Dear Dgob: The way to go is taking as a foundation the tonearm effective length and that's all. Yes, you can use that protractor.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Hello Timeltel, Yes I did try both the AT140 and the 155lc on the MR 5.0 and predicatively the 155 sounded the best. All sounded good with a tendency to sizzle on certain recordings. I have since changed amplifiers and will revisit the MR and it's variants latter.
I am currently beginning to listen to the AT20ss stylus on the Signet TK7su. Is it better than the Original???? Both are very good. We will see.
I have not modified Shindo's 47ohm resistance on my preamp so cartridges are more system dependent than your preamp with adjustable resistance. I need to get off my duff and make the change to 100ohm to be able to make adjustments. The MM/MI still sound excellent at 47ohm.
Danny |
Regards, Acman3: I was wondering if it was just me - the MR 5.0 is pretty "hot" on my EPA-250. Thanks for the reply.
TK7SU/ATN20SS, "Where man has never gone before", you'll share your impression?
Peace, |
Dear Acman3: I think next week I will have on hand that TK7 su that I could try with the 20SS too. We will see.
regards and enjoy the music, raul. |
Dear friends: This is very good performer. You could find the stylus on the net.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
sorry: http://cgi.ebay.com/Micro-Acoustics-MA-3002-Phono-Cartridge-/180638770520?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2a0ee8e558#ht_511wt_1139
R. |
Dear Acman3: And already did it the other way around?, I mean the Signet stylus in the AT 20SS cartridge.
My Signet will comes with the SU ( 3 ) original stylus and with a mint original 2 ( elipthical. ) stylus. We will see how compares in between and in between Signet/AT cartridges but for your first impression on one of those cartridge set ups things has high expectatives.
Regards and enjoy the music, raul. |
Dear Timeltel: +++++ " washer removed, clarity and definition at the extremes (as Raul notes) is improved, seperation and soundstage also. A TK7LCa on a vintage Nagoaka 8.5gm headshell (2.5mm, alu.) drifts towards the analytic... " +++++
after this you states that the 7SU maybe is a little better ( some way, I can´t remember exactly. ) than the 7LCa but both in the same league.
My question is: do you think that we have to hear the SU with the O-ring for that analytic signature could disappear or maybe with different headshell? Halcro, what do you think with this specific cartridge? Acman3, did you test the cartridge with or with out that headshell O-ring ( pardon, I can't remember if you mounted in a removable headshell tonearm design. )?
Thank you in advance.
Regrads and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Regards, Raul: With the o-rings removed, the low mass ADC mag. headshells have responded in a positive manner. An Acutex LPM 315/320-111STR on a vintage 9.5gm Lustre mag. headshell, very thick @4mm, no difference (to my ears). The TK7SU, a different story. Mounted on a Technics alu headshell, there is a definite ringing with the o-ring removed. A Shure ML140HE, also on a Tech. headshell, preferred with the o-ring off. The TK7LCa is on a Nagoaka/Jeweltone 8.5gm mag. headshell, with the o-ring off it gains a distant character. So far, five are off, two reinstalled and one no diff. A current "pet" theory is this is due to stored energy, how it relates to headshell/cartridge/TA mass or build materials, damped if I know.
My TK7e (or with the Shibata SU stylus) offers first a strong bass signature with easy mids and hf's that manage extension in an undistracting manner, the Shibata more refined than the elliptical stylus. The TK7LCa, agile response, smearing is not observable. The mids are at the front, texture, harmonics and resonance a delight. Bass foundations are good, hf detail and clarity is excellent. Overall, the 7SU/e is more relaxed with abundant bass, the 7LCa more resolving with the mids featured. Both are top end, my experience is that the 7SU/E is musical in the "romantic" sense, the 7LCa involving. I'm very curious about the 7SU with the AT20SS/Sa stylus, whichever has the berillium cantilever.
Some elaboration is needed. The TK7e and SU differ only in the stylus, the elliptical that came with mine is used, how much is unknown but I'm certain it's past it's prime. The "SU" Shibata stylus has less than twenty hours on it, it is unlikely it is broken in yet. The later TK7LCa's still pristine original is put aside until a genuine replacement can be found. An ATN155LC stylus is on the cartridge now, nicely run in at about one hundred hours.
Peace, |
Hi Raul, I have a lowly Project 9 tonearm with fixed head-shell so I will not be able to comment regarding o rings.
First impressions are they do sound similar. The 20ss is the more analytical of the two. The notes start and fade faster. The Signet's bass seems deeper and more dense with more overtones. The 20ss's bass is actually just as deep as the Signet it just happens faster. Both have nice detailing with the 20ss notes standing out a little more in the sound stage.
Both are superb!
Looking forward to your remarks when you get your TK7su. What did you think of the differences in the AT20 with the ss stylus and the Signet TK3?
Danny |
Regards Raul, As I mentioned previously, I'm very much in the 'no rubber washers school' when it comes to removable headshells. That presumes of course that the headshell is structurally well designed and has a 'machined' surface at the mating face to the tonearm? The Signet TK-7e and TK-7SU are both superlative performers with a seductive tonal balance across the spectrum. I have yet to hear Timeltel's beloved TK-7LCa but I'd be surprised if it wasn't even sightly more refined? My only caveat with the 7 series is a somewhat reduced width to the soundstage and a slight reduction in air and transparency when compared to say....the TK-5ea & TK-5/155LC (Sigmut)? As the Professor quite rightly proposed though........I haven't met a Signet I didn't like.......except for the TK10ML perhaps? But as always....YMMV. |
Regards, Halcro: Your description of the 7SU/7e as seductive is indicitive of the cart's elusive nature, easy to dismiss as bland at first listen. Imagine a Chenin Blanc, bringing to the table a subtle balance without excessive delicacy, an earthy body with a taste of the oak barrel, managing a blend of the dry and sweet. It took several days of it's subtle infusions before a real appreciation was found, it is appropriate for those with a taste for a velvety presentation.
The TK7LCa is my Chateau d'Yquemm, a fine desert blend. Crispness is noticable without being overwhelming, there is nothing of the "fruit bomb" or lightness of body about it. A most pleasing mid palate presence which serves as a structure to illuminate the extremes. Body in the middle, but no froth at the top or dregs at the bottom. Delicate where important, robust and powerful when appropriate.
One just sufficiently sweet to be at the threshold of perception, an organic presentation of classic nature. The other almost a Torrontés - racy and radiating an aura of real character. From the same vinyard but of different vintage, each presents a different aspect. Much like arguing which is best, a Ferrari 599 GTB or the regal Bentley Arnage.
Peace, |
Dear three of you: Thank you for each one answer.
Acman3, I will post when I have on hand the Signet cartridge: I don't have it yet.
regards and enjoy the music, raul. |
Dear Acman3: Now with a few more listening hours which are your experiences between that TK3 and the 20SS stylus? what could we wait when listening to that combinations?, thank you in advance.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Hi Raul, I have been trying to get more hours on the TK3 to make sure it is fully broken in. Only has about 15 hours on it. It has not changed much so far. Listening to a little Johnny Hartman. Wow!
The only thing I have noticed is that when the music is thick the 20ss is just as dense sounding as the TK3 so I am beginning to think it is the more accurate of the two.
Looking forward to your take on TK3/20ss.You are a much better writer even with language issue.
Danny |
Dear friend: IMHO none. If you like B&O cartridges ( that I like it. ) you could go for the MMC2 or the 20Cl.
These tonearms could help you:
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?anlgtnrm&1304621753&/Graham-2.2
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?anlgtnrm&1304466164&/Jelco-SA-750D
Nagaoka MP-50 is very good performer, last week in brief way I heard the MP-500 and I liked too and even that I don't heard it in my system I think that's a little more refined than the MP-50. Anyway, you can't go wrong with either.
Regards and enjoy the music, raul.
Ps.: I don't know why was deleted your post. At least does not appears on my PC. |
Dear Acman3: If I'm lucky I think that I can put my hands on till friday next week. So, I think I could say something about in no less than 15 days from today.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Hello Raul, I have been playing around with Vta and letting the Signet break in. The Signet TK3's HF opens up as it breaks in and likes a positive Vta due to its very strong bass. It is still the more euphoric of the two stylus but in my opinion not overly so. The 20ss is more detailed but not overly detailed. Although there are differences you can hear when switching back and forth I was fooled a couple of times when I forgot which one was on the turntable.
Raul,using your prior criteria for always less distortion I believe you will like the 20ss more, but I could be wrong. I am glad to have both and personally would not want to choose between the two.
I think now I will have to relisten to the 20ss on it's own cartridge.
To those of you trying to decide if you should purchase the AT20ss stylus to pair with your TK7su/e cartridge, I would personally do it just to get one of the last original 20ss stylus's and to be able to hear it for myself.
I have enjoyed listening to both and wish I could express better in words what I am hearing.
Danny
|
Dear friends: Nice auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/GRACE-F-9E-CARTRIDGE-/290549553626?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a61a59da#ht_500wt_1156
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Dear Raul, Thank you for this! I've won the auction but the main reason was the stated 12cu compliance for my SAEC WE-308SX assumed a better match than a AT 150MLX, MP500, D4000 II . Do you think a new headshell is a necessity over the 18gr ULS-3X? How about a VDH refreshing if I find it not in a good shape? This is going to be my first try to MMs (after 3 Grados, 30 years back) in hope for the removal of pre-pre & assorted cable. My memories about the MM sound have been lost over the years and maybe this TD124II/SAEC/GRACE could stand more familiar on the spirit of my Lowther/SET & support it with the proper integrity. I don't expect from Grace/Saec to reach the level of my former Goldfinger/Reed or my ColibriXPP/Pluto but still I'm exited about exploring the potentials. |
Dear Geoch: That Grace F9E is a good performer that can shows you the MM/MI alternative posibilities.
First step when you will mount is to clean ( in deep ) the cartridge pin connectors, I use an " exacto " like ( knife/sharp blade. ) tool and scrape those four pins and then I clean with a stylus cleaner ( liquid. ).
IMHO the best performance for this Grace is loaded at 100kohms and you need to " play " a little with the capacitance load till you find in your system the better cartridge quality performance.
You can try it with the SAEC headshell and see what happen. Needs at least 10 hours before its vintage suspension settle-down ( don't forget to clean very good the Grace stylus before start with playback. ).
In the other side, if you can, don't use the SAEC headshell metal finger lift that's a resonance focus.
Your SAEC tonearm permit that if you are not satisfied with the SAEC headshell/cartridge match then you can use a different headshells till you can find the " rigth " one.
As with any LOMC cartridge the MM/MI ones needs that we make the overall cartridge set up according with what the cartridge asks for. So if you match its specific needs then IMHO there is no reason why a good MM/MI cartridge choice could not compare with a Colibri or your Clearaudio or any other LOMC.
It is better if when you are listening to it your mental comparison be against music and not against those LOMC cartridge and of course understand what that MM/MI cartridge is doing and what not doing.
Yes, if you think that your Grace is not up to " specs " the BdH refresh is mandatory.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Dear Raul, Thank you once again for sharing your experience. It is one more thing that worries me : Once that I adjust the prefered geometry std. (ie Lofgren B IEC) do I have to concern about any consequences that may arise from the excessive difference (over 10 degrees) between the cartridge & headshell angle ? In my mind, I feel that if I change the WHOLE geometry with ALL the right values corresponding to the Lofgren B IEC, the only thing that may change for worst, is perhaps, the decreased skill of the headshell in managing the cartridge resonances but could not arise anything terribly unpleasant like a change in skating force. Do you agree with this thought ? There is a new 15gr headshell from Zonotone the ZSHELL10 that provides a combination of prismatic shape at the armwand side and circlular shape at the cartridge mounting side. Do you think it has any ability to help 'cause of it's half part with the circle shape (that didn't show a pefered alignment on cartridge direction) ? |
Dear Raul, I am very suprised by your 'clean (in deep)' method. More in particular this 'knife/sharp blade' looks to me very frightening. Is your intention to remove all the gold plating? I use for years this 2 components 'Cramolin' stuff from Monster Cable. One of them is to remove all the filth and/or oxidation ,the other (some kind of blue oil)to keep the work done in good condition. All the connectors look after 'my method' more shine. BTW I use a magnifying glass to check the work done.
Regards, |
Regards, Raul: "While ringing artifacts are generally considered undesirable, the initial overshoot (haloing) at transitions increases acutance (apparent sharpness) by increasing the derivative across the transition, and thus can be considered as an enhancement". Mitchell, Don P.; Netravali, Arun N. (August 1988).
Ringing in the time domain is an oscillating impulse response that if uncontrolled eventually assumes negative values. It would seem then that mechanical ringing is closely related to overshoot, which occurs when cartridge response takes on values higher than the signal's input value resulting in accentuated transitions. Essentially, cumulative resonance results in cartridge response influenced by factors other than the input signal. There are some who, perhaps in an effort to free their tonearms from plinth/platter/drive resonances, remove their tonearms entirely from the deck. These "Pod People" (you know who you are), are they onto something?
From a 1976 description of the Infinity Black Widow: "As the stylus on the tonearm is excited to produce an array of frequencies, most tonearms feel an overwhelming urge (great description) to add vibration and resonances of their own. Where the circumference of the Black Widow tonearm changes, a transmition line effect is created; that is, resonances are neither passed along or reflected back to the stylus, but are instead attenuated at that point." (The original model had a stepped aircraft alu. wand, sleeved near the middle of the armtube).
Geoch's reference to the Zonotone headshell, a delightful description found at "joynet cafe": "ZSHELL10 adopts a combination of prismatic and circle shape which is the most unlikely resonant against vibration. Press into pure titanium at point of center of a cartridge movement for suppressing vibration of conductor wall. Light weight, but high rigid and anti-vibrated ideal 4.2mm thickness A-6063S aluminum alloy is supplied" has revived consideration of the earlier headshell o-ring discussion.
It was noted earlier that a vintage mag. Sumiko/Lustre headshell was immune to effect of o-ring removal. Relevent to the description of the Zonotone, thickness of the Lustre headshell at the cartridge mount is 4mm (nominal). It seems likely there are some real considerations here, optimal thickness, the association of different materials (alu. & ti.) and variable geometry. It was also observed that cartridges installed on ADC mag. headshells, 6.5-9.5gm w/o leads, were influenced by the removal of the o-ring but that they assumed a slight edgy ("overshoot, apparent sharpness"?) quality. The Tech. 7.5gm alu. headshell demonstrated unacceptable glare with the o-ring removed. Further examination has involved cartridge isolation applications to which the o-ring bare ADC shells respond to particularly well, especially with any all metal bodied cartridges. Cartridge isolation appears to be a viable solution to line/boundary resonances as well as mechanically ringing headshell influences on cartridge performance.
Offered for consideration, IMHO applies.
Geoch, congradulations on your acquiring the Grace F9, a classic.
Peace, |
Dear Geoch: I agree with you but you have to take in count than out of " perfection " always exist trade-offs that under some circumstances could even the final quality performance level.
When you hear it you will know for sure.
Btw. I don't have any experience with the Zonotone.
Regards and enjoy the music, raul. |
Dear Nandric: No, I take care not eliminate the gold plating. What I'm trying to do is only that these cartridge pin connectors can have a " fresh " and better connection with the headshell wires end connectors, that's all.
I never used Cramolin here maybe I could try it and see what happen.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Nandric, FYI Cramolin was produced and sold by Caig Laboratories, not those Monsterous people. As indicated in the attached link, a significant component was banned, thus forcing the development of a replacement product.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/it.I/id.1411/KB.215/.f
I still have and use Cramolin red as a contact cleaner. Such a small amount is needed for each application that I suspect it may be a lifetime supply! |
Dear Pryso, I know that Cramolin red contains some toxic component so I never drink the stuff. That is why it last so long. But if I understand you well you are not using the 'blue oil'. If so why?
Regards, |
Nandric, I may be missing something but I never tried the blue. If I remember correctly, Caig claimed it to be a preservative to be used after the red cleaner. Does that sound right?
I've had my bottle of red for over 10 years. I dip the tip of a toothpick in to pick up a drop, then apply that to the connector surface, after which I wipe it with a clean white cotton cloth. Sometimes it is amazing that so little can bring back the shine if it is a reflective surface. |
Because I use the supplied brush for applying Cramolin, and probably also because I used it to enhance the electrical contacts in my old Porsches (6V systems that needed all the V they can get), my original bottle of Cramolin is so filthy with junk that came off those contacts that I no longer like to use it. I use the Caig stuff to clean off oxidation and then I use the Walker silver paste. Love it. |
Strange, very strange. Our highest authority in MM matters is using a knife while our most eloquent member who is also a medical scientist use a filthy brush to 'clean' the connectors. However both are very critical reg. 'our' smallest omissions...Well Lew there are those small brushes to clean the space between our teeth which one can get in all kind of dimensions. I use a whole 'armada' of those but am in particular fond of the smallest one which fit even in the headshell 'tags'. Those brushes are more frequently 'refreshed'(Hi Raul) then those for my teeth. Pryso, the 'blue oil' is intended to neutralize the aggressive (toxic?) substance in the red stuff and this oil should be cleaned with the cotton material.A sticky stuff btw. Regards, |
My Cramolin red did not come with a brush. Maybe only "newer" supplies did so, thus further telling how old mine is!?!
But at least my technique of using a clean toothpick has kept the bottle "junk" free. |
Mine has got to be 25-30 years old and does have a small brush attached to the inside of the cap, just like Caig stuff. (I doubt I could find the Cramolin in my large house if I wanted it, but it always turns up when I am not looking for it.) |
How does one mourn the needless and mindless destruction of a not-even-broken-in stylus for the Empire D4000iii? Good thing I didn't like it that much, but I did want to try it out on my newly acquired epa 100 mkii tonearm before rendering final judgment. Alas, not meant to be. |
Hello Banquo363, Sorry to hear about your D40003,and have shed a tear thinking about it. Vinyl is not for the fainthearted is it? There are some replacement styli on Ebay and original styli??? on Adlemans/Bluz Broz.
I know your in mourning but I was wondering what you didn't like about the Empire D4000. I always thought it was a safe recommendation for others.
Anybody know anything about the Empire 750ltd ?
Danny |
Does anyone remember if the Empire D40003 stylus is interchangeable with the D40002 stylus. If so, there is an interesting Jico shibata that might work.
Danny |
Not for the fainthearted, inebriated or twitchy--or, heaven forbid, any of those in combination.
The cart had a muddy bottom end that drove me crazy, and it was deficient in dynamics. I would switch between Empire and the Azden or the AT 20SS and the differences especially in dynamics were like night and day.
The Azden has what you might call over-exuberant or 'colored' bass but it could be tamed by playing with the VTA; I haven't had the 20SS for long but it is fantastic straight up. Both just as alive sounding as the Empire was dead. For that matter, right now I'm listening to Stan Getz/Astrud Gilberto with a Denon 103, and even though it's giving me a slight headache due to its bright in-your-face sound, at least it's fun. The Empire was never fun for me.
To be clear/fair though the problems I had with the Empire might be due to several different causes, none of which impugn the cart. It might be a bad match with the tonearm I'm currently using. That's why I was saving final judgment until I mounted my epa 100. It could be break-in period--I had only about 25 hours or less on it. Worst of all, it could be I had a 'fake' stylus (even though I bought it as genuine NOS). It looks exactly like the others that are judged authentic, but evidently Empire had some unscrupulous practices in their day, so who knows. This last reason is why I'm not keen on replacing the stylus even though there's a shop in the Netherlands that purports to carry the 'cross my heart, hope to die' authentic stylus.
...Now if it had been my Azden stylus, I wouldn't even be out of bed, let alone typing, the self-loathing would have been too great to overcome. |
Hi Banquo, Sorry for your klutziness but it happens to us all once in a while. You wrote, "The cart had a muddy bottom end that drove me crazy, and it was deficient in dynamics." In what tonearm? |
Acman, perhaps Raul will also chime in but I own an Empire 750 LTD and enjoy it. It takes the same stylus assembly style as the 900 GT or 600 LAC (numbered 241 or 242, they're interchangeable). I've used it with the LAC stylus, a .2X.7 biradial stylus on a "boron vapored" aluminum alloy cantilever, and a .2X.7 biradial stylus on a ("regular") tapered aluminum alloy cantilever. Like them all, but prefer the LAC stylus.
It seems to have a similar infectious musicality and alive rhythmic qualities as the other Empires I have.
Jim |
Dean man, Thank you for the information on the Empire 750 LTD. I look forward to hearing it.
Danny |
Banquo363,
Commiserations on the demise of your Empire. If it helps, and working on the old adage that "misery loves company", I would mention that I recently lost my Technics P100c Mk4 cartridge. This without any evident impact of any personal dyspraxia - as its cantilever simply collapsed. VdH and other experts say they cannot mend the relevant spring and that I must now consign it to the trash can of history.
The loss has come as a massive blow. Maybe worse so as I have sold a large range of highly rated MM/MI's on the basis of its performance: my intended cartridge for life!
As Acman3 say, not for the fainthearted.
Onwards and upwards |
Acman3,
Sorry but the Empire 750Ltd was one of the cartridges that I sold on eBay. |
Hello Raul, I (neobop) hope you don't mind my posting on your thread. I haven't previously. I've been listening to a few nice MM/MI carts over the past couple of years and find them seriously underrated by many record playing enthusiasts.
Timetel, Regarding your previous statement - "On the application of capacitance you wrote: "I'm using the cartridge capacitive load as a critical and very important way for a cartridge " final fine tunning ", said " final " means that we have to take care in deep on these capacitance load changes: not so easy as it " sounds " but when you made the " right " capacitance load cartridge set up you know immediately that that load is " right " against other values." Totally agree. Some might say the same for varying resistance."
I'm of the school that says, keep capacitance as low as possible and fine tune with resistance. Then add only as much capacitance as necessary. In examining HO cart loading as it pertains to amplitude and phase response, capacitance is used to compensate for mechanical irregularities in treble response (dips). It does this by lowering the high frequency resonance down to the treble area for reinforcement. This has a severe consequence on phase linearity, HF extension, and I believe overall clarity.
Phase non linearity (deviating from amplitude response) starts at the mech HF resonance. There it has a 180 degree phase reversal. This area of phase reversal is very narrow on an undamped cart. Damping is necessary to control cantilever movement. The effect of damping is to spread this phase non linearity out and down into the audible band. When capacitance combines with the inductance of HO cart, it makes matters worse by lowering HF resonance.
If I may make a suggestion, try loading at 47K initially, with minimal capacitance. Then vary resistance to get best response. Use capacitance as sparingly as possible to make up for deficiencies in the treble. I think it's worth a try. BTW, I read that using most pots for variable loading, adds lots of inductance.
I bought a used Clearaudio Virtuoso. These are made by AT. I like this cart. The entire MM line seems to share the same generator, specs are identical. For DIY stylus replacement there's a thread in the vinyl section of Audio Circle. You can actually transplant a stylus from a dissimilar series. It opens up a lot of possibilities. Regards, |
Dear Dgob, that is how all revolutions start: Nirvana for cheap as well as for all. Ergo: buy only the MM carts which possible malfunction you can bear.
Regards, |
Dear friends: This IMHO is the best quality performance level by any Shure cartridge a lot better than the 15VMR so a nice opportunity:
here the cartridge:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Shure-ML-140HE-cartridge-/250799644061?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a64d2dd9d#ht_500wt_1156
and you are lucky enough, here the NOS original stylus replacement:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Shure-N140HE-stylus-M140HE-Hyperelliptical-/310309823510?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483fe82416#ht_500wt_1156
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Dear Banquo363: The 4000DIII ( not the Gold. ) should performs at its best with that great MK2 Technics tonearm.
The cartridge is not a plug&play unit, Needs no less than 30 hours to settle down, likes 100k on impedance, VTF 1gr., positive SRA ( you have to have patience here before you get the best and before you set up the capacitance value. ) and then capacitance load according what you are hearing.
Of course be sure that the cartridge stylus is original and not a fake like the ones we can see around.
Nopw, the Azden is very good but with different presentation where the 20SS IMHO goes more in the Empire side with differences obviously.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Dgob: yes, your story helped a lot ;-).
Lewm: I don't know the identity of the tonearm, since I'm still using a borrowed TT and the little research I've done has produced little. The other thorn at my side. |
Dear Acman3: Be very carefully with that cartridge Bluzbroz/Adelcom source, due to several problems reported here and in other threads that source is not trusty.
That Empire 750LTD is a winner, very good performer and IMHO diffrent for other more old Empires as the 4000D3. I like a lot this cartridge and if you have new the cartridge needs 30-40 hours at least to shows what it has.
Right now there is a sample of this Empire on ebay with out the original stylus.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Yeah, Shure ML140HE is very good. |
Regards, Neobop: I find it easier to set both VTA and capacitance by starting low and then increasing. Especially VTA as it is (for me) a more subtle influence.
Peace, |