Advice/Warnings for a newbie


Hi

I've had way too much free time and gone down a few rabbit holes purchasing some older gear, some of which I've got a little experience with and some none... but was curious, because I am not the best technically, if any of the more seasoned audiophiles might have any advice regarding my chain. I'm replacing my 30w Pioneer receiver with separates (put all my specs in the below list) – I got the preamp as a family hand-me-down and I've just bought the monoblocks (having service done now) so I've not heard it all together yet. The player and speakers I've been using forever. But will I OK in terms of matching impedances, gain, etc? Oh, and I'm installing a dedicated line for the monoblocks and was looking at a Niagara 1200 as power conditioner for the rest.... any tips greatly appreciated!


Technics SL1200M3D
Tonearm: Jelco 750D
External PSU: Paul Hynes SR4
+
Cart: Nagaoka MP150
Type: Moving Iron
Output voltage: 1kHz, 5cm/sec:4.5mV
Frequency range: 20-20kHz
Material: diamond, nude
Stylus type: elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 mil
Tracking force range: 1.5–2g
Tracking force, recommended: 1.8g
Recommended load capacitance: 150-200pF

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Phono Stage: RCM Sensor 2 
Input: RCA – Balanced and Unbalanced (selectable via switch)
Output: Balanced XLR / Unbalanced (single ended)
Input sensitivity: 0.3–5mV (selectable in 7 steps)
Gain: 52–76dB (2 VRMS output at 1 kHz)
Input impedance: 20–47kΩ (selectable in 8 steps)
Input capacitance: 150 pF
THD: 0,01% (1kHz)
RIAA linearity: +/-0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
Nominal output: 2V rms
Max. output level: 8V rms
Output impedance: 70 ohm
S/N: 85dB (lowest gain settings)
RIAA linearity: +/- 0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)

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Cello Palette Preamplifier
Maximum output: 8V RMS (single-ended), 16V RMS (balanced)
Line Gain (Switchable): 0dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 18dB
THD (ref. 6V): 0.084%
Input impedance (Unbalanced): 1MΩ
Output Impedance: 150Ω

Running Balanced into >>

Pass Labs Aleph 2 (Monoblocks)
Topology: Class A, single-ended
Power Output: 100W into 8Ω / 200W into 4Ω
Maximum Output: 10A, 40V (Peak)
Gain (Balanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced, XLR Jumpered): 26dB
Distortion (100W, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz): 0.5%
Input Impedance (Balanced): 25kΩ
Input Impedance (Unbalanced): 10kΩ
Output Impedance: 0.1Ω
Damping Factor: 100
Common Mode Rejection: 60dB
Power Consumption: 300w
Output Noise: 600μV
DC Offset: <100mV

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A/D/S L1290 Loudspeakers
Frequency responce: 40hz–27khz,
Impedance: 8Ω nominal
Efficiency: 90dB SPL from 2.8 VRMS (1W)
Crossovers: 500hz and 5khz, 12dB/Octave slopes

au_lait

Showing 3 responses by millercarbon

One 20A line is not overkill, and may help. The reason I say "may" is its hard to know how the house and panel is wired. Often times systems are plugged into ordinary wall outlets, which because houses are wired for average use and to save money this could mean the AC goes from one outlet to another with maybe a half a dozen outlets on the same circuit. Worst case the system is the last one. In this case the line will probably be a big improvement. If you DIY. The minute you have to pay an electrician then there's usually half a dozen things you could do for less and hear a lot more improvement.

The reason I know, I've actually done this stuff, run the lines- and more than once- myself.

You have good reasons for keeping what you have, so what I would do is avoid anything similar to the analytical sound you have in favor of more neutral (in the true sense of the word) wire like Synergistic. This will feel warm relative to the sterile gear you have now but since you do listen to actual music then I think that in time you will come to realize what you now think of as color and rolloff is actually a more natural sound and what you are hearing is not less detail but less etch and glare. 

Take your time, try and listen and when reading pay attention to how things sound not how things measure. Here are the specs that matter: speaker sensitivity, you want 90dB or more. Amp power is almost irrelevant, since if you got at least 90dB speakers then anything over 20 or so watts is good. Cartridge output, a little more complicated but similar to speakers a medium output greatly simplifies amp selection. That's about it for specs! And yes my system really does reflect that philosophy.
Thanks mrdecibel he did misunderstand and yes everything matters. The problem in situations like this where the OP doesn't know and if I was there and could see and hear it would be easy but going by partial info its impossible. So my default is replace any and all freebie patch cords, rubber power cords, and ordinary speaker wire. 

In this case the OP is so far off base- dedicated lines, a zillion meaningless specifications but not one word how it sounds or what he is after- it seemed a waste to try and say anything beyond yes power cords do make a difference.

When you do hook all that up au_lait very likely you will find its pretty good but awful lean, excessively detailed and hifi sounding. That's just what you have. Some of that stuff is very well regarded but taken all together inappropriate and could probably be sold for enough to buy a much better sounding integrated amp. This will save you a lot of money because power cords do make a difference and the same $1200 that will buy you three $400 power cords for the pre/monoblocks will buy you one insanely good $1200 power cord. By insanely good I mean so freaking good even the near deaf boobs who think power cords are zero zilch nada will have no choice but to crap their drawers and slink off in shame.

Separates can be wonderful but only if you are made of money.
Logic 101, pop quiz, (courtesy of roberjerman):

1. All components come with free power cords included. Free.

2. Don't waste money on power cords! From my long experience they have nada, zilch, zero effect on sound quality

3. Regarding ICs and speaker wire: the least-costly offerings from Kimber are again sane and cost-effective choices

True or false: It is cost-effective to pay money for something that has nada, zilch, zero effect on sound quality.