I am a big fan of L-Pads.
I learned some of this here recently as I just removed/replaced my existing L-Pads in my Vintage 3 way system made in 1958. ’Brillance’ (tweeter volume) and ’Presence’ (midrange volume).
Vintage speakers were DESIGNED with the L-Pads in mid-attenuation position, then boost or cut a specific driver’s volume.
They let you adjust for either ’live’ rooms, or ’dead’ rooms; and adjust for your preferences; and your individual hearing characteristics, which change as you age. Upgrade your tweeters, then tame their volume.
They let you control the VOLUME (not frequency characteristics) of drivers, individually, relative to the other driver(s), AFTER the preamp, amp, speaker’s crossover.
They are NOT tone controls which alter the preamp’s ’frequency characteristics’ prior to the amp, and prior to the speaker’s crossover.
L-Pads are different than potentiometers: the L-Pad maintain the resistance shown to driver and resistance shown to the crossover as it cuts or boosts volume. Thus you want 16 ohm L-Pad for 16 ohm drivers. 8 for 8 ....
History: Vintage speakers were Mono, often in corners of rooms. Then add a second speaker in the same room when stereo came along. Manufacturers test/you audition speakers all you want, they will not sound the same in any unknown room!
IMO, modern speakers ought to include quality L-Pads, with precise stepped attenuation settings (ability to precisely match left to right in symmetrical rooms), and offer the potential of varied adjustments in irregular listening spaces, various ceiling heights, ...
Irregular spaces are another reason a primary balance control to vary side to side volume and then L-Pads for individual drivers output volume.
I learned some of this here recently as I just removed/replaced my existing L-Pads in my Vintage 3 way system made in 1958. ’Brillance’ (tweeter volume) and ’Presence’ (midrange volume).
Vintage speakers were DESIGNED with the L-Pads in mid-attenuation position, then boost or cut a specific driver’s volume.
They let you adjust for either ’live’ rooms, or ’dead’ rooms; and adjust for your preferences; and your individual hearing characteristics, which change as you age. Upgrade your tweeters, then tame their volume.
They let you control the VOLUME (not frequency characteristics) of drivers, individually, relative to the other driver(s), AFTER the preamp, amp, speaker’s crossover.
They are NOT tone controls which alter the preamp’s ’frequency characteristics’ prior to the amp, and prior to the speaker’s crossover.
L-Pads are different than potentiometers: the L-Pad maintain the resistance shown to driver and resistance shown to the crossover as it cuts or boosts volume. Thus you want 16 ohm L-Pad for 16 ohm drivers. 8 for 8 ....
History: Vintage speakers were Mono, often in corners of rooms. Then add a second speaker in the same room when stereo came along. Manufacturers test/you audition speakers all you want, they will not sound the same in any unknown room!
IMO, modern speakers ought to include quality L-Pads, with precise stepped attenuation settings (ability to precisely match left to right in symmetrical rooms), and offer the potential of varied adjustments in irregular listening spaces, various ceiling heights, ...
Irregular spaces are another reason a primary balance control to vary side to side volume and then L-Pads for individual drivers output volume.