Hello all, Recently procured a Feickert Blackbird w/ the Jelco 12 inch tonearm. The table is really good, and its a keeper. The Jelco is also very good, but not as good as my Fidelity Research FR66s. So the Jelco will eventually hit Ebay, and the question remains do I keep the FR66s or sell that and buy something modern in the 5-6 K range. My only point of reference is my old JMW-10 on my Aries MK1, so I don't know how the FR66s would compare to a modern arm. So I'd like to rely on the collective knowledge and experience of this group for a recommendation.
Keep the FR66s, or go modern in the 5-6K range, say a Moerch DP8 or maybe an SME.
Any and all thoughts and opinions are of course much appreciated.
Dear Raul, This is not like you.....? I'm a little worried.... You haven't responded at all...let alone with a list of all the 'resonances' and 'distortions' you're able to pinpoint on the FR-64S undamped tonearm which you've been denigrating for a decade...? Can you not find any??? But you have the finest 'self-taught' TRAINING (you've been telling us) that allows you to hear within 10 seconds EVERYTHING that is wrong with a system..? C'mon....you can do it..🤗
But if you CAN'T do it Mr. Bigmouth.....you will never again be able to denigrate the Fidelity Research FR-64S and FR-66S Tonearms because I will Link this Thread to any Posts from you in the future. You surely don't want to live your pseudo-guru life like that....do you?
Now, I owned almost all FR tonearm models including the 66
That's not true..... Raul NEVER owned an FR-66S nor heard one in his system 👺
The 66 is a non-damped tonearm and builded from metal that as a metal is extremely resonant and instead to damps the cartridge/LP/TT self vibrations/resonances/distortions only magnify it.
Raul has been making claims like this for a decade without any supporting evidence, believing that if he says it enough times.....people will believe him 🧐 Here are two YouTube videos showing the FR-64S playing the same piece as the Dynavector DV-507II......a magnetically damped tonearm.
It should be obvious in this direct comparison....to definitively pinpoint the exact occasions (via the timeline) where these claimed "vibrations/resonances" are occurring..... Time to face the EVIDENCE Mr. Kraken.......😎
I have been an owner of a Pete Riggle Woody arm for about 2 years. It is the most convenient and easy to use arm I'm ever had and it sounds as good as anything I've heard at Axpona during the last 8 years. The arm has OTF adjusting of most everything except VTF. You can easily hear the changes as you adjust. Nothing needs a tool to get done--all easily turned small knobs. It looks very nice, too. I finally have my extreme Lenco project done and it now runs to perfection--dead quiet and the speed is rock solid with the strobe light and disc. The Lenco has more upgrades and mods than anything short of the Artisan Fidelity all out efforts. The addition of AF's copper platter on top of the Lenco platter and an on/off switch together with getting the motor spring orientation correct so the motor sits perpendicular to the chassis has made the Lenco a powerhouse of great sound. I use a Benz Micro Ruby 3 myrtlewood body w/ Soundsmith level 3 rebuild. I had a Whest 3.0 RDT SE phono pre, but am switching to a custom built and adjusted for the Benz Micro Ruby 3 phono pre--Audio Horizons TP 8.13. It is dynamic, lucid, with a hint of beauty to the sound. Joseph Chow is adding 6db of gain to the unit to bring it up to 67db.
The sound of these combined is way above anything I've ever had in my system--used to have a Maplenoll Ariadne for about 8 years. Finding it's equal in sound was a full time job and I was losing until now. The combo I'm now using is much more dynamic, with greater drive, pace, clarity, and no noticeable detrimental artifacts. I was running the Lenco with a Trans-Fi Terminator that was a step up from it's predecessor, the Origin Live Silver II arm. I'm back to enjoying the sound of my analog setup like when I had the 'Noll--except no air supply issues and even better, more involving sound.
Reed 3P tonearms are amazing and fully adjustable on the fly (even azimuth) and works well on Feickert Blackbird. I use Reed 3P "12 as a reference, but i do love vintage tonearms as well, for MC cartridges the standalone SONY PUA-7, Lustre GST-801 are very good and will put a Jelco in a shame.
oops, i just realized i'm too late as the original post if from the last year.
FINALLY have some time to play and a lot has happened in the past couple of months.
First, made an armboard to mount the 66s on the Amazon. Procured a Yammamoto ebony headshell to add to the mix. Started mixing and matching headshells and cartridges on the FR66s. Initial findings after a lot of playing had the Grado Statement on the Yammamoto headshell and the Shure V15lll ( on the Supex headshell ) w/original stylus very close, with the edge going to the Grado. Then I remembered ( getting old is a bitch ), that I had the JICO SAS stylus for the Shure, and I put it on. No contest anymore. The Shure with this stylus is simply making music the likes of which I've never heard before on anything in my system. The biggest improvement is in the upper registers. A mammoth detail increase with absolutely no stridency or congestion at all. SMOOTH and extended with detail.
I'm impressed and immensely happy with this cart. Thanks Henry. I NEVER would have looked this way without your recommendation.
That said, I am making a tonearm change. Both the Moerch DP8 and the FR66s will be listed here soon. Something about the Riggle Woody calls me. I've made the deposit to Pete and I've decided on the Woody SPU. I've got some good headshells and want to be able to swap in a mono cartridge when the mood strikes me. I've got a fair share of good mono pressings and I want to do them justice. I'm thinking one of the Ortofon SPU mono cartridges would be a good way to go. But I'll come back later after I've got the arm mounted and set-up.
Hello Henry, It'll take me a while to report. I still need to spend some time with the AT to get a good baseline. After I've got a good fix on the AT, I'll switch to the Shure and take a listen with the stock stylus and report back.
Hahaha.....I don't think you messed up Crazy Bill 😎 Whilst you may have paid slightly over the odds for the V15/III....it looks like the one you bought is in 'mint' condition which will allow you to compare the Shure original stylus to the SAS 👐 Looking forward to your reports.... Regards Henry
Hi Crazy Bill, FWIW....my two cents on your specific questions...... I haven't heard the AT150MLX but I have the AT-150ANV (which incidentally beat the Atlas and 6 other cartridges in a Fremer readers' shoot-out) 😎 I've heard only hesitation from those who do own the 150MLX and in the absence of enthusiasm....there must be doubt? Even my new 150ANV, whilst good.....does not have the 'magic' or emotion of the really good vintage MMs I love. Many make the mistake of thinking that a move to a high-cost LOMC cartridge will change their listening experiences.... This is rarely the case and I have met no audiophile who can tell the difference between a MM and a MC under a controlled 'blind' test. Most of my favourite cartridges are MM (all vintage) but there are some LOMCs (mostly vintage) which I also highly value. I have a Denon 103R (with selected equal-channel output) and whilst it is great value for its modest price.....it is easily bested by the modified Shure V15/III. I have both Fidelity Research MM cartridges and LOMC. The FR-6SE is better than the FR-5 or 5E IMO (although Jonathan Carr likes the 5E). I have an original FR-7f which did not impress me greatly with its new conical stylus. When Axel replaced it with a line-contact stylus however....it transformed it and is now one of my favourite cartridges 😘 If you are hell-bent on a MC cartridge.....why not buy an SPU Silver Meister directly from Ortofon ? With your FR-66S tonearm......this is a combination that is sure to put a smile on your face 😍 Regards
Hello Halcro, Absolutely nothing, but first a couple of questions if I may.
as noted above, I have the AT150MLX on the DP8. I love this combo. While I know it's not optimally set up ( my Mint is on the way ), I could live right here and be happy. It does so many things well. The few things that need improvement I think will be addressed when it's aligned properly.
I used the AT extensively on my FR66 when I had it mounted on the Feickert, and loved it as well. I used an old Supex ( I think ) headshell that was light and mated well. I never heard anything amiss from that combo.
So my question is this.
Since I don't have any biases against using a MM in either the FR or the Moerch, do you think the set-up you suggest would up the ante over the AT. I know I'm asking something very subjective, but I know you have a lot of experience with them.
I started taking a look at the various FR cartridges, but I've got a lot of studying to do. I'll keep at it.
One last question. A few years back I nuded a Denon DL103r, mounted it on an aluminum plate and had Soundsmith put their best ruby cantilever/stylus on it. Sounded pretty good, but apparently late night listening sessions and more than one martini make strange bedfellows. It never had a chance to break in before I snapped the cantilever, so I'm sure better was to come.
Again, I know I'm asking something very suggestive, but do you think here is any merit to upgrading the Denon ? I have a 103r here and the Midas body, and could send it to Soundsmith for upgrading.
Or do you think I should seriously pursue the MM cartridge set-up you recommend over the AT, and forget about upgrading the Denon and go after the FR7 ?
Thanks Halcro, Crazy Bill
P.S. Actually, I would welcome any comments from anyone who has experience with the above.
Before you spend 'silly' money unnecessary Crazy Bill....can you maybe try something cheap and easy....? I have had dozens of high-compliance MM cartridges sound amazing in both FR64s and FR66S tonearms so please park that misunderstood audio 'myth' in the corner where it belongs and start enjoying the possibilities 🙈 High cost in audio is rarely a guarantee of 'greatness' but particularly with cartridges....I have constantly been disappointed with the 'über'cost MCs over the last 20 years and I have owned many of them. I find the sound of a current $12,000 multi-awarded MC cartridge to be simply unacceptable. The world does not "open up" at this price point.....rather, the world opens up when you discover that most of the great cartridge knowledge and design occurred in the 'golden' age of analogue....the 70s and 80s. This is true, not only for MM design but also, as I've discovered......with LOMCs as well. The vintage SPUs and FR-7 series and Sony X-55 and MIT 1 leave every modern MC I've heard, gasping.... For approx. $200 you can buy a used Shure V15/III from HiFiDo and purchase a Neo SAS from Jico for another $200. A carbon-fibre Yamamoto HS-4S for $140 more will give you an under $600 cartridge/headshell combination for your FR-66s that will leave a ZYX UNIverse (and I have three) sounding insipid. What do you have to lose?.....😜
I've always felt the various Denon's I've had here, and the Koetsu Rosewood, would not be my final resting place. While they are good, with both of them I've always felt something was missing. It's entirely possible the problem has been my setup and I need to work on this. I may end up satisfied, but I don't think so.
That said, I have a Grado Statement here. It does need a retip. I bought it in 2000, and its got a few hours on it. Its a high compliance cartridge, so obviously the FR or the blue wand on the Moerch need not apply. I'm waiting for Grado to come up with the new Statement and I may upgrade. ( Or maybe a Soundsmith retip ).Problem is, on the Moerch, I would probably need the lightest wand to match it, and that's only available in the 9 inch version, so I would have to accommodate that ( new wand and new mounting board for the Amazon ). I really like what 12 inch arms bring to the table so I probably won't go this route. But it still sticks in the back of my mind as I've got it here. We'll see.
If I had half a brain ( and that's stretching it on a good day !! ), I would stick with the Moerch DP8. Sell the Blackbird, the FR66s, the modified Jelco, the Grado, and everything else I won't need and get a very high end cartridge. With a little luck I can probably raise 10K. I'm in the process of building a very high end SET amp, and I still need about 2.5K to finish that. So I'm hopeful I'll have around 7.5 K for a new cartridge.
At that price, I feel, the world opens up. The Amazon importer, Sorasound, is very high on ZYX cartridges. I should probably take a serious look at what ZYX will mate well with the Moerch at around that price.
More to come.
Thanks, as always.
Cheers, Crazy Bill P.S. As setup is such an important consideration, I need to address that properly. Now I am using my MF Geodisc. I know that it is not the end game, which is why I ordered the Mint for the Moerch. Again, if I had half a brain, I would get the Smart Tractor and be done with it.
If after the Mint is in house and I do get the Moerch set up properly with it, and I still feel something is missing, I may opt for the SmartTractor to try the UNI-DIN alignment. We'll see where it leads.
Anyone, please feel free to offer your two cents on what I'm thinking. as I've posted previously, I'm a neophyte compared to most of you and I covet your thoughts and experience.
If I were you Crazy Bill....I'd be investing my funds in better cartridges. Much greater 'bang for buck' in that department IMHO and your arms are more than adequate to reap the benefits.
Hello all, I guess it's time to resurrect this thread and move it in a new direction. My buddy struck again, and the Blackbird has been replaced by an Amazon Grand Referenz. I've got the Moerch ( 12 inch ) DP8 on it.
My phonostage is presently a Decware ZP3. The only high output cartridge I've got is an Audio Technica AT150MLX, and that is mounted on the Moerch. Set-up via a MF Geodisc. Got a Mint on the way, so set-up will be better.
While I will build a board to mount the FR66s on the Amazon to compare to the Moerch, the Moerch is so sublime ( and it's not optimal yet ), the FR66s has an uphill battle. But I will listen with an open mind. The bass response of the Moerch is superior to anything I've ever heard, and will be tough to walk away from. But I want this to be as good as possible within the following confines.
I'm seriously looking at a couple of other arms instead of the Moerch or FR. 1). One of the Reed arms ( 12 inch ). 2). A Durand arm ( either the Talea2 or the Kairos ).
Has anybody ever had a chance to compare, or listen to, any of these arms.
The Moerch and FR66s are really very good. But if the Durand or Reed arms will elevate the musical experience, I would like to know your thoughts.
I'm not getting any younger, and I want to finalize my path to vinyl nirvana.
Seems to me that more people enjoy the confrontations and debates, which then turn into mean spirited attitudes with absolutely no practical application to those seeking opinions. After all, we all have ears that most likely hear differently, and come from different backgrounds of cultural sophistication and exposure to what we have allowed the void between our ears to be filled.
No one has all the answers -- not even the so-called experts -- especially those who arrogantly place that crown upon their own head and demand everyone recognize their title. People also develop an obvious loyalty to the products they buy, because otherwise, they have to admit they bought poorly . . . and that then becomes for some, a matter of pride; therefore, when someone INJURES their choices in audio gear -- they are also injuring the character and integrity of the owner.
Obviously people are duped by skilled and cleaver advertising that is made to convince the public to buy their product over another. Tonearms are about as numerous as cars these days. So one likes the style, the mechanics, the road handling of such and such brand over another, but the problem as in tonearms, is the pride of ownership in saying without controversy: “I have the very best!” BUT, for how long? The consumer food chain claims this one “tastes” the best today, only to be degraded to a piece of junk the next, and anyone who disagrees is also downgraded to moron should they try to defend it. Unless one is earning big bucks, I would venture to say that the rest of us simply cannot keep up with the Jones . . . and why should we? If you like what you like, and someone else does not -- so what! Both of you don’t have to listen to the other person’s choices . . . and apart from the macho and testosterone attitude being exhibited . . . I don’t see where much else is being accomplished -- do you?
Even among those who afford the “very best” tonearms as they come out today, they still can’t agree, and when you get the so-called “experts and interpreters” who supposedly have the superior golden ears and the public’s attention -- THEY DON’T AGREE on every point either, as they still have their own favorites based upon their own reasons, which professionally they then must dogmatically defend or lose their jobs as reviewers (not to mention their big fat paycheck). Accept that, and you will be that much further ahead of the game. Use people’s opinions as a guide for what they are worth -- most definitely fallible (I didn't say worthless), because that is what mankind in general is all about . . . imperfection; however, whether we like to admit it or not, we supposedly also learn by our mistakes until the next one occurs. Personally, I still haven’t met any of my contemporaries who have achieved any status or level of perfection . . . but I have met many who have the attitude and arrogance to think so and make it a point to tell you so.
Please, enjoy the hobby and get over it -- the fruitless arguments and insults -- not the debates, mind you . . . they're entertaining and quite informative. The best tonearm/cartridge -- is the one you bought, listen to, and thoroughly enjoy.
Dear lewm: Yes, I learnen about the IMD critical factor on speakers when I added my subs and that's why I gave my advise to you with those great Sound Labs. Before that I was unaware exactly on the speakers IMD problems. Subs always help but qwe can't avoid 100% of the speakers IMD, so mantain it at minimum must be our each one target.
In the other side and contrary to my last audio years " preach " that: it does not matters if we like what we are listening if we are listening high distortions then we are wrong and must change about.
I can't remember exactly why I just forgot that because as I said I spreaded everywhere that if we like what we are listening we have not care about tonearm/cartridge resonance frequecy. Big mistake/error that fortunatelly I already fixed. I know for sure that some of us still live " in the mistake " and are happy as I was.
People with FR or SAEC tonearms can't be satisfied with what they are listening. These tonearms has 30+ effective mass even with a lightweight headshell and if we mount on it a MM high compliance cartridge that normally has 6 grs. of weight and at least 35 cu the resonance frequency will be around 4hz and maybe lower. Has no sense to do it but I did it for years.
I posted several times from years now and every where that the most critical and vital frequency range for a truly excellent audio system quality performance is the bass range and mostly the low frequencies in that range. Any audio system quality performance level depends on the system quality of its bass management. Well this is an overall subject that needs other thread.
Dover, Did not see your last post until now. Rest assured I was joking about using an ADC XLM on an FR64S. That would be an extreme worst case scenario, indeed. I don't own an XLM anyway. I just got my TT101 up and running for the first time, on my basement system. With the FR64S and an Acutex 320LPMSTRIII. It's what I had lying around, in a Dynavector headshell. Just at the moment of truth, my wife entered the scene, wanting to use the exercise machine in our basement. When she gets done, I will give it another go. I thought I might have heard some bass rumblings, per Raul's warning, but she had the TV too loud by that time for me to be certain.
Thanks, Raul. Indeed, I thought you were one of the guys who advocated not paying attention to tonearm effective mass. However, even back in those days, were you not running those active subwoofers. More than once back then you emphatically advised me that I should do the same with my Sound Labs. Perhaps you upgraded your subwoofers which enabled you to hear problems that were not evident earlier. Would you care to list a few tonearms that you consider to be "well damped"?
Dear lewm: I have a direct culprit because years ago I spread everywhere that we can use any kind of tonearm effective mass with light-weight/high compliance cartridges. That the resonance frequency values between the effective mass tonearm and cartridge compliance were not critical.
That kind of statements were a big MISTAKE/ERROR that I had it by some kind of self " ignorance ".
I posted several times in the long MM thread and other threads about. As a fact way before FR came ( in this specific subject ) to this forum I posted that using my heavy mass SAEC tonearms and other similar EM ( including FR ones. ) tonearms the cartridges I mounted on them performs very good and through these kind of experiences I spread my mistake.
Suddenly I experienced what means and how sounds the IMD when I added to my audio system my active subwoofers and left out/off from my main speakers the frequency range: 80hz and down ( any one can read about here: page 1 in my longest post " Dear friends ": https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/do-you-think-you-need-a-subwoofer ).
Now always exist the bass frequency intermodulation distortion and you can read about here:
So, right now I really care that in my tonearm/cartridge combinations I can stay inside the " ideal " resonance frequency range: 8hz-12hz, but even here we have those bass/subsonic modulations.
If we are out of that resonance frequency range the distortion levels goes higher and this is what I was hearing over several years. Today I still have distortions but at low levels.
So we have to take in count that kind of BID before decide which tonearm or headshell weight we are using it.
That BID is an additional kind of distortion that we can’t avoid 100%.
Through the years some tonearm designers/manufacturers were/are trying to have better ways/mechanisms to design a better DAMPED tonearms. I don’t know if they are aware of that additional kind of " problem " or are not.
That BID is other form of generated distortions that we have to avoid and one way to do it is not buy or use NON DAMPED or NOT WELL DAMPED tonearms: ANY.
That we can like those kind ( and other ) of distortions is not the subject and only can tell us that we are wrong in what we like.
Lewm, you can use almost any well damped tonearm with any cartridge if the combination is inside that " ideal " resonance frequency.
One problem with the tonearm specs about effective mass is that the manufacturers just give the EM value with out any sign of where the tonearm counterweight should be positioned for that EM can be meeted.
Btw, independt of all that acomplish with that resonance frequency value and when we are outside we are not helping the cartridge ride on the LP grooves and we can exite subsonics bass frequencies that make that the cartridge " jumps " at micro levels in a higher level that's normal way of tracking and in extreme cases even we can see how the tonearm/cartridge jumps over the LP. I had only one time this extreme experience and I can't remember with what cartridge/tonearm or LP track.
Lewm, please feel free to post whatever you desire. As to your other question. I use an AT150MLX on the FR66s from time to time. The headshell is light, being I believe a NOS Supex from the 80's. Combination works just fine.
Lewm - When I’ve run lighter MM’s on the FR64 I used 12-13g headshells - Denon PCL300 & Audiocraft AS12 in conjunction with the lighter W170 counterweight. The last 2 MM’s I ran were the Glanz MFG61 and Victor X1 - these are medium compliance and track around 1.5-1.7g. Personally I think you are pushing it with such a high compliance as the ADC.
Wrm, If you don't mind I'd like to post a question to some of the other FR tonearm users. Over on Raul's now quiet thread about MM cartridges (I think that's where I saw these posts), there were several who said that they used the FR64S and even the FR66S with relatively high compliance MM cartridges, and they claimed great success. I am finally about to audition my FR64S, several years after I bought it, and as it happens, I may like to use it with a MM type. To those who have done it, did you use an FR headshell or a very lightweight headshell? If neither, what headshell? For that matter, what MM cartridges worked well? I'm not about to stick an ADC XLM on that heavy pipe. Thanks.
Hello all, Still here and immensely appreciating everyone's contributions. Please keep them coming. And I do mean everyone. I have learned a lot. On another note, my buddy struck again. Regardless of how good the FR66s is, he wanted a more modern arm in the mix. So a Moerch chrome DP8 12 inch arrived yesterday. It will be a while before it is mounted, as I'm awaiting a Mint protractor, and a full set of Wally tool;s to set it up. But eventually I will have to compare them. It is entirely possible that both stay and play. As it unfolds I will, of course, report back, though it will take a while.
Cheers, Crazy Bill
BTW Flieb, nice to see the olive branch. I have learned A LOT from you. Please keep contributing.
I found an email, quite old, in an address used for other matters and one I almost never check. I was wrong and should have taken your touching greeting at face value.
Dear chakster: EPA 100 or MK2?, that's a hard call because both are almost the same design in all but the build material.
For good reasons boron was choosed and the favorite material for cartridge cantilevers and from this perpective the MK2 coukld be the better, however I can't remember remarkable differences in its quality performance.
Perhaps what we have to take in count are its own customer facilities, the MK2 VTA/SRA on the fly is ( IMHO ) the best mechanism ever made like a dream to use it, the output connectors are RCA type and I prefer it over the DIN Pin 5 because today we have very good RCA connectors and other factors is the difference in the tonearm internal wiring. Of course that always exist the felling of be a proudly owner of a MK2 but any one with the EPA 100 can be prodly also.
Lew, I had no idea you drank tea out of Waterford china with your pinky in the air.
Aceman, I assume you're familiar with the fallacy of quoting out of context, in order to let me preach. Smart move, but I'm not a preacher. For those unfamiliar, read the rest of my post and see how much I've done and the importance I give this matter.
Interesting post Kirkus. I used to have a Miles record on Columbia that came within about 5mm of the label. I say used to, because I lost it in a storage place flood in '95 which I refer to as the Great Flood - 1400 records approx. Shit happens. I have/had a few more which went beyond the lead out groove, but nothing like that one.
Like I said, I'll be moving on, but I might be reading. Titanium or Boron?
@rauliruegas as could you please explain me what is the real advantage of boron EPA-100 MK2 over classic titanium EPA 100 based on your experience with both ?
What are you a champion for the mongoloids? I don't expect Raul to be anything other than what he is, not anymore. My intent is to get him booted from this forum for unethical behavior. I think he should pack up his stories of scientists and electron microscopes and sell them elsewhere.
For a number of years I wouldn't post on this forum because of Kraken. When I asked Dlaloum why he came here when a horrible kraken is afoot, he said because you were talking about the carts interesting to him. I relented and joined the legion of the kowtow, the kraken kowtow club, if you will.
I see by your comical alignment solution you desire his retention here. I have done nothing as of yet regarding this matter, other than give some perspective. It's early and the cat is settling in and I need some coffee, a much more important matter. I have misgivings.
Fleib, Since this IS a hobby, and since Raul has never changed his attitude and shouldn't be expected to, at this point, why get angry? Raul es Raul. I would like to hear Raul's response. Seems to me, if you increase P2S while maintaining the longitudinal relationship between the cantilever and headshell, so that the two remain "in line", then the null points would approach each other on the LP surface, until at some point they merge into one null point, with underhang. If you decrease P2S, then the null points separate until one or both no longer lies on the LP playing surface. But the headshell offset angle is confounding factor.
Raul, Suppose I did want to use Baerwald (for one example) with my DV505. You've implied here that it can be done by changing the P2S distance from the factory-recommended value. Does this maneuver end up with the cartridge/cantilever in alignment with the long axis of the headshell? If so, please tell me how to do it. Thanks.
""" I won't be back to this thread. I'm too busy now ... """
since then you posted 21 times starting in that same page six and those 21 posts were only because you were " busy ". Go figure!!
Now, I understand your very high level of frustration through this thread that between other things hurt/damage your health, emotions are a human been " killer ".
I can't understand why you follow trying that I stop to living in the " error " in this audio subject, just leave it that way because I just want to live in the " error " and this can't hurt you.
I think that something that can help you is that I can accept not only that I live in the " error " but I can accept and accept that is your " bible " the right answer and that you are " the One ". Fine, there is no problem with me.
Btw, there is another " people say " in my country :
" even what you don't eat it hurts your organism/stomach "
Please be happy following the Lewm's advice: " life is to short ".
You don't need to increment your today very high frustaration level in this thread.
Btw, I posted that the Dyna tonearms are not my cup of tea so I don't care about any more.
Dear kirkus: Maybe people do not give especial attention to those B&O cartridges because its very low weigth that gives some problems to balance it through the tonearms. IMHO, is worth to listen to.
If yes just try Baerwald or Löfgren alignment changing the P2S distance from Stevenson. Then listen and listen in between ( B, L and S alignments. ) and return here to share your experiences there.""
You left out the stupid part (above). Your ignorance is only exceeded by your arrogance. DV is none of those alignments. I posted that at least twice.
Remember when you came on VE years ago and we had a running battle? You're just as ignorant now, as then. Every MC was hopelessly distorted and you heard them all. You're ridiculous.
Using a forum for private sales and not paying a fee is a separate issue. I wonder what the new owners of this site will think of such behavior?
Dear azjake: I really don't care of those people trying to " insult/disregards " my opinion. Some one, like me, that post and posted several times a day always exist persons that because their audio knowledge level disagree or because they can't understand my points puts at " defensive " attaking me with out success and normally ends in the frustration of each one of them but that's how things are " around here " or " around me " because it happens in other forums through the net. All these kind of people still think that each thread/post is a contest and each one of them wants to win when my self only want to learn and share first hand experiences, that's all.
There is a telling people here in México ( please is not an insult to any one, far away from that. Is only a way to say things in some ocasions.): " let the dogs shout ".
Nice to know from you again. It's pity that many of the " regulars " in this analog forum suddenly " disappeared " ??????
Dear friends: Curious, this is what Dover posted at the end of 2013:
"""" I prefer Baerwald A for all my pivoted arms including the Dynavector which was designed for Stevenson. """
and in this thread he disregards me " severely " because I used/tested Baerwald/Löfgren B with Dyna tonearm !!!!!!!!!!!
Btw, that’s the first time I read: Baerwald A, maybe a new kind of alignment by dover. Now, I understand why dover posted his " history " and seems to me that was to justify him self with other people eyes about his audio " knowledge " level.
Please accept my apologies for those that would make fun of you for your "not perfect English'...:-(
In addition let me state that i have read dozens of your posts or replies and have even joined you with discussions on several topics and NOT ONCE did i ever feel you were spiteful or just plain mean!
Those above [and they know who they are!] are accusing you of having an opinion...:-)
And we all know that opinions are like "Assholes" everybody has one!
Do not be deterred by ignorance or the millionth person who beats his chest to the sad "my comparison is to real,unamplified music" and i have GOLDEN EARS syndrome!
You must be kidding. I'm beginning to wonder if in fact, you have a brain cell. You go back to '13 to quote Dover?
dover: """ do you have right now on hand the 505?
If yes just try Baerwald or Löfgren alignment changing the P2S distance from Stevenson. Then listen and listen in between ( B, L and S alignments. ) and return here to share your experiences there.
If not, your post is useless and futile this time. """
There's only one reason you'd write something so stupid.
I agree with Soundsmith. You're an undeclared manufacturer using this forum to promote your private sales. I wonder how many of your preamp sales and used cartridges exchanges paid a fee to AudioGon. I suspect you dine in luxury and fail to leave a tip.
I was going to explain where I think you went wrong in your basic assumptions, but upon further reflection, I think not.
SME III´s very low mass hyper rigid titanium-nitride armtube is damped by teak strips, a small oil reservoir under linked to armtube adds extra damping if necessary. SME III is a superior performer with high compliance carts, with oil or without depending on a cart used, IME since 1987. I think it can get the best out of any HC cart, and it works nicely with lower compliance carts as well due to adjustable counter balance system (thin lead plates). Obviously designed especially for HC carts. A classic SME at finest.
You must have a verified phone number and physical address in order to post in the Audiogon Forums. Please return to Audiogon.com and complete this step. If you have any questions please contact Support.
