Funny thing is I hated the vandersteen connector block for years. When I asked vandersteen about then there is a good reason he uses them and a lot of those big good blocks you can crank down hurt the sound. One of those things that dont make sense up frount, more contact is not necessarily better. |
I went ahead and biwired the ones I had simply because it was just as easy as figuring out reliable jumpers with those flush banana jacks. That is one thing I did not like about them, the hassle of single cable hookups. My current speakers have big gold terminals and came with big fat gold jumper plates so you have a choice. No fooling around or even having to buy aftermarket botique jumpers. |
Oh, that's embarassing, how did that post get there. Please ignore it, I can't delete it. |
I remember not being ultimately convinced by the 803D in the showroom. The tweeter called too much attention to itself. I wonder what tube amplification would have done for it.
But with the 802D and up you're in a whole different ballpark, I think. |
I remember back in the old days a lamp cord will do juts fine |
I tried it both ways I prefer biwire but with that being said it is all about budget. Jumping will get you 90% there. One good cable jumpered could sound better than 2 cheaper cables biwired. |
"Unfortunately, Audioquest Slate doesn't seem to be available anymore. Is there an equivalent?"
I don't know if Rocket88 is better or worse, but it's a fine cable well suited to single biwiring, it uses DBS to keep the cable broken in, and it's available with the correct small spades at the speaker end.
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I just changed the speaker cables in both systems to Mapleshade Helix and Double Helix cables and I have not heard better speaker cables. Despite their 30 day return policy, they are keepers. Clarity, phase accuracy, dynamics and extension are all improved over the Tara, Harmonic Tech, Tranparent cables I have used in the past. |
I've heard the all the Vandersteens in many different systems, and though I'm not sure of the argument(s) in favor of it, I always felt they sounded best with bi-wired identical separate runs of the same speaker cables. I'd suggest you contact Alpha-Core for a free trial of 2 sets of Goertz MI or AG 3 speaker cables with zobels. |
Unfortunately, Audioquest Slate doesn't seem to be available anymore. Is there an equivalent? Also Audio Advisor doesn't see to offer barrier spades as an option anymore. Bummer; it was a really good deal. |
FWIW, Daverz's Slate and the Comet I mentioned are both members of AQ's Flat Rock series. In that configuration, the hi-frequency and the lo-frequency bundles of conductors--2 pairs each--are separated maybe a half-inch, in a sort-of-zipcord configuration. Rocket88 is about the same but is less expensive.
Blues..., if you continue to single-wire, understand that the jumpers you use should be of high quality copper, etc.
And as far as taking your system to the next level, as I wrote before, I'd use AQ Comet OR order the 'SoniCraft OCC Special'. There IS a difference in sound quality among speakercables, and either of these will get you closer to the highest degree of transparency.
BTW if you're interested in trying the 4-foot Rocket88-plus-OCC combo cables, I'll sell them for the replacement cost of the OCC conductors, which would be $73, plus shipping. (That means the Rocket88 raw cable and the silver-over-copper spades are free.) E-mail me at jeffreybehr(at)cox(dot)net if you're interested.
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I'm using Audioquest Slate in a bi-wire configuration, with small spades on the speaker ends (terminated by Audio Advisor). The Audioquest has the runs in the same jacket, but the quad configuration should ensure that there is little magnetic interaction between the runs. Sounds great to me. |
My 5As are single biwired*. I use Sonic Craft's 4-conductors-per-frequency-band formula, and the system sounds VERY good. SC's Jeffrey Glowacki recommends and sells Neotec solid-conductor, OCC-copper and OCC-silver (in Teflon) wire, with double strands of 18g. copper (= 15g. per positive or neutral) on the lower frequencies and one 18g. copper and one 23g. silver (= c. 17-1/2g.) on the high frequencies. I wound my first sets of these types of cables for my highly improved Audio Physic Avanti IIIs but had him wind the pair for the 5As, as arthritis in my hands makes if very difficult for me to get a tight-enough wind. I terminated these with AQ direct-silver-over-copper spades and then wound some 24g. conductors within and also around the 2 bundles to create a dielectric-bias system (copied from AQ). This cable is indeed more transparent than the combination of AQ Rocket88-plus-added-Neotec I started the 5As with.
I believe there is some advantage of keeping the upper-frequency and lower-frequency magnetic fields separated, and I also believe that conductor size and material can be wisely chosen for high- v. low-frequency signals.
BUT...if you system sounds good to you, use what you have.
BTW, if I were to start over with factory-finished speakercable, I'd choose AQ's Comet, one of their double-bundle, 'Flat Rock'-series cables that uses 3 copper conductors and 1 silver conductor per frequency bundle.
http://www.audioquest.com/
* Personally, I think having 2 pairs of spades under the amp's bindingposts would sound worse than having one pair feeding both sets of conductors, but I'm no GEA so probably couldn't hear any differences. :-)
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If you like it go with it!!!!! |
I have Vandersteen 5s and use what is commonly referred to as Double Bi-Wire (DBW). To be honest, I've never considered anything else, because as Stringreen says, it's what Vandersteen recommends. I've spoken with Richard V (once) and in that conversation got an impression of a no-nonsense guy who gives good advice. Specifically, I asked a question that implied having to spend more dough, and essentially was told, "save your money." Given that perspective, I don't think he'd recommend DBW if he didn't feel there was a distinct advantage. . . but I reiterate I haven't tested the alternative! Been perfectly happy with a pair of Audioquest Pikes Peaks. |
Vandersteen himself recommends bi-wiring, and not bi-amping. For a discussion of the worth and results of bi-wiring dial up the Vandersteen website. The best results are for seperate plus and minus cables which translate to 4 cables for each speaker. The cables that are 2 on the amp end and then split to 4 on the speaker end are not nearly so good. |
Vandys aren't current-hungry speakers so less-likely would benefit from biwireing. Biamping is more likely the binding posts are for. |
I had Goertz MI-2 bi-wire and switched to VH Audio CHeLA "single runs" and have been very happy. I don't see anything missing and have not really thought about getting another set. |
