Best way to Crossover JL Audio F110 into system


I just purchased a JL Audio sub and want to use a crossover to maximize both the sub and my Sonus Faber Olympica III's. I know that JL has a crossover for 3k, but was looking for "better and possibly more economical" way to achieve this. 

Any my feedback would be appreciated. 

Regards,

hambon
Not sure either of these helps with your budget question, but I have used them both with the JLA F110 to great results, and I offer for your consideration.  Pass Labs makes a great external crossover, the XVR1, which although a bit complicated to set up, once you get it right, its terrific.  Look around for a used one (or try Reno).   Also the McIntosh MEN 220 room correction unit is quite good, and does a lot more than just cross-over to your sub.  Again, find one used and its a lot of value add for the $.  

Finally (and separately)  and with all due respect, as to the suggestion above from a member that you should drop the sub because your "SFs completely out class it;" well, that is complete nonsense.  I'm not comparing SF with JLA in saying this, what I'm saying is that having a great sub (which you have) well integrated into your system will, in fact, enhance the  overall performance and experience.  Your SFs are very nice to be sure, but they will be even nicer with the sub, assuming it is properly worked into the mix.   
@whitecap , great suggestion on crossovers.  

I may pick your brains in a week or so. I am integrating my JL f212v2 with Mod LS36.5. The Mod is on its way with a customized Balanced line level outputs to drive my sub. I am hoping that 212 internal crossover should be adequate to strike a good balance with my mains. 


as an owner (soon to be former) of F110s w/ magico S3s, i think you should try to use the 24db x-over slope on the subs, the microphone room node optimizer engine, and your speakers run full range. then the issue is simply where to set the x-over point on the subs (as at 24db slope / octave, they will drop off fast). this was GREATLY preferred in my rig vs a passive x-over before the amp to the mains. there is no perfect part. dont screw with the signal path if at all possible. and w/ the F110s, its easily possible
I previously owned a Velodyne DD-18 and had an opportunity to compare a JL Audio F113 at home. Originally, I placed the DD-18 on a small moving dolly with a long interconnect and used the crawl test to initially locate the heavy sub.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3oLLMgS-M

Then using Velodyne's multi band Manual Room Optimization with a laptop found its most desirable location for my room. I used this same general area to compare the F113.

Using the ARO system and despite its smaller driver the F113 was a formidable subwoofer. Using the Velodyne Optimization I could visually and sonically compare the ARO equalization. Defeating the ARO and feeding the F113 the Velodyne Optimization Manual equalization I was able to improve both the main speaker integration and personalize the overall response of the F113.

I've since replaced the DD-18 with two DD-12 Plus and I believe JL Audio has also greatly improved its ARO system with a version II.

When using a single subwoofer I have found that finding its optimum (or at least close to it) location in a particular room can greatly reduce the amount of equalization needed for better system integration. The ARO system or trial and error of your F110s manual controls may be all you need. The JL can be crossed over from 30-130Hz using a 12or 24dB slope. 

"Finally (and separately) and with all due respect, as to the suggestion above from a member that you should drop the sub because your "SFs completely out class it;" well, that is complete nonsense. I’m not comparing SF with JLA in saying this, what I’m saying is that having a great sub (which you have) well integrated into your system will, in fact, enhance the overall performance and experience. Your SFs are very nice to be sure, but they will be even nicer with the sub, assuming it is properly worked into the mix. "

You can call it nonsense but the reality is there’s no reason

to expect the sub to integrate well. You're taking a 14k speaker that is made by a company that believes in giving they're products a "house sound", and matching it with a budget HT sub. And lets not forget the amp. Is the amp in the sub going to match the speed, definition and power of what the OP is using on the SF's? Taking both the differences in the amps and speakers overall quality and performance into consideration, please explain to me why you would expect a seamless crossover and equal sound quality from both units?

Yes, the OP already has the sub, so try it. But the odds are, the match will most likely end up sounding like a car stereo, and not a high end system. Common sense, at least to me, would be to match the speakers with a sub of similar quality.