Shangling CD-T100 CD Player in need of repair

Great that all is good now. You are now what's called a laser modifier, first one I've ever heard of.

Now you know how easy they are to replace, and how some charge way too much to do the job.

Cheers George 

Just found where I posted that Wadia analog output gain change so the digital VC for best resolution need to be close to max. You may need to be a member to open it.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/digital-source/531571d1455620405-digital-domain-volume-control-wadia-25-dac-volume-settings.pdf

Cheers George

Makes them even more valuable now. He hasn’t offered to buy it cheap from you, as I will so would Thorsten Losech of AMR?

Shanlings website is still functioning????????

Cheers George

I have used some of the non originals before without troubles, just made sure I got it from a seller with good feedback. And your always protected with ebays buyer protection plan, if it doesn’t work. And they are cheap enough to take a punt on.

Cheers George

I've got the circuit manual, give me your email address if you want it.

Cheers George

Done

Cheers George

Great player very sought after, even Thorsten Losech of AMR fame told me he wished he keep his one, they’re that good. Connect it direct into a poweramp using the digital domain volume control that’s in it, and forget about a preamp.

Random ticks can be the laser not error correcting small scratches/warps, also rapid fire ticks, and if bad sometimes the music refuses to progress at all it just gets stuck. 200hrs sounds a short time yes, but also just being left switched on certain cdp’s can use up laser life. Lasers them selves also have a very small rubber suspension system that ages/decays and can sag over time even without use.

Yes the laser/mech is a Philips CDM12.10 if your handy they aren’t that hard to change the whole laser/mech. Just laser is harder. And they’re cheap enough to do if you do it yourself.

There may be a protective antistatic ribbon cable solder bubble you have to unbridge, but I think not, as the end of the ribbon cable looks like it has metal clamp for a protective short, that has to be removed before pushing it into the main board.

Cheers George

Sound to me like the laser is getting weak and can’t error correct as good as it used to.

Do you have the early one (best) with the 4 square transformers? (great r2r multibit unit)

http://lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/REFERENCES/SHANLING%20T100/shanlingcdt100.jpg

Laser/mech CDM-12.10

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=CDM12.10&_sacat=0

Or the later one with the three rounded transformers, not as good.

http://www.china-hifi-audio.com/images/Shanling/Shanling-T-100-MKII-hiend-CD-player-5.jpg

Laser/Mech VAM-1201

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=CDM12.10&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=VAM1201&_sacat=0

Have you tried to clean the laser? If clean, they are getting quite old now and may need to be replaced.

Cheers George

Do it yourself with one of the cheap units.

http://www.shanling.com/en-US/Home/Index

Cheers George