Thoughts on SS bass. Tube mid and high tube pre


Hi all. 

I am considering Bi amping my system. 

Current system is;
Audio Note M6 Phono pre amp 
Audio Note P4 mono blocks
Audio Note 3.1 dac
Tannoy. MG 12'S with split Xover
Heil air motion tweeters on top

I have a Bryston 4b pro on hand that I thought I might run the low end off of and run the mids and highs off the P4's. 
My Tannoy cross overs are split 

Your thoughts, cautions are appreciated. 
128x128pkvintage
Sounds like a plan to me. It will help if your cross over has level control.
What is the input impedance of the Heil speaker by itself?  I bet it's on the low side, but I don't know.
Good point on the sub. The heils are a recent addition so I have listened extensively without them. I just run the Heils off the high / mid side of speaker binding posts with a 3.9 film cap in line.
If you’re running a sub you likely already have SS bass. Try without the Heil. I bet the overall bass improves because you’re doing your main amplifier a big favor by increasing the impedance it has to drive. Just try it.
The Bryston is a pro model so it has a gain control. I use the Heils because I like what they add. It maybe a slight hearing loss thing for me. I am not unhappy with what I have just thought I would experiment a little that’s all. I didn’t mention that I do use a small but quality sub that fills out the bottom end nicely.

What prompted the thread was the additional bass I get when I switch in a SS receiver that I have without the sub. Marantz pm6 120 watt per side.
So..... The sweetness of my P4 tubes combined with some SS bass could be a great combo.
I would think very carefully before doing this. Your speakers are the limiting factor here. I would go with Tekton. They have more drivers. The Tekton Moab for example has 17 drivers. So you could have 17 amps. If that's not enough the Ulfberht has 21. If you were to go monoblock that would be 42 amps. The only problem I can think of, bi is 2, tri is 3, octo is 8, but I don't know the word for 21.
Based on what Dover suggests, if you were to bi-amp, why not run a separate amplifier to the Heil tweeter? While that would do nothing for power demands in the bass, it would at least reduce the effect on impedance of running the supertweeter in parallel with the Tannoy. (The two speakers in parallel reduce the net impedance seen by the amp, as I am sure you know.) The resulting increase in the impedance seen by the tube amplifier can only help it to cope with power demands. (Tubes do better as regards both power output and distortion when interfaced with higher impedance speakers as compared to the net of 4 ohms you may be dealing with now.) Also, or as an alternative, add a subwoofer with its own amplification.
If you are into having a really expensive, really cool looking system that soaks up money and space far out of all proportion to how good it sounds, you could scarcely dream of a better method than bi-amping. Bi-wiring is for chumps. EQ? Spare me. Bi-amping rules. 

In truth only one thing beats bi-amping. Tri-amping. Be sure to use mono-blocks. Preferably with outboard power supplies. Because as everyone knows the more boxes and wires the better it sounds.
First Watt amps voiced with Tannoy, probably the best amp for them if you want killer SS amp.

The Tannoy Monitor Gold's crossover is in the midrange - 1000hz.
The tweeter and base are aligned with the crossover and physical position such that at the cross over point the tweeter and base are perfectly in sync with both phase and time - hence the name "dual concentric".  Unlike other dual concentric drivers, this phase coherency at the crossover is the key to the Tannoy sound.

If you use different amplifiers for the tweeter and base, they will have different time constants and you will destroy the phase coherence at the crossover point. You will defeat the whole purpose of the Tannoy design.

You should stick to one amp, unless you want to try the same amps top and bottom.

Personally on my 15" Monitor Golds ( Belvedere Seniors & GRF Professionals ) I prefer high power solid state to tubes as the Tannoy drivers are medium efficiency, as you increase volume they soak up more power at an increasing rate.
Assuming the Bryston's input sensitivity is close or identical to your other amps, go for it!You should get much more bass energy than now.BTW, you do have a pre (or a volume pot) somewhere in the system? Regards