What is the most dramatic way of increasing a speaker's Bass and Low mid?

Moving your speakers closer to the corners will load the low frequencies and increase their volume. Too much and it will muddy vocals and destroy the stereo image. For a 36" tall speaker in a 12' X18' room with 8' ceilings, start with theses numbers to increase the bass: 14" from wall to speaker face, 22" from Woofer center to side wall. The next position, pull the speaker out to 22" and or pull it in to 27" from the side wall, or both. Each will reduce the bass a bit. These numbers aren't 'woo', they are basic room acoustics - physics. Pushing the speakers to the walls and corners increases the room 'loading' of the woofer, the ratios minimize standing wave (eigentone) reinforcement. You can also download a spectrum analyzer from Google Play like 'Spectroid' and run pink noise through your system to get a rough idea of the frequency response for a given mike location. But, by all means, listen. The tools and equations are there to inform your decision, not make it.

I'm still in the flip-phone era, but yes, this is a GREAT way to add measurements to ears.  (Google says there's one for the iPhone, too)

Srsly, this is cheap/free (the PC-based REW is free, dunno about the phone apps) and should be what you start with.

Second REW.  You can pick up a USB phantom mic for about $50 - $80, Dayton Audio comes to mind.  I don’t know if REW integrates with an app, now, but Dayton does make app capable measurement mics.  

My experience with REW is what led me down a long path to maximize my system.  Inclusive of what’s already been shared, getting your speakers positioned to where they sound the best to you is critical, prior to measuring.  Chasing placement to minimize spikes/curves/room anamolies will make you bonkers.  I’ve done it and it’s futile.  Once you’ve set them, then run REW.  What it will show you is what needs to be tamed.  Mids/lows, again, boosting them may not be what’s needed, possibly there’s too much low end and taming it will allow the midrange to punch thru.  

Once I had my measurements, I critically listened to all my favorites for a week or so.  Then sent my measurements off to an acoustic treatment company to build me a set-up, specific to my room and the measurements generated.  I used GLK Acoustics, but there are plenty out there to choose from.  It was night and day once I had them installed.  I had read numerous posts on here before, regarding room treatment and just didn’t really pay it much attention.  Now, it’s one the lowest cost applications I’ve used in my system.  I should note, I didn’t read thru the entire thread, so it may have been covered, that your room (aka significant other) is not open to panels being hung; which is completely understandable.

Post treatment I listened for another month, it did sound exponentially better with the treatment, but I still felt I could squeeze more out of it.  Enter DEQX.  It does EQ, but more from the perspective of minimizing frequencies that shouldn’t be there, due to the speaker interactions with the room.  And that’s the big difference, addressing the room and then addressing the characteristics of the speakers, in relationship to the room.  

I’ve used the McIntosh MEN-220, which is based on the Lyngdorf/Room Perfect algorithms/software.  It did make a difference, huge difference.  But, it had some funky glitches with REL subs and the amp I was using at the time.  Additionally, it’s very pedestrian; meaning there’s not too much user configuration involved.  If that’s what you’re after, it’s wise to go with a unit that is user friendly.  DEQX is not, to be frank.  It takes some heavy lifting to get it configured; which I was successful in getting it to about 95%, but ended up hiring a DEQXpert to set-it up.  Took about an hour and cost $400.  The DEQX combines the room and speaker measurement and makes corrections based off of that, which gets very complicated and confusing if you haven’t been thru it.  

Net-net, a room correction unit will bring focus and clarity to your music.  I’m not a big believer in EQ’ing, but am a staunch supporter of utilizing it in conjunction with phase adjustments to improve existing rooms and speakers.  

Most dramatic way is replace speaker with one that has more frequincy extention while Garry Moore The Loner plays on a distant radio.

Thanks! BTW loving the sound now after upgrading Amps, Preamp, and cables!

The simplest way for bass boost is use your room boundaries.  Using the example of a flat response bookshelf on stand in the middle of a room away from all boundaries, move that stand mounted speaker fully against one wall- this adds +3dB in low end boost.  Then step 2 is move fully into the corner  (2 boundaries) = +6dB bass boost.  Then step 3 is of course 3 boundaries, or the corner on the floor or the ceiling= +9dB in bass boost.  Speaker will sound awful but that is the impact of a corner on a speaker.  

If you do not fully push the speaker against a boundaries, there is still increasing bass response as you get closer and closer.  A good flat speaker will sound very tubby in a corner "area" compared to the middle of the room far away from boundaries. 

Quite often boundaries are the biggest reason why a speaker does not sound good in space. Being aware of the impact boundaries cause on speakers can be helpful.  

(And we haven't even mentioned reflections from boundaries!)    

Brad
Lone Mountain Audio (consumer)
TransAudio Group Inc (pro)
Pro and Consumer Audio Importers

Have you considered doing tests using room eq wizard first

BTW, if doing testing be wary of relying on the mic built into your phone, as they are focused on picking up midrange and won't pick up low frequency with any accuracy. 

Any simple test tone cd and a decent mic will have you on your way to measure the impact of some of the changes suggested(e.g. moving towards the boundary). Cheers,
Spencer

You can see what the problems are with a computer, USB Mic, and Room EQ Wizard. I think your suspicions may be correct and you have room nodes. You’ll need a few subs and can use Multi Sub Optimizer to crank out some new crossovers that will correct the suckout. A Mini DSP can be your active crossover to add the filters. Much less effective is to move the subs around the room and try that way but filters add delay, gain, up to 12 biquads. I have added SVS isolation footers on all the subs so that their vibrations don’t excite the room. They work really well. You’ll be really surprised what a difference it will make.