My Long List of Amplifiers and My Personal Review of Each!


So I have been in a long journey looking to find the best amplifiers for my martin logan montis. As you know, the match between an amplifier and speakers has to be a good "marriage" and needs to be blend exquisitely. Right now, I think I might have found the best sounding amplifier for martin logan. I have gone through approximately 34-36 amplifiers in the past 12 months. Some of these are:

Bryston ST, SST, SST2 series
NAD M25
PARASOUND HALO
PARASOUND CLASSIC
KRELL TAS
KRELL KAV 500
KRELL CHORUS
ROTEL RMB 1095
CLASSE CT 5300
CLASSE CA 2200
CLASSE CA 5200
MCINTOSH MC 205
CARY AUDIO CINEMA 7
OUTLAW AUDIO 755
LEXICON RX7
PASS LABS XA 30.8
BUTLER AUDIO 5150
ATI SIGNATURE SERIES 6005

With all that said, the amplifiers I mentioned above are the ones that in my opinion are worth mentioning. To make a long story short, there is NO 5 CHANNEL POWER AMP that sounds as good as a 3ch and 2ch amplifier combination. i have done both experiments and the truth is that YOU DO lose details and more channel separation,etc when you select a 5 channel power amplifier of any manufacturer.
My recollection of what each amp sounded like is as follows:

ATI SIGNATURE SERIES 6005 (great power and amazing soundstage. Very low noise floor, BUT this amplifiers NEEDS TO BE cranked up in order to fully enjoy it. If you like listening at low volume levels or somewhat moderate, you are wasting your time here. This amp won’t sound any different than many other brands out there at this volume. The bass is great, good highs although they are a bit bright for my taste)

NAD M25 (very smooth, powerful, but somewhat thin sounding as far as bass goes)
Bryston sst2(detailed, good soundstage, good power, but can be a little forward with certain speakers which could make them ear fatiguing at loud volumes)

Krell (fast sounding, nice bass attack, nice highs, but some detail does get lost with certain speakers)

rotel (good amp for the money, but too bright in my opinion)

cary audio (good sound overall, very musical, but it didn’t have enough oomph)

parasound halo (good detail, great bass, but it still holds back some background detail that i can hear in others)

lexicon (very laid back and smooth. huge power, but if you like more detail or crisper highs, this amp will disappoint you)

McIntosh mc205 (probably the worst multichannel amp given its price point. it was too thin sounding, had detail but lacked bass.

butler audio (good amplifier. very warm and smooth sweet sounding. i think for the money, this is a better amp than the parasound a51)

pass labs (very VERY musical with excellent bass control. You can listen to this for hours and hours without getting ear fatigue. however, it DOES NOT do well in home theater applications if all you have is a 2 channel set up for movies. The midrange gets somewhat "muddy" or very weak sounding that you find yourself trying to turn it up.

classe audio (best amplifier for multi channel applications. i simply COULDNT FIND a better multi channel amplifier PERIOD. IT has amazing smoothness, amazing power and good bass control although i would say krell has much better bass control)

Update: The reviews above were done in January 2015. Below is my newest update as of October 2016:



PS AUDIO BHK 300 MONOBLOCKS: Amazing amps. Tons of detail and really amazing midrange. the bass is amazing too, but the one thing i will say is that those of you with speakers efficiency of 87db and below you will not have all the "loudness" that you may want from time to time. These amps go into protection mode when using a speaker such as the Salon, but only at very loud levels. Maybe 97db and above. If you don’t listen to extreme crazy levels, these amps will please you in every way.

Plinius Odeon 7 channel amp: This is THE BEST multichannel amp i have ever owned. Far , but FAR SUPERIOR to any other multichannel amp i have owned. In my opinion it destroyed all of the multichannel amps i mentioned above and below. The Odeon is an amp that is in a different tier group and it is in a league of its own. Amazing bass, treble and it made my center channel sound more articulate than ever before. The voices where never scrambled with the action scenes. It just separated everything very nicely.

Theta Dreadnaught D: Good detailed amp. Looks very elegant, has a pleasant sound, but i found it a tad too bright for my taste. I thought it was also somewhat "thin" sounding lacking body to the music. could be that it is because it is class d?

Krell Duo 300: Good amp. Nice and detailed with enough power to handle most speakers out there. I found that it does have a very nice "3d" sound through my electrostatics. Nothing to fault here on this amp.
Mark Levinson 532H: Great 2 channel amp. Lots of detail, amazing midrange which is what Mark Levinson is known for. It sounds very holographic and will please those of you looking for more detail and a better midrange. As far as bass, it is there, but it is not going to give you the slam of a pass labs 350.5 or JC1s for example. It is great for those that appreciate classical music, instrumental, etc, but not those of you who love tons of deep bass.

 It is articulate sounding too
Krell 7200: Plenty of detail and enough power for most people. i found that my rear speakers contained more information after installed this amp. One thing that i hated is that you must use xlr cables with this amp or else you lose most of its sound performance when using RCA’s.

Krell 402e: Great amp. Very powerful and will handle any speaker you wish. Power is incredible and with great detail. That said, i didn’t get all the bass that most reviewers mentioned. I thought it was "ok" in regards to bass. It was there, but it didn’t slam me to my listening chair.

Bryston 4B3: Good amp with a complete sound. I think this amp is more laid back than the SST2 version. I think those of you who found the SST2 version of this amp a little too forward with your speakers will definitely benefit from this amp’s warmth. Bryston has gone towards the "warm" side in my opinion with their new SST3 series. As always, they are built like tanks. I wouldn’t call this amp tube-like, but rather closer to what the classe audio delta 2 series sound like which is on the warm side of things.

Parasound JC1s: Good powerful amps. Amazing low end punch (far superior bass than the 402e). This amp is the amp that i consider complete from top to bottom in regards to sound. Nothing is lacking other than perhaps a nicer chassis. Parasound needs to rework their external appearance when they introduce new amps. This amp would sell much more if it had a revised external appearance because the sound is a great bang for the money. It made my 800 Nautilus scream and slam. Again, amazing low end punch.

Simaudio W7: Good detailed amp. This amp reminds me a lot of the Mark Levinson 532h. Great detail and very articulate. I think this amp will go well with bookshelves that are ported in order to compensate for what it lacks when it comes to the bass. That doesn’t mean it has no bass, but when it is no Parasound JC1 either.
Pass labs 350.5: Wow, where do i begin? maybe my first time around with the xa30.8 wasn’t as special as it was with this monster 350.5. It is just SPECTACULAR sounding with my electrostatics. The bass was THE BEST BASS i have ever heard from ANY amp period. The only amp that comes close would be the jC1s. It made me check my settings to make sure the bass was not boosted and kept making my jaw drop each time i heard it. It totally destroyed the krell 402e in every regard. The krell sounded too "flat" when compared to this amp. This amp had amazing mirange with great detail up top. In my opinion, this amp is the best bang for the money. i loved this amp so much that i ended up buying the amp that follows below.

Pass labs 250.8: What can i say here. This is THE BEST STEREO AMP i have ever heard. This amp destroys all the amps i have listed above today to include the pass labs 350.5. It is a refined 350.5 amp. It has more 3d sound which is something the 350.5 lacked. It has a level of detail that i really have never experienced before and the bass was amazing as well. I really thought it was the most complete power amplifier i have ever heard HANDS DOWN. To me, this is a benchmark of an amplifier. This is the amp that others should be judged by. NOTHING is lacking and right now it is the #1 amplifier that i have ever owned.

My current amps are Mcintosh MC601s: i decided to give these 601s a try and they don’t disappoint. They have great detail, HUGE soundstage, MASSIVE power and great midrange/highs. The bass is great, but it is no pass labs 250.8 or 350.5. As far as looks, these are the best looking amps i have ever owned. No contest there. i gotta be honest with you all, i never bought mcintosh monos before because i wasn’t really "wowed" by the mc452, but it could have been also because at that time i was using a processor as a preamp which i no longer do. Today, i own the Mcintosh C1100 2 chassis tube preamp which sounds unbelievable. All the amps i just described above have been amps that i auditioned with the C1100 as a preamp. The MC601s sound great without a doubt, but i will say that if you are looking for THE BEST sound for the money, these would not be it. However, Mcintosh remains UNMATCHED when it comes to looks and also resale value. Every other amp above depreciates much faster than Mcintosh.

That said, my future purchase (when i can find a steal of a deal) will be the Pass labs 350.8. I am tempted to make a preliminary statement which is that i feel this amp could be THE BEST stereo amp under 30k dollars. Again, i will be able to say more and confirm once i own it. I hope this update can help you all in your buying decisions!


128x128jays_audio_lab
I just had it on the nordost machine that burns them in... 216 hours total break in time. We will see what happens as I let them settle in the system for about 3 more days. 
@whitecamaross 

Wireworld Platinum 8 xlr - refresh our memory. Starlight or Eclipse?
Hi WC, I have a quick question regarding cabling since you are on that topic. I'm proceeding with a purchase of the Gryphon Diablo 300 based on your suggestion for my B&W 803 Diamond speakers and subsequent auditioning (thanks for the tip), and am wondering how big of a performance delta I would expect using Valhalla 2 PC versus something lower end like an Audioquest Hurricane.  In another thread some are saying that the difference using any cable won't be that different from the stock Gryphon cable, based on the Diablo's design? Not sure if that is true or not.  Odin is definitely not a consideration for me (unfortunately....).  I'm also considering the PC for my InnuOS Zenith MKIII streamer which I've ordered.
Grey9hound,
Thanks for the article.  Makes sense.  Still, I find relatively small subjective differences after break in, with components and cables. A big exception was the Nordost Frey 2 XLR interconnects, which were crystal clear at first and then became comparatively blurry.  My Nordost Frey 2 RCA interconnects are still wonderfully clear and precise.
Gentlemen,
i plugged in the second Odin 1 powercord into the system and now the ref10 has its own nordost Odin. This Cable is used so it has miles on it and within the first minutes of playtime, the sound DRASTICALLY improved. I don’t know what they put in these cables but wow. The nordost powercords are just KINGS. Far far exceeding my previous cables. What a spectacular powercord. I’m in shock to say the least.
@whitecamaross 

I hope you are OK with me asking again.

You mention you have Wireworld Platinum 8 xlr - refresh our memory. Is it Starlight or Eclipse? Will be good info for all to know.

Glad the Odin 1 is showing itself in your system.
Wireworld platinum 8.. if it has the word “platinum” then that’s their top model. Only their top model has the word “platinum”. 
@pokey77 Are you asking analog or digital?

I think Starlight is their digital cable series and Eclipse is their analog interconnect.
@whitecamaross 

OK

@eziggy

Thanks, that makes sense. I didn't pay close enough attention to the Google search and the fact the names pertain to the different cables in the Platinum line. So the XLR cable is the Platinum Eclipse.
Eclipse line is in both speaker cables and interconnect.
WC has the Platinum Eclipse 8 speaker cables.
Platinum Eclipse 8 is their top of the line, then Silver Eclipse 8 , then Gold Eclipse 8.

http://www.wireworldcable.com/speaker-cables.html#quickcomp_speak

http://www.wireworldcable.com/audio-interconnects.html#quickcomp_inter



WCSS,
I think I remember that you liked the copper Wireworld  7 over the silver Wireworld 8. Just a thought to check out the copper ones. Sometimes full copper makes for a fuller sound from top to bottom. Silver tends to make the highs stand out more. In the end, a good cable will not bring ear fatigue over a short period of listening. With these new Nordost Odin 1 power cables, it looks like you are getting a spike already with the mids to the highs. A balance may be needed in order to get the sound you are looking for. Just a thought. Wish I could be there to hear these Neoliths. They are just starting to show what they are capable of.
Here is Toroid’s (Steve Schoonover) perspective on Silver Vs Copper.
He is/was the owner of Superior Mass Audio. They made a cable called "The West Star".
They hand built cables from the mines they own or owned.
It seems that hey are no longer in business, but he does talk about Silver vs C101 Copper.

Our family owns mines in New Mexico.

Working with the different elements and experimenting
with my own kilns creating pieces for different things,
and the experiment goes on and on since the early 90’s
long before this topic was an issue for the best sound
in any given system.

If you have to unscrew the RCA barrel to open up the
sound from a cable then that cable should be rendered
useless. All connectors affect the wire, period. I will
not even begin to get into metallurgy.

This is why the best speaker crossovers are hand built and point
to point soldiered "Old School" no fancy looking crossover
board with a name and a pricey logo with paper thin copper
contacts that would burn up if you tried to jump your car with
it.

I agree with Green, unscrew the barrel or just chop the whole
end off!, and re soldier it directly to to piece of equipment.

Getting back to reality, silver vs. copper or a blend, in my 27
years of building low frequency cabinets for car and home that produce over 155db @ 30hz for numerous car show and live venue events. has led me into the last 20 years of audiophile 2 channel mastering with no equal. Hearing the difference between every cable silver or copper I have ever made or sold for the last 17 years has led me to believe in both! Silver solid wire for the mids and highs
and solid copper wire for the mid bass and lows. That goes for your
internal wiring of the speaker crossovers too, whether or not the inductors are silver or copper.

There are to many variables in the audio chain that can lead me
to think otherwise.

Good luck and always remember, your ears! They do the final judging.

An ardent audiophile’s perspective.

The link below is to the specs on the West Star Copper cables :

VERY INTERESTING.IMO

952 Feet of twisted pairs. It seems that it took that many to get rid of the "skin effect"

https://www.audiogon.com/listings/speaker-superior-mass-audio-the-west-star-sma-since-1998-2014-09-1...

This "silver" or "copper" speaker cable is not an issue. There usually is a difference in sound like you state. I'm just pointing out a way of taking a look of what the recipe may bring with "copper" speaker cables. I don't like overbearing highs with digital playback. Therefore, I prefer a bit of ease at the top of the music spectrum. Reminds me more of the analog days. Having tweaked the crap out of most things audio in life (a ton), I'm trying to give input on ways to see what's best. That's all. @greyhound, that's cool that you are a car stereo guy as well as me.
Odin 1 pc are keepers without a doubt. I’ll give more of my thoughts tomorrow. 
Has anyone compared KR 242 tubes to the 300b??? 
@WC, my guess is there's a little bit of silver "fairy" dust in those PC's...I'm no expert on cables but I know that I got some cables with a tiny hint of silver and my system opened way up as well.
I'd like to see a cut-away of the cables if I could and examine the engineering.
Quick Update:
the wife prefers the Shunyata speaker cables with the odin 1 powercords than the odin 1 speaker cables. she said, and i quote: "they sound more real like the singer is in the room with us" 
i have a few people coming over this weekend to do a blind fold shootout of the odin 1 speaker cables vs shunyata. 
WC,
Whichever speaker cable is the winner this weekend, spend ONE DOLLAR or so on zip cord.  Buy lamp cord at a hardware store, etc.  You will find it to be more focused, tighter, clearer by a mile than any fat speaker cable you have tried.  Bass will be tighter and more revealing, even if it doesn't have quantitative oomph.  Your buddies should drop on the floor when they hear what zip cord does, in a blind test, against preconceived prejudices against it.  About a month ago, we discussed this, and none of the technically knowledgeable people here could provide convincing explanations about why thin zip has these characteristics.  In contrast, I have found that many power cords have better clarity than stock cords.  So I am not surprised about your findings about Odin power cords and speaker cables.
A friend came over last night and we listened to different types of songs. He did not know which speaker cable was playing as music played. He chose the nordost each time without knowing. His words were:


“The shunyata sounded muscular, bold, in your face and the nordost had better highs and detail without so much bottom end fullness, more natural”

We had odin 1 on the ref10 and oppo. That said, when we cranked things up, we felt that the odin combination had a tad too much brightness. You almost couldn’t hear it loud for a long period of time. I proceeded to take off the Odin 1 from the oppo (this is the newest cable and probably still breaking in) and used a shunyata alpha nr on it and it helped tame things down but what I’m now needing to find out is what will give the best results:
1. Using odin pc on the amps and preamp
and not on the dac
2. Using one shunyata interconnect in the mix rather than platinum 8 which is what I’m using to go from the dac to the preamp and from preamp to the amps. Maybe swapping on of them out for the shunyata would help?
3. Could it be that the Odin 1 being used one the oppo is still too new and still breaking in which is why I can hear some slight brightness at loud volumes and the system is letting me hear this?
4. Last but not least, I may need to reposition my speakers and try to toe them out in order to decrease some of the brightness I detect at loud volumes. As you know, electrostatics allow you to do this by playing with the toe in. 

Many different scenarios. However, the system is coming into its own specially at moderate to low volumes.


The last thing you want to give Martin Logans is too much clarity in the highs. Ear fatigue, my friend. And it's just not natural to have highs stand out too much. You are still finding the proper speaker cable, I think.
@whitecamaross 
Could it be that your Oppo-UDP205  is a little bright or forward when turned up loud ?. Do you remember what i said about my Oppo UDP203 vs JRiver Media Center PC.. (Dell Precision T-5400) ???
I brought out the momentum integrated back from the dead and used Odin pc, Odin speaker cables and oppo as a source which is also using Odín pc.
Man this sounds far better than I remember hearing it before. Gorgeous mids and smoothness. I don’t get any ear fatigue but the highs might be a tad “ disorganized” when cranked up to high levels. Could be either that the momentum Is clipping or that the oppo 205 continues to feed me highs that are a tad bright when pushed. 
greyhound, you could be right about the brightness :) 

bigddesign3,
I think you meant that one shouldn't give Martin Logans too much ENERGY in the highs, not too much CLARITY.  It is fine to prefer a more subdued tonal balance with less highs, but clarity must never be sacrificed.  Music is a type of language of sounds and words where clarity is paramount.  Also, if you look at a classical music score (printed music) there is so much information present that no hifi listener has yet heard because all systems are veiled and lacking clarity to some extent.  
bigddesign3,
Good.  Also, imagine that you have a perfect system that reproduces live unamplifiied music indistinguishable from live.  At the live volume, there are plenty of highs and every other sound attribute, and if you play your system at the same volume, both the live sound and your reproduced sound are pleasing without harshness.  But if you then crank the volume of your system higher or get too close to live sound where the volume is too loud, there will be harshness in many areas, not just the highs.  This should not be a justification to reduce the highs in a system just because you want to blast it louder than the natural live sound.  Perfect reproduction involves the usual goals of balance and information retrieval, and also the proper natural volume, not blasting.  
viber6,
I was pointing out to be careful that you don't mess with the highs so much that you get too much of a good thing.


I love to blast my music at times, but my family will only tolerate so much of the whole house in an earthquake with my electronic dance music. So I try to only do that once a week or so. I love most all types of music, and some can be turned up quite a bit for a few minutes. My Krell KSA-200S is a real gem with having the current available to set off some "holy sheet" moments at high volume. But most listening is done at respectable levels. My music listening goes all the way from the 60's to now. If it sounds good, I'm ok with the type of music it is. There is not a music type that I like more than another. I'm quite good at picking out the tracks (ahead of time) that will play on the radio, and become hits. At 62, I still get excited about new music coming out. My only regret is how much money I have spent to get to where I wanted to be with my retirement home system. It does sound exceptional though. Cheers.
bigddesign3,
OK, I understand your needs.  For casual but attentive listening to the radio off axis while I am eating, I listen at much lower than live volumes.  To get better clarity, it helps to boost the HF when they are rolled off by listening way off axis.  At low volumes, the HF boost is not irritating.  Cheers to you.
All,
i have ordered a brand new, fully balanced lampizator pacific in gold color. The unit will come with the new KR 242 tubes (Rk edition). I was told by Fred from lampizator that these aren’t your typical 242 tubes. These are tubes that the Richard Kron just manufactured for lampizator and they just started to ship these tubes as of a month ago. According to Fred, they are dynamic, more detailed and have more gain Than the 300b I had. I was told I need to wait about 3 weeks for it to be built. 
I believe this will probably be my new preamp. I would be shocked if I stay with the ref10 as my preamp after this new dac arrives. 
WC, while you wait, please try the zip cord for speaker wire.  I promise it will be a new ball game for you.
whitecamaross

how many hours are logged on the Odin PCs now?

Happy Listening!
The Golden Lampizator Pacific with XLR and Volume Control. The single best upgrade to your system.

Other than trying some amps from Dan D'ag and some others, you are hitting the top of the heap. Great choices. It may take a while to get the cables figured out? Keep it fun and all is good.
We shall see how good this dac will be. I was told that it won’t be here until April so I guess ill just play with cables in the meantime and see what seems to sound best to my ears. 
The powercords Have like 150 -200 hours playtime. 
So I’m assuming your Lampizator bit the dust? Not worth repairing? Or taken on trade? I remember you were sending it to Poland. Not an inexpensive proposition just for a check up.  I have heard it’s not a matter of if a Lampi will break but of when. Other than that they are outstanding DACs. 
Hi WC
Any further impressions on the speaker and power cables? Specifically on the four comparisons you laid out that you wanted to get to the bottom of?
Hope you are still getting some good listening in during this waiting period.
I ordered a new dac from lampizator. It will be here in 3 weeks and it will have the new Kr242 Richard kron tubes. It will also be fully balanced.

Im currently using the momentum integrated with Nordost Odin speaker cables and powercord. My dacs are the oppo 205 and the simaudio 650d. Im going to leave the block audios off to the side for the next 2 weeks along with the ref10. I want to give my ears time to get more acquainted with the momentum. Once the lampizator arrives then I’ll bring back the block audios and ref10.
I’ve playing with Odin 1 powercords and Shunyata alpha NR.
My feeling is that Shunyata adds more bottom end and the Odin more detail and holographic presentation. I would say that I prefer the alpha nr pcs in the Monos rather than Odin 1. The Odin 1 seem to do amazing things with sources and preamps  but adding the shunyata to the amplifiers seems to add the fullness which rounds out the presentation. it adds more “meat” which makes everything more enjoyable.


Has anyone tried the upper end Teo line of interconnects and speaker
cables? I went from top line Hi Dimond and it was a quite a revelation
for me, personally. Just a suggestion since this thread has also encompassed
cables.
For the time being here is another report on the same show of the Magicos A3 you said sounded like garbage from other sources. Yeah maybe not in the same league as the 50K and up speaker level you have been listening to but they shouldn’t be slammed because they are entry level for the masses to high end audio.
https://parttimeaudiophile.com/2019/03/17/florida-2019-magico-luxman-audioquest-critical-mass-system...
WC,
Adding meat and fullness takes away from clarity/sparkle. You also like clarity/sparkle, which zip cord gives you.  Maybe Mapleshade thin speaker cable betters zip cord at its own game.
@viber6  You said 
"Adding meat and fullness takes away from clarity/sparkle." You must audition some Cerious Technologies Matrix cabling. A pleasant surprise awaits.
Alright guys,
im going to be receiving my first solid state preamp next week. It will be my first attempt with solid state preamplificstion with the block audios. The preamp is the pass labs xp30 which I owned briefly with a pair of xa200.5 Monos. I look forward to hearing what will be gained or lost once I introduce this preamp in the mix. Will it be a better match/fit in my current set up than the ref10?
What do you all think?
WC,
The Pass XP15 phono stage in my system was euphonic--complete lack of sparkle.  I wouldn't be surprised if your XP30 line preamp is euphonic compared to ARC ref 10 and especially ref 6.  Even the reasonably priced Lux C900 preamp would probably be less euphonic.  And don't forget the virtues of the tone controls on the Lux.  Tone controls show much greater differences than interconnects.  But fat speaker wires drastically muffle the sound compared to zip cord.

I have been withholding further mentioning Merrill electronics until I personally heard the new Element amps, but on the Merrill Element thread, there is an enthusiastic comment by mattnshilp comparing Rowland 625 S2 to Element 116.   Rowland is tube-like and Merrill is totally transparent and neutral.  You might try the Merrill Christine preamp.  The new Merrill stuff is eagerly anticipated, and even the slightly older flagship Christine preamp probably would have good resale value.  Of course, when the Merrill Elements are all available, I will be auditioning at home and will report here.
I don't know if you heard. "Dan D’Agostino announces the New Momentum HD Preamplifier" https://parttimeaudiophile.com/2019/03/16/dan-dagostino-announces-the-new-momentum-hd-preamplifier/


I know how we are all enamored with his products, and the fact that he is still improving his products is a testament to his endless excitement with his equipment.
@viber6 euphonic = pleasing to the ear

in audio criticism the term euphonic is generally applied to components that impart a pleasant and attractive coloration - think tube preamps for example

What you describe sounds like the complete opposite of euphonic 😉

now personally i find ARC tube amps to be very euphonic, giving a pleasing and attractive sound but ultimately adding coloration that once you become aware of it is very annoying ... but that’s just my opinion
folkfreak,
Maybe "euphonic" is an inaccurate term, but I use it because most people know what it means in terms of sonic character.  That character is smoothed over HF which affects midrange and even bass instruments, making all instruments sound at best sweet, and often dull with reduction of natural harmonic overtones, compared to real life.  I am not pleased at all by this, because I want maximum clarity and information from recordings, trying to have my system sound as close as possible to the excitement of live musicians up close, the way they are usually recorded.  The problem with pursuing euphonic (veiled) sound is that some frequencies are more euphonic (veiled) than others, which create discontinuities.  That may be applicable to your perceptions about the ARC tube amps you heard.  But neutral, transparent electronics are the ideal, in part because all the frequencies are equally clear, creating less risk of discontinuities aka colorations.  Live, unamplified music is neutral, so that's what I strive for in my system.  When I achieve much of the sought accuracy, I am pleased, but that sound is not "euphonic" the way most people know it.
update:
i will be receiving a pair of speakers this Saturday morning. Surprise surprise... they retail for $10k fyi so don't think ultra expensive.