Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
Sorry for 3 straight posts on this off-topic subject, but I just looked up the specs of the Acoustat X direct-drive amplifier. It operates at 5000V (5kV), not 50kV. That makes sense. Should have used Google in the first place.
Lew, These weren't Acoustat amps. Only the transformer and chassis were original. The amps were custom made by Dan Fanny (AHT). I believe 5KV is the polarizing voltage and tube voltage could be higher?
The original tubes were some kind of high voltage TV tube and were upgraded. You might be right though, it was a long time ago.
Regards,
Hi Fleib, I knew Dan as he was at the time located in Trenton and I live nearby and some of my friends had his modded X amps and phono stages. I worked on one of my friends (a fellow named Glen) amps when it failed at one point (it was sometimes hard for Dan to make time) and it makes sense that 5 or 6 kv was involved. His amps were modded to work with Audiostatics but I heard them on big Acoustat (4 or 6 maybe?) and Martin-Logan CLS on his upstairs system. I remember he liked to play 'em REALLY loud... And I did get to see the mighty Goldmund Reference there for only the second time.

My friend Frank had the amps and AHT pre also. He was real happy with them but became a reviewer and had to move to a somewhat more, lets say, domesticated system!

I have recently been reinvigorated towards vinyl and rebuilding a vinyl playback system (I have plenty of albums) and have been trying to find some of the MM's referred to here with a little bit of success. It's good to see that even without some of the previous "guiding lights" there is still a bit of life in this thread.

Best, Kevin
Hi Kevin, Sounds like you've done some interesting things, a tube driven fusion reactor?
Dan didn't have the phono stage perfected until around '90, the start of an unfortunate decade for vinyl enthusiasts. I was trying to remember what cartridge he used before the Grasshopper, but it eludes me. I only heard his Reference a couple of times before the VDH. It was good but paled in comparison to the sound after. We used to listen at "normal" loud levels and I suppose his continual perfecting of the electronics had something to do with the improvement.

One day I mentioned the arm height was off and I listened while he adjusted it incrementally. The resolution, the sheer fidelity of his system was impressive, if not the presentation. The Acoustats were 2 + 2 - 4 panels per side, a bit too large for full range panels IMO.

Good luck with your return to record playing. May the vinyl gods smile on your endeavor.
Regards,
Since I've had my Beveridge speakers up and running, I have become fascinated with direct-drive for ESLs. Your discussion (Fleib and Kevin) makes me wonder whether the Acoustat X amplifiers could be adapted to run my Sound Lab 845PXs. 5kV might be a little too low for those beasts, but maybe not.

Fleib et al, I sheepishly admit that although I amassed a nice collection of MM/MI cartridges during Raul's reign here, I really have only ever listened at length to 3-4 of them:
Acutex LPM320
Grace Ruby
Stanton 980/981LZS
Grado TLZ (my own old stash)

Of the following in my collection, which ones might be expected to compete with or surpass the above:
Acutex M320
B&O MMC1
AKG (any, I've got 2 or 3)
AT20SS
Stanton 881S
Empire 4000D III

I never found a good Signet or Technics or whatever the brand was that starts with "MF" as in MF100/200/300 or Glanz.
Unfounded opinions are welcome.
Lewm, my opinion is that all, except the Stanton 881s, COULD be better , for you, on your system, than what you have heard, so far. I personally would start with the Empire. A personal favorite.

The 20ss has to my ears a harder edge than the others you have chosen, but set up properly it will play what's on the record. Nothing more, nothing less.

Btw, I love the 881s, but overall the Stanton 981 is better to me. I would want to hear all before my time ends. If it takes another decade,so what.
I've also got an Empire 1000ZE/X, with NOS stylus. That was an early favorite here, for about a month. It then faded from discussions. I have more that I cannot even recall off the top of my head.

My B&O is NOS. What I don't live about it in principle is that you've got to use the flimsy plastic adapter in order to use it with a conventional tonearm; I am sure that adapter must flex and lose information that is really available electrically.
For "live" in the first sentence of my second para, read "like", of course. Too bad one cannot edit one's own posts.
Lewm, Agree about the B&O, I would suggest to glue the adapter permanently to it, of course in the case you actually would use it for a longer period. Occasionally I can edit my posts, usually not.
Lewm, Yes, the adaptor is really cheap. I am surprised it works at all, and yet it does. I like Harold's idea of glueing if you never plan to purchase another B&O, and in fact I will when my table is set up. { moved and having trouble with location and wire lengths}

I use the Empire 1000zex I purchased from Nandric with Axel's replacement stylus. The NOS sounds exactly the same to me. The 1000zex is a little technacolored, but it is a cartridge I could live with everyday. You can pick it apart, but the bottom line it really is good at music.
Someone, maybe SoundSmith should make an adapter out of metal. SS do sell an adapter for the very high price of $50, but I know nothing about its build quality. Anyone?
Lewm,

Those flimsy plastic B&O ones are selling on fleabay for what you have stated SoundSmith is asking for their's. I would think that would make SoundSmith's a bargain!
Regards,
Don
Last I heard, Soundsmith only made adaptors for their own cartridges. I would be very happy if they had started making the B&O adaptor.
Dear Flieb, yes it was interesting! I worked at the Princeton Plasma Physics Lab back in the '80's where the Tokemak Test Reactor was located and we had 8 2 megawatt RF sources whose purpose was to "shoot" into the plasma to keep it hot and sustain the reaction. This was all research that was supposed to lead to practical Fusion reactors and showed great promise until the plug was pulled (so to speak) by the "powers that be". Long story, but cheap, safe nuclear power would look pretty good about now...

I do have a fair amount of experience with analog and have owned some pretty good stuff over the years. If there is interest, I could talk a bit about my experiences with strain gauge technology (WIN Strain gauge and FET-10, Panasonic cart with Jon Iverson source/preamp etc.) and even have one of the Stax CP-Y "electrostatic" systems laying around (that unfortunately requires a Stax tonearm with a particular dedicated arm tube that has 3 pins)...

But this time around I want to keep my expenditure down a bit, thus the interest in this thread. I bought a few of the MM's referred to in this thread so it will be interesting.
Acman et al, I once spoke to Peter Ledermann about this issue of P mount adapters. SS do in fact make adapters for B&O cartridges, probably because there many B&O cartridges in circulation that have become separated from their original adapters over time, i.e., there is a market for it. The price, however, is or was $50, as quoted by Peter. If it's made of metal, or is in any way regardless of materials more structurally rigid and more tightly associated to the cartridge than is the original, I too would be a buyer. Meantime, this conversation stimulated me to do an internet search, and I found that Ortofon makes what looks to be a very nice adapter, available from the Needle Doctor for $11. I just bought one.
Ox " Panasonic cart with Jon Iverson source/preamp etc.)" I am always intrigued with tales of the late Jon Iverson. His disappearance and death still remain a mystery to this day. The man was a legendary genius of an engineer to say the least. Please do start there. All Electron Kinetics Eagle 7a Amps had the same serial number.
Hi Kevin, I think everyone would be interested in your experiences with strain gauge, Stax etc. I'm sitting on the edge of my chair.

Hi Lew, I suspect the very best MM are those with low inductance and high resonant frequency. They're also the trickiest to load.
Regards,
Lewm, The B&O is not really a P mount. If we were talking navels, one is an inny and one is an outty. :)
Fleib, You may have been privy to my arguments with Raul re loading the Stanton 980LZS. I stated that my 980 did not open up and sound right at any load R lower than 1000 ohms. In fact, I use 1000 ohms with no added capacitance, and it still may need higher R or added C to optimize. Raul stated that he loaded the LZS at 100R, and others agreed with him. His opinion was, as usual, that I or my system, or both, were at fault, if I could not agree with his finding. In my system, the LZS sounds bloated and muddy at 100R. At 47K, it sounds not much different from 1000R, but I've tried nothing in between. What did you have in mind in making your statement?

Acman, Please expand on your statement. Are you saying that the male vs female connections of a B&O MMC1 are contrary to those of a standard P-mount?
Lew,
My comment was about HO MM/MI, the 980LZ is a special case. I remember Raul saying 100 ohms was it, and that was also mfg recommendation I believe. That's about as valid as all HO carts need 47K. Many preamps back then used 100 ohms as the MC load.

The 980 has considerable treble droop at 100 ohms and like a MC, adding capacitance won't do anything. Inductance is too low. Response is better at 1 - 2K. With the stock stylus it won't get any better. This is David Dlaloum's measurements of the Pickering 7500 (same cart)
https://sites.google.com/site/zevaudio/turt/cartridge-comparison-list/pickering-xlz-7500-s

I suspect it needs a Soundsmith level 2 or 3 stylus rebuild. If you can get Peter Lederman on the phone he might be able to advise. I think the problem is mostly mechanical. It already has a short cantilever, but a more rigid one might be like using an SAS replacement stylus?
Regards,
Fleib, What problem???? I perceive no problem with the 980LZS, as long as the load R is 1000 ohms or higher. I don't see that as a problem with the cartridge. Moreover, having re-tipped one of my two Grace Ruby cartridges with the most expensive SS ruby OCL cantilever/stylus, I am no longer so quick to re-tip with non-original styli. The re-tipped Ruby is disappointing. And finally, I have a second 981LZS with is NOS, just in case. Not to mention a Pickering XSV7500, as well (forgot to put that on my list above).
Lew, the problem is no further response manipulation is possible due to lack of inductance, not that it sounds bad at 1K. At 100 ohms it sounds like a refined Grado IMO and 1K is a vast improvement, but still not perfect.
Even though vocals sound amazing on some of the better Grados, I don't like them, except the TLZ which is the best of the bunch I've tried.

It's unexpected to read that a SS level 3 on your Grace Ruby of all things, was disappointing. Isn't the original tip a .2 x .8 elliptical? Can you describe the change?
Regards,
Lew,

I am also surprised at your comment in regards to the Grace Ruby replacement by Sound Smith. Granted, there is quite a difference between the profiles of the two styli, and no doubt they are going to sound different. Maybe different, wasn't what you were looking for? As Fleib as stated, additional comments would be appreciated.
Regards,
I'm not saying this pertains to Lew, but when you have a stylus replaced or especially a stylus/cantilever you have to abandon some of your previous set-up adjustments and approach as if it's a new cartridge.

Obviously, alignment is whatever you use, but with azimuth and arm height you're back to square 1. And to a lesser degree anti-skate and VTF also might have to be changed.
Putting a new tip on a cantilever could result in a degree or two of difference from being absolutely perpendicular to the cart body or mounting plate. What if the cart was previously a degree or two off in the other direction?

SS ruby cantilevers have the tips pre-mounted. I think there's a photo of one on his site. The angle of the tip with respect to the cantilever might be different than that of the original. Even if VTA is the same, SRA is often different.
On another forum one of Mikey's Legion of 92° followers said the OCL tip vertical line is more forward than normal due to the diamond cut. Even though I have an OCL replacement tip, that's a little hard to confirm. The cart might be a tad lower in the back, but it's on a different arm.
Regards,

In addition to Fleib's arguments. I just got Dertonarm's new Archon MC cart. I use this cart with his Arche headshell. Well I was confused by the angle at which the stylus is fastened to the cantilver. I assume 23 degrees but am not sure. So the only way is to try different SRA adjustments. I am still trying to find the optimal solution.
Now regarding the MM carts. My experience is that the styli with tension wire sound better than the usual kind. Those with tension wire that I own are Grace 9, JVC X-1 and Technics 205 mk 3/4. The construction is similar to the MC carts. The cantilever is fastened to an 'magnetic ring' which transfers the movements of the cantilever to the coils. Behind this magnetic ring there is a thread also fastened to the magnetic ring and then tensioned at the back side of the tube in which the cantilever is positioned.
This thread or wire neutrilize all possible resonances from the cantilever. The function of this tension wire is to balance and center the cantilever. This way the cantilever
can move in all directions because this is a kind of 'one point' balance for the cantilever.
To re-tip such kind of the stylus with tension wire one can glue the new cantilever in the tube of the old cantilever but it is not possible to do anything about the tension construction inside the tube. Only those MM carts which have this 'joint pipe' in front of their cantilever can be re-tipped like the MC carts. The rest can only get a kind
of extension within the old (part) of the cantilever. In this part the new cantilever is glued.

**Hi Nandric: In every phono cartridge that I have seen, the cantilever rod is joined to the pivoting part of the cantilever assembly by means of a slightly larger tube called the "joint pipe". Joint pipes of different length make it possible to change the length of the cantilever rod, while keeping the same total length of the cantilever assembly** Jcarr

http://www.coolgales.com/brochures/AudioTechnicacartridgesbrochure.pdf

Here the joint pipe is called the pivot.
The suspension wire is called the flexible suspension filament.

In doing transplants, or in this case attempting a transplant, I came across an old beryllium cantilevered one that was different. Instead of a flexible wire the cantilever appeared to be one piece that went straight through the joint pipe. I guess it wasn't really one piece, but the suspension wire part had no sleeve and looked like the rest of the cantilever.
Beryllium is the most brittle of all cantilever materials, and it broke easily when I tightened the compliance screw.

That was the ATN152MLP which I bought NOS just before it went extinct. I just replaced it with a Signet MR5.0/ML. This example had an out of spec body and didn't sound too good. The stylus still has life and sounds wonderful on any 100/120 series body.
Hi Fleib, I am really sorry but I need to use some logical arguments again. The quantor 'all' is a trucky one.
'For all x Fx&Gx ' means that all x of a given set satisfy the conditions Fx and Gx. For F and G one can chose whatever property one likes. Now if just one object x from
this given set does not satisfy conditions F and G then the whole statement (aka 'generalisation') is not true. If you and J. Carr can show to me where the tension wire or the 'joint pipe' of, say, AKG P 8 ES is I would be convinced that all( MM ) carts are as stated. Besides you produced one contra example your self and I am more sorry for your broken beryllium cantilever than your argument(s).
Hi Nandric,
The quantifier "all" was not used. If you have a problem with Jcarr's statement, take it up with him.

My one example contained a joint pipe, so it was not contrary to the statement. It did have an unusual suspension wire which appeared to be the same as the cantilever and had no sleeve. Still, not contrary to the statement about joint pipes.

I made no argument, merely a quote about joint pipes and an anecdote about an unusual AT stylus. Thank you for your concern. The stylus has been replaced with a lucky find. Hope you can find an original replacement for your JVC.
Regards,
Hi Fleib, You quoted J.Carr sentence which was: 'In every phono cartridge that I have seen'..., etc. I assume that your quote was meant as an contra argument against my
assumption in this regard. Well I can assure you that the expression 'in every ' means the same as 'all': 'all carts that I have seen' means exactly the same. So the quantor 'all' is used thought not by you but then why this quote?
That some carts don't have or contain the tension wire in their suspension is already stated by J.Carr in his contribution from 08-16-14. My argument or rather assumption
was that MM carts with 'tension wire' sound better than those without. Now regarding this 'joint pipe' which all carts are assumed to contain. I was wondering why the re-tippers cut the existing cantilever and than glue the new one inside the old one? By the MC carts which all contain this joint pipe the re-tip is pretty simple. The whole old cantilever is pulled out and the new one is glued in the joint pipe. As a fresh baked surgeon in the field of the styli tranplatations I thought that some study of carts
anatomy should be useful. That is why I opened two of those styli with tension wire and was surprised to see how complex the construction is. That is how I cured myself from my prejudice against the MM carts (grin).
Nandric,
You neglect the qualifier "that I have seen". I didn't see a statement about having seen all, only those he has seen.

You assume too much. I made no argument only pointed out the discrepancy between your statements regarding joint pipes. I thought perhaps you would enlighten us on this subject, but you chose to argue against Jcarr?

Well, the cantilever must be attached to something and that something is called.......? They're not all the same and the manner of attachment can be quite different which doesn't always facilitate entire cantilever replacement. At least that's how it seems to me, but I'm not Jcarr.
Regards,
Hi Fleib, You should check your set-theoretic assumption.
There are no numerical bondaries for the quantor 'all'.
There are sets with just one member about which one can
quantify. Then you pretend that I have some issue with
J. Carr and not with you. Neither of us (J.Carr and I)
addressed each other in this context. You quoted him for
some reasons and you are of course responsible for your
quotation . BTW the 'tension wired' cart which I inspected
is the well known Technics 205 . This one at least has
no 'joint pipe' but well tension wire. So, according to
your logic of quantification J. Carr has never seen
Technics 205 stylus.
Nandric,
While this "logical" Abbott and Costello routine may or may not be amusing to readers of this thread, perhaps there is a more interesting subject.

You mentioned that you're in possession of Dertonearm's Archon cartridge. What's the scoop? Is it wonderful, the best thing since sliced bread, or just another ho hum $8K cart?
Regards,
Dear Fleib, Dertonarm is a good friend of my whom I also admire. I don't believe that my report about his products can be objective. But to satisfy your or possible others
curiosity I need to first mention that Archon is the first item I ever bought from him. The Arche I got for free and got in trouble with the other members of the 'German group' who needed to pay for their Arche. I wrongly assumed that Syntax and Thuchan also got one for free. Those are Germans you know while I am from the Balkans. There must be something wrong with this Dertonarm(grin)
The Archon is about 2700 euro. So your assumption is probably (logicaly?) based on the price of his tonearm? I want mention logic anymore in my disputes with you because you have obviously no talent for this, uh, field of human curiosity.
While Dertonarm is my champion his cart is champion for the string instruments. This is my first impression.The cart needs some more 'break in time' but my added problem is the angle by which the stylus is put in the cantilver. So I am still wrestling with this SRA screw in the Arche. With this srew one can change the SRA in fractions of 1mm while the 'regular' VTA adjsuter by the pivot do this job in centimeters. Something to do with the distance to the stylus tip. Besides the tonearm geometry need not to be
re-adjusted as by the VTA adjustments.Again something to do with the distance.The cart sounds to me similar to my Magic Diamond but is the only one which can reproduce in a decent way this anemic and terrible instrument: violin. For those who like string quartetts alas unavoidable.
Well dear Fleib you can see that I like some other things also next to my abvious preference for disputes. BTW which am I Abbott or Costello ?
All what, cartridges or seen cartridges?
All cartridges were never part of the equation.

**Neither of us (J.Carr and I) addressed each other in this context.**
Surely you jest. The Jcarr quote was addressed to you.

I think Technics called the joint pipe a stylus sleeve and the cantilever is connected in a way that does not facilitate replacement in its entirety. I have no idea if Jcarr has ever seen one.

Why don't you tell us about Dertonearm's cartridge? I think it would be more interesting than joint pipe universality.
Regards,

Dear Fleib, I desagree with you about importance of this tension wire and the joint pipe. Who would expect such attitude from me (grin)?
My arguments are: if the styli with tension wire sounds better than those without this should be interesting for our members to know. J.Carr contribution that I already mentioned (08-16-14) suggest that this assumption is correct.
There is no sense in trying to fix the suspension of such styli (with tension wire). Both my Technics 205 mk3 needed new suspension. But Axel as well as Andy were not able to fix the problem. However this trial cost me $100. I think that knowing how to save some money is relevant info.
Now this 'joint pipe'. If there is one visible from outside one can assume that an re-tip make sense. That is to say that a new cantilever/stylus combo can be glued in this 'pipe' as well that the old cantilever (rest) can be removed. If there is no such 'joint pipe' as by the Technics 205 trying an re-tip make no sense. It is simply impossible.
By carts with aluminum cantilever this re-tip can be done under proviso that there is still a part of this cantilever present. In this part a new cantilever/stylus combo can be
glued but then one get a double cantilever with glue between them. This then is my own experience. If I was better informed I would save more as 500 euro. Those are lost because of the lack of information. I think that Raul lost an huge amount of money by his 'refreshments'.
Hi Nandric, I don't disagree with your assertion about suspension wires. I quoted a statement about joint pipes and your response was assumptive, a one sided debate.

As I previously stated, all cantilevers have a point of attachment regardless of what you call it. There are different methods of attaching them and not all look like an AT joint pipe which they call a pivot. That style facilitates entire cantilever replacement. It looks like a miniature plumbing end piece.

The Technics looks something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PANASONIC-TECHNICS-NEEDLE-STYLUS-EPS-205C-EPC-205-EPC-207-CARTRIDGE-PM2857DE-/201074068252

That's a Jico regular replacement stylus. This will have an aluminum cantilever with a bonded elliptical stylus. The copper colored part could be considered a joint pipe, but call it whatever you like. It would be difficult to replace the entire cantilever on this.

This is a Jico SAS replacement. It has a boron cantilever and a micro ridge tip, a real bargain:
http://stylus.export-japan.com/product_info.php?cPath=10&products_id=1528&osCsid=dhb1o20212vpjnb4sv3gatgnf6

This is as close as you're going to get to original performance. Loading might have to be adjusted slightly. Give it a few hours to loosen up.
Regards,
Hi Fleib, What an coincidence. I bought the cheap one
some time ago and this Jico SAS replacement I got from
my comrade Don yesterday. I am sorry but I need to use this
expression again. The SAS one has tension wire ,of which I
am so fond, inside. Don is a kind of expert for those Jico
styli and also found replacement stylus for my JVC-X1 (DT-
X1-Mk 2).BTW the search name should be Victor. This
means for our other members that they need only
to buy Technics 205 (2,3 or 4) or JVC-X1 body. Those
SAS styli are not only a bargain but are also very good.
For my two 205, mk 3 styli I anticipated +/- 400 euro
re-tip price. Such kind of information is so to speak
'priceless' for our members.
If anyone still cares.... My re-tipped Grace Ruby at first sounded at least "good", with obviously more treble detail or a more pronounced treble compared to my other Grace Ruby, which is still using its OEM stylus assembly. So I expected it to get "really good" after break in. However, after about 20-30 hours, it was sounding "brittle", not to say irritating. There was a disconnect between mid-treble which was a tad edgy and lower frequencies, which sounded mechanical, to me. The OEM Ruby and the Acutex LPM320 clearly trounce the modified Ruby in that system. Well, really the modified Ruby sounds defective. (I know these descriptive terms can connote different things to different people; please use a grain of salt when interpreting.) I certainly do NOT mean to cast a slur on the work at SS, which receives so much praise from so many. In fairness to them, I need to discuss the situation with Peter L.

Yes, I played with VTF and VTA; nothing I did made much difference for better or worse.
Dear Lew, This is your x time complaining about your Grace Ruby re-tip asking others for a possible explanation. This imply that you made no effort to explain the cause yourself. You also missed my attempt to provide some answers. I think that Rauls 'refreshment' stories caused the illusion that each MM cart can be 'upgraded'. But there is no such thing as 'MM cart in general'. That is the why of my boring arguments about the 'tension wire', 'joint pipes', etc. My question is which 'upgrades' can be done and which not. This depends from the stylus construction. I think that nothing is wrong with your ruby/stylus combo but probably with the tension wire or suspension in your cart. I know that those Grace styli have tension wire in their construction. If there is something wrong with those there is no way Peter can fix them. I assume that you would like to have the same looks as when you was 20 years old. But I don't believe that you will search for the surgeon who can do this job for you. The same is the case in my opinion with the MM carts. One should have at least some idea about what is possible with his MM cart. Well the sense of our forum is to provide such information.
I put forth that this now pathetic thread be put to rest, and let you 2 take this to personal email.
Dear Storyboy, Which two did you have in mind?
Dear Nandric, Perhaps you don't understand what was done to my second of two Grace Ruby's. I bought it off eBay with NO stylus and NO cantilever. It was in "like new" condition otherwise, and I actually wonder whether it was so mortally damaged by its first purchaser. The cartridge body looks NOS, and the carrier device that plugs into the cartridge (with the red plastic shades) also looked like new; the rubberized sleeve that accepts the cantilever was still intact. SS replaced the cantilever and stylus using my original stylus carrier. Also, please forgive me if I don't remember your last lecture on my problem; feel free to repeat yourself. Did it have to do with the string, of which you are so fond?

I am still working full time, so I fully admit that I am slow in dealing with audio problems such as this. When free time does become available, I always seem to choose to listen, rather than to fiddle with malfunctioning devices. On the other hand, and in my defense, I have in essence rebuilt my own OTL amplifiers and preamplifier, repaired those difficult Beveridge amplifiers, made some very effective upgrades to a Silvaweld phono stage, etc, in the last two years. In addition, I am restoring an old Alfa Romeo. I am a little more productive with my hobbies during winter. I just got back from a meeting in Brazil, where I acquired some interesting LPs at an outdoor market.
dear Nandric:

Could you clarify some things for me:

1. did you say that the jico x1 mk2 stylus fits onto your x1 mk1 body?
2. and that it is a sas stylus?
3. and that it has the tension wire?

I'm asking because the one I bought is a shibata with no tension wire. If 2 and 3 are true, could you link to the product page for me? Thanks.
Dear Lew, We all want the so called NOS carts. The reason is of course the stylus . But we can only hope that the suspension is also ok. Those are mostly more as 30 years
old carts. AKG's last (2?) series are notorious because of their wrong 'rubber' choice for the suspension. This is also the case with Technics 205, mk2,3 and 4. It's a pity because both are very good carts. But what about the other 'part' of the suspension : the tension wire? I can't remember that we ever discussed tension wire. So the fact that your Grace was 'as new' when you got the cart imply only that the stylus is 'as new' (in general)but there is no certainty about the suspension, etc. Your new (ruby) cantilever/ stylus combo is probably also ok . Besides you can see if there is something physicaly wrong with those. Well what else can be wrong with your Grace? BTW I always read your post very careful except when you write about Newton(grin)

Dear Banquo, When searching by Jico styli (Googel) you will not find JVC so you need to check by Victor. The differnce is like between Vienna and Wien (Victor is the other name for JVC).
I was so impressed with JVC-X1 that I bought 3 samples; two bodies and one NOS mk 2. For 'my' bodies I got one elliptical Tonar without tension wire and one old DT-X1,Mk2 made by Nivico. This one has elliptical stylus , aluminum cantlever as well the tension wire. The new Jico DT-X1-Mk 2 should have boron cantilever and Shibata (?) stylus. My comrad Don got as present my JVC with Tonar stylus and already ordered this new Jico stylus. Why Jico used the same name for this stylus I have no idea. Anyway in about 10 days we will hear from Don about this new find. BTW the 'SAS' version Fleib and I mentioned in connection with the Technics 205 .
@Lewm

I am restoring an old Alfa Romeo

there is a 1946 Alfa Romeo being restored just a short bike ride from me at the Guild
right beside the Holland Marsh landmark.

Some of you who are into cars may know the Guild from "Restoration Garage" on the History Channel.

Every time I drive by this place going to pick up groceries in town I risk an accident looking over at what is parked in front. Myself I prefer track-able cars (when wife gives permission) Sorry to (side) track this thread.
Storyboy, You should check the meaning of the word 'pathetic' first and if this does not help follow my implicite advise in connection with Lew. When he writes about Newton I simply pass over his post. Despite the fact that I very much like the guy. You should do the same whenever you feel threatened by Fleib/Nandric disputes. Prescribing others what they 'ought' to do is risky business in this thread. We can deduce something or other about you this way.
The steering wheel alone of that 1946 Alfa is to die for. Thanks.
I have seen video of The Guild on TV at "Restoration Garage". They were restoring a particular car, not this one. The owner seemed like an interesting guy. Mine is a 1959 Giulietta Spider Veloce.
I had five Alfas in a row. My mechanic finally advised me to hire a truck to total my last one, a 164S. The most fun of any car to have in the shop.