Yes, and mainboard has to come out, like I said it’s not your typical 1/2hr job on this, a bit of a fiddle on this unit.
https://ibb.co/DVNzqQk
https://ibb.co/f9gn1Hc
Cheers George
https://ibb.co/DVNzqQk
https://ibb.co/f9gn1Hc
Cheers George
Shangling CD-T100 CD Player in need of repair
I have a Shangling CD-T100 that can use some service. It has at random a ticking sound something like a scratch on a record and sometimes it seems like a fraction of a word is cut off, something like skip. I am talking like only one letter of a word. This does not happen often but when it does it takes away from my enjoyment of the music. I live in the San Fernando Valley in California and looking for someone to check this out so I do not have to send it across the country. If I have to ship it I will but hate to have this bounced around.
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Bruce, if it’s definatly the CD-100 MkI it has 4 x square transformers across the back, Vam1202 complete mech, laser is the CDM12.10 Usually a 1/2hr job but a bit of a fiddle on this unit, https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=Vam1202&_sacat=0 Won’t break the bank either But I'd go Genuine Philips for a few buck more https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PHILIPS-CD-DVD-LASER-LENS-VAM1202-W-MECHANISM/361604163648?hash=item543149a840:g:Kf0AAOSwOLVbTcZK Cheers George |
The transport on my CD-T100 (gen 1) has gotten noisy over the years - enough that it's distracting with quiet music. Would replacing my mechanism with a VAM1202 do the trick to quiet it down? I've tried playing with the lid adjustment but it seem to have no effect on the noise. The noise definitely varies with speed of the disc - it sound like it's the disc motor to me. I haven't had it apart yet so if there are any tricks I'd love to know about them - all advise welcome. Cheer, Bruce |
Hi George, I hope you done mind me piggy-backing on this thread as I dont seem to ba able to send you a mail directly. I'm a wee bit desperate as I have a Shanling CDT-300 in for repair, part of the PSU is not working and I'd really like to get my hands on a schematic before proceeding. I noted on this thread that you have a schematic for the CDT100, so perhaps you have one for the CDT300 or can point me at someone who does? I'm in the UK. Many thanks in anticipation. Cheers, Colin |
Hi George, This I found interesting, I received the new laser assembly. After installing it, the first CD I put in did not read, the second CD I put in, it read but when I pushed play the disk spun but nothing happened. Thinking the laser was not moving it could be a mechanical problem I took the player apart, mechanically everything seemed OK. I took out the laser assembly. I found a small pin hole in the ribbon, THINGS HAPPEN. I decided to order 2 laser’s from China, I could get 2 cheaper then what I paid for one locally. Knowing I would have to wait 3 to 4 weeks to get them I decided to put my original laser back in so I can listen in the meantime, I could put up with an occasional click or a skip. This is the kicker, first I put the 2” notched bar on the laser assemble, I do not know the proper name but it is used to drive the laser, it fell off when I took the laser out and it fell off again when I went to put the assembly back in, this happened 2 times. I looked at the new laser and that bar had tension from a fine wire which mine did not have. I could see the wire was held in place with some adhesive, looking at the mine with a magnifying glass it looked clean, no adhesive or anything. I took the wire out of the new laser put some crazy glue on each end and put in place. After installing the laser the CD player worked perfect. No skipping, no clicking or anything. I had a couple of CD’s that at the very end skipped or locked up, this started quite a few years ago and I thought they were bad and now they play perfect. This could be just a coincidence and it might act up again but for now it is working as it should. |
Here is the response fro USA Tube Audio Hello Frank, Tech support time is billed at $125 per hour and most gear is repaired within 2 hours. The Laser cost and there 3 different does of lasers used on the Shanling's, will cost about $290. Shanking is now out of business as well. Turn around is about 2 weeks time. Happy to help. Best, Paul 1-800-676-1085 Ext 2 |
I just received a response from Paul at USA Tube Audio, he can do the laser replacement but I am not sure if I want to have it done. I did not know this and maybe some of you did not know either but Shanling is out of business. I would hate the thought of it breaking down caused from a designated part that is nowhere to be had. I thought you guys would like to know about Shanling being out of business. |
All I was able to find was the laser itself, I wanted the complete assembly and the only one I found was in Germany and they would not ship to the U.S. so I E-mailed Brooks Berdan and asked them if they could replace the laser, I was told there were no original lasers available for that player and they would not attempt to do the repair with a generic because of problems. I really did not want to ship the player but I did E-mail USA Tube Audio and waiting for their response. |
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About 5 years ago the tubes and the blue light for the
clear CD cover had no power, I took off the bottom cover and found a
couple of bad solder joints that caused diodes to over heat and burn
out. I replaced them with 4 larger ones. (All I could find at the time.) If I remember,
getting to the laser looked a little complicated. I will give a try but I would feel better if I had a breakdown of the player. Just in case do you know where I
can get a detailed exploded view how to get to the laser mechanism. |
Great player very sought after, even Thorsten Losech of AMR fame told me he wished he keep his one, they’re that good. Connect it direct into a poweramp using the digital domain volume control that’s in it, and forget about a preamp. Random ticks can be the laser not error correcting small scratches/warps, also rapid fire ticks, and if bad sometimes the music refuses to progress at all it just gets stuck. 200hrs sounds a short time yes, but also just being left switched on certain cdp’s can use up laser life. Lasers them selves also have a very small rubber suspension system that ages/decays and can sag over time even without use. Yes the laser/mech is a Philips CDM12.10 if your handy they aren’t that hard to change the whole laser/mech. Just laser is harder. And they’re cheap enough to do if you do it yourself. There may be a protective antistatic ribbon cable solder bubble you have to unbridge, but I think not, as the end of the ribbon cable looks like it has metal clamp for a protective short, that has to be removed before pushing it into the main board. Cheers George
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Thank You for your information, Yes I have the early player with the 4 transformers. I bought it new and did not use it much, I doubt if it has 200 hours on it. Would the week laser also account for the random ticking sound or just the skipping or both. If I replaced it, it looks like I will need the CDM-12.10, is that correct. I have to get the manual out but if I remember correctly I believe the player has the Philips drive. I would like the OEM part unless you you think another brand would be better. And yes I did clean the Laser. |
Sound to me like the laser is getting weak and can’t error correct as good as it used to. Do you have the early one (best) with the 4 square transformers? (great r2r multibit unit) http://lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/REFERENCES/SHANLING%20T100/shanlingcdt100.jpg Laser/mech CDM-12.10
Or the later one with the three rounded transformers, not as good. http://www.china-hifi-audio.com/images/Shanling/Shanling-T-100-MKII-hiend-CD-player-5.jpg Laser/Mech VAM-1201 Have you tried to clean the laser? If clean, they are getting quite old now and may need to be replaced. Cheers George |