Need some advice on replacing a B&W tweeter


Well, I just picked up a used B&W LCR60 S3 center channel speaker. I'm a blind guy, and when I was taking it out of the box, I accidently pushed in the dome tweeter..and left a dent on it!!! First of all, I'm extremely pissed off at myself. And second of all, any thoughts on what I should do? I really do take care of my stuff, but when you're blind, sometimes it bites you in the worst way. So I would appreciate any help on this. Can I get buy with a small dent in the tweeter? Or should I order a replacement part? Thanks very much guys...
hawkmoon2e436f
Try putting a piece of scotch tape lightly over the dent and lightly try to pull the dent back...I wouldn't replace it unless it sounds bad.
I would do the same as Thorman if I've got a dent. Having said that, if the dent is real serious I *may* get it replaced even though it sounds perfectly normal. Availability of parts and cost of replacement would then dictate my decision.

By the way, are you getting a friend to assist you in typing/reading the responses?
I replaced tweeters on both of my B&W DM 603s which I believe uses the same general construction as the LCR (I have one of those as well). The cost was fairly low--I think about $25 each (but it has been a while). The job was pretty simple too. It involves removing one of the mid-woofers in order to gain access to the inside of the box. The tweeter is held in place via a bayonet mount--twisting the tweeter about a quarter turn will release it from it's mounting ring. From there, it's a matter of unplugging the speaker wire lugs (they are the push on type--no soldering), and connecting the new tweeter. The US company for B&W (and Rotel) service is in Massachusetts and they were very helpful over the phone.
I used another trick to solve the problem with a N804 tweeter: rub the dent softly but rapidly with a Q-tip swab; the heat from the friction will pop the dent up in about a minute or so.
Thanks guys for the help. And BTW, I'm typing this myself. I use screen reading software on my computer...
I tried some of those things, and it looks like it's pushed in a bit too far. I called the shop where I bought it from, and the guy that sold it to me said that he could help me out with it.
Thanks again guys for responding to my post. I'm sort of new at this whole AudioPhile thing...and I just learned a valuable lesson.
Take care...
There is another method of tweeter repair. You can give it a kiss. Put your lips on the tweeter and gently suck. GENTLY!!!!!! It only take a small vacuum to pull the dent out.

I have had sucess with this in the past.

Good Luck!!!
Just a surprising update on this:

Turns out that either the speaker had a bad tweeter in it, or I pushed it in so far that it damaged it enough to not work. I brought it back to the guy that sold it to me. (Dave at Future Sounds in Burlingame, CA)
The speaker itself is about a year and a half old. The first owner returned it to upgrade, and so I bought it about a month ago. Anyway, instead of trying to pull out the dent to see if that would fix it, Dave just pulled the whole tweeter out and swapped it for a new one--right there on the spot. That was it...no charge...no nothin'! I'd say that's pretty good service!
(I'm just glad I brought him a Starbucks gift card for being willing to look at it) :-)

Thanks again guys.
anyone who knows how to replace a tweeter on top of nautilus speaker? I ordered a new one but don't know how to replace it on a HTM3s. any step by step instruction will be helpful and greatly appreciated.
Remove the grille.....it is held on by a magnet. Then give the tweeter a twist.....counter clockwise, If I remember right. No tools.....really easy.

Future sounds is one of the few great audio stores around San Francisco. Not pushy, friendly and helpful. 

My LCR60 S3 tweeter is pretty mangled, afraid it DOES impact the sound. They are offering the DIAPHRAGM on ebay and other places for little cost (under $20), but not the whole speaker (ZZ12939 ??).

How does replacing the diaghragm only work? Any links? Obviously the leads need to be soldered back on. But is gluing of the diaphragm needed (like refoaming)? How to ensure voice is conentric in the gap? Does the ferrofluid (not even sure if the tweeter IS fluid cooled) need to be topped off/replaced as well?

Or better off buying a complete tweeter?

What B&W models use the same tweeter (if any)? Found this list (no idea if accurate, or only applying to the diapgragm).

  • DM600 S3
  • DM601 S3
  • DM602 S3
  • DM602.5 S3
  • DM603 S3
  • DM604 S3
  • LCR600 S3
  • LCR60 S3

Youtube has shown how easy it is to replace them.  I could not tell the difference on my N805 when listening. My kids pushed in one of them years.  It was a cosmetic thing for me to change it 5 years later. Good kuck