For Goldring G800 fans.
The price is higher and the shipping is no longer free. Word gets out pretty fast. Still a good deal, though; I have bought 3 and am glad to see them still available.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350599487935?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
John |
Dear Dover, Fleib already mentioned 'tubed' boron cantilever in the context of the Genesis 1000. I had no idea how those are made but your 'combos' with aluminum are not alloy or amalgam but more like 'gilded'. Anyway the kind one see at present are all (?)solid rod. The producers as well as the repair services are obviously dependent from their supplier. If Axel could get those from elsewhere he would not need to increase the prices. He is very disturbed by Japanese huge increase in prices. For obvious reasons. I think that even Raul will need to temper his 'refresh-retip' euphoria with the new prices.
Regards,
|
Greetings all, Thank you to all of you who have offered suggestions to correct the problem with the Maestro. The twisting was easily corrected with a slight twist with tweezers, but it was your encouragement that gave me guts to attempt the adjustment (Fleib). I would be interested in any reviews from Maestro owners who have used the AT-95 or AT-150MLX styli.
Acman3, Your secret is safe with me,
Don |
Nandric - boron cantilevers used to come in both tube and solid rod. The Technics EPC 100 hollow boron cantilever was formed on an aluminium rod, and then the aluminium was removed with acid to leave the ultra thin boron cantilever. So yes you can have an hybrid aluminium/boron cantilever. At least one of the super MM's referred to in this thread had a boron splattered aluminium cantilever. |
Degarretson,
" I would have increased confidence in SS's $500 Grace Ruby stylus if Peter would post the promised photo of the product and fix the URL order link that currently describes a VPI Zephyr. "
So I'm not the only person who found this irritating!
Regards, Don |
Some news about Clearaudio MMs - Apparently they have new bodies and are designated V2. These aren't on CA web site yet; I saw them at NeedleDr. If the specs are to be believed, they are identical. Dr says the magnets are stronger for greater output, but that doesn't agree with the specs. It looks like the bodies have a more extensive wood (ebony) jacket, and that's it.
Grbluen2, I suspect your cantilever is twisted in the mount, as Timeltel suggests. Boron is rather brittle and would tend to break if the whole thing didn't twist. You can examine this rather easily by removing the stylus assembly. Carefully pry up the plastic piece holding the stylus to the bottom of the cart. That plastic piece has a lip around the edges. You'll see an AT stylus assembly with the V configured magnets. See if they're straight.
If they are off center, I suggest you buy a cheap aftermarket AT-95 stylus, for the plug (plastic piece). This plug will have a screw (compliance screw) to facilitate cantilever replacement. The CA plug does not have this screw, it has a fitting. Stylus assembly will have to be transplanted, because you need the screw to make the adjustments for perfect alignment.
If your stylus is damaged, the only aftermarket stylus available are straight aluminum cantilevers with various bonded styli. Some of these are pretty good, but if you want boron/microline like orig, then I suggest sending to a re-tipper. I believe CA charges something like $600 for what is essentially a $300 AT-150MLX equivalent replacement. If you'd like to see pics or post pics, or have further questions, look at the first and last pages of this thread. http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=88878.0 Regards, |
Dear all, I got Axel's answer . He is very sorry but after his vacation he had 170 emails to answer. He deed try to answer all emails but those who eventualy got no answer should write again and will get his answer. He used this occasion to announce new retip prices which are caused by his Japanese supplier who inreased their prices with 70-100%. The new prices are:
1. conical/aluminum 89 Euro 2. elliptical/aluminum 99 E. 3. nude line/aluminum 179 E. 4. hyper ellip/alu 199 E. 5. shibata/ alu 199 E. 6. nude ell/ alu 225 E. 7. nude ell/ boron 359 E. 8. nude shibata/carbon 265 E. 9. nude shibata/boron 495 E. 10.Gyger II /boron 395 E.
Regards, |
Dear Dgarretson, Thanks for this info . I have no idea if titanium and aluminum can be 'mixed' in some kind of amalgam but to my knowledge titanium is not 'shining' while the cantilevers are. My memory is not anymore what 'it' was but I am somehow sure that our Professor used the same description for some Empire cantilevers: 'space age (NASA) connection'. However I don't believe that boron can be mixed with aluminum. Anyway our cooperation regarding the 'status' of aluminum produced already some results. My only hope is that our Professor will not write an poem about this question. His prose is already pretty difficult for me even with my new, big English dictionary which btw I bought because of Lew. All those English synonyms ...like 'plinth=base' (but not footers) are very confusing for a foreigner.
Regards,
|
Dear Nandric, the Acutex 4XX-series manual mentions use of "space-age[cantilever] materials like boron and titanium." One may presume that this would at least apply to the top 420 model. |
Dear Professor& Fleib, When we talk about 'aluminum cantilevers' we never (?) mention 'alloy' possibility. I have heard about magnesium/aluminum alloy for this and other purpose but because metallurgy is not a subject I know anything about you both can probable say more about the 'actual situation'. I noticed by AKG 'Super Nova' and Acutex 420 how thin the cantilevers are and assume that those would be very 'weak' if made from aluminum alone. My intention is to defend the 'poor aluminum' against the discrimination in comparison with the so called 'exotic kinds'. Regards, |
Thanks, Ecir38. I now see that there is a minor bug in SS's F9 URL link. There are two lines in the link to get further info on the Grace F9: one line leads to the F9 template and the other line leads to the Zephyr template. |
Dear Lew, I never got or grasped this 'travel in time' which seems to be connected with Einstein. Even more difficult to grasp is 'time inertia'. You wrote to me asking about Axel's upgrades on 28-9-12 . According to our usual way to 'measure' time this means about 10-12 days. In your own time conception this means 'at least 2-3 months ago' as you 'informed' Acman. Because there are also others who complain about Axel's 'deviant' (from the assumed German) behaviour I just wrote to Axel and asked what his 'usual time' is to answer emails. As soon as I get his answer I hope to 'clear' this issue for everyone. There are some humorous stories about the 'rumours' as the one that Lew is a gay but other are more damaging.
Regards, |
Order link worked fine for me, although not buying one at this time.
http://www.sound-smith.com/cartridges/quickorder7.html?Admin@sound-smith.com |
Lewm, I would have increased confidence in SS's $500 Grace Ruby stylus if Peter would post the promised photo of the product and fix the URL order link that currently describes a VPI Zephyr. |
Dear Acman I sent SS an email on this subject (replacement ruby cantilever cum LC stylus for my broken Grace Ruby) at least 2-3 months ago, and I received no response at all. I figure if my interest in spending the requisite sum is so boring to them, why force myself upon them? I may give them one more chance, based on the fact that when I was a bachelor, I would give a second chance to any woman who attracted me enough to cause me to want to spend time with her in the first place.
The attraction (to the SS cantilever/stylus, not to single women) is that apparently they can just send you the finished product; no need to send off my broken Grace Ruby to Europe and hope for the best as regards shipping and customs mishaps. OTOH, based on the universal praise for Axel and the not so universally positive opinions of SS, I tend to favor Axel, if all other considerations were equal. |
Hello Nandric, I have several cartridges lined up to go to Axel, but inertia, as Lewm says, seems to keep them at my home.
I DO seem to be able to buy cartridges and stylus and listen to them, so I was interested in opinions on the Soundsmith. |
Regards, Grbluen2: If the cantilever is simply rotated and not bent then you may be able to correct it yourself. Pull up the AudioKarma turntable forum, find "Search", enter "rotated cantilever" & click on Google site search. This is not an uncommon occurrence.
If inspection of the "V" magnets proves them to be in the correct 45* position relative to the pole pieces but the stylus is not vertical then replacement/repair should be considered.
A user initiated cantilever swap is another option. It is more easily accomplished than might be thought. Research & deliberation are advisable, incantations optional. Our contributor "Fleib" has given good advice regarding the CA modded AT95 (last year) in this thread, perhaps he'll check in?
Peace, |
Dear Acman, The 'strange' thing is that nobody mentioned 'ruby' or 'sapphire' upgrade by Axel. He is known as 'the' repair service for all B&O carts so he should have at least those sapphire cantilevers. To my knowledge the only difference between both kinds is the colour. Raul promissed to inform us about all those 'upgrades' he made by Axel so I assume that he also try those sapphire cantilevers. To make a good choice you need at least some comparison between Axel's and Peter's upgrade.
Regards, |
Dear Don, No cantilever is 'user serviceable'. The so called 'exotic kind' can't bend. I posted my AT 180 to Axel and got stright cantilever back with new suspension. The cost is not worth mentioning: 30 Euro. My 'theory' is that bend cantilevers are caused by wrong or no antiskate. The suspension at the side involved get 'softer' or 'weaker' on this side with the cantilever 'pointing' at respective side. Raul's 'refresh' means probable new suspension.
Regards, |
I was thinking about trying the Soundsmith Grace Fe stylus assembly on my Grace cartridge. Has anyone else heard anything about it good or bad? Any thoughts on the best choice of options? |
Dear Raul, I purchased the Maestro used and I am not certain if I damaged the cartridge, but in any event, the cantilever has become twisted within the cartridge body. It still plays, but requires extreme azimuth settings. I have followed those threads which suggest the cartridge maybe user serviceable, but I'm not sure that I could pull off the repair. Maybe with a little guidance... Don |
Dear Grbluen2: What happened with your Maestro? do you need to fix it or an up-grade through Axel?
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Psst, Glbluen2,
"Blackbrier" |
Dear Grbluen2: Now he is very busy and some times he received so many emails that he could be losted down there. Try it again and you will receive his answer.
regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Greetings all, about two weeks ago I tried to make contact with Axel regarding the repair of one Clearaudio Maestro cartridge. I have received no response. Is there a secret password involved or am I being impatient? Thanks, Don |
Regards, Raul: Lucky you! I'm going through nearly the same situation with an EPC-U25. Same family as the Technics P23 or EPC-205 and with a solid 1/2" mount. One stylus from Nagaoaka, another "generic", not impressed. Have ordered a JICO SAS for the U25. With laminated cores, single point cantilever suspension and relatively low inductance, the cart should perform better than it does now. Jico shipping notification last Fri.
A red generic for the AT-20SS? Want it?
Peace, |
After a long separation, I reunited with the 20ss the other night. It was like seeing an old friend, one who brings along to share a nice aged bourbon. |
and not so bad to diminish in any way the 20SS cartridge.
R. |
Dear Timeltel: I just give me the time to test my AT20SS with an after market stylus and I can't find a poor performance. Not as refined and not so " complete " as with the original stylus but not bad at all. I don't know which kind of after market stylus I own or its vintage time but good.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
My gosh! What a memory. I own this German 'artillery' ( Emitter II Exclusive + Basis Exclusive) for some time but each time that I need to write the names I need to check. However : 'Magnenpans without bass'? I owned the Timpany (?) and remember not only 'the best bass ever' but more in particular that each and every visitor's first question was: 'what are those'? While the second question was for my wife: 'how can you live together with those and him'?
Regards, |
Regards, Raul: It was a PC-330, not the 400. There's one to be found at Top Choice Audio. Someone thinks a lot of it, $200. Flaking paint but the "beryllium" tag is still on it. 0.5 conical & 3mv output.
1973. "The people" would gather, relax (ahem) & actually listen to music. Frisbees in the park. Robed "Moonies" with their paper flowers, bothering "civilians" in the airport. "The Rev. Moon loves you".
So. I had this Sansui integrated, an AU-5(something), ceramic/MM switch on the back. It hissed like a snake without needing to be antagonized first. The first series to have the really cool black faceplate. I gave it to my (then) 17 yr. old brother. He still has it. Occasionally he threatens he'll give it back. A Dual 1219, Shure M75 & some Sansuii 8" 2-ways.
A friend, just back from four years in the service, 1975(?), brought home a Pio. system. SA-9100, CS-99a's & (might have been) a PL-12D table with the PC-330 cart. Solid bass, sweet hfs & mids with a spooky presence. It sank my Sansui stuff.
Off to the Hi Fi emporium. Magnepans & Phase Linear 400s were the hot items. Sam Wherry, the owner, would crank them up, LOUD, & then just stand there, a far-away look in his eyes & sales spiel totally forgotten. I wanted to hear some real bass. EPI towers & Marantz sounded VERY nice together. They did bass. I'd read up on neutrality so double large Advents in the utility cabinet & a Kenwood KA-9800 integrated came back. 9800 HAD to be better than 9100, it's a bigger number. Nada.
It was the cart. Sorry to relate this to you, Raul, but it was the beginning of my reluctance to make any claim to being an audiophile, an enthusiast since.
Not a PC-400, it's a 330. Top Choice, $200.00. Would someone buy it? Please?
Peace, |
Dear Timeltel: What do you know about the Pioneer PC-400 or any one of you?, thank you in advance.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Dgob: +++++ " will enjoy those different perspecitives " +++++
that's all about!.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Hi Raul,
I will keep an eye out for one. Fingers crossed, my experiences and appreciations will increase with that exposure.
The 'PC-1000 MkII' shares some of your noted charasteristics of the PC-400 and I would highly recommend that you give that a listen if opportunity presents. Pioneer (as with the Glanz G series) are very good with dynamics, detail retrieval and - naturally therefore - with bass but the Technics (in a Morch DP-6 red point) still seems to me to be unique in a variety of ways and so (although my MM/MI/MF search has culminated in the Technics and Glanz selections) I will enjoy those different perspecitives: IF I ever audition the PC-400.
Thanks
As always... |
Dear Stanwal: I prefer the alternative I posted to the one you are using that I tryed several times.
Maybe where I worked and work hard in my system is trying to improve the system bass frequency range management, for me is a critical audio system subject and makes a paramount differences when is improved. At least is what I experienced not only in my system but in other ones.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Dgob: I never heard the PC-100CMK2 but one of my favorities is the 100CMK4. Well, differences with the Pioneer PC-400 is a gradation subject and I can't make a review right now but the main difference in between is on the dynamic performance level that shows the PC-400 and especially on that Frogman dynamics characteristic. Here the PC-400 is more " free " about and let flow that music dynamics with out restrictions, as I said it is all on gradation difference or differences. The other important difference is how the PC-400 handle the bass range and it is not only on distinction on fundamentals/harmonics or pitch but the very precise decay time that permit no bold/bloom bass but tight and powerful one, bass transients are extremely good but the MK4 is very good too. We have to experienced to understand this difference gradation on performance level.
My advise is that if you see it somewhere buy it, it is an unknow cartridge very humble an inexpensive.
After heard this really unknowed cartridge I wonder which one are out side that could perform at top quality level and no one is aware of those " hiden " gems.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Stanwal: IMHO in almost all audio subjects alternatives exist trade-offs, which one we choose is up to each one of us: nothing is perfect till today.
As with passive electronics parts as: inductors, caps, resistors, transformers and the like the best is NO inductor/caps/resist/transfi in the audio signal but sometimes that is imposible to achieve so we have to analize alternatives to choose the one we are satisfied with the one makes less or the lower harm/degradation to the audio signal.
Same happen with active crossovers but exist a degradation " gradation " of the audio signal depending how and where we are using that active electronic crossover and of course the crossover design.
It is not the same to use the active internal subwoofer crossover that to use a FM Acoustic external one: way/wider difference!.
Now, through the years I learned about the use of subwoofers in an audio system, I understand the objectives/targets to use subwoofers: the whys we use subwoofers.
Obviously that the main and " natural " reason is to go deeper in the bass audio system management range. This characteristic always is important but exist other reasons that even the importance of it:
- not only lower bass frequency range but better quality of that bass range.
- achieve lower IMD speaker distortions. The mid bass is clean, the midrange is clean, the highs are clean: high resolution every where ( the distortions are almost gone ), and now you can really hear for the first time the MUSIC. Clean does not means analitical but means: accurate with more musical information that gives the real music " feeling ".
Intermodulation Distortions: Almost any three ways speaker ( all two ways/one way ) has it's crossover frecuency ( low driver ) between 120Hz and 450Hz. I can assume that any of ours speakers system goes down flat ( at least ) between 60Hz to 20Hz.
What does that means ?, well that a single driver has to reproduce frecuencies/harmonics from 20Hz/60Hz to 120Hz/450Hz. With that kind of frecuency range here exist a great intermodulation distortions that put it's " color " on the sound reproduction.
You have to imagine that that single woofer/driver has to reproduce, at the same " time ", a 30Hz frecuency along a 350Hz frecuency: here is where exist that IM that gives heavy distortions in what we hear ( there is no perfect driver: moving coil, electrostatic, ribbon, etc.. The speaker designers has to choose the best " trade offs ", but the distortions are there. ): less clarity, less resolution, less precision, less natural balance, less pitch, les, less, less......., and this is what we are really hearing: LESS MUSIC.
If you read any manufacturer specifications on their speakers they never " write " the value of the IM or harmonic distortions, they tell us the frecuency range and how is flat on that range but never " talk " about distortions. I think that you know that when we have a speaker frecuency specifications, say: 28Hz to 22kHz +,- 3db, that is a very nice spec, that speaker low driver don't stop at 28hZ it's goes a few hertz below that frecuency with heavy harmonic distortion that increase the IM distortion of the sound reproduction of that driver and these additional distortions have a severe degradation in the reproduction of the MUSIC.
-liberate the main amplifiers to handle that lower bass permiting a better amplifier quality performance.
- An improvement in the soundstage reproduction in all parameters: deep, front/side location, wide of the stage, etc...
- the main speakers amplifiers works best ( less distortion, more headroom, less chance of clipping, less amplifier stress, etc...) with out to handle the frecuencies range that now are handle by the dedicated subwoofers amplifiers. This is important for an SS amplifier but for the tubes ones is a must.
- Now the low bass frecuencies are handle for a dedicated driver that was build with specifics characteristics for to work in that frecuency range and this low bass driver is matched with an amplifier ( self powered subwoofers ) that was build with specifications that mates excatly what the low bass drivers needs about: frecuency response, output impedance, damping, power, etc..... You can't ask for more!!!
- Not only the IM distortion goes down but the harmonic distortion of the low driver of your main speakers goes down too, Btw, the whole harmonic distortion goes down, because ( in the case of my Velodyne's less than 0.5%: with's yours? ) ) the harmonic distortion of a well self powered designed subwoofer is usually " very low ". This means ( again ) less coloration: MORE MUSIC.
Now, IMHO any passive loadspeakers where its woofer/lows-driver crossover 120hz can achieve all those benefits with the use/system-integration of two self powered subwoofers running in true stereo fashion, this means that the main speakers not hnadle any more the low bass frequency range: this is handle where it belongs to: with the subwoofers.
In my system I don't use an external electronic crossover to split the main speakers frequency range and the subwoofer frequency range both handle it. I use at the amplifiers input a first order slope through a very low value teflon cap along a 275 resistor. In this way I let " untouched " the audio signal handled by the main amplifiers/speakers.
The second output in my phonolinepreamp goes connected to the self electronic active crossover in the subwoofers. I made several changes/modifications in the subwoofers to achieve the lower audio signal degradation/distortions.
Stanwal, you have to try it. IMHO there is no argument against what I post other that to " live " the experience in your own system.
Btw, my choose for crossover frequency was: 76.8hz. ( I think?? ).
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
I use REL subs which operate below the range of the main speakers and augment the bass of the woofer, not replace it. I find that many who use "subwoofers" run them with a crossover point that is too high. I start rolling off the RELs at 30 Hz so their effect is only on the bottom end. You could not use them to affect the sound of the main speakers if you wanted to as they have no facility to pass the signal THROUGH them. I do have electronic crossovers for my HSU and Nelson Reed subs but never use them to attenuate the bass signal to the main speakers. Like the previous poster I can always hear the presence of an electronic crossover and despite their theoretical advantages do not want them in the signal path. |
Raul,
Intriguing and pleased to see that you have found a new best cartridge. How does the PC-400 stack up against the PC-1000 MkII and in what areas do you feel it surpasses this sterling model? Fascinated to hear your opinion here.
As always... |
Dear friends: As I posted here it is ( just confirmed after evaluation. ) an unexpected/unknowed " new " winner vintage MM cartridge the: PIONEER PC-400.
A humble and ugly cartridge body, it looks like another one of the pile with nothing to look twice.
Who say that conical stylus shape is a mediocre design or that can't shine in anyway or dimished a cartridge because that kind of stylus shape?, well the PC-400 comes with a bonded o.5mil conical diamond in a " Vacuum evaporation " beryllium cantilever!!!: whatkind of combination!
2.5mv with a frequency response that goes from 10hz to 40Khz with a high compliance suspension that runs at 1.5grs.. The cartridge is a light weight one at 4.0grs, load impedance: 30k-100k.
An extraordinary " rider " ( the oposite to the poor tracker FR6SE. ) with a natural an accurate tonal balance and with a dynamic explosiveness that is more related to a good LOMC than to an MM design. As afact this " surprising " good Pioneer shares the best you can ask in a LOMC cartridge with what we admire from the best MM/MI designs. Top to bottom near perfect.
How is that through the years no one brought it the Pionner to us, I for one never heard or read nothing on this Pioneer PC-400 and I bought it on ebay only by " curiosity " when I read in the auction " beryllium cantilever " that in theory is reserved to the very top cartridge designs on those old times but " alas " that this humble design has in reality no " sign " of humility when start to sings.
When you hear the Pioneer PC-400 your jaws just dropped and can't stop to enjoy its music sound: pure adrenaline! for our spirit, a heaven's " maná ".
What kind of cartridge generators were designed in those old times!!!, almost nothing today compares against cartridges like this Pioneer PC-400.
OPf course you have to hear it and better yet: to own it!
regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Rnadell: There is no G800 source I know other than ebay/agon.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Dean_man: Yes, those 9.99 for the MF-200 were just " fantastic ". I hope you are enjoying your Astatic one.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
David,
This may not help your dilemma. My F9E purchased new around 1984 has the original rounded stylus assembly and is still mounted on my Phase Linear 8000 TT, which has not spun an LP in almost 25 years (perfect sound forever, you know). Can't say if the angular assembly is aftermarket or a later OEM version.
As far as the 9E vs. the Ruby; the 9E was a huge improvement over the ADC XLM mkII that it replaced. However, each time I heard the Ruby in a showroom or someone else's system, I knew that I had made a mistake by not spending the extra $50.00 for the Ruby. I could have easily afforded it but I cheaped out and then over 20 years of digital ensued.
My old F9E has pretty low hours, so when and if I put it into my cartridge rotation, I will definitely correct the error of my youth and buy the Soundsmith Ruby stylus assembly.
John |
Nandric, The stylus/cantilever makes a very large contribution to the sound of each particular cartridge. Although there are generalizations we can make about cantilever material or stylus profile, the application is by no means universal to all generators. Part of cart design is manipulating parameters to achieve desired voicing. If that voicing is changed by using a different cantilever material, it may or may not be an improvement.
It's unfortunate that your alum/boron experience via Axel was unproductive in illustrating cantilever differences. I think the experience gave you an erroneous notion about implications. Axel combined tip and cantilever to give you similar sound. A maestro uses a boron/micro ridge and increased wood body to give a different sound. That is the only difference between the carts. I suspect that a maestro stylus on a virtuoso would be an improvement, but does it need the additional wood? While I might prefer the detail and exactness, someone else might prefer warmth.
Alas, it's not so simple. Different materials have varying mass and rigidity so they resonate and flex differently. This combines with the voice of the particular generator and results could be unexpected. For instance, a high inductance cart might use cantilever resonance to augment treble. Eliminate that resonance and FR suffers. Regards, |
John, this is a flat-nose M320. The repair was EUR 87 delivered-- an excellent value to get this cartridge back up on its hinds. I'm unsure but it looks like a new armature tab telescope/collar was fitted to the original tip. Next step is to send Axel a Technics EPC-300MC for rebuild.
A dilemma for Grace owners: I'm torn between repairing a Grace F9 with broken cantilever, or going for the Soundsmith Ruby OCL that comes complete with holder. My reason for considering the turn-key SS option is that the plastic holder with the broken stylus may not be a good foundation for a rebuild. Unlike other F9 stylus holders that I've seen photographed, this one is rectangular and projects forward of the stylus tip. The plastic tabs along the sides of the cartridge body are very short and don't hug the cartridge too well, allowing some rotational play in azimuth. Here it is:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300762144739?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
It would be conceivable after retip to secure the holder to the cartridge with glue. Is anyone familiar with this style of holder? It is translucent green and marked with a gold "E" at top front center. Perhaps it's an aftermarket replacement. |
David, Fantastic news from ACUTEX M320 III STR ! I´m happy it found good home and best possible arm. Raul recommended it and I had the feeling that it fits the arm just fine. Glad you´re enjoying. Meanwhile I´ll keep on searching for another... Cheers |
Dear Fleib, I am not sure what you mean with 'that consideration is specific to each cart.' If you mean with 'consideration' cantilever/stylus combo than I can ask you about all those efforts you made with different styli for the same cart. Because Raul posted so many carts to Axel I assume that he also wanted to try different cantilevers/styli combos. If this is the case than he can tell us something about the cantilevers. We are informed only about aluminum/ line contact. For those who intend to try Axel's upgrade for their carts such info must be very interesting. I myself got for my Virtuoso the aluminum and boron kind but would like to know about sapphire and beryllium. For those who are familiar with Ledermann's ruby cantilever the comparison with Axel's sapphire cantilever should also be very interesting I assume(Axel repairs all B&O carts > sapphire).
Regards, |
Dear Dgarretson,
Are you referring to the M320 LPM, aka "longnose" or the earlier model? Would you mind sharing the cost of the suspension refresh?
Thanks
John
|
Hi all, where can the G800 be purchased? thanks Richard |
The M320 III STR with original diamond and Axel's refreshed suspension is a killer. It has slam similar to M420 STR, but is more natural, nuanced, and refined all across FR. There is better front-to-back layering, and no sense of exaggeration as with M420/415. It is a blend of the best of MC and MM/MI characteristics. |