Replacement capacitors exploding

@itsjustme-  It's comical that you'd say something like, "....  are you familiar with all the rating components, and with all the various types of capacitors and their pluses and minuses? It gets pretty arcane quickly." and then assert, " Electrolytic, which would be smaller, are polarized and cannot work that environment. They would be reverse polarized (sometimes) and almost certainly fail."      fyi: Bipolar electrolytics have been used in countless speaker systems, from the very beginnings of audio.                                    When I was in the electronic repair/speaker reconing business, I lost count of the systems that came through the door, with just one bipolar electrolytic, meant to block lows from the tweeter.     Perhaps another, higher uF value, if there was a midrange driver.      Junk, but still........

What construction/ "lytics? Film? What? Where did you get them?

I ask because there is TON of fake stuff coming out of China, especially on ebay, that is just crap. Rated 100V, fails to 60. I got some others that leaked like a sieve when i tested them.
Its very sad, but you need to get stuff from very reputable sources.

You did not mention the type, rating etc. Not to condescend, but are you familiar with all the rating components, and with all the various types of capacitors and their pluses and minuses? It gets pretty arcane quickly. Get all the data, c’mon back and happy to help.

In almost all speaker crossovers you want film types. Film cannot explode.Electrolytic, which would be smaller, are polarized and cannot work that environment. They would be reverse polarized (sometimes) and almost certainly fail.

I’m convincing myself you did this. Get some expert advice since they are also awful audio caps - very nonlinear, and have a short life. Films (which were likely in there) will last (i kid you not) 100 years.

G

What is the value and voltage rating on the caps?
Also,  I suspect that you have an DC Offset issue with the amp being used. 

BP should mean Bi-Polar. They SHOULD be the same... Try to find Non-Polar, think the last time I bought some NP caps was on Mouser Electronics. I'll check later to see if they are NP or BP. What are the voltage ratings of the new caps and what brand?

Upon closer examination, the old capacitors say NP and the new ones say BP.

I’ve been searching for non-polarized capacitors and I have found three different sites where the item description says non-polarized capacitor and then the photo is of a capacitor with BP written on it, not NP What is that about?

The voltage rating is too low. Poor quality capacitors. Replacement caps installed are not Non-Polarized.

I had a similar problem at work.  The caps would just open.  They looked to be electrolytic, just physically much smaller.  When I opened one up, it was hollow with a tiny chip inside!  

Generally speaking: a cap will be used to roll off a woofer at a steeper rate (ie: 12dB/oct), going to ground, between a series connected inductor and the woofer.       I’d say you’re clipping your monitor amps, but- that usually will take out the tweeters first.       Try doubling (at least) the rated voltage of the caps, keeping capacitance the same as the original.       If you can afford them (high voltage/high capacitance can get salty): try metal film caps, rather than electrolytics.           Whatever you do; be certain the caps are non-polarized.          Higher capacitance values can be reached, by paralleling caps, which may be a less expensive way to afford metal films (ie: Metalized Mylars).      Paralleling caps DOES NOT increase the power handling (voltage rating).