time to change tt's

Check out the VPI Classic.. also, try other brand interconnects and power cable.

Yep, the VPI Classic lives up to its name. Grab one before they're gone.

please let me know if you plan to change arm, 'cause I do.

Have you guys listened to the classic.
I don't know if the arm will go yet. I
will purchase something before I part with
my current tt.
Thanks for the response.
Richard

I really would like to know more about the
classic. How about the accoustic solid?
thanks
Richard

Dear Richard: +++++ " I would like to upgrade the source either by upgrading my current tt or purchasing another one " +++++

your realsource is the tonearm/cartridge you own. IMHO and due that your TT is a decent one if you want a serious and rea quality imporvement on your analog audio system performance my advise is that you try a new source: tonearm/cartridge r a better cartridge that can match with that tonearm.

Regards and enjoy the music,
Raul.

Good point Raul. I have been told that real advantages are associated with a table that has no suspension. With that said do you have any suggestions for an arm?
Richard

your table is a classic. not familiar with the arm, but the other sugestions are just change for the sake of change.

The technoarm was designed around the Michell tables. I owned a gyro and passed it own to my daughter who still rocks with it. I do like the nonsuspended table but the gyro is a very credible table for the money. You might consider the technoarm or one of the SME arms.

lateral move. Emphasis on 'at best'. It's no more than HP's latest marketing effort to ride whatever wave the audio blogs are surfing at any given moment.

I'd suggest an idler, preferably a Garrard 301/401 (around 1k) if you can do some diy. Otherwise, you can take a stab at a non-suspended-belt-drive-made-by-VPI by purchasing a used Scout. Good sonics, you can get out of it for whatever you put in, but it will still have the crappy, coggy Hurst motor (forget ever trying to implement tape drive with that thing) and you'll need an SDS to really make it work (same for the 'Classic', btw, or in fact any VPI deck).

Or, take Raul's advice-the deck you've got ain't chopped liver, and in fact, if you've got the scratch to 'lend' yourself for a few weeks, you could do the 'Scout' purchase and compare in the comfort and privacy of your own home.

Anyway, have fun.

The post above was meant to begin with 'Buying a 'Classic' would be, at best, a...'

Are you dissatisfied with the basic sound of the Gyro? The upgrades do bring it up to a high level, but are only worth it if you are already happy with the basic sound.

The standard upgrades are the Orbe clamp, the tonearm decoupler, the Orbe platter, and the HR PSU. The first two are cheap to order from Analogue Seduction in the UK. The Orbe platter comes with the Orbe clamp, or you can just order the clamp, which is what I opted to do.

The PSU is a big improvement in background quietness, bass, and speed stability. I got mine for $500 on ebay, and to be honest the current import price of $900 would probably have scared me away. (To be fair, the VPI SDS is even more expensive, though it is fancier.) I believe the PSU only needs a different fuse (T1A) for 120V operation, but I'm not sure about that.

I would also get a good speed tester like the KAB SpeedStrobe.

Thanks to all who posted the valuble info, insights etc.
My system has served me trouble and allowed me the luxury of enjoying the music. I just replaced the ac motor with the new dc motor so I am looking to freshen thing up. With the info you have given me I can make an informed conclusion.
Thanks
Richard

I'm with Viridian here.
Where else to go with analogue? Perhaps going for the higher class speakers to make bucks spent more efficient having no experience with the other TTs.
For the starter and for the time being this setup can easily be somebody else dream final analogue setup after which there's no logical reason to upgrade further unless enthusiasm dominates common sense.

Given the time coherent design of the 2CEs, I think they will easily reveal the quality (or not) of any upgrade one might make.

If I were looking for an upgrade after making some of the cheaper standard tweaks to the table, I'd start haunting the tonearm classifieds.

I started with an Incognito rewired RB300 on my Gyro and then upgraded to a used SME 309. While I did gain much more refinement, the Rega arm has a beefy, bold sound that I bet many people would prefer. The reason you see so many arms that are just modded versions of the Rega 25x/30x series is that they are very hard to beat at that price level.