VPI Scoutmaster Tonearm Upgrade

At an affordable price a secondhand Jelco arm would be a a good choice. I have owned one in the past and liked it!

Thanks!  I’ll take a look

Soren out of japan, better made then the Jeco's. 

IIRC Scountmasters don't use "armboards" like (most) Aries models. VPI arms are surface-mount. Many non-VPI arms route the cable down through the plinth and need a much larger hole drilled there, which could get messy on a Scoutmaster (MDF / vinyl and steel sandwich).

So, first decide if you have appetite for that or need to stick to a surface-mount arm. VPI makes a couple of gimbaled arms, but their upscale 3D-printed Fatboy's pricing is...ambitious. I'd stick with metal anyways. 

In general, Jelco would be a fine choice. Sad they're now gone. Ortofon had a few upscale arm models made for them by Jelco in the past decade. These show up used occasionally, and I think they'd make a VERY nice choice, barring issues getting it onto your plinth.

Without a doubt, anti-skating needs to be confidently correct

for your vinyl wear, your stylus wear, your imaging/listening. Easy arm height adjustment is also important if you use different cartridges like some of us do.

I have had excellent personal experience with

Acos Lustre GST-801, (smoothest and easiest arm height, unique magnetics)

Micro-Seiki 505S and SL (S for silver, L for the long version)(easy arm height)

Technics EPA-B500 with alternate arm wands (easy arm height)

NewArt Vinyl Blackbird 12.5" 5 pin din (not easy arm height, set screws, but very precise using built-in micronometer), (fixed cartridge, not removable headshell)

SME 3009/II (not easy arm height, allen head set screws)

I would either move to a TT with 2 arms (especially if into Jazz with a ton of Mono LPs), 1 long, 1 short, or 1 arm with removable headshell to allow you to enjoy a small collection of specialists, as well as play your friend’s cartridges there.

The way I actually see it happen and refine my adjustment is by using the blank side of this protractor LP.

Hudson HiFi Alignment/Anti-Skate LP $16.

Anti-Skate to Zero

Set Tracking Pressure

Spin Platter by hand, see it skate inwards naturally.

Adjust slowly, watch it slowly correct, then too much it skates out. Find a setting where it floats, if anything slightly in, not slightly out.

I routinely re-check tracking pressure and re-set anti-skate every few weeks.

..................................

The fact that re-tippers confirm MOST stylus tips are un-evenly worn PROVES that the dials, even sophisticated ones cannot be relied upon, see anti-skate happen/correct with the blank side method.

The fact that re-tippers confirm MOST stylus tips are un-evenly worn PROVES that the dials, even sophisticated ones cannot be relied upon, see anti-skate happen/correct with the blank side method.

IIRC the important observation from this (SoundSmith?) has been that most of the asymmetric wear has occured from too much anti-skate being applied (the R channel of the groove, positioned outward and away from spinde). The corollary being that running with no anti-skate might not be too problematic - you can easily apply much more bias force in the "corrective" direction, than the 0-bias’ inward skating force.

As a ballpark, the actual anti-skating force should probably be in the range of one-tenth to one-fifth of VTF force. For example,Van den Hul will typically recommend 0.2g - 0.3g of anti-skate force on a cartridge with 1.35 - 1.5g recommended VTF. So it’s (unfortunately) easy to accidentally apply way too much. Good luck actually measuring this force accurately - though I think WallyTools has something for it!

And it should go without saying - linear trackers don’t need any anti-skating force, and longer tonerarms need less of it by virture of their smaller offset angles.