Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
Good news for those who own the JVC-X 1. I discovered 4
styli which can be used as substitute for the original.
By 'pick-upnaalden.com' named as 'JVC DT-X1-MK2'. I
purchased the 'Tonar 00740-DE' for 52 euro and am surprised
with its quality.
Is the tonar stylus body shaped like the x1 original, Nandric, or like the x1 mk2? If the latter, then you have a few more choices: jico makes a mk2 shibata replacement and lp gear has their own 'vivid line' replacement. I have both. The jico is very good, although sadly not nearly as good as the original. I haven't mounted the lp gear one.

Does the tonar have the tension wire?
Dear Banquo, The modesty is not a qualitity of a person but
depends from the circumstances. I first thought that there
are no aftermarket styli for the JVC-X1 available and than
come 4 of them across by pick-upnaalden in Holland. All of
them are marked as 'JVC DT-X1-MK 2'. Neither is with the so
called 'tension wire', alas. My comrade Don who is familiar
with Jico will investigate what Jico has to offer. My original
cantilever is broken in such a way that a new cantilever/stylus
combo can be glued on the remainder. So it is probably that I
will end with at least 3 new styli. What is anyway certain is :
I will never again try to straighten any cantilever whatever.
Lew, if you're still interested in a budget phono stage let me know. I have some comparative user reports on the top contenders.

Nandric, if you're still looking for X-1 replacement styli TurntableNeedles.com has what I believe to be an Astatic. Like the Jico replacements it's a straight aluminum cantilever with a bonded tip. #673-DQ. ($38)
Jico doesn't have the stylus.
Regards,
Regards All,
I do not know if it is in this thread or another that somebody modified the Marantz 7c to be specifically used as a MM phonostage.
Can someone please point me to it.
Audpulse, So far as I know, the phono stage in the Marantz 7C in completely original form IS MM-ready. There was no such thing as an MC cartridge back in its day. It probably does develop higher than average gain compared to a typical modern MM phono stage, because of the bass and treble and other contour controls built into it; such filters suck up some gain, so a little excess is needed.
Lewn, I have the Marantz 7c as a back-up full function preamplifier for over a decade and has only been used once after changing the captive power cord on the unit.
But recently I came across what is called a solid state 12AXT tube that totally blew my mind. This tube has no filament and does not need any warm up.
Not much to report on that tube at the moment till I install it in the Marantz 7c. With the high gain of the tube and the performance that was demonstrated to me, I think that my search for a dedicated TOTL MM phonostage may be over.
I know that I read on one of the Audiogon threads about a modified Marantz 7c that aroused my curiosity but I cannot remember the thread.
I picked up a Signet MR 5.0 ML. The MR series has the same basic generator as the 440 - 490mH, 790 DC, 3200 ohm imp.
I really bought it for the stylus which is beryllium/ML, to replace the 152ML I broke in transplant. The MR series has a 120/440 series plug, but requires a slight plastic trim on the side, to fit.

The Signet only sounded so-so. The DC was off, being around 809 in one ch and 830 in the other. It also has a small metal body. I put the stylus on my 440 and it was excellent, much like the 152 stylus. I was trying to figure out why the MR body is subpar. Just a bad sample or does the metal body have something to do with it? My 440 measures close ch to ch on DC resistance.

All the ATs I've messed with seem to be greatly improved with a boron or beryllium cantilevered stylus. High inductance ones are easier to manipulate. Like Timeltel's 13Ea with a 155LC stylus is greatly improved, and I think without having to change loading. I used to load my stock 440 at 32K to tame the high end. With the exotic stylus it sounds great at 47K.

Heavier aluminum cantilevers resonate in the audio band and often augment response peaks. The exotic ones resonate near the limit, or past the audio band and also have greater detail/resolution. A lower inductance generator like the 150MLX (350mH) will be harder to manipulate. If it's too aggressive I suspect judicious lowering load resistance is the answer. All AT MMs need < 200pF shunt capacitance which is important to keep the high frequency resonance from being lowered and augmenting treble.
Regards,
Dear Audie, Is the 12AXT a vacuum tube or a solid state device? (If it has no filament, it MUST be solid state, actually.) If the latter, do you know for a fact that it can be dropped in a 7C to replace the 12AT7s or the 12AX7s? (I forget which tube type is used in the 7C, thought it was 12AT7.) Where and in what context did the "12AXT" blow your mind?

As to modifying a 7C, sure, there are many ways to upgrade it with modern parts that did not exist back then. But I personally would not mess with the tube types originally chosen, unless I wanted to change the sound altogether. Just my $.02
Follow-up: A Google search on "12AXT" brings up nada about any such device. I then tried searching on "12AXT tube", then "12AXT transistor", again with no result except a list of references to the "12AX7" vacuum tube that we all know about. Aud, what's up? Thanks.
Lew, here it is - a solid state replacement:
http://amtelectronicsusa.com/productpage12AX7WS.html

Regards,
Holy cow! That's illegal! Perhaps the reason I could not find it under "12AXT" is the fact that its name is "12AX7-WS". What a clever idea. Has anyone besides Audpulse heard one of these devices? Based on specs, it should not give any more gain than a 12AX7 vacuum tube, but if one were to replace an aging 12AX7 with a WS, then it would subjectively appear to have more gain. And I was wrong; the OEM Marantz 7C does indeed use 12AX7s (not 12AT7s).

From the blurb, it would appear that AMT has also made solid state replacements for other tube types.
Fleib, thank you for pointing out the AMT website. You are more than Google.All the descriptions on that site about the product is what I heard during the very short period of listening. The guy said that he has two versions of the product, a high gain one and a low gain. This is the reason why I want to try the high gain one on the Marantz 7c. I do not want my excitement to cloud my judgement but to have an extended home listening.
Solid state or no solid state does not matter too much to me.I was not able to detect that it is not a tube.
Lewn, what is illegal about it ?
The guy said that he developed it about six years ago but put it away. Finance was his problem to push it further. He did acknowledge the fact that somebody put a patent on a similar thing but the application is different from what he is doing. He went further to say that the patent has expired but that he has the first right to the technology since his was on his site before the patent was granted.
Lew the way I see it is that no circuit change is required and it might solve problems for we guys that are in love with tube phonostage. Reduced noise floor.
Audie, My use of the word "illegal" was meant to be taken as humor. Nothing more than that.

The device described on the website appears to be electrically identical to a 12AX7 tube (except I did not see a rating for "mu", which parameter best describes the gain of a vacuum tube). Does AMT have high and low mu versions of this product? Do you know the mu values for both or either?
Lewm, I know nothing about the AMT one but my Tech here in Houston has identical one and that is the one I want to try. As for the mu values I do not know.
C'mon guys:
http://www.jetcityamplification.com/#!retrovalves/ctjr

They're marketed for musicians.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_9_9?url=search-alias%3Dmi&field-keywords=jet%20city%20retrovalve&sprefix=jet+city+%2Cmi%2C207

Regards,
Fleib, Never having heard one of these devices, I share your skepticism. However, Audpulse apparently has heard the 12AX7 version in his or some other person's Marantz 7C, and he's evidently impressed. That's all we've got to go on. Like you, I've got to think that if they were truly revolutionary from an audiophile standpoint, I would be reading about them on TubeDIY and other such threads. Still, never hurts to keep an open mind.
Lew, I never herd of them either. Apparently AMT uses matched fets and probably the JetCity as well. I didn't see AMT for sale and I have no idea about any qualitative differences.

Seems like they get mixed reviews on musicians sites, mostly positive as far as I can tell. Some of them loved them and one guy said it eliminated howling and ringing and sounded better the rest of the time. You can buy them direct from Jet City and it won't cost much to find out. The ones in the red pack are high gain.

I'd guess that audiofool tube heads would be the last to accept something like this even if it was better. I don't particularly like those little 12_ tubes and have no use for them, but they might be way better and quieter in a phono pre. Seems to work out for Audpulse.
Regards,
Fleib I have not used the tube in any of my component. What aroused my interest is my lowly Marantz 7c. After changing the captive cord on the unit to iec, I also asked the tech to increase the power supply. It played mm better than stock. But with this solid state device I started thinking maybe the output can gain a significant db without increasing the noise level. That is just the audiophile in me rearing it's ugly head though I see myself as a music lover.This is also the reason why I am searching for the thread about somebody here in this universe who recently modified the 7c to a better unit for mm cartridge. Can you please help to steer me in the right direction.
The guy with this device is the same person that will do the modification to the 7c and the device will be tried on the unit without incurring any extra cost for the device. The way I see it, I have nothing to loose.
Will definitely report back to this thread as to the performance of the device when tried on the 7c.
AP,
If you're using the line stage section try substituting 12au7 on the output. If you need more gain on phono maybe the high gain Jet City substitute will do it? You'd have to try it. I have no idea if it's appropriate.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/67922-marantz-7c-still-good-today.html

Discussion about preamp viability:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/20465-marantz-preamp.html

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/93159-marant-7c-preamp-diyzone-project.html

Too little gain on phono and too much on line. The line stage seems to be the Rodney Dangerfield part - gets no respect. I think the high gain Jet City pieces are your best hope. You could go out the tape outputs and use it as a phono stage?

Finally - modding and RIAA EQ.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/120643-variability-riaa-eq-tube-characteristics.html

Regards,
Audie, There are many many things that could be done to upgrade a 7C. First of all, replace the selenium rectifiers with Schottky diodes, but in doing so, you need to be sure that the voltages don't change much. Then you can upgrade the filter capacitors in the PS. I agree with Fleib that a 12AU7-like tube would be better in the output stage, but you also need to change some resistors to increase the current flow to the output tube; 12AU7s need much more current than 12AX7, in order to sound best. But I would not even use a 12AU7; I would use a 12FQ7. Much better sounding than any 12AU7. (I've made the comparison in the context of a Quicksilver preamp.) Coupling capacitors can all be upgraded to teflon types or whatever you like. Beyond this, I would need to see a schematic. Anyway, you'd need a schematic in order to revise the circuit for a better output tube,
Dear Raul

What headshell do you recommend for the Audio Technica AT 170ML OCC cartridge? Thanks
Are you guys still using 100kohm input impedance as suggested by Raul or switching back to the standard 47kohm
Don´t waste your time with 100K like I did. Suggested by Halcro and Fleib I switched back to lower values, in fact I´m extremely happy with 20K and enjoying sound quality never before experienced. I no longer miss 47K either but it´s a very good value in general.
My next mod to my Silvaweld phono stage, which I use for MM cartridges, will be to install a rotary switch to allow switching among different load resistances and to add capacitance. At the moment, I am using 100K fixed load in the Silvaweld. I make no claims that there is any magic associated with a 100K load. Years ago, independent of Raul and before I knew he existed, I proved to myself that 100K was superior to 47K for one and only one cartridge, the Grado TLZ. I have never made comparisons with other cartridges.

Harmon, Raul has left the building in search of Elvis.
The same with the phono capacitance value, the lower the better. I noticed this two decades ago when changed from 250 pF to 120 pF for one of my best MMs. Now I have a handful of vintage top MM/IM carts and they all seriously benefit from very low values, the total is 40 pF I´m currently using.
One load fits all?
HO carts require more attention to loading than MCs. Two of the three variables of electrical resonance, the LCR circuit that interacts with mechanical response, is under your control, or it should be.

As a general rule vary resistance with bright or dull SQ and keep capacitance low initially. Too bright - lower resistance value and visa versa.

If there is a mid treble dip in response making the cart sound distant, you might have to add capacitance. Adding capacitance will lower high frequency resonance and help fill in the dip by augmenting treble. It will also roll off the extreme high end. Judicious application of capacitance while varying resistance will often result in a minimal addition of capacitance.

This was the case for me with the Ortofon M20FL Super. 55K and approx. 250pF did the trick.

I think you might find that optimal load will vary somewhat from preamp to preamp and for different systems. Some carts, especially those designed for 4-ch, might sound smoother than most at 100K. Many carts are unlistenable at 100K with jagged response and wild frequency response variations. Sometimes using 100K and lots of capacitance will mimic a MC rising high end, but that depends on the cart.
Regards,
Why no variable resistance MM/MI phono stages? There is, as we see, a market. Soundsmith makes a variable resistance MC stage. Can he not just take out the gain stage?
First, I have only 5 MM carts left so my testimony refers these only. I have no idea how, say a Stanton would perform at very low cap & imp values. And I understand that a cart´s performance depends on the preamp characteristics too. My preamp is different to all others I know on this forum, yours is different to somebody´s etc. Maybe mine and say, Raul´s are "extremes". My preamp gives its best at 40 pF / 20K for the 5 carts. These values are fixed, I would like to have a few other low values too, say 70 pF and 40K.
All my 5 MM carts perform better now with much lower imp & cap values. The SHURE ULTRA and the AT-ML180/OCC, especially blossom like mature ladies at their forties, namely at 40 pF/ 20K. AT actually recommends 100 pF to start with (if my memory serves me correctly ?), so why wouldn´t a bit lower value be as good ? I must admit that I was surprised that the ULTRA prefers 40 pF as 250 pF is the "optimum". Now its sound is very very "flat". It has always been fabulous but now it´s stellar.
All this is just a funny coincidence ? I wouldn´t know and don´t care because now my carts sound better than ever.

"Many carts are unlistenable at 100K with jagged response and wild frequency response variations." Your words.
This is actually what I was trying to say.
Back in the day there were variable resistance MM stage preamps. That TNT article I linked to previously, Load the Magnets, has a picture of the back of a Luxman C12 with a pot for resistance. That article is a good one for understanding how this works.

Loading a low inductance MM is a very different proposition than a high inductance cart. A TK9 or 10ML has inductance of 85mH. Here's Hagerman's electrical resonance calculator. You'll see it just before the first graph. Play with the values and see what happens:
http://www.hagtech.com/loading.html

85mH/600pF still has electrical resonance past the audio band. A 6mm boron cantilever will resonate approximately 27KHz. With a cart like this you have to load down resistance to make it less bright.

With high inductance carts - 681 (900mH), it's trickier if there are response anomalies like the mid treble dip of the M97. In that case you have to maintain 250pF to keep the dip from worsening, and because it's a dull cart, increase resistance load. 62K/250pF is said to be optimal for that one.
A few words of caution: The rest of the article describes electrical properties only and is of limited value for determining optimal load. The mechanical response is of greater value in determining overall response. Best response is getting one to compliment the other.
1) initially keep capacitance as low as possible. Remember total capacitance is arm wires (internal and external) + preamp.

2) with a higher inductance cart (usually) add capacitance only to fill in treble dip. Otherwise, it's just lowering high frequency resonance and rolling off the top end.

Regards,
Harold, When you say you use 20pF of capacitance, I have to assume you are ADDING 20pF to the inherent capacitance of the whole circuit from cartridge leads to phono input. Since the inherent capacitance is typically 100pF to 150pF, depending upon cables, etc, you might consider that the capacitative load seen by your five MM cartridges is more like 120pF to 170pF. Could even be higher. I typically add zero capacitance to the existing capacitance in the circuit, but as noted I've been using 100K as a load.

To add to Fleib's info on phono stages with variable input loading, nearly all the Japanese integrated amplifiers and preamplifiers of the 70s and 80s, and even beyond, provided these adjustments. Many of them even had two phono inputs, one fixed and one with adjustable loading. (See especially Pioneer, Sony, Accuphase, Yamaha,etc.) Also, in the last few years, manufacturers have awakened to this need, and there are now several products that allow selection of load resistance. Not too many yet allow for adding capacitance, that I know of.
Why no variable resistance MM/MI phono stages? There is, as we see, a market.
My Halcro DM-10 Preamp has an inbuilt Phonostage with both variable Resistance AND Capacitance......for the MM Section only..😎
The MC Phonostage has fixed Resistance of 220 Ohms..😊
Displaying an understanding and appreciation of the merits of MM cartridges at the turn of the millennium.....was a brave (and almost unique) position for a high-end amplifier designer....👍
If I could have my wish for an ideal phonostage granted today....it would be for a MM (only) active stage (I would use an SUT for LOMCs) with electronically remote-controlled variable Resistance and Capacitance capability...😍
The changes (particularly for Capacitance) can be quite subtle and need to be heard from the listening position IMHO 😊

In terms of both loadings....every MM cartridge has potentially a different 'ideal' combination...😳
Some of my cartridges....like the Fidelity Research FR-6SE and Garrott P77 like the 100K Ohms loading with minimal Capacitance....whilst others like the Signets and ATs, prefer 40K with a bit extra Capacitance...👀
But this of course assumes that all records are cut 'FLAT'.....which is rarely the case...❓
Using Resistance and Capacitance loadings like 'Tone Controls' from record to record (or even track to track)....can be valid and quite satisfying...😎

Now where is that remote-control....❓👀
Lewm,
I never said using 20 pF. 40 pF with 20K.
I have measured many times that the 100 cm long uninterrupted silver wire from cart leads to phono input has 25 pF at maximum (depends on the actual measurement that´s taking place, it usually varies a bit, more or less as you too may have noticed). My Hi-Fi specialist "removed all capacitance" from the pnono input so there should be practically no capacitance left(?). So I would assume that my preamp´s inherent capacitance is very low´s and to be "safe", I would say that the total value seen by a cart is 40 pF at maximum, including the value of the wire from cart leads to phono input.
Please note, I´m a not a technician and can´t measure the actual inherent capacitance of my preamp. How can I do it, would you help me ?
Interesting hear your thoughts about anyway.
Harold, Sounds like you got your hands on some VERY low capacitance cable, is all I can say. There is added capacitance at the input of a tube phono stage; capacitance develops between the grid and the plate and between the grid and the cathode of a vacuum tube. Typical tube phono stages use a 12AX7 tube at the input, because of its high gain. "Miller capacitance" is a statement that the total capacitance at the grid is also a function of gain. Thus, the 12AX7 has quite a high Miller capacitance, up around 150pF by one calculation. You can easily look it up. There's also a little capacitance associated with any connectors in the path and the wire inside the tonearm. If you have a solid state phono stage, the ss input device can also add some capacitance in parallel with the signal. Different types of transistors (e.g. JFETs vs bipolar types) are different in this regard.
Also, in the last few years, manufacturers have awakened to this need, and there are now several products that allow selection of load resistance. Not too many yet allow for adding capacitance, that I know of.
Don't be fooled by the advertising blurb Lewm.....👀
While most of those new phonostages being released DO include adjustable Resistance loading.....they are in fact adjustable loadings for the MC input only..😢❗️with the MM input fixed at 47K Ohms...😱
Sacre bleu..😡
HERE is the brand new Phonostage from TW Acustic which includes loadings from 50 to 1000 Ohms for MC input....whilst MM is stuck on 47K Ohms and has adjustable Capacitance loading from INSIDE the unit...😫😱⁉️
Thanks for nothing....
Lewn, I tried to call my Hi-Fi specialist and ask about my preamp´s new inherent life but he doesn´t answer his business mobile (probably on holiday). I will try to contact him later...
Yes, top MM ATs recommend 100 -200 pF. See what´s this happy owner, Johnnyb53 has to say about low cap values:
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1334624405&openflup&3&4#3,
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1334624405&openflup&5&4#5 and
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1334624405&openflup&8&4#8

Top SHUREs love very low cap values too apparently, as I have experienced in my system over the decades. I´m using very low values at the moment, the total under 200 pF whatever capacitance inside the preamp... or even under 100 pF perhaps ? Both SHURE and AT have blossomed out like mature women.
Hi Henry, I guess I was thinking specifically of the K&K phono stages. They will build it with adjustable MM loading, if the customer requests it. As I understand it, the load R and C can be selected without opening up the top of the unit. The K&K phono stages are superb by all accounts. Also, doesn't the more expensive EAR phono stage provide for cartridge loading? And the Manley Steelhead definitely does. I think also the latest Parasound by John Curl does. Others may chime in here with additional choices. My Atma-sphere MP1 allows the user to install any value capacitor and/or resistor as a cartridge load, via external screw-terminal binding posts. However, the MP1 circuit is built normally for MC cartridges, with lots of gain; there is an option to reduce gain for MM, if so desired.

Yes, I saw that TW Acustic phono stage at a local show. I like its retro look. Too bad it is not actually retro enough to deal with MM cartridge loading.
I have been reading through this thread for the last few days, a lot of fun! but I have a question for Flieb...

You mentioned a few times having an electrostatic speaker/amp system, "I had mono OTLs direct driving electrostats at 50KV...". I am so curious, I used to work on 2 megawatt RF sources (used to drive a Fusion energy reactor) and the Output tubes only ad 33kv on the anodes. I am curious what speaker system employ 50 kv?

Thanks, Kevin
The Project Ref phonostage RS has both adjustable impedance and capacitance with many values and easily accessible. Plus you select either RIAA or Decca curves. And has both XLR/RCA inputs and outputs. Anyone listen to it? Any good?
Looked up the Project Ref Phonostage and it seems that once again the VARIABLE resistance is for MCs (10-1200 Ohms) with the MM stuck on 10 or 47K Ohms....😢
Hi 3ox, I think the Acoustat panels can be driven with much lower voltage, but I'm sure the storage caps were banks of 50KV each. Each amp had 4 cap tubes.

This was around 30 yrs ago and I didn't design the amp or know/understand exactly how it was configured. I do remember building banks of storage caps all hooked up in series. Photoflash caps seemed to make a big difference. Apologies if my description is inaccurate. I'm not a tube designer.
Regards,
... and load capacitance 100pF, 200pF, 300pF, 420pF, 520pF :/
Why always starting with 100 pF, why not lower values like 10 pF, 50 pF, 100 pF, 150 pF, 200 pF ?!?
Has anyone compared the FR66s to the newer Ikeda IT-407 CR1 tonearm? Any thoughts? In previous years, the Ikeda was available with either copper or silver internal wiring but the recent models don't mention anything about the tonearm wiring. Can anyone comment what type of wiring is used in the latest editions? It would seem intuitive that the later Ikeda IT407 should be a better performer than the FR66s having improved material and bearings over the FR66s but the proof is in the hearing.
Adding capacitance just moves the resonance freq. higher , in case of overload just a bigger "splash
' in the music.
If you can balance the arm just play the damn thing, vinyl doesn't need all this overthinking.
LOL. Schubert, I like your back to basics thoughts. Obviously you are a fan of classic music but your attitude is kinda punkish. I´m a fan of prog rock but Yes actually had kinda punkish attitude too when they came back with vengeance, "Going for the One" in 1ate 1977 and "Tormato" a year later. And they still were the leading group in prog. That´s rock´n´roll.
Let´s just play these damn cartridges !
Dear 3ox (and Fleib),
I think your point was well taken. It is not likely that the Acoustat X speaker, to which Fleib refers, could stand 50kV on its stators for more than a few seconds before a spectacular explosion might occur. Typical DC voltages for ESLs range from as low as 1500V to, maybe, 10kV tops. For example, my Sound Lab speakers probably put about 5kV to 7kV on the stators (best guess), whereas my Beveridge speakers operate at 3200V.
Should have added that it is entirely possible the Acoustat X operates at circa 10kV, but not 50kV for sure.