello Palette Preamplifier
Maximum output: 8V RMS (single-ended), 16V RMS (balanced)
Line Gain (Switchable): 0dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 18dB
THD (ref. 6V): 0.084%
Input impedance (Unbalanced): 1MΩ
Output Impedance: 150Ω
Running Balanced into >>
Pass Labs Aleph 2 (Monoblocks)
Topology: Class A, single-ended
Power Output: 100W into 8Ω / 200W into 4Ω
Maximum Output: 10A, 40V (Peak)
Gain (Balanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced, XLR Jumpered): 26dB
Distortion (100W, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz): 0.5%
Input Impedance (Balanced): 25kΩ
Input Impedance (Unbalanced): 10kΩ
Output Impedance: 0.1Ω
Damping Factor: 100
Common Mode Rejection: 60dB
Power Consumption: 300w
Output Noise: 600μV
DC Offset: <100mV
>>
A/D/S L1290 Loudspeakers
Frequency responce: 40hz–27khz,
Impedance: 8Ω nominal
Efficiency: 90dB SPL from 2.8 VRMS (1W)
Crossovers: 500hz and 5khz, 12dB/Octave slopes
I've had way too much free time and gone down a few rabbit holes purchasing some older gear, some of which I've got a little experience with and some none... but was curious, because I am not the best technically, if any of the more seasoned audiophiles might have any advice regarding my chain. I'm replacing my 30w Pioneer receiver with separates (put all my specs in the below list) – I got the preamp as a family hand-me-down and I've just bought the monoblocks (having service done now) so I've not heard it all together yet. The player and speakers I've been using forever. But will I OK in terms of matching impedances, gain, etc? Oh, and I'm installing a dedicated line for the monoblocks and was looking at a Niagara 1200 as power conditioner for the rest.... any tips greatly appreciated!
Technics SL1200M3D
Tonearm: Jelco 750D
External PSU: Paul Hynes SR4
+
Cart: Nagaoka MP150
Type: Moving Iron
Output voltage: 1kHz, 5cm/sec:4.5mV
Frequency range: 20-20kHz
Material: diamond, nude
Stylus type: elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 mil
Tracking force range: 1.5–2g
Tracking force, recommended: 1.8g
Recommended load capacitance: 150-200pF
>>
Phono Stage: RCM Sensor 2
Input: RCA – Balanced and Unbalanced (selectable via switch)
Output: Balanced XLR / Unbalanced (single ended)
Input sensitivity: 0.3–5mV (selectable in 7 steps)
Gain: 52–76dB (2 VRMS output at 1 kHz)
Input impedance: 20–47kΩ (selectable in 8 steps)
Input capacitance: 150 pF
THD: 0,01% (1kHz)
RIAA linearity: +/-0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
Nominal output: 2V rms
Max. output level: 8V rms
Output impedance: 70 ohm
S/N: 85dB (lowest gain settings)
RIAA linearity: +/- 0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
>>
Cello Palette Preamplifier
Maximum output: 8V RMS (single-ended), 16V RMS (balanced)
Line Gain (Switchable): 0dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 18dB
THD (ref. 6V): 0.084%
Input impedance (Unbalanced): 1MΩ
Output Impedance: 150Ω
Running Balanced into >>
Pass Labs Aleph 2 (Monoblocks)
Topology: Class A, single-ended
Power Output: 100W into 8Ω / 200W into 4Ω
Maximum Output: 10A, 40V (Peak)
Gain (Balanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced, XLR Jumpered): 26dB
Distortion (100W, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz): 0.5%
Input Impedance (Balanced): 25kΩ
Input Impedance (Unbalanced): 10kΩ
Output Impedance: 0.1Ω
Damping Factor: 100
Common Mode Rejection: 60dB
Power Consumption: 300w
Output Noise: 600μV
DC Offset: <100mV
>>
A/D/S L1290 Loudspeakers
Frequency responce: 40hz–27khz,
Impedance: 8Ω nominal
Efficiency: 90dB SPL from 2.8 VRMS (1W)
Crossovers: 500hz and 5khz, 12dB/Octave slopes
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- 35 posts total
Obviously roberjerkman's system or equipment is not good enough to hear differences, or he has not learned how to listen for differences.For years i was in the same situation, It was my equipment. I promise you there are differences in the sound of cables . It may not always be easily discernible and obvious. You also have to learn how to listen for differences. Your brain cannot always listen to or pick up all differences at the same time ...like soundstage depth, height, imaging ... Then you have dynamics , Attack, Decay, Sustain and Release. Then you have to listen at all the different freq Ranges.Some cables present a more laid back presentation... Some are more of a front row , up close presentation . Some have extra energy in the upper mids. or some in the mid bass. some have a much more prominent Bass Some are more detailed..etc..etc.etc. It does take some education or experience as to what to listen for. this can help http://djfrobot.blogspot.com/2010/04/eq-frequency-chart-for-instruments.html |
One 20A line is not overkill, and may help. The reason I say "may" is its hard to know how the house and panel is wired. Often times systems are plugged into ordinary wall outlets, which because houses are wired for average use and to save money this could mean the AC goes from one outlet to another with maybe a half a dozen outlets on the same circuit. Worst case the system is the last one. In this case the line will probably be a big improvement. If you DIY. The minute you have to pay an electrician then there's usually half a dozen things you could do for less and hear a lot more improvement. The reason I know, I've actually done this stuff, run the lines- and more than once- myself. You have good reasons for keeping what you have, so what I would do is avoid anything similar to the analytical sound you have in favor of more neutral (in the true sense of the word) wire like Synergistic. This will feel warm relative to the sterile gear you have now but since you do listen to actual music then I think that in time you will come to realize what you now think of as color and rolloff is actually a more natural sound and what you are hearing is not less detail but less etch and glare. Take your time, try and listen and when reading pay attention to how things sound not how things measure. Here are the specs that matter: speaker sensitivity, you want 90dB or more. Amp power is almost irrelevant, since if you got at least 90dB speakers then anything over 20 or so watts is good. Cartridge output, a little more complicated but similar to speakers a medium output greatly simplifies amp selection. That's about it for specs! And yes my system really does reflect that philosophy. |
Yes, definitely put it together and listen for an extended time (weeks) before you buy more stuff. The extra power from the amps should make a substantial difference in the sound. I would have some kind of protection from power spikes (whether the Niagara or something else, maybe a power regenerator instead - make sure you have enough outlets, and not all of them are filtered on most units), and the isolated line is a good idea. I have my equipment on a dedicated line and the voltage still fluctuates. Looks like you upgraded the turntable where people mostly suggest (the tonearm), but you might want to look at a cartridge upgrade in the future. Depending on what you listen to, a subwoofer (or 2) would fill out the bottom. Do your tweaks one at a time to see if they make a difference you can hear, but have fun and enjoy your system, most of all! |
- 35 posts total