So since the thickness of the Mat2 is no problem for me on either of two turntables where I use Mat2s, why would you say the new product is "better" than the Mat2, when even the manufacturer claims it is only "identical" in performance? @lewm I said "probably" because it’s much thinner without any loss in quality. And for those who’re looking for BA mats this is the only one that is NEW for $250, old BA mats are all used (secondhand). Chakster.
Thanks very much for the info on the "new" Boston Mat.
Wanted to try one but near impossible to find an original one.
Will look into it. @uberwalts You’re welcome, i think it’s better to buy latest version, because each one who owned BA-1 claimed BA2 was better, now they have "mk3" with warranty from the Sakura Systems |
Uber, With diligence and patience, I think you could find a used Mat1 or Mat2. But maybe it's cheaper and faster to just buy this new copy. Not strong on patience I am afraid, hence the reasoning behind so many equipment changes over the years.... lol. |
Dear @best-groove @lewm : " for me if possible on the spindle you c....""
that tiny hole at the inner position in the SS300 is not to fix it to the spindle. SAEC makes a research about and they found out that the LP/records tend to slide through a metal mat surface so its advice is that with a small nail use that hole to fix the LP to the mat and for this you have to make a tiny hole on each LP at exactly the metal mat hole position then and before play you insert the tiny nail in the LP through the metal mat hole. In this way the mat and LP spins at unison/evenly.
lewm, about the Cu MS mats I already did it several times in different threads but as you people only say: " I like it ". Yes I now that they like those kind of distortions but that per sé does not means is rigth because is the other way around: wrong.
In audio and especially in the analog alternative what we like it does not really matters but what you say do not care: principles or facts or .......
Maybe it’s because I’m a way more quality audiophile/music lover than you and several other gentlemans and that’s all and the origen of disagreements .
R.
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Chakster, You yourself quoted the following: "By incorporating different carbon graphite material, we successfully
achieved the identical performance of Mat 2 with less thickness (4 mm)
and the reduced price."
So since the thickness of the Mat2 is no problem for me on either of two turntables where I use Mat2s, why would you say the new product is "better" than the Mat2, when even the manufacturer claims it is only "identical" in performance?
If it matters, probably Raul would object just as strenuously to the M-S mats as he does to the SAEC mat, on the grounds that all 3 are metallic. I do see his point, in principle; you don't want to reflect energy back into the LP. However, I use my ears more than my principles, and the SAEC does seem to match well with the TT101, perhaps because it adds mass to the platter, which may be more important than energy transfer or lack thereof in that particular case. Further, the SAEC does seem to be designed to delimit the spread of energy across its entire surface, for whatever that is worth.
Uber, With diligence and patience, I think you could find a used Mat1 or Mat2. But maybe it's cheaper and faster to just buy this new copy.
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Chakster.
Thanks very much for the info on the "new" Boston Mat.
Wanted to try one but near impossible to find an original one.
Will look into it.
👍👍 |
I hardly think the SS300 is the second best mat of all time, if the SOTA mat you reference were to be the named best of all time. But you’ve made your own opinion clear. Like I said about my own current preference, the BA Mat2 is generally a smidgeon ahead of the SS300, but I happen to like the SS300 on the TT101, for some reason. Yet there are some who dislike the BA Mats, too. If energy dissipation is your fetish, then the BA Mats are certainly designed with that in mind. @lewm interesting, i have 3rd version of BA mat, anyone who can’t find BA1 or BA2 can buy new The Mat from Sakura Systems, its thinner than BA2, probably the best of them. Just 250 bucks within USA. "After some hiatus period, Boston Audio has teamed up with SAKURA SYSTEMS and now proudly introduces "The Mat", the culmination of our experiences through developping Mat 1 & 2. By incorporating different carbon graphite material, we successfully achieved the identical performance of Mat 2 with less thickness (4 mm) and the reduced price." diameter/293mm thickness/4mm weight/454grms P.S. Micro Seiki CU-180 and CU-500 are the mats to dies for if turntable can handle high mass. Today i got my Micro ST-20 gunmetal clamp and it's so nice, much lighter/better than ST-10 Now i have gunmetal under and over the record. |
@lewm : this is easy. Metal resonates at listen frequency range and the feedback is takes by the cantilever stylus tip and the transducer takes those metal resonances/distortions as groove modulations.
Again, metal mat is the worst place to use in a TT mat that one of its main functions is to dampen.
That's all, I don't care if you like it or not. I like it in my SP10 in the past till I learned. So what, I like means almost nothing.
R. |
The Boston Mat 2 is good with a Kenwood outer disk stabilizer it is great
you get the full effect of the mat
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I hardly think the SS300 is the second best mat of all time, if the SOTA mat you reference were to be the named best of all time. But you've made your own opinion clear. Like I said about my own current preference, the BA Mat2 is generally a smidgeon ahead of the SS300, but I happen to like the SS300 on the TT101, for some reason. Yet there are some who dislike the BA Mats, too. If energy dissipation is your fetish, then the BA Mats are certainly designed with that in mind.
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I should mention that I remain a fan of the Boston Audio Mat2, probably ahead of the ss300 on most turntables. Go on and dump on that one, if you like.
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Raul, I respect your opinion but you are given to extreme views. I also factor that in. What is the composition of the SOTA mat, because I don’t recall that they ever marketed a separate mat? Their earlier turntables had a glued on felt mat which seemed good in theory, coupled with their CLD platter. But I thought it dulled the sound, perhaps partly due to the vacuum hold down system. This was on my Star Sapphire series III. |
for me if possible on the spindle you can also use a clamp above the SS 300 instead of the screw
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Dear @lewm : """
who then became a non-fan of it. """
After several first hand experiences I become no-fan of any metalmat no matters what.Metal is the main enemy for the LP reproduction in a TT platter. It's the worstplace to have any kind of metal in direct touch with the LP surface. Is way resonant and very fast for the transmision of the feedback resonances to the LP surfaces and then to the cartridge stylus tip/cantilever.
As any ignorant rookie in those all times I was emotionated with every thing with the SAEC name and I bougth not one but 3 SAEC mats and as I said till I learned and today I have noneof them.
Till today the best mat for any TT is the original SOTA mat that is out of production.
You can try to find out this mat where you can attest by your self and confirm my statement and I'm sure that you will put on sale that " garbage " SAEC mat that as all SAEC products are really very well manufactured but this is not its problem.
Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R. |
Stuff that involves electronics or moving parts that are known to wear out is an entirely different matter from an inert platter mat. (By the way, my Mk3 was NOS when I bought it. I have the original carton, etc.) But you are entitled to think and do as you wish. I didn't mean to rain on your parade. And of course, I am only comparing flawless used mats to NOS mats. Obviously, a damaged platter mat is worth maybe nothing but certainly much less than a nice sample of a used mat or an NOS mat. If you look at my sample, hold it in your hand, you would not know whether I took it out of its original box brand new or whether it came to me "pre-owned", as used car dealers in the US are likely to say. I also own two samples of Boston Audio Mat2. I bought one brand new and the other I bought used off Audiogon or eBay, used but perfect. At this point, after many hours of use, you could not tell one from the other. And they'll be that way indefinitely, unless I mishandle one or the other.
I didn't know about that set screw, but now that I do know, I will continue to ignore it. What useful purpose would it serve to fasten the mat to the spindle? (Incidentally, if it's missing, and if one wanted to use it, set screws in all imaginable sizes are available either in a good local hardware store here where I live, or on the internet from such companies as McMaster-Carr.). Yes, it's cool to have the box, etc. That's why I concede I would pay maybe 10% extra for an NOS sample vs a perfect condition used sample. OK, maybe 20%, if a perfect used one was not available at the time I was searching for this product. I lack patience.
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@lewm Did you notice a tiny treated hole near the spindle hole on SAEC mat? Do you know how to use it ? The manufacturer was smart enough to offer this option, you can tighten up the mat to the spindle, but you need additional accessories that you can get with a NOS mat (along with the manual) and a nice box. I realized it only when i bought NOS (unused) mat, a complete set. About NOS SAEC mat: When i bought NOS sample in the box (with manual) i notices red tool and a small metal piece that allow to tighten up the mat to the spindle with a tiny screw (this is why there is a very small treated hole in the mat near the spindle hole). When you’re buying a used sample these parts always missed and i believe a few people seen it. If you like scratched or damaged mats you can always buy them with 50% discount compared to MINT- or NOS. This is RARE mat, it was made 40 years ago. If you think the price difference between a used Technics SP-10 mkIII and a NOS (boxed) Technics SP10 mkIII will be just 10% then you’re living in the different reality. Some vintage stuff is impossible to find in NOS condition. Actually vintage hi-fi gear is highly collectible. And there is a collector’s value of the NOS gear. I wish i could buy everything NOS just adding 10% to the price of the used items, but in reality the price goes up to 50-100% for a NOS records, cartridges, mats, turntables, tubes, whatever vintage |
By the way, absent visible damage or shape distortion, what difference does it make whether a metal platter mat is “used” or NOS? My response would be “none” or “zero”. At best, I might pay a 10% premium for NOS but for no good reason. I do agree that $300 is a fair price for a nice used sample.
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Are you sure it’s a great idea to couple the SAEC to the spindle with that set screw? Seems to me it creates a path for motor vibration to propagate into the platter where it would be efficiently spread. Not that the TT101 motor has a noticeable problem with mechanical noise.
Anyway, I bought my SS300 from Raul who then became a non-fan of it. I like it on my TT101, but I try not to be dogmatic about platter mats.
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@uberwaltz It’s a minimum price on ebay for used without box, buy it if it’s clean, the price increased in the last 3 years, this is what i noticed myself. And NOS units normally twice as much. |
Would one say it is truly worth $300 though?
That's about average price being asked by Japan resellers right now?
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SAEC's SS-300 mat is aluminum, anodised black and then coated with a very thin ( and very strong ) teflon coating
The success of the mat is in its cut-outs in the physical design as well as the coating which stops ringing and is gentle on records as well as being anti-static and balanced
Long out-of-production, I've tried dozens of mats and the SAEC is a keeper I have the same feelings, it's one of the best mat in my opinion. Here is the one on my Luxman PD-444, it's perfect for almost any turntable, i've been using it on Technics SP-10mkII and SP-20 too, it is also fine for SL1210mkII+ series, Victor TT-101 or Denon DP-80. When i bought NOS sample in the box (with manual) i notices red tool and a small metal piece that allow to tighten up the mat to the spindle with a tiny screw (this is why there is a very small treated hole in the mat near the spindle hole). When you're buying a used sample these parts always missed and i believe a few people seen it. |
SAEC's SS-300 mat is aluminum, anodised black and then coated with a very thin ( and very strong ) teflon coating
The success of the mat is in its cut-outs in the physical design as well as the coating which stops ringing and is gentle on records as well as being anti-static and balanced
Long out-of-production, I've tried dozens of mats and the SAEC is a keeper
RTatts |
Wasn't it enough just to adjust the one higher or lower? By adjusting one direction then the other lewm was able to locate the "sweet spot" not to high or to low. |
I first created a hole in the bottom of the chassis can, directly under the bearing housing in the dead center of the chassis can, using a hole punch designed for cutting thin metal.
I didn't understand the whole explanation but it seems a delicate job; didn't you fear to do some damage compromising the result?
And the oil did not spill?
Under the engine I know this screw cemented by the factory.
https://i.postimg.cc/T2Vm0Zj8/A.jpg
Wasn't it enough just to adjust the one higher or lower?
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Haven't had a response from Chakster about the noise, but here are some more details about how I eliminated the faint rubbing sound I had that was due to the rotor rubbing on either the inner surface of the top cover (rotor too high) or on the stator itself (rotor too low). I first created a hole in the bottom of the chassis can, directly under the bearing housing in the dead center of the chassis can, using a hole punch designed for cutting thin metal. Then, while the motor was operating, I reached under the chassis with a thin blade slot-head screw driver and engaged that slotted, threaded cap situated at the bottom of the bearing well. Adjusting the position of that cap in it threaded mount moves the entire spindle assembly and everything attached to it, which includes the rotor, up or down. I gently and very slowly turned the screw driver, trying both directions because I did not know which way it needed to go, until I eliminated the periodic rubbing sound. Voila'.
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Beautiful workmanship, Totem. Congratulations on your artistic taste and craftsmanship.
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Yes it was an interesting project, all it took was time since
I had the tools and equipment.
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@totem395
Hey, this is yours ?
I've seen it online before, also very good for a new plinth.
But my idea is to refresh the original plinth first with new veneer or some decent paint |
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- VICTOR CL-P2D PLINTH for 2 tonearms was quiet expensive in 1981, nearly 40 000 Yen in Japan. Must be OK ?
Double arm cabinet developed for TT series turntables.
The structure which laminated the beech wood and the high-density particle board which the vibration damping rate is very large is adopted alternately. The thickness of each material is determined by rigorous theoretical analysis, and a total of seven-layer sandwich structure is used to achieve no resonance and no vibration.
The surface is decorated with natural wood paste of rosewood.
The pickup board adopts a special laminated structure of beech wood, and is removable because it is fixed to the cabinet with bolts.
In addition, pickup boards were sold separately, and each arm could be replaced.
but i remember this thread too |
@lewm
I also happened to hear the noise of the engine of the TT-101 grumbling when it is running.
But turning the plate by hand without power supply, everything was silent ... I think it is only a problem of calibration or a bad power supply of the engine due to some electronic component out of tolerance.
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In my research, I never came across a communication from Victor wherein they suggest that the bearing "never" would need service. This is in contrast to the Denon DP80, where Denon do warn customers to leave the bearing alone. (But I daresay they probably were not envisioning a 40+ year lifespan when that advisory was issued.) Anyway, when I had my TT101 motor apart, it was very easy to access the bearing well, and I did clean out the well and replace the lubricant with a single grade synthetic motor oil, the same brand and weight that are recommended on the L07D website for the Kenwood L07D. I kept the original bearing ball and thrust pad, as they exhibited very little sign of wear.
Chakster, Does the occasional noise that you hear seem to emanate from inside the motor? Is it periodic in nature, which is to ask does it come and go with each revolution of the platter and at a faster rate when you are in 45 rpm mode? If so, you might be hearing the rotor rubbing on either the underside of the top cover of the motor or the stator below the rotor. (I am relying on my memory of the anatomy of the motor, which may or may not be accurate, but it's the rotor doing the rubbing, I think.) There is a fine adjustment of that spacing that is achieved by use of very thin copper shims, at the factory. Under the bearing well, which you can access without taking the motor apart, you will find a slotted head cap. You might try very gently turning that threaded cap up or down, and see whether it affects the noise. That cap can be used to fine tune the spacing between the rotor and the stationary parts that reside above and below it. Slow and gentle is the word of the day.
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Do you trust the Victor engineers....?
I do 🤗
I've never lubricated mine.
I recently overhauled the engine of the TT-71 opened to check the pivot and the oil, I was surprised that after 40 years the pivot was perfect and without any signs while the oil was still as new; I wanted to replace the oil only for scruple. The Technics SP10 MK II, on the other hand, always have a bad oil color that must necessarily be replaced and the pivots always have some stripes, I can't understand why. |
In my opinion the armboard on the factory Plinth is a weak link. It’s made of MDF; I never heard an MDF part that didn’t seem to add coloration. I replaced mine with solid aluminum, custom made. Furthermore I reinforced the arm board from below by bolting it to another large piece of aluminum under the plinth. I can’t say I did an A-B comparison, but the result seems very neutral.
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Yeah...nice finish Chak 😃
It may be hard to obtain on the existing veneer....?
Maybe a car body and paint-shop?
I decided to try, maybe both methods (new veneer one one plinth and paint on another). What i don't like on original Victor plinth is that veneer surface on arm boards and on the plinth always mismatch. I think it's possible to prepare the original for new veneer (some nice exotic wood) or prepare it for proper automotive paint over the original plinth. |
Yeah...nice finish Chak 😃
It may be hard to obtain on the existing veneer....?
Maybe a car body and paint-shop?
Another reason I was not comfortable using the CU-180 Copper mat was I feared it may compromise the workings of the Bi-Directional speed control. |
You can use the CU-180 but I don't know if there's enough adjustment available for such a weight...? If that doesn't bother you...go for it. I was more concerned with the weight on the bearing 🥴 No pulsation coming from the electronics on either the TT-101 or TT-81. Is it true that no lubrication needed for 40 y.o. unit ? Do you trust the Victor engineers....? I do 🤗 I've never lubricated mine. Just last week there was a soft drone coming from the platter once every revolution so I saw that the outer platter was too close to the fixed surround. I opened it up, turned it upside down to access the control screw in the base and turned it clockwise. If you turn it too much the motor won't turn at all. If you back it off from there a bit....the motor will turn clockwise, stop, turn anticlockwise, stop, turn clockwise etc etc. Back it off a bit from there....... Goldilocks.....😃👍 No more murmur... |
Great, so i can experiment first with different mats and clamps to match my current settings. My 1st sample move backward a bit after stop. but my 2nd sample does not move backward or forward after stop, so i assume this is ideal. Anyway it does not bother me much, both are ok. The platter is lightweight compared to others, is it allowed to use heavy mats like Micro Seiki CU-180 (1.8kg) or CU-500 (2.7kg) ? Or much lighter mass are better ? Do you hear any high frequency pulsation coming from the electronics near the disk when the rotation is "on" ? I have it on one sample only, but i barely hear it, anyway it’s there. Is it true that no lubrication needed for 40 y.o. unit ? Thinking about the plinth i’ve been looking at this amazing finishing, i really like it (all my custom racks are same color), why not just paint original Victor plinth like that to refresh it ? It is automotive? I’m gonna use mine with At-616 pneumatic footers under the original Victor plinth. But i hope i can paint the plinth (if i will find who can offer such beautiful finishing), it is probably better than new veneer ? |
Great news Chak...🎉
There is a regulation described in the manual for altering the STOP function to match your platter mat +LP.
I had my Tech do it for my lightweight Victor Pigskin mat which is far lighter than the standard Victor rubber mat with which the turntable normally arrives.
And having the platter 'check' with a slight backwards movement when the STOP button is pressed...is considered normal.
You're a lucky man.....but there are no guarantees for the future.
You'd be wise to blow-out all the old solder joints and do them all again as I did, if you wish to sleep peacefully. |
Platter continuing to rotate after you press the stop button is associated with calibration. A well calibrated turntable should stop pretty much dead when you press the stop button. But my TT101, which was calibrated by JP and works wonderfully, also moves an inch or two more after I press the stop button with an LP on the platter and a heavier than normal turntable mat (SAEC SS300) . I decided not to worry about this, because of the extra mass. If JP is anywhere around, perhaps he will comment. The brake is calibrated with the mass of the mat and standard LP on the platter. If the mass of the platter is higher than that it'll move a bit further after pressing stop. |
Hi all, great combination. I took my TT-101 back in hand two months ago, after the technician failed a couple of years ago. First of all, I eliminated all the wire wrap connections by switching to a practical plug-in plug-in system in order to have the pcb in hand and to be able to work in complete tranquility without fear of tearing some wires. All cables have been coded with the name engraved on the PCB. Then I went to the full recap, replacement of all trimmers (I’m waiting for some from Mouser) re past all the welds (some very bad) put the horrible high voltage connection system with a new pcb into electrical safety. In a few weeks I will apply the missing pieces and try to turn on the turntable. before https://i.postimg.cc/7PFwMWmc/1.jpgafter https://i.postimg.cc/8C52VRZM/DSCN6163.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/KYwHSdkh/DSCN6167.jpghttps://i.postimg.cc/T1Fwr2hH/P1010327.jpg |
@chakster I have that huge service manual and to my surprise TT-101 motor does not require lubrication !
If anyone believes that "I have a bridge" and all that. |
Platter continuing to rotate after you press the stop button is associated with calibration. A well calibrated turntable should stop pretty much dead when you press the stop button. But my TT101, which was calibrated by JP and works wonderfully, also moves an inch or two more after I press the stop button with an LP on the platter and a heavier than normal turntable mat (SAEC SS300) . I decided not to worry about this, because of the extra mass. If JP is anywhere around, perhaps he will comment.
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News about my two Victor TT-101 that i bought in 2017.
1) I have reported earlier in this thread that first of them purchased from the original owner as "working" appeared to be defective on the first test on arrival. We discussed the issue here few years ago. I gave up on expensive service abroad with expensive shipping, and could not find anyone locally to take a risk on repair. So i put this unit aside in my living room and it was there from the summer 2017 til the summer 2019. When tried it again in 2019 it was WORKING! Magic? I did nothing, but i think a constant temperature in my room and good energy somehow cured my TT-101. I tried it several times on 33/45 with pitch up and down and it's just fine, it was constantly on for 48hrs in each session many times. And i can't detect a problem i saw on arrival 3 years ago. Maybe it was just a stress after transportation, maybe it was stored for some time by original owner in his basement, who knows. But stayin' unplugged in my room for 2 years years something happened and i think it's because of the right temperature in the room.
This unit is quiet, easily working for 3 days non stop and right now still spinning.
I think it's a good sign, so i ordered a plinth for this turntable.
2) I also mentioned another sample that i bought later, i thought i'm bought my second sample for parts as a donor. The unit i bought was described as defective from the start. I also mentioned this problem before in this thread. The situation with this 2nd sample was different that with my 1st sample. When i got the unit it was working on arrival, but i had to touch the platter by hand on the start. Then rotation was stable for a long time, i think i already tested the unit for a few nights nonstop in 2017. Anyway i put it aside next to my 1st unit and it was in my room for more than 2 years.
Last week a friend asked me to sell him one of my Victor TT-101, i replied that i will check both and i did. I forgot which one is 1st and which one is 2nd, because visually they are identical and looks MINT-
Now i figured out which one is 1st and which one is 2nd after investigation of my old invoices etc.
I've noticed common problem for some vintage direct drive i've bought last year (Denon DP-80 and Technics SP-20). Nothing serious and very easy to fix, but on the first test looks like disaster. The motor under the platter on Denon DP80 and Technics SP20 is fixed by several screws, sometimes they are not screwed properly or simly a bit loose (because the turntables are 40 y.o.). When those screws are loose the motor and spindle can be off-centered and as a result the platter is off-centered too. When the platter is slightly off-centered the edge of the platter can grind the edge of the turntable body. As i said it is very easy to fix, all you need is to loose the screws, turn the platter on, check the position, the remove it and fix the screws on the motor.
This is why my 2nd Victor could not start without a touch of my hand. When i removed the platter to fix the screws i realised it was a bit off-centered, so i fixed it and problem gone. Turntable start spinning when i just press the start button. The problem is gone!
BOTH SAMPLE WORKING!
BOTH TT-101 ARE FINE NOW, FINGERS CROSSED.
The minor difference between my 1st and 2nd units is:
-when my ear is near turntable i can barely hear pulsation coming from the electronics inside the TT-101, but only when 33 or 45 rotation is "on". When my TT-101 is in standby mode i can rotate the platter manually and there is no sound, so this is not mechanical sound, it is a very very low level pulsation from the electronics. Not sure what it is?
Another sample is dead quiet, nothing like that. But i think stop button must be calibrated, it works fine, but after the platter stopped there is a backward move, very little. For example i've seen it before on Technics SL1200mk2 and it was fully adjustable, it is a function of "stop" (slow stop of the platter, or immediate stop with a tiny final move backwards). Not a dig deal i guess.
I have that huge service manual and to my surprise TT-101 motor does not require lubrication !
I know that TT-101 can be calibrated according to the service manual.
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@lewm the actual calibration takes me about an hour all-in these days. Repairs, done right, are where the cost is. |
Lewm. Yes the 701 has the EDS-1000 brushless coreless motor. The hall-effect electronic drive motor
operates independently of AC line frequency and voltage fluctuations, so
the 701 platter speed never fluctuates. An entirely different kind of
motor, designed expressly for the 701, and a very innovative approach to
the problem of resonance. Instead of the familiar, high speed AC motor,
the 701 has an all electronic, low speed motor, with
feedback-controlled speed precision. Because this motor rotates at the
record speed, 33 1/3 or 45rpm, the need for speed reduction systems such
as friction idler or rim belt is eliminated. Instead, the platter is
rotated directly by the motor, and the record spindle is the top of the
motor shaft. The 701 motor is so quiet and free from vibration that it
does not require any isolation mounting, but is mounted directly to the
chassis. ORIGINAL DUAL 701 FACTORY SPECIFICATIONS: Motor: Electronically Servo Driven Wow and flutter: < 0.03% Rumble: Unweighted: > 50dB; Weighted: > 70d https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=28237.msg380130#msg380130http://unepassionaudiophile.fr/platine-base-dual-eds-1000/https://www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/701.shtmlhttps://www.vintageshifi.com/repertoire-pdf/Dual.php |
Pablo, I don't know where you "heard" that calibration of a QL-10 would necessarily cost $1000. I believe that some time ago on this thread, JP Jones remarked that he could not hope to repair a malfunctioning unit for less than $1000. That's a far cry from saying that it takes a kilobuck just to do calibration. If the unit is functioning properly, a knowledgeable person, e.g., JP, could probably do the calibration for much less cost. When the TT-101 is "broken", it is a real can of worms, which made JP's off the cuff estimate of $1000 seem fairly reasonable. JP can comment if I am way off base, or not. |
It looks like it has a built in phono amp as the little button next to the RCA outs says mm/mc.
Does this mean it cannot be used through a phono amp as there does not appear to be a bypass to this , just choice of mm or mc. I think it's only a gain-stage for the MC to boost the low output — there's no RIAA eq. So it can go into your phono preamp. |
I definitely made things worst for my self.
and probably added more to a repair bill for moving those pots.
I hear that calibration cost $1000 for this QL-10? and I’m guessing that doesn’t include redoing the caps??
i wanted to fix it since it was my uncles.
worst come to worst, can I get a ql7 platter and still use my plinth and arm?
Thanks everyone for the responses. |
