Your journey with lower-watt tube amps -- Can a kit be good enough?


Looking for stories about your low-watt amp journeys.

Here's the situation: I have new speakers, 97 db. Trying them with lower watt tube amps (45/211, 300b, etc) seems generally wise. I am attempting to borrow some from audiophiles in the area. 

The horizon beyond trying these things involves actually buying some. I'm looking at a budget limit of about $5k.

Curious as to folks' experience with lower-watt amp kits vs. those of good makers (e.g. Dennis Had, etc.).

If you have any thoughts about the following, I'd be interested:

Did you start out with a kit and then get dissatisfied? Why?

Did you compare kits vs. pre-made and find big differences?

Did you find you could get the equivalent level of quality in a kit for much less than the same pre-made version? How about kit vs. used?

Also: did you find there was a difference between "point to point wiring" vs. "PCB" in these various permutations?

I realize that there are good kits and bad ones, good pre-made amps and bad ones. I'm hoping you'll be comparing units which seem at comparable levels of quality and price-points.

Thanks.

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@larryi Decades ago I put myself through engineering school by working as a repair technician at Allied Radio Shack. I saw equipment that clearly was not built with the ability to easily repair it in mind. Electronic components fail no matter how well you vet them or how well you rate them in the circuit. IMO/IME easy repair should always be high on the list when laying out a circuit. 

If you do it right and use good quality boards the repair time is about the same (if you do a neat job) whether circuit board or hand-wired.

Hi @atmasphere 

Thank you for your advice. I can try it if I build a new amplifier.

So. Do you think the issue is not voltage swing of driver but the current and power it should drive on capacitive load. And the power is function of the voltage swing in squire.

Do you think the issue is not voltage swing of driver but the current and power it should drive on capacitive load.

@alexberger Generally speaking, yes. Specifically you want to be able to swing the Voltage without distortion. To do that the source that does the swinging must be able to provide the current needed, if any. Power triodes tend to have a bit of grid current anyway even if you aren't driving them positive with respect to the cathode; some of this is due to grid capacitance.

The bottom line is a gutsy driver is needed when driving power triodes of any kind. That is why RC coupling is not the best solution- you use either an interstage transformer or direct-couple; the latter being lower distortion since its a much easier load to drive for the Voltage amplifier (cathode followers tend to have a very high input impedance).

Transformers make distortion of their own even if properly driven and loaded and they limit bandwidth. So if you want the best transparency you don't put them in the circuit. 

The real question in my mind is how many different low powered or SET amps does the average audiophile go through before they find the right amp that matches up well with their speakers to their satisfaction, or before giving up?

3-4 seems typical

4-8 not uncommon

10+ for some

..and then others changing speakers along the way 3-4 times too trying to get "there". The designer of my current amps gave up on SET amps after a few decades and told me he prefers a bit higher power ultralinear amp designs with more versatility anyhow. My journey down the SET path was short lived, but enjoyable along the way fwiw.