Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
Dear friends: That's were the top of the line up grades but as Nandric posted somewhere: from the same source we can get superior overall cartridge performance with this " entry " level up grades: tapered aluminum with pressure fitted nude line (+/- 150 Euro) and boron / elliptical (?) for +/- 160 Euro.

Other than my Goldring G800 Axel (between others ) has on hand by me: Nagatron 9600, Azden P50E, Acutex flat nose 320, Clearaudio Virtuoso Wood, Astatic MF-300, Acutex 315 ( long nose ), Ortofon MC3000MK2, Dynavector Karat Nova 13D, Highphonic MCA6 and counting.

One advantage from my side is that I own two samples on some cartridges or at least a second stylus replacement sample and where I have not does not matters I make the up grade anyway.

Next step is to go a head with my ATs and a lot of different lines/models Empire cartridge ( I think I own around 10 models on the Empire lines. ) and with my AKGs. Well step by step because that means money.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Lew, I'm quite happy with separate high-gain and low-gain balanced phono stages to accomodate LOMC and MM/MI cartridges. I ordered the 98lLZS to have at least one MM type that will work with the high-gain MP-1.

Raul, I'm not much of a "collector" either. Having had an excellent experience with a Pickering XSV3000/D3000, I felt that the small difference in price between the NOS 981LZS as compared to refurb/upgrade of another motor, is inconsequential. Most of the better MM/MI cartridges left in my drawer will justify eventual retipping services.
Dear Dgarretson, I am not sure what you mean with 'the small diference in price between the NOS 981 LZS compared.'..etc.
If compared with the Pickering 3000 (= Stanton 881 S) the price difference is considerable. If you mean the retipping price(s) it may be useful to get the right perspective reg. Axel's prices. The tapered aluminum with pressure fitted nude line +/-150 Euro ; the boron cantilever(very thin kind)/elliptical +/- 160 Euro. The damn foreigners need not even to pay the 19% VAT (value added tax) which we the European must pay. I don't believe that the beryllium cantilever, Gyger II and the 'real' Shibata styli are worth the price difference. Anyway the mentioned prices (150-160 Euro) look to me like bargain prices for the offered quality.BTW those I have ordered for my two Virtuosos's black.

Regards,
The damn foreigners need not even to pay the 19% VAT (value added tax) which we the European must pay.

Well maybe if the damn foreigners would hold up sending Axel their retips for say "just two weeks" I may see my Axel rebuilt cartridge in 2012 ?
Just a thought...a selfish one at that...
Dear Nadric, so to combine your post with Raul's and Timeltel's: Axel's Euro 160-350 rebuild of a customer-suppied Stanton 881/Pickering XVS3000 stylus assembly will surpass NOS stock 981 motor/stylus assembly? Has anybody around here actually made this comparison? This is an experiment I may try.
Dear Chris, I am really sorry that you need to wait so long
but your repair is not a retip but the new coils which Axel
can't repair but need to get from somewhere.

Dear Dgarretson, Why should anyone change the Stanton& Pickering styli ? I own two Stantons 881 S with stereohedron styli which look and sound very good to me.Am
I missing something?

Regards,
Nandrioc: "The damn foreigners need not even to pay the 19% VAT (value added tax) which we the European must pay."

IMO you put the 'damn'; in the wrong place; it should have been "The foreigners need not even pay the damn 19% VAT (value added tax) which we Europeans must pay."
.
Dear Nandric, This thread is mostly about discovering the best of the best MM/MI. As the market price for top NOS cartridges like Stanton 981LZS, Empire 4000D/III, Astatic MF-100, has escalated to USD$500+, the question is whether cantilever and stylus replacement by artisans like Axel can raise the performance of more affordable mid-line bodies to surpass those $500 exotics. And if so, which ones?
No need to apologize Nikola. I know I am very lucky to even find someone willing to repair the cartridge.
I was being sarcastic. BTW – please remember not to discuss gov’t taxes with a Canadian – you will get no sympathy.
Jeffreybehr, You are 100% right; the 'damn' 19% VAT are in partucalar frustrating when added to the import duty of 12% such that every item that passes the border transfers 31% of its value to the Dutch treasure or the governement. The strange thing is that all the members of any Dutch governement are conviced to be the champions of the free
trade. You can imagine how I feel when I see some object of desire on the Agon market or ebay.com. That is btw why I am forced to prefer the 'damn' German ebay.

Regards,
Dear Garretson, The Germans have this saying:'the thoughts
are duty free'. My thought about your hope is: you can put
the sadlle on a caw but it is obviously an illusion to think to get a horse this way.

Dear Chris, the patience is the most boring of all the
human virtues. No wonder nobody is fond of this one. No need to apologize either.

Regards,
Dave, An issue that came up early on in this thread, and which was never definitively resolved, was what happens to the suspension of an MM or MI cartridge after 30 years post-manufacture. There is a good possibility that it may have stiffened up considerably and so gives lower than advertised compliance. Raul found that sending off some of his cartridges for a rebuild to include the suspension was tranformative. I have mixed experiences; the 980 seems to work great (but might it be even better with a rebuild? Quien sabe). So do my Grace Ruby and Acutex LPM320. On the other hand, by very own Grado TLZ, which I bought new in the early 80s and which was in storage in my bedroom closet for a couple of decades, definitely lost something, does not sound nearly as good as my aural mamory tells me it once did. So, it's kind of a crapshoot. On the other hand, even if you were to have an issue with the Stanton, it is not much additional expense to correct it.

Separate MM stage: Yes, I bought a Silvaweld all-tube SWH550 to use with my MM and MI high output cartridges; I run it into the MP1 linestage. It's a great piece. It has MC capability, in a pinch.
Dear Dgarretson: Well I know that is almost impossible to follow all the posts in the thread but I have some examples where the vintage cartridge up grade/date performs way better than the original not mid but top of the line: Sonus Dimension 5, Acutex 315, Clearaudio Virtuoso, Technics P100CMK4, AKG P100LE, etc, etc and today I'm sure that all my vintage top of the line that already send to Axel will outperform the original one: I have no single doubt about.

In other site I learned that the famous Garrot P77 ( that I own. ) share the same cartridge motor than the A&R Cambridge 77 and some other cartridge models,.
Well subject is that some A&R 77 Cambridge owners bought a Jico SAS stylus replacement ( today new design ) and they swears that not only outperform the original Cambridge but the Garrot P77 and even the today Garrot Optim ( ? ) that sent it back 2K dollars and you know for how much you can buy an A&R 77 Cambridge? no more than 100.00 and with broken stylus way lower and the up grade with the JIco is only 111.00

I have no doubt either that if you take your 981 and made an up grade will beats the original performance and I mean not different but better performance after the up grade.

I'm not refering you when I posted that make no sense to buy top of the line vintage cartridges if in the cartridge line exist lower prices for similar cartridge motors and this " IF " is the whole subject and answer to own the best of the best.

regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Raul, but the question remains,which of the Pickerings have the same motor ?
Since I learnt that the A & R Cambridge C77 has the same motor as the Garrott P77, I have settled for the C77.
The Goldring G800 is another gem to chase according to Dominic but without the stylus. I have been lucky to get a G850(no stylus)which is claimed to be better than the G800 by another person though I will still try to get the G800.
Folks, here it is:
SUMIKO PEARL, SHELTER 201, MISSION SOLITAIRE, CORAL 666, CORAL 555, ANDANTE F9, GRACE F9, all have the same motors.
Instead of paying top dollars for the Grace F9 or the Andante F9, seek the others which comes up cheap on Ebay.
Regarding Re-Cantilevered cartridges:

I just want to remind people that it is not as simple as getting a cartridge "retipped".

There is a LOT of work that went into the very best cantilevers, and looking at something like the EPC100 and its close relatives with CVD Boron tube cantilevers, there is NOTHING in todays market at ANY price that matches these.

The objective of this very sophisticated cantilever was to move resonances out beyond 70kHz - the only other cartridge series that I know of that achieve this, are the Dynavector Karat series, who achieve it by having a very very short cantilever (less than 3mm.. varying by version)

Taking an EPC100 and placing a "ordinary" exotic cantilever on it (boron, ruby, etc..) will result in a much lower resonance frequency, and with the bell curve of frequency/amplitude extending more than an octave downwards, a high likelihood of a rising top end is the result. (And is one of the reasons why almost all MC's have a rising top end!)

The Pickering/Stanton cantilevers were good but nowhere near that level of sophistication, and it is quite likely that they can be replaced with the currently available exotics with equivalent or better performance.
They key here being the effective tip mass achieved and the rigidity of the cantilever...

The second issue is related to how a relatively neutral uncoloured response (frequency) is achieved on an MM/MI high inductance cartridge. (yes I am excluding the Stanton 980LZS/Pickering XLZ7500).

I have mentioned it before but it bears repeating when we are talking about re-tipping. - The retipped stylus will have a different frequency response due to having a different resonant frequency. (in the case of multi-part telescoped styli like Grado or SAS several resonant frequencies) - but the inductance, capacitance and resistance setup of the cartridge is based on a set of assumptions about the frequency response (caused by the resonant frequency) - once you change the resonant frequency (by changing the stylus) - you can only achieve a neutral response once more by adjusting C & R to compensate....

I agree that many (but not all) of these cartridges can be improved over their "new" configuration.
Certainly all the AT's with the solid boron or beryllium cantilevers can be at least matched with current boron or ruby cantilevers.
Stantons/Pickering may be able to be bettered.
Shure's beryllium tube cantilevers - again, nothing out there like it today - it is possible that a ruby cantilever would get close... but my gut feeling is that even the ruby cantilever will bring the resonant frequency down lower than the original.

Another remark - Raoul's proposal of using 100k loading definitely raises the amplitude of the resonance at the rolloff frequency (generated by the LCR EQ circuit created by loading + inductance)- but whether that is a good or bad thing will depend A LOT on the particular setup....
In many cases better results are achieved with a lowered R load than with a raised one - each setup has to be measured then adjusted for best possible results!

bye for now

David
Dear Raul, 'entry level up grades: tapered aluminum/nude
line + boron/elliptical'? What are you talking about?
My Virtuoso(s) was the 'top' with the original stylus
already and become 'top+top' with the mentioned upgrades.
How is that, that 'top+top' is 'entry level' upgrade?
I thought that you belong to the 'functionalist' (aka pragmatic )
category and not to the 'snobbish' one. Your own categorization btw.

Dear David, You provided the technical explanation for the
different cantilever/ styli combos and I would like to add
the commercial kind. 'Papa Gyger' started the styli company
in Switzerland while the 'son Gyger' improved the company with the help of Van den Hul. They designed and produced Gyger I, Gyger II and Gyger S styli. But the styli (part)
of the company hardly made any profit. The 'son Gyger' try for some time to get read of this company. So probable there are just few producers left. Ogura being the best known one. No cart producer or retip service produces their own cantilevers nor styli. They buy from the suppliers the whole cantilers/styli combos. The reason for the 'dominance' of the boron cantilevers is obvious: demand and supply. While boron was considered to be the 'exotic' kind some time ago there is hardly a price difference with aluminum kind . About 10 Euro by Axel.
I own the AT 180 and the Signet 9CL and can confirm your
statement that such cantilevers are not more made. So those who own carts with such cantilevers will probable not improve their carts with a new cantilever. They should
try to get a new stylus only. Then we have ''Lew's question'' about the suspension. Impossible to answer a priori but 30 years old 'rubber ring' causes at least some psychological trouble in the sense of: 'what if...?'
I intend to ask Axel if the suspension check + suspension substitution can be get as separate service. Meaning less cost then his 'retip service' which consist in substitution of both : the cantilever and the stylus.

Regards,
Hi Nandric,

I have a strong feeling that the AT180 and TK8CL solid beryllium cantilevers (I think?) would be very very similar to the currently available solid boron.
Differences would not be of an order of magnitude in any case.

Whereas with something like the Technics boron tube cantilevers I would expect the differences between the original and a new "solid" cantilever to be much greater (and worse).

I Have a TK9 and TK25 body both of which are waiting their turn for a new stylus or retip.....
I do not know whether ruby or boron would be the better option... but am in no hurry, so I keep reading here and stocking up the "information bank"...

bye for now
David
Nandric,

"I intend to ask Axel if the suspension check + suspension substitution can be get as separate service. Meaning less cost then his 'retip service' which consist in substitution of both : the cantilever and the stylus."

I just had Axel replace the suspension in a Signet TK7LCa stylus. The stylus/cantiliver was in good shape but the body would drag on records that were not flat. Cost: 60 euros with a 11 day turnaround. I could not have been more satisfied with the results!

Regards,
Don

Dear Dlaloum: Agree. One important subject is to ask the re-tipping source to make the work conforming the cartridge needs especially on the cantilever length and suspension tunning.

Yes, that load impedance along capacitance cartridge set up is critical. I found out that 100K works fine with almost all the cartridges I have but as you said we have to be sure making some measures about.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Audiopulse: As I posted I'm not an expert on the Stanton/Pickering subject but I read on VE and Lencoheaven ( richard is the right member to ask here. ) sites the information on similar motors for different models so we have to take a look down there.

In the other side Dominic was my reference to obtain the Goldring G800 that it is already on the whole fixing retip/refresh work.
This G800 ( modified. ) is the today Dominic's reference so we have to try it. We can get for a few coins and then the retipping!

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Nandric: Well that " entry level " was to have a difference with the top up grade works.

I decided to move on this refurbishing vintage cartridges because we have to " move " we have to keep walking trying to learn trying to discover all what is a head of what we already have already know. IMHO there is a lot of land a head so why not try to conquer it.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Audpulse - does this mean that these stylus assemblies are interchangeable (i.e., I can use a Shelter 201 stylus on a Grace F9 body)?
Dear Don, I thought to know Alex better than the rest because I spoke by phone with him. But there is always a 'better boss'. I don't believe that Axel is aware of the danger of the 'promises for cheap'. Ie even those who have no suspension problem of any kind may think:' what the hell ...for such kind of money why not?'

Dear David, No idea why but both Raul and you have the intention to downgrade my top-carts. From both sides of the globe btw. Raul is calling them 'entry level' and the
other (David)first renamed my Signet 9CL to the status of 8 CL and deliberately avoided to mention the pure gold (24K) layer on those Beryllium cantilevers. Meaning: the delicate damping of the 40 Khz rise of 2 dB. Because of my age I hear nothing above 11Khz but I learned that my bones do and am glad with some work out for them. My two Eton 11'' bass drivers (the best of the best)per side do care for my belly.

Regards,
I have a Jico SAS stylus 1 on its way over from Japan. I intend to try it out on both the Garrott Bros. P77 and on the Grace F9. I will post the results after it arrives and is broken in.

Regards,
Don
Audpulse - does this mean that these stylus assemblies are interchangeable (i.e., I can use a Shelter 201 stylus on a Grace F9 body)?

That is a question. Try it if you have the stylus available and let us know.
What I posted is what I was told by people in the re-tipping business. No first hand experience.

Ben.
Nandric, didn't you have 2 Virtuosos re-tipped, 1 with aluminum and 1 with boron? If I remember correctly you said that they sounded similar. Any updates on that?

FWIW on another forum a fellow who makes carts, Blue Angel, said that he has bags full of old carts that were given to him and he has yet to see a dried out rubber bushing. Many were over 30 yrs old. They've been using synthetic rubber for a long time.

I concur with everything Dlaloum said about cantilevers and performance. If anything, it's even more complex than what he stated. All carts, MM and MC have a naturally rising high end. It's damping that tames it and also causes amplitude/phase anomalies in the treble. MMs tend to use more damping than MCs and inductance in the output will lower the high frequency resonance, making things worse. Adding shunt capacitance will roll off the extreme treble and usually make it brighter right below that point. I can't help thinking that loading some carts at 100K and adding 200 or 300pF + cables, is the wrong approach. Inductance is the Achilles heel of HO carts. I've read here that some carts are used with their tails up in the air or down low. IMO this is to compensate for improper loading. SRA should coincide with the record, not to correct a weird load.
Regards,
Hi everyone,

This thread is really inspiring. I bought last week a NOS Nagaoka MP-50 which replaced my Dynavector DV20XH on my Rega P3 with a RB300 arm. I've been running that new cartridge for only 5 hours on two days but already, many things impressed me: there are a lot more details on record I'm familiar with, the soundstage is more organised, every back vocal have been improved in the space, guitar attack are better too, etc. The only concern is about sibilance of some female voices. Maybe you guys can help me on that.

Finally, thanks Raul for all the time invested on that demarche and your open mind.

Sébastien
Flieb, You wrote, "I can't help thinking that loading some carts at 100K and adding 200 or 300pF + cables, is the wrong approach." I cannot help but take Nandric's didactic approach to this statement. It would not be surprising that for "some cartridges" this would be the wrong approach. Could it also be true that for some cartridges, this is the best approach? Anyway, I don't think anyone advocated adding both R and C. Raul and I once discussed just using a 100K load vs 47K, with no added C. I can tell you for only one specific example, my old Grado TLZ, that it definitely sounded better that way, and in the treble region where one might most expect to hear the good or the bad of a choice in loading. But I appreciate what you and David have taught, that each cartridge should be approached on its own merits or demerits. (Actually, you're preaching to the converted.) There is no magic universal loading that makes them all sound their best. I am running my Grace Ruby into a 100K load right now, with no added capacitance and relatively low capacitance cables. It sounds wonderful is all I can say; if it could sound better with a different R and C load, tell me about it.
Hello all I have to add another MM gem to totl category. Now that my 155lc/160ml combo has brokein the musical presentation it throws out has earned that status. Now that I have finally got my hands on a at15sa i still need a 20ss stylus for a at shootout.

The 155?160 combo is well detailed along with sweet musical enjoyment.

Back to the beach weekend
Mike
Hey Don, Definitely keep us posted on what you hear with the Garrott P77 cart and the Jico SAS. I have only used Jico on one other cartridge( Technics 205) and did not personally like the results.

I absolutely love the Garrott P77. Do you think they did some special Mojo to this cartridge or is the stylus just different from the AR P77, Grace, and all the others that supposedly work on this motor.
Regards, Fleib: Dgarretsons' worrisome question, -" whether cantilever and stylus replacement (---) can raise the performance of more affordable mid-line bodies to surpass those $500 exotics. And if so, which ones?"- well, the considerations may be somewhat more intricate than one might wish for.

Stanton 500/Pickering V15 and NP, two coil moving magnet.
Stanton 600/Pickering Phase IV and others with "IV", four coil moving iron.
Stanton 680, 681, Pickering XV-15, four coil moving iron.
Stanton 880, 881, 980, 981, high or low impedance, Pickering XSV-series, XLZ7500, 4500 & 3500, quadraphonic capability, four coil moving magnet.

"Mk-11" models have samarium-cobalt magnets. But then things get a little more complicated. Collected this, and the previous cart associations, from Lenco Heaven. "Carl" worked on this, thanks, Carl:

STANTON
980/981HZ: 800Ω, 450mH
880/881: 900Ω, 510mH
Collectors Series 100: 500Ω, 270mH

PICKERING
XSV3000: 600Ω, 270mH
XSV4000: 900Ω, 510mH
XSV5000: 600Ω, 290mH
XUV4500: 600Ω, 290mH

Anyone see any errors?

For stylus compatibility: http://www.kabusa.com/stantonx.htm

So the ability to vary loading, as Dlaloum advises, is obviously a factor. Stanton was (according to others) also involved in aerospace metallurgy, what appears to be a cheap alu. cantilever may not be so simple after all. There are also snippets suggesting that the elliptical styli for the low impedance "hybrid" carts are not to be dismissed as "also rans". Lots of options here, further complicated by the incompatibility between MM & MI groupings and styli that physically fit both types. Makes stylus swopping with an AT look easy.

Hey Mike, the ATN155lc is a good selection. Looking forward to your comparison with the 15Sa/ATN20SS. ATN15XE for a more relaxed presentation, maybe too much so for some.

Peace,
Hi Acman3,

I know these are not stocked piled. They are made to order. I was contacted by a Tomoko Tani / JICO who had a question for me and stated they would not begin the manufacture of my order until I provided them with my reply.
The tip is a single cystral octahedon mounted on a boron cantiliver. The only thing I don't like about it is that the tip is bonded, not presure fit. Quite a bit different than either of the cartridges I plan on trying it on. Should be quite interesting!
Regards,
Don
Hi Timetel,

"ATN15XE for a more relaxed presentation, maybe too much so for some."

Interesting comment. I actually perfer the 15Xe over the 20ss. In my system, the 20ss along with the 4000DIII are the 2 most relaxed cartridges in my arsnal!
Timeltel, you left out the low output members of the family..

Stanton 980LZ and Pickering XLZ7500s

The XLZ7500s is 3ohm and 1mH
I have also seen the XSV3000/XSV3003 quoted as 500ohm/270mH which makes it identical to the Stanton Collectors series 100...

bye for now

David
Hi Don,

I don't think pressure fit is possible on a solid boron cantilever...

The tip is therefore bonded (it sits in a dab of glue on the tip - I posted some photos on VE in the stylus shape thread)
It looks almost identical to the method also used by AT on their Solid boron cantilever microline styli (photos of these out there as well)

Is the Stylus1 a match for the Grace F9 and close relatives?

I know that people have hybridised Grace bodies with Shure styli (shank removed from plastic mounting inserts perfectly into Grace body apparently) - and the SAS styli may be in the same boat - but it the surround also fits that is a substantial bonus!

bye for now

David
Sebastien - sibilance has two likely/possible causes:

1) Mistracking - this need not be gross mistracking of the needle jumping from the groove type, but even slight mistracking will quickly lead to audible issues at the high end....
Causes of mistracking...
arm mass / cartridge compliance mismatch
Cartridge & arm alignment / adjustment
Bad/Worn out/damaged stylus

2) Rising top end - if your setup has the wrong cartridge loading you may be boosting the sibilant frequency zones and therefore highlighting sibilance - always worth while checking the cartridge loading!

HTH

bye for now

David
Don, is "too relaxed" code for a dropping top end?
If so it is fixable with lowered capacitance or raised resistance...
Shure ML120/140 Ultra300/400 Dual version body !?

I just came across a very interesting add on ebay...

For a Dual TKS380e cartridge

I had not heard of this cartridge before, but on doing a little research it appears to be a Dual mount version of the very very well regarded (and very short lived) Shure ML series.

For those of you running a Dual with the custom cartridge mounting system, or those having the dual 1/2" adapter for the custom mounting system, this could be a bargain gem!

This one seems to come with a basic eliptical mounted - but ML120 ML140 and Ultra version styli are still available for these....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHURE-CARTRIDGE-VINTAGE-PHONO-STYLUS-TKS-380K-NEW-needle-DUAL-/300692763269?_trksid=e17001.m503&_trkparms=algo%3DRIC.CFNP%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D6%26pmod%3D330714405734%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7706155767443029350

bye for now

David
Dear Lew, I assume that with ''Nandric's didactic approach'' you are refering to quantification (theory)?
I learned about 'quantification' from Frege but he called
the subject 'generality': the 'universal , universal kind'
(aka 'all' quantor) and 'universal existential kind' ( the
'some' quantor). I needed 2 weeks to grasp the 'all'kind.
Frege: with 'all humans are mortal' I am not stating anything about some African chief about whom I know nothing. It is rather: 'If Napoleon is human then Napoleon
is mortal'. This 'explanation' was even more confusing. To
me the chief or whoever was included by the mortals and, as such, alas, mortal. The help came from the 'some' quantor: 'Some(one) has stolen my car'. Then at last I got the picture :quantors are not refering expressions.
However I still keep my old conception but only for the Croats: 'all of them are traitors'.

Regards,

Hi Timeltel, The only Stanton I ever owned is the 980LZ that I currently have. In the mid '80s I had a Pickering XSV-4000 (I think it was) that I didn't keep very long.

**Stanton was (according to others) also involved in aerospace metallurgy, what appears to be a cheap alu. cantilever may not be so simple after all.** Does this somehow make it a superior aluminum alloy? The cantilevers are relatively short which is a good thing, but for some prices I've seen for orig replacement styli, you could have custom ones made. One advantage with most MM/MI carts is replaceable stylus. Voicing a cart is a complex issue and has to be done on an individual basis, but now there are more options for cantilever/tip combinations. Perhaps experimentation would yield something beyond the limitations of alum/stereohedron. With your knowledge of cart parameters and cantilever/tips, perhaps you can tell us empirically, what combination is best for a particular cart.
Regards,
Dear Fleib, I already posted about those metallurgist , the former alchemist, and stated that they become very succesful. But that thy are also involved in aerospace I had no idea(grin). My other assumption regarding the (few)cantilever/ styli suppliers is confirmed by Fremer in his review of Carr's Atlas cart:'Lyra buys preassemled stylus/
cantilevers from outside suppliers, in this case Ogura'.
First the good news. The cantilever is of diamond -coated
boron. Ie Axel can probable order those by Ogura as well the microridge 'configuration'.
The bad news is. The stylus is not glued in this boron cantilever in the right way. The stylus shank was down 3* from perpendicular , at 87*. To achive 92* one needs to raise the back of the arm for 16mm. Ie the correct SRA can probable be only (?)set with the help of the USB microscope (Stereophile , May 20120).

Regards,
Hi Dlaloum,

Jico confirmed your thoughts on the pressure fit. He felt it was possible with much trial and error but not something that they would concider as being feasable, nor were they willing to try. They have also heard that the "stylus 1" is a plug in fit on the P77. There are alot of rumors flying around as to what else it would work on. Concidering one of the rumors pertain to the Grace F9, and I having a Grace F9, I will also try it as a plug in. We'll see?
The term "too relaxed" I think is open for interpretation. If there is an offical audiophile definition for "relaxed", I would like to hear it. I associate it with the word smooth or romantic. The smoother or more romantic my a cartridge sounds to me, the more relaxed I would concider its presentation to be. I thing Timeltel's defination is alittle different than mine. I was kind of fishing with him to pin him down a little.
Hi Don,

terms like "smooth" and "romantic" are usually problematic...
They have a strong tendency towards subjectivism.... and as a result can mean something different to each and every person.

Usually when I see the two used together, the cartridges for which they are used tend towards having a more prominent mid and lower range with a slightly depressed high end eg: Shure V15VxMR.

The risk when fishing with non specific bait, is you might catch non-specific fish!

Bye for now

David
I just picked up an Empire 2000 body and put an after market astatic 4000dii stylus on it. I think I understand what Don is talking about when he says his 4000diii is smooth. That is the thought that came to my mind when I listened to mine. I would not describe it as having a rolled off treble though. I think it's dynamics are what makes it smooth sounding to me.

Sean
Hi Sarcher30,

I am sitting hear listing to "I Was Walking Through The Woods", by Buddy Guy reading your latest post. Mounted in my Graham arm is the very cartridge combo you just mentioned. The Empire 2000E with the Astatic 4000DIII stylus. Small world isn't it! Great cartridge combo BTW!

Regards,
Don
Hi Don,

I have my DII on my Reed 3Q. I was concerned that the compliance would be to high for this arm but it seems to work fine. I only have about 6 hours on it so far. It's to soon to make any firm judgements but it sounds good so far.

Regards,

Sean
"Astatic 4000DIII" = Empire 4000DIII?

Dear Nikola, I think Fleib's proposition that NOT all cartridges will sound best into a 100K, high-capacitance load is more analogous to the proposition "NOT all Croats are traitors".

I'd like some of the collective wisdom here to comment on my earlier question: I have the Grace Ruby (ruby cantilever/elliptical stylus), which I have praised ad nauseam (sorry) as being great, in my system. I also have a second Grace Ruby that I bought in broken condition; it needs a new cantilever and stylus. In the US, SoundSmith can rebuild it with a ruby cantilever and their line contact stylus. What differences would you expect in terms of sound quality, resulting from a change to LC from elliptical? And also, can Axel repair it with ruby cantilever/elliptical stylus? (I cannot translate his website.)
Regards, Griffithds: Relaxed. Similar words: Warm, mellow, easygoing, laid-back.
Antonyms: Tight, hard, rigid, harsh, severe.

In audiophile-speak, warm, romantic or organic are "buzz words" implying a lack of accuracy, coloration, wooden, wooly, smearing or the shearing off of sharp attack. The ATN15XE is, relative to the ATN20SS, "warmer", the term "relaxed" was deliberately chosen to avoid these negative connotations.

Having both the AT15Sa/ATN15XE & the 20SS, try "focused" or "detailed" (which the 20SS certainly is) before "analytical", this can also suggest clinical, aggressive or bright. Both carts are in frequent rotation, which cart is preferred depends on music, mood and inclination.

That brings us back to subjective vs. objective, a strong argument can be made for either case.

Peace,