Metal or Carbon Resistors - Which is better?


A passive preamp paired with 300B amplifier and TT as main source. 

Passive preamp comes with two options,

a) Metal film resistor - 1% accuracy 0.5W type

OR

b) Carbon composition resistor - 5% accuracy 0.5W type

Which one would you choose and why? 

lalitk

@lalitk please let us know the specific use. It is to load a stepped attenuator? Khozmo attenuator? Shunt style stepped attenuator? Omron relay based Shunt type? Thanks.

Nude Vishay ZFoils are wonderfully resolving, quiet and still pleasing to the ears. They do less editorializing than the other resistors mentioned. You could place Audio Note 2W silver tants in the shunt position.  

Potentially even better is to avoid this question by using the Tortuga LDR based “The ePot.V4”system. Perhaps the best sounding attenuator/control center on the market.  I am just not exactly sure what you are up to.  

 

 

 

The review I mentioned is at:
sw1xad.co.uk

If the link doesn’t work, just google “audio note silver tantalum resistor reviews”

Another option is to use an Intact Audio autoformer.  That is the best sounding attenuator I have tried.  

Transformer/autoformer attenuators do a better job of preserving dynamics and sounding vivid than other types.  Instead of burning off the signal in a resistor, transformers reduce voltage by converting it to increased current.  Because of complexity, transformer volume controls have a limited number of secondary windings, and hence, limited number of volume steps.  Autoformers can offer more steps, and some also offer convenience of remote control and balance adjustment.  A good example, is the one made by Emia.

EMIA attenuators use the same autoformers as Intact Audio.  The EMIA products just put the autoformers in a nice looking box with remote control.  Intact Audio sells the raw autoformers for the DIY market.  Moreover, the autoformers all sound the same regardless of the number of steps.  Well, with one big exception—-there are both copper and silver models.  All of the copper models sound the same; all of the silver models sound the same.

I have the 47-step model and there is a small 1.25db difference between each step.  In my system that easily spans the range I need for my various sources.

“For some passive linestages, the resistors are almost the whole game—they have a few switches/selector, and attenuation means a stepped attenuator or relay switching of different combination of resistors.  The right choice is important.”

+1, @larryi 
Exactly. I am trying to see if I can keep the signal (from TT) with minimal coloration. This is my 2nd attempt to access and possibly keep a 300B amps in my system. First attempt was a complete disappointment disaster (please don’t ask about the amp manufacturer). The plan is to audition few well designed 300B amps before settling on the ‘one’ that highlights the true virtues of 300B valve known for! 

The passive pre under consideration is a simple circuit, zero flash, all substance. How good it sounds, only time will tell.  

Here’s what I know about passive pre design, a passive volume and balance control using a 23-step rotary attenuator. The signal path passes through only two fixed resistors at any volume setting, minimizing degradation. Gold-point, double-contact rotary switches (the kind used in industrial test gear) are used for both volume and the 3-position input selector. 
 

@grannyring  - PM sent!