VPI-HW19 first model

VPI is still around but more than half their staff has Covid.  If you have a Facebook account, you can contact Matt through their FB page.

Hmmm, I was just in touch with them a few days ago via email and got a response

the same day.

Does it have a spring suspension or sorbothane suspension?

A common problem with the early HW19 motors which were not rigidly mounted like everyone else was doing at the time and VPI changed to.

VPI should be able to provide you with a replacement 600 rpm motor capacitor that should greatly reduce motor vibration. I’ve successfully used their 0.47pfd 600VDC snubber capacitor although it is optimal for the 300 rpm Hurst motors.

Rigidly mounting the motor on a proper absorptive metal piece to further sink noise as well as heat would be much preferred. The optional VPI SAMA - stand alone motor accessory was (is?) specifically designed for this purpose.

I’ve rebuilt a number of those Hurst motors which is fairly easy to do if you have access to VPI’s locking (set-screw) output shaft collars 👍

     I've seen cases of the HW-19's motor pulley actually contacting it's plastic motor cover plate (ie: washers not installed on the three posts first, per instructions / chassis suspension springs relaxed / pulley installed too high on shaft).

     Sometimes: that clearance is so tight, the weight of a vinyl will be enough to close it.

@dill This TT has sorbothane suspension pads

@boothroyd , Previous owner received this upgraded capacitor with new motor 2 years ago. Regardless when motor is on you can turn plinth into rapid vibrator. The noise is MECHANICAL and it's typical to most of the stepped synchronous motors that aren't any good for turntables on the first place.

I had a very similar problem with mine and I eventually found the solution. Replace the sorbothane pucks with Herbies Tall Extra Firm Tenderfeet and that should do it and make sure the plinth is totally level. The problem was not electrical.

Tenderfeet

@boothroyd 

Having the fact that I actually have the original motor from late 80's early 90's, brings me to an idea to try to recondition it.

It spins when voltage applied at proper terminals through the OG starting cap.

I have an access to unlock the c-clip holding the shaft on the top portion of motor. I can also see some lubrication drops through the bottom of the motor when bottom cap is off.

With the output shaft clip removed along with the bottom friction-fit cover removed, just push the output shaft into the motor housing and remove from the bottom of the motor.

Identical to the top washer/bushing, you’ll find a matching washer/bushing at the base.

A good solvent cleaning and removal of grease will allow you to check its conditions including shaft wear. If OK, reload with a good synthetic grease such as Royal Purple® Ultra-Performance Grease and reassemble 👍

Setting the in/out output shaft play is very easy during reassembly if you have the VPI output shaft collar w/set-screw. Just a perceptible amount of play is perfect.

Experience rebuilding these has clearly shown that the motors NOT coupled to an absorbent metal are more likely to be worn beyond repair to due over temperature wear. Mechanically coupling these Hurst motors is imperative to optimal performance.

While the mechanical aspects of the motor are critical, don’t underestimate the electrical performance!

Jan @ VPI did a fair amount of practical research into the vibrational performance of various motor capacitors. The newer high voltage caps are readily available and highly recommended if you’re NOT using an external controller such as their SDS which can “cog” the motor when line voltages are lowered. (Line level voltages are essential for properly conveying Pace, Rhythm and Timing on high mass systems IMO.)

I just tested it with old cap hard wired to see if it’s spinning before actually starting disassembly.

I’ll try to see if this old motor with the new cap after some surgical clean-up and lube will run better than newer one.

Will put myself onto test on how good or lousy am I by trying to make from crap a cake. :-)

Best of luck! You’ve got nothing to loose 👍

To emphasize the importance of mechanical grounding, press an edge of the motor frame against something of mass such as the top of your work table with it turning. Feel what happens when the vibration can drain off 😳

@boothroyd , I finally got a grip on paste dielectric synthetic grease.

From what I see I need to really pack this anchor all the way to the top literally squeezing it over the shaft right into basket magnet. It might be a factor of consuming more power from the wall due to the thick viscosity, but it really should reduce vibrations. I really don't care if motor is loud, but all I care is about typical vibrations to any synchronous AC motor that shouldn't be used as a turntable motor at all. It's more good to power tools like grinder than turntables.

Here we go:

My work has been completed with MAJOR success of reconditioning an old original motor. The transferred vibrations had been completely eliminated to the plinth through motor. As I figured, I packed the magnet well topped off before sliding it back into the spindle hole. I had to apply some pressure to the bottom of the anchor so to fit the c-lip back in. I used typical dielectric synthetic grease that really showed magic of not being able to go through the spindle hole with sufficient viscosity to make every part of spinning magnet bathing in grease under pressure. There I followed principle of drive shaft or wheel bearings. Some degree of vibrations was notable when applying extra pressure to plinth, but those cannot be heard at all neither at the beginning of record nor at the end of dead wax.

I liked this grease so I’ve used it on my cue lever also with success.

Overall, GREAT TT.

@czarivey Great to hear it lived to see another life!

I think you’re going to realize excellent performance from that old Hurst motor now that care has been given with proper cleaning & lubrication.

Happy listening 🎶

@boothroyd , I tried to see if newer motor will be more quiet and to my surprise, after same treatment still was awfully mechanically buzzing all the way down to the armboard and from there there's no escape except sound pickup. Bummer. 

Wonder if I can be offered replacement for my back-up motor from VPI.